Help me choose a bike after accident
03-24-24, 01:25 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
Help me choose a bike after accident
I was never a 'cyclist' but I rode a lot as a kid and used to commute to work on a MTB until about 6/7 years ago I had a bad cycling accident. It was a complete freak accident that was probably 1 in a million of it happening the way it did, but resulted in me loosing 2 teeth, fracturing both wrists and getting a lot of stitches. Needless to say that after I'd healed and tried to get back on the bike I was petrified and decided it wasn't worth it and switched to walking to work. Then a year or so ago, my cyclist boss got me into zwift and I loved it - bought a mint road bike and spent a lot of time and money changing components and getting it set up just right for me. I was riding a lot, doing massive challenges and a lot of miles, probably a bit too much for an indoor trainer so ended up packing it away but now that the weathers getting a bit better here in England I have the urge to ride outside again. I now live in a city so I drove out to the village I grew up in and put some MTB pedals on my road bike because I've never ridden a road bike or been clipped in in real life before. I wanted to ride where there were few cars and where I was familiar so this seemed like a good place to start. At first the bike felt super twitchy and unsteady but eventually got the hang of riding in a straight line! The tires don't fill me with confidence at all. The roads, being in a village/back roads did have small amounts of gravel in places, uneven areas, little bit of mud and manure, and every time I approached something of this nature I was slowing way down. Corners were the worst though (since thats how my accident happened) and when there was a sharp turn I'm embarrassed to say that I would come to a complete stop and rotate the bike haha. I've seen people lean these things and ride on gravel etc so I know they have more grip than it looks but I just cant trust them. On downhills as well I was afraid of picking up too much speed and loosing control. There is this really steep hill that I found myself at the top of and ended up doing a 3 mile diversion instead of going down it. I've been out twice now so I know its not a lot but I cant help thinking I might be better off with a MTB. Its what I've always ridden in real life so I feel like I'd be more comfortable with the handling and the tyres having more tread and width might instill a bit more faith that they wont slip out underneath me. Plus I think I'd be more inclined to ride cycling/walking trails of mixed terrain where there aren't any cars to worry about, but still will be on the road at times. Do you think a mountain bike would be a good idea given my circumstances or should I perceiver with the road bike?
Last edited by Mother_of_birds; 03-24-24 at 01:28 AM.
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03-24-24, 01:50 AM
#3
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Thread Starter
I have considered a gravel bike but theres not much available used around my area and I dont want to spend a huge amount since there's a chance I'll ride it and not feel any safer than my road bike and end up selling it again. Also, from looking at gravel bikes they don't seem that much difference from a road bike just with slightly wider tyres with more tread? Or am I missing something?
03-24-24, 02:19 AM
#4
Senior Member
First, we don't know if this is a road racing bike (more twitchy geometry if Criterium, designed for city races with tight turns), or a road touring bike with longer wheelbase and more stable steering geometry. A side pic of the bike from the chain side would help.
If touring frame geometry, not much different from mountain, for riding on roads, and there should be clearance to put on wider tires. If a racing frame, that can be more difficult as the rear tire can be very close to the front derailleur and seatpost.
The next question is how well the frame fits you in terms of size, and your desired riding position in terms of upright versus lower on the handlebars for more speed and power.
Gearing is a big question, if you will be climbing steep hills. Over time I've had to put lower gears on my bikes (a triple crank on my road race bike 20 years ago, and a wide-range double crank on my folding bike). Mountain bikes typically have that range, some road bikes yes and some no, 20" wheel folding bikes typically no (but I wanted a folder and sufficient gearing so I modified it accordingly). I don't need to fold my bike often for transport, but when I do, it's great.
If touring frame geometry, not much different from mountain, for riding on roads, and there should be clearance to put on wider tires. If a racing frame, that can be more difficult as the rear tire can be very close to the front derailleur and seatpost.
The next question is how well the frame fits you in terms of size, and your desired riding position in terms of upright versus lower on the handlebars for more speed and power.
Gearing is a big question, if you will be climbing steep hills. Over time I've had to put lower gears on my bikes (a triple crank on my road race bike 20 years ago, and a wide-range double crank on my folding bike). Mountain bikes typically have that range, some road bikes yes and some no, 20" wheel folding bikes typically no (but I wanted a folder and sufficient gearing so I modified it accordingly). I don't need to fold my bike often for transport, but when I do, it's great.
03-24-24, 02:58 AM
#5
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Thread Starter
First, we don't know if this is a road racing bike (more twitchy geometry if Criterium, designed for city races with tight turns), or a road touring bike with longer wheelbase and more stable steering geometry. A side pic of the bike from the chain side would help.
If touring frame geometry, not much different from mountain, for riding on roads, and there should be clearance to put on wider tires. If a racing frame, that can be more difficult as the rear tire can be very close to the front derailleur and seatpost.
The next question is how well the frame fits you in terms of size, and your desired riding position in terms of upright versus lower on the handlebars for more speed and power.
Gearing is a big question, if you will be climbing steep hills. Over time I've had to put lower gears on my bikes (a triple crank on my road race bike 20 years ago, and a wide-range double crank on my folding bike). Mountain bikes typically have that range, some road bikes yes and some no, 20" wheel folding bikes typically no (but I wanted a folder and sufficient gearing so I modified it accordingly). I don't need to fold my bike often for transport, but when I do, it's great.
If touring frame geometry, not much different from mountain, for riding on roads, and there should be clearance to put on wider tires. If a racing frame, that can be more difficult as the rear tire can be very close to the front derailleur and seatpost.
The next question is how well the frame fits you in terms of size, and your desired riding position in terms of upright versus lower on the handlebars for more speed and power.
Gearing is a big question, if you will be climbing steep hills. Over time I've had to put lower gears on my bikes (a triple crank on my road race bike 20 years ago, and a wide-range double crank on my folding bike). Mountain bikes typically have that range, some road bikes yes and some no, 20" wheel folding bikes typically no (but I wanted a folder and sufficient gearing so I modified it accordingly). I don't need to fold my bike often for transport, but when I do, it's great.
03-24-24, 06:53 AM
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03-24-24, 07:41 AM
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I'll just leave this here.
03-24-24, 09:17 AM
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Just because you get a road bike doesn't mean you have to use clipless pedals. You can still use flat pedals that don't require cleats.
If you aren't confident about riding, you don't need the additional worry they bring to you building your confidence of the basic things you need to master for riding a bicycle.
I'd question why you want a road bike at this time. Road bikes are made for the road. But their real intention is riding on the open road for long distances. If you are just going to be in urban traffic with lots of stop and go, they aren't the best of choice for a casual rider.
A very basic mountain bike will be a better choice. Even better will be a cruiser or cargo bike with a very slack seat tube that allows you to put both feet on the ground while still seated. Once you work out all the kinks and issues you have with those, then you can get other bikes to suit the new purposes you might desire for a bike.
And as shown by another trikes are an option too. Doesn't have to be recumbent.
Welcome to BF.
If you aren't confident about riding, you don't need the additional worry they bring to you building your confidence of the basic things you need to master for riding a bicycle.
I'd question why you want a road bike at this time. Road bikes are made for the road. But their real intention is riding on the open road for long distances. If you are just going to be in urban traffic with lots of stop and go, they aren't the best of choice for a casual rider.
A very basic mountain bike will be a better choice. Even better will be a cruiser or cargo bike with a very slack seat tube that allows you to put both feet on the ground while still seated. Once you work out all the kinks and issues you have with those, then you can get other bikes to suit the new purposes you might desire for a bike.
And as shown by another trikes are an option too. Doesn't have to be recumbent.
Welcome to BF.
03-24-24, 09:28 AM
#9
Newbie
Thread Starter
Just because you get a road bike doesn't mean you have to use clipless pedals. You can still use flat pedals that don't require cleats.
If you aren't confident about riding, you don't need the additional worry they bring to you building your confidence of the basic things you need to master for riding a bicycle.
I'd question why you want a road bike at this time. Road bikes are made for the road. But their real intention is riding on the open road for long distances. If you are just going to be in urban traffic with lots of stop and go, they aren't the best of choice for a casual rider.
A very basic mountain bike will be a better choice. Even better will be a cruiser or cargo bike with a very slack seat tube that allows you to put both feet on the ground while still seated. Once you work out all the kinks and issues you have with those, then you can get other bikes to suit the new purposes you might desire for a bike.
And as shown by another trikes are an option too. Doesn't have to be recumbent.
Welcome to BF.
If you aren't confident about riding, you don't need the additional worry they bring to you building your confidence of the basic things you need to master for riding a bicycle.
I'd question why you want a road bike at this time. Road bikes are made for the road. But their real intention is riding on the open road for long distances. If you are just going to be in urban traffic with lots of stop and go, they aren't the best of choice for a casual rider.
A very basic mountain bike will be a better choice. Even better will be a cruiser or cargo bike with a very slack seat tube that allows you to put both feet on the ground while still seated. Once you work out all the kinks and issues you have with those, then you can get other bikes to suit the new purposes you might desire for a bike.
And as shown by another trikes are an option too. Doesn't have to be recumbent.
Welcome to BF.
03-24-24, 11:23 AM
#10
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First off, I completely understand the apprehension you have for riding outside. Perfectly normal after a traumatic event. And really, most of us make some compromises in how we ride to stay safer. And, much of the time this is based on feel not hard facts about what is truly safer or not. You're just on the sensitive end of the scale. Likely you'll regain more confidence with more outdoor riding.
Having said that, and given your accident apparently was do to sliding in a turn, perhaps on sand or gravel. I do think you really need wider tires. And aside from wider, get the grippiest tires you can find in the largest width you can fit on the bike you have.
Obviously a second bike, either MTB or gravel would be best, but it's sounds like that's not an easy option. Though if storage space is the issue, and not money so much, maybe replace the bike you have with a gravel bike that you can use both indoors and outdoors. You should be able to set it up just like the bike you have.
Welcome back to riding in the wild. I wish you many happy miles!
Having said that, and given your accident apparently was do to sliding in a turn, perhaps on sand or gravel. I do think you really need wider tires. And aside from wider, get the grippiest tires you can find in the largest width you can fit on the bike you have.
Obviously a second bike, either MTB or gravel would be best, but it's sounds like that's not an easy option. Though if storage space is the issue, and not money so much, maybe replace the bike you have with a gravel bike that you can use both indoors and outdoors. You should be able to set it up just like the bike you have.
Welcome back to riding in the wild. I wish you many happy miles!
03-24-24, 11:45 AM
#11
Newbie
Thread Starter
First off, I completely understand the apprehension you have for riding outside. Perfectly normal after a traumatic event. And really, most of us make some compromises in how we ride to stay safer. And, much of the time this is based on feel not hard facts about what is truly safer or not. You're just on the sensitive end of the scale. Likely you'll regain more confidence with more outdoor riding.
Having said that, and given your accident apparently was do to sliding in a turn, perhaps on sand or gravel. I do think you really need wider tires. And aside from wider, get the grippiest tires you can find in the largest width you can fit on the bike you have.
Obviously a second bike, either MTB or gravel would be best, but it's sounds like that's not an easy option. Though if storage space is the issue, and not money so much, maybe replace the bike you have with a gravel bike that you can use both indoors and outdoors. You should be able to set it up just like the bike you have.
Welcome back to riding in the wild. I wish you many happy miles!
Having said that, and given your accident apparently was do to sliding in a turn, perhaps on sand or gravel. I do think you really need wider tires. And aside from wider, get the grippiest tires you can find in the largest width you can fit on the bike you have.
Obviously a second bike, either MTB or gravel would be best, but it's sounds like that's not an easy option. Though if storage space is the issue, and not money so much, maybe replace the bike you have with a gravel bike that you can use both indoors and outdoors. You should be able to set it up just like the bike you have.
Welcome back to riding in the wild. I wish you many happy miles!
I've been watching loads of YouTube videos about gravel and MTB comparisons. It's made more difficult as I don't know exactly the terrain I'll be riding. Definitely not hard-core MTB trails and I don't like the thought of riding in traffic either. I'm sure a gravel bike would be the more suitable/efficient option but theres a couple of things making me vere towards a MTB. To me, gravel bikes look way closer to a road bike than a MTB. I'm not sure the marginally wider tyres and bit of tread will help me enough psychologically. I know you can get flat bar gravel bikes but all the used ones I've seen have drops and I feel like I'd feel safer on flat bars having grown up riding them. And having hunted second hand sites for about a week, there are very few used gravel bikes around my way and they're all pricey. Whereas there's quite a lot of MTBs so more likely to find one my size and budget.
Sorry to ramble! XD
03-24-24, 12:50 PM
#12
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Thank you and yes it was going around a corner but it was ice that took the bike out. It didn't even look frosty on the morning it happened but as I went around the bend the bike just went and I had so much forward momentum I landed on my face and skidded about 6 meters. Just glad I've always been a health and safety nut so was wearing a helmet or I dread to think how much worse it would've been!
I've been watching loads of YouTube videos about gravel and MTB comparisons. It's made more difficult as I don't know exactly the terrain I'll be riding. Definitely not hard-core MTB trails and I don't like the thought of riding in traffic either. I'm sure a gravel bike would be the more suitable/efficient option but theres a couple of things making me vere towards a MTB. To me, gravel bikes look way closer to a road bike than a MTB. I'm not sure the marginally wider tyres and bit of tread will help me enough psychologically. I know you can get flat bar gravel bikes but all the used ones I've seen have drops and I feel like I'd feel safer on flat bars having grown up riding them. And having hunted second hand sites for about a week, there are very few used gravel bikes around my way and they're all pricey. Whereas there's quite a lot of MTBs so more likely to find one my size and budget.
Sorry to ramble! XD
I've been watching loads of YouTube videos about gravel and MTB comparisons. It's made more difficult as I don't know exactly the terrain I'll be riding. Definitely not hard-core MTB trails and I don't like the thought of riding in traffic either. I'm sure a gravel bike would be the more suitable/efficient option but theres a couple of things making me vere towards a MTB. To me, gravel bikes look way closer to a road bike than a MTB. I'm not sure the marginally wider tyres and bit of tread will help me enough psychologically. I know you can get flat bar gravel bikes but all the used ones I've seen have drops and I feel like I'd feel safer on flat bars having grown up riding them. And having hunted second hand sites for about a week, there are very few used gravel bikes around my way and they're all pricey. Whereas there's quite a lot of MTBs so more likely to find one my size and budget.
Sorry to ramble! XD
There are quite a few storage options for bikes. So, you might want to look for those and see what might allow you to have two bikes. I use vertical storage where the bikes hang from their front wheel. The net effect, is a 2-3 bikes don't take up much more floor space than a single bike would leaning against a wall. This is if the system allows the bikes to be angled towards the wall. Of course, you obviously use up wall space. There are various versions of this from simply hooks to systems with a tray that holds the front wheel.
03-24-24, 01:27 PM
#13
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Thread Starter
No rambling. That all makes perfect sense. Seems like what you might want is a hybrid bike. I'm not that experienced with all the terminology, but I think these are basically rigid mountains bikes (no suspension, front or back). So, you get wide tires without the bulk of the suspension and a wide range of gearing. These are not exotic and I think pretty common. Fairly common as a sort of "dad" bike for general riding with the family. But I understand, that just having two bikes is it's own issue for you.
There are quite a few storage options for bikes. So, you might want to look for those and see what might allow you to have two bikes. I use vertical storage where the bikes hang from their front wheel. The net effect, is a 2-3 bikes don't take up much more floor space than a single bike would leaning against a wall. This is if the system allows the bikes to be angled towards the wall. Of course, you obviously use up wall space. There are various versions of this from simply hooks to systems with a tray that holds the front wheel.
There are quite a few storage options for bikes. So, you might want to look for those and see what might allow you to have two bikes. I use vertical storage where the bikes hang from their front wheel. The net effect, is a 2-3 bikes don't take up much more floor space than a single bike would leaning against a wall. This is if the system allows the bikes to be angled towards the wall. Of course, you obviously use up wall space. There are various versions of this from simply hooks to systems with a tray that holds the front wheel.
Yes I did see some wall storage ones that look quite space efficient. I think if I did get a second bike then I could partially dismantled my road bike and keep it under the bed or something out the way. I'd only really be keeping it for 'just in case' I get back on the trainer, or gain enough confidence to try it on the road again, and because I'm so attached to it because of the time I've put into it. So if I did that then I'd only really need to have somewhere to put the second bike that I'd be riding.
03-24-24, 01:30 PM
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I would definitely keep the bike you have, whether you choose another bike or not. You can ride it more times outdoors to see if you can get used to it. The choice to go to a lower traffic area is probably a good one.
You can also use the road bike on your indoor trainer when the weather is bad or when there is ice, even if you don’t ride it much outdoors.
I watched a cyclist get hit one day, nearly twenty years ago. Right hook as the cyclist crossed a business driveway. It scared me to death, and I didn’t ride anything but an indoor bike at the gym until last January when I started riding my kid’s hybrid. And then I only rode on multi-use paths for the first six months.
Last summer, my brother took me on a road bike ride, and it was so much easier to ride a distance and with some speed, I came home and bought one. I now am used to riding roads so much, I did a 65 mile ride yesterday, and only about a mile or so was on a MUP.
It can take time to develop handling skill and traffic skill. There’s nothing wrong with slowing down or stopping when your confidence/skill isn’t up to the riding situation you have come upon. Much better than having another wreck.
You can also use the road bike on your indoor trainer when the weather is bad or when there is ice, even if you don’t ride it much outdoors.
I watched a cyclist get hit one day, nearly twenty years ago. Right hook as the cyclist crossed a business driveway. It scared me to death, and I didn’t ride anything but an indoor bike at the gym until last January when I started riding my kid’s hybrid. And then I only rode on multi-use paths for the first six months.
Last summer, my brother took me on a road bike ride, and it was so much easier to ride a distance and with some speed, I came home and bought one. I now am used to riding roads so much, I did a 65 mile ride yesterday, and only about a mile or so was on a MUP.
It can take time to develop handling skill and traffic skill. There’s nothing wrong with slowing down or stopping when your confidence/skill isn’t up to the riding situation you have come upon. Much better than having another wreck.
03-24-24, 02:19 PM
#15
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Thread Starter
I would definitely keep the bike you have, whether you choose another bike or not. You can ride it more times outdoors to see if you can get used to it. The choice to go to a lower traffic area is probably a good one.
You can also use the road bike on your indoor trainer when the weather is bad or when there is ice, even if you don’t ride it much outdoors.
I watched a cyclist get hit one day, nearly twenty years ago. Right hook as the cyclist crossed a business driveway. It scared me to death, and I didn’t ride anything but an indoor bike at the gym until last January when I started riding my kid’s hybrid. And then I only rode on multi-use paths for the first six months.
Last summer, my brother took me on a road bike ride, and it was so much easier to ride a distance and with some speed, I came home and bought one. I now am used to riding roads so much, I did a 65 mile ride yesterday, and only about a mile or so was on a MUP.
It can take time to develop handling skill and traffic skill. There’s nothing wrong with slowing down or stopping when your confidence/skill isn’t up to the riding situation you have come upon. Much better than having another wreck.
You can also use the road bike on your indoor trainer when the weather is bad or when there is ice, even if you don’t ride it much outdoors.
I watched a cyclist get hit one day, nearly twenty years ago. Right hook as the cyclist crossed a business driveway. It scared me to death, and I didn’t ride anything but an indoor bike at the gym until last January when I started riding my kid’s hybrid. And then I only rode on multi-use paths for the first six months.
Last summer, my brother took me on a road bike ride, and it was so much easier to ride a distance and with some speed, I came home and bought one. I now am used to riding roads so much, I did a 65 mile ride yesterday, and only about a mile or so was on a MUP.
It can take time to develop handling skill and traffic skill. There’s nothing wrong with slowing down or stopping when your confidence/skill isn’t up to the riding situation you have come upon. Much better than having another wreck.
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03-24-24, 09:49 PM
#16
Senior Member
Assuming same bike as the OP:
Yep, typical road race geometry, sporty, but might be difficult to fit larger tires. Bike shop in person could tell you, key areas to look are rear tire at front derailleur and seat tube, between seatstays and chainstays, and under brakes. Front tire would be only about the front brake and fork crown underside. I was able to go 700c x 28 on a similar geometry bike, but it was close, I had to just dust with a file a projection on the front derailleur closest to the rear tire. Bigger tires improved ride and puncture resistance a lot.
You're right about a recumbent, even two wheels, being very difficult to bring in and out of a home, and impossible on stairs. I have a long wheelbase recumbent with underseat steering, haven't used since the late '90s. In my current location, it would be terrible on hills, cannot climb while standing. However, while very comfortable, the impetus of LWB 'bent design was safety; Sitting upright at chair height with feet first, and front tire well in front of feet, if you hit anything, the front tire and fork both distort and take a lot of the energy, and next to hit would be the soles of your shoes, better than going over the bars on a conventional bike. Also, a side fall is shorter distance, and the underseat handlbars extend out and would take a lot of the hit, as well as wide seat.
Yep, typical road race geometry, sporty, but might be difficult to fit larger tires. Bike shop in person could tell you, key areas to look are rear tire at front derailleur and seat tube, between seatstays and chainstays, and under brakes. Front tire would be only about the front brake and fork crown underside. I was able to go 700c x 28 on a similar geometry bike, but it was close, I had to just dust with a file a projection on the front derailleur closest to the rear tire. Bigger tires improved ride and puncture resistance a lot.
You're right about a recumbent, even two wheels, being very difficult to bring in and out of a home, and impossible on stairs. I have a long wheelbase recumbent with underseat steering, haven't used since the late '90s. In my current location, it would be terrible on hills, cannot climb while standing. However, while very comfortable, the impetus of LWB 'bent design was safety; Sitting upright at chair height with feet first, and front tire well in front of feet, if you hit anything, the front tire and fork both distort and take a lot of the energy, and next to hit would be the soles of your shoes, better than going over the bars on a conventional bike. Also, a side fall is shorter distance, and the underseat handlbars extend out and would take a lot of the hit, as well as wide seat.
03-24-24, 11:12 PM
#17
Newbie
Thread Starter
Assuming same bike as the OP:
Yep, typical road race geometry, sporty, but might be difficult to fit larger tires. Bike shop in person could tell you, key areas to look are rear tire at front derailleur and seat tube, between seatstays and chainstays, and under brakes. Front tire would be only about the front brake and fork crown underside. I was able to go 700c x 28 on a similar geometry bike, but it was close, I had to just dust with a file a projection on the front derailleur closest to the rear tire. Bigger tires improved ride and puncture resistance a lot.
You're right about a recumbent, even two wheels, being very difficult to bring in and out of a home, and impossible on stairs. I have a long wheelbase recumbent with underseat steering, haven't used since the late '90s. In my current location, it would be terrible on hills, cannot climb while standing. However, while very comfortable, the impetus of LWB 'bent design was safety; Sitting upright at chair height with feet first, and front tire well in front of feet, if you hit anything, the front tire and fork both distort and take a lot of the energy, and next to hit would be the soles of your shoes, better than going over the bars on a conventional bike. Also, a side fall is shorter distance, and the underseat handlbars extend out and would take a lot of the hit, as well as wide seat.
Yep, typical road race geometry, sporty, but might be difficult to fit larger tires. Bike shop in person could tell you, key areas to look are rear tire at front derailleur and seat tube, between seatstays and chainstays, and under brakes. Front tire would be only about the front brake and fork crown underside. I was able to go 700c x 28 on a similar geometry bike, but it was close, I had to just dust with a file a projection on the front derailleur closest to the rear tire. Bigger tires improved ride and puncture resistance a lot.
You're right about a recumbent, even two wheels, being very difficult to bring in and out of a home, and impossible on stairs. I have a long wheelbase recumbent with underseat steering, haven't used since the late '90s. In my current location, it would be terrible on hills, cannot climb while standing. However, while very comfortable, the impetus of LWB 'bent design was safety; Sitting upright at chair height with feet first, and front tire well in front of feet, if you hit anything, the front tire and fork both distort and take a lot of the energy, and next to hit would be the soles of your shoes, better than going over the bars on a conventional bike. Also, a side fall is shorter distance, and the underseat handlbars extend out and would take a lot of the hit, as well as wide seat.
03-24-24, 11:42 PM
#18
Senior Member
My bike isn't far off that, I thing that might be a different year though. I couldnt upload a photo when someone requested it because at the time I hadn't posted enough but now I have so here it is. And also, the tyres are 28s, I really don't think there is enough clearance for anything bigger but I have considered getting tread or checking if I can go wider but I'm not sure that minimal amount would be enough to help me mentally feel safer.
If you did buy a different bike, you might want to get something that expands your capability, if you wanted, like for dirt riding as well. Anything that fits you, has wide gearing range, and can fit a wide range of tires, would be very versatile. Or a folder; A Brompton doesn't take up much space, and it can increase your riding frequency if not bike commuting, and most especially on travel. I've gone permanently folder, but not as small as a Brompton yet.
03-25-24, 12:27 AM
#19
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28 is not bad! 23 to 28 made a big difference on my road bike. If you are staying on pavement and not dirt, not sure wider would get you more traction. Remember, the contact patch size under the same pressure will be the same, though different shape, though a lot wider and you could run lower pressure to get a larger contact patch size and better ride, the latter is the biggest benefit of wider (and deeper) section tires. But the above photo looks like 28 is about the limit, looking at front derailleur clearance.
If you did buy a different bike, you might want to get something that expands your capability, if you wanted, like for dirt riding as well. Anything that fits you, has wide gearing range, and can fit a wide range of tires, would be very versatile. Or a folder; A Brompton doesn't take up much space, and it can increase your riding frequency if not bike commuting, and most especially on travel. I've gone permanently folder, but not as small as a Brompton yet.
If you did buy a different bike, you might want to get something that expands your capability, if you wanted, like for dirt riding as well. Anything that fits you, has wide gearing range, and can fit a wide range of tires, would be very versatile. Or a folder; A Brompton doesn't take up much space, and it can increase your riding frequency if not bike commuting, and most especially on travel. I've gone permanently folder, but not as small as a Brompton yet.
03-25-24, 02:23 AM
#20
Senior Member
I think the 28s feel so unbelievably narrow to me because I've only ever ridden MTBs on the road before. 23s sound insane! The rides I did were on tarmac road but since they were out in the countryside there was areas where gravel, dust, manure etc. had made its way onto the road so not a perfect surface but at least I didn't have to worry about cars or people seeing me crawl around corners lol. I do like the idea of a bike I can take anywhere.. at the moment I'm leaning more towards a mountain bike for reasons I've mentioned in previous posts, maybe one that has lock out forks would be good for when I am on the road.
23 is skinny, that's tour de france race bikes or even smaller. I suppose decent cushion starts at 32, quite common on touring bikes, but you won't fit that on your road bike, unfortunately.
Tire traction on pavement is complex, non-linear, and sometimes counterintuitive.
Last edited by Duragrouch; 03-25-24 at 02:27 AM.
03-25-24, 03:32 AM
#21
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A hardtail or fully rigid mountain bike with high quality gravel tyres (40-45 mm) sounds like your best bet. You want a bike with either 650B or 700C wheels for the best selection of modern tyres. Road grip is all about tyre choice.
03-25-24, 04:44 AM
#22
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03-25-24, 05:08 AM
#23
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Buy the bike you think would suit you best. If, a while down the road, you find you want something different, you have that option.
Most people advise against cheap mountain bikes because the forks tend to be heavy and of low quality,: poorly damped and bouncy, hard or impossible to adjust. Find a bike with a decent fork ... and the other common complaint is the weight of the fork----but that only matters to the racer types. If you are riding for pleasure, not pace, then the added weight of the fork is offset by the increased comfort.
In any case, if you enjoy riding the bike, nothing else matters.
If I were you I also might look for roads between towns or whatever ... throw the bike in or on the car and drive to places to ride. Asa long-time urban commuter, I realize that urban riding is not as safe (though of course, you can hit ice anywhere. Unless you have studded tires, ice can always be a hazard. But, as you said, one-in-a-million incident.)
One other point---shopping used online is an exercise in patience and luck. Eventually what you need might turn up, Waiting is the hardest part.
Meanwhile, keep riding. Ride as slowly as you like. Get off to turn. Avoid hills. Stop whenever you like. Ride in whatever way brings you the most pleasure. Yo have the fitness, apparently, which is the hardest part ... so now just get more experience. Even if you don't try, eventually you will gain confidence and learn what yo can do on a bike, and will enjoy even more.
Most people advise against cheap mountain bikes because the forks tend to be heavy and of low quality,: poorly damped and bouncy, hard or impossible to adjust. Find a bike with a decent fork ... and the other common complaint is the weight of the fork----but that only matters to the racer types. If you are riding for pleasure, not pace, then the added weight of the fork is offset by the increased comfort.
In any case, if you enjoy riding the bike, nothing else matters.
If I were you I also might look for roads between towns or whatever ... throw the bike in or on the car and drive to places to ride. Asa long-time urban commuter, I realize that urban riding is not as safe (though of course, you can hit ice anywhere. Unless you have studded tires, ice can always be a hazard. But, as you said, one-in-a-million incident.)
One other point---shopping used online is an exercise in patience and luck. Eventually what you need might turn up, Waiting is the hardest part.
Meanwhile, keep riding. Ride as slowly as you like. Get off to turn. Avoid hills. Stop whenever you like. Ride in whatever way brings you the most pleasure. Yo have the fitness, apparently, which is the hardest part ... so now just get more experience. Even if you don't try, eventually you will gain confidence and learn what yo can do on a bike, and will enjoy even more.
03-25-24, 01:54 PM
#24
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I think you should get a gravel bike; it's the perfect compromise. It'll have some of the speed of a road bike and aerodynamic efficiency, but will include tires with more aggressive tread than a road bike's tires.
When they're moving, they look almost the same as a road bike, but when stopped and you take a closer look at the tread, you'll see they are good for mild offroad like gravel and dirt roads.
Start checking out some of these videos on the subject from your fellow countrymen:
https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...cn+gravel+bike
It's worth noting that there are a range of gravel bikes too. Some are just like mountain bikes, but with drop bars. Others are just like road bikes, but with ever so slightly more aggressive tires.
From your description, something with 45 mm wide tires would probably be comfortable for you.
I don't think you should be avoiding downhills or stopping and manually turning the bike on turns, it's enough to just take it easy as you start out. When navigating potentially slippery corners try to use almost no front brake and be gentle with the rear.
When they're moving, they look almost the same as a road bike, but when stopped and you take a closer look at the tread, you'll see they are good for mild offroad like gravel and dirt roads.
Start checking out some of these videos on the subject from your fellow countrymen:
https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...cn+gravel+bike
It's worth noting that there are a range of gravel bikes too. Some are just like mountain bikes, but with drop bars. Others are just like road bikes, but with ever so slightly more aggressive tires.
From your description, something with 45 mm wide tires would probably be comfortable for you.
I don't think you should be avoiding downhills or stopping and manually turning the bike on turns, it's enough to just take it easy as you start out. When navigating potentially slippery corners try to use almost no front brake and be gentle with the rear.
03-26-24, 12:11 AM
#25
Newbie
Thread Starter
I think I may have found something. A Trek Marlin 6. Its an XS frame which is perfect for me and hard to come by second hand apparently. I guess since the typical mountain bike owner is a taller bloke, 80% of bikes for sale are large or XL. It looks in good condition from pics and it's in my budget. 27.5x2.2" tyres, 2x8 speed, hydraulic disk brakes and front suspension with lock out. It might be overkill for what I'm planning to do with it but hopefully it will help me trust the bike and give me a bit more confidence.
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