Front Derailleur Esoteric Quest
#27
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#28
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I have 2 bikes that came with BL. One has the black version. Not sure if there is any difference other than cosmetic.
#29
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#30
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I'd be tempted to shorten the cage on that 105 FD. Looks like you don't have to make it much smaller.
You already have a 'Z' bend end plate-it's the one you'll cut off on the long cage. That should come very close to accommodating the height/width difference between the shortened outside and inside cage plates.
I'd wrap that piece around the outside of the shortened cage using the existing inside cage bolt and something small and elegant on the outside with a button head or recessed head 3mm bolt.
If you have to do some bending or carving of that piece with a Dremel, paint it black or use a silver paint marker.
You don't need much 'push' to get over chain rings with that small a tooth difference.
You already have a 'Z' bend end plate-it's the one you'll cut off on the long cage. That should come very close to accommodating the height/width difference between the shortened outside and inside cage plates.
I'd wrap that piece around the outside of the shortened cage using the existing inside cage bolt and something small and elegant on the outside with a button head or recessed head 3mm bolt.
If you have to do some bending or carving of that piece with a Dremel, paint it black or use a silver paint marker.
You don't need much 'push' to get over chain rings with that small a tooth difference.
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#31
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I'd be tempted to shorten the cage on that 105 FD. Looks like you don't have to make it much smaller.
You already have a 'Z' bend end plate-it's the one you'll cut off on the long cage. That should come very close to accommodating the height/width difference between the shortened outside and inside cage plates.
I'd wrap that piece around the outside of the shortened cage using the existing inside cage bolt and something small and elegant on the outside with a button head or recessed head 3mm bolt.
If you have to do some bending or carving of that piece with a Dremel, paint it black or use a silver paint marker.
You don't need much 'push' to get over chain rings with that small a tooth difference.
You already have a 'Z' bend end plate-it's the one you'll cut off on the long cage. That should come very close to accommodating the height/width difference between the shortened outside and inside cage plates.
I'd wrap that piece around the outside of the shortened cage using the existing inside cage bolt and something small and elegant on the outside with a button head or recessed head 3mm bolt.
If you have to do some bending or carving of that piece with a Dremel, paint it black or use a silver paint marker.
You don't need much 'push' to get over chain rings with that small a tooth difference.
This reaffirms what I've known for many years. The C&V community is great. I appreciate all the ideas and offers. I really didn't come here fishing for FDs, really just wanted to pick folks' brains, and I have gotten all I hoped for and more. If I can't source a suitable NOS Shimano MTB FD at a reasonable price, I will post in the ISO/WTB thread.
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#32
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edit: come to think of it, any of alivio/stx/stxrc meant for 42t down to 22t probably won't do it, either. again, the inner cage plate
Last edited by thook; 01-23-21 at 09:43 AM.
#33
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I'm with rccardr , shorten the existing FD. Another possibility would be to cut both ends of the cage off and use a screw or a screw and a bushing to act as the new bottom stop. Some of the older C&V FD were made this way. Use Loctite to secure the threads. If longer space is needed on the inside cage fill the elongated cutout with epoxy first. Let cure, sand and shape.
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#34
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I'm with rccardr , shorten the existing FD. Another possibility would be to cut both ends of the cage off and use a screw or a screw and a bushing to act as the new bottom stop. Some of the older C&V FD were made this way. Use Loctite to secure the threads. If longer space is needed on the inside cage fill the elongated cutout with epoxy first. Let cure, sand and shape.
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Okay, I rooted through here:
And came up with this SunTour ARX as perhaps the best candidate:
Low enough?
And came up with this SunTour ARX as perhaps the best candidate:
Low enough?
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#39
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#41
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I think by the time I figured out what gear I’m in, I’d be done with the ride... I can’t resist: why? Because it was there?
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#42
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Expanded explanation: Well, when you have a Raleigh Super Course frame that has a "too far gone to keep" original finish, and you're lacking a 3-speed, but 3 speeds aren't especially practical for much besides rail-trail rides, you get to thinking of what's possible. I was inspired by others' conversions of lighter weight frames to 3-speeds, and Sheldon Brown's 63 speed flight of fancy. Since cassettes evolved beyond the 7 speeds he had available, I figured, "why not"?". I have no doubt that if he hadn't passed so prematurely, he'd have been several years ahead of me in cobbling something with as many (or more) speeds together. It's admittedly overkill, but it has been a fun exercise and I've learned a thing or two about technologies (new-ish and older), and gearing math along the way.
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John, what’s the spacing on the rear triangle to cram all of that stuff in there?
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Last edited by USAZorro; 01-24-21 at 11:29 AM.
#45
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Or, modify that one. My thought - drill for a #2 or #4 screw though the outside plate, run a nice neat SS pan head from the outside, through the outer plate, through a bushing made from aluminum or steel tubing, though a washer, through the cutout on the inner cage plate, through another washer and a lock washer and nut or just a red locktite'd nut. Cut off the bottom of the cage. Could look like it was made that way.
Ben, the guy who enjoys making bikes different. (I have three I could show you for inspiration.)
Ben, the guy who enjoys making bikes different. (I have three I could show you for inspiration.)
That's the solution I took on a Shimano Titlist on a Schwinn Sports Tourer to run 46/30 rings years ago. My sawing skills weren't the best, so once I freed the lower cage, I just got my big-assed bolt cutter blade on it and snip. Then I drilled it and reinstalled the bolt and bushing in the new holes. As I recall it worked well, although I sliced my leg open on the sharp edge since I never bothered to clean it up.
#46
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I can confirm the ARX will shift a triple. Don't forget about your above the BB cable.
Here's mine with a 45t big ring.
Here's mine with a 45t big ring.
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#47
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#49
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#50
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If you haven't found a solution I might know on the Tiagra in a few days, I've got a 39/24 crank arriving tomorrow and a braze on tiagra der and adapter arriving sometime this week. I would have thought the mtb fronts I have would sit low enough for the 39 but they don't. I plan to change the 39 to a 42 but that'll be a while till the bike is fully sorted.