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New sealed BB or rebuild old one?

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Old 07-16-18, 09:18 PM
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New sealed BB or rebuild old one?

Hi, I’m tinkering with building a gravel bike out of an old Miyata 610 with a 90s era 105 group. The bottom bracket doesn’t fit the frame but the 105 cranks are square taper, as is the original BB.

Should I buy a modem BB or just repack the original unsealed BB?
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Old 07-16-18, 09:42 PM
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The bottom bracket doesnt fit the frame meaning the cups are too small or too big?
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Old 07-16-18, 10:33 PM
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Why don't you use the current BB and test fit the 105 cranks for chain line/chain stay clearance. Then with a better understanding at to what BB spindle length works and what the current b is decide whether you rebuild the OEM or not. Andy
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Old 07-17-18, 04:14 AM
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Originally Posted by malcala622
The bottom bracket doesnt fit the frame meaning the cups are too small or too big?
Cups are too big.
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Old 07-17-18, 05:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Jay.Money
Cups are too big.
Italian threaded bottom bracket?
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Old 07-17-18, 05:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Jay.Money


Cups are too big.
Careful there, you're gonna get this thread locked.
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Old 07-17-18, 05:39 AM
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Originally Posted by HillRider
Italian threaded bottom bracket?
ummmm....

I'm new at this. 😁

Is threaded. Too big in circumference for sure. Didn’t measure width.
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Old 07-17-18, 05:39 AM
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If you BB does not fit the frame what would be the point to repacking it?
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Old 07-17-18, 05:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Colnago Mixte
Careful there, you're gonna get this thread locked.
Hey, I didn’t name them cups... Who’s in charge of bike part nomenclature?
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Old 07-17-18, 05:44 AM
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Originally Posted by dsbrantjr
If you BB does not fit the frame what would be the point to repacking it?
original fits but is an old style (not sealed bearing). I was going to install the newer one (along with the rest of the 105 group it came from) and realized the newer one didn’t fit.

Question is: is a sealed BB much preferred to an unsealed older version? I’ll be riding mostly gravel roads.
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Old 07-17-18, 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Jay.Money


original fits but is an old style (not sealed bearing). I was going to install the newer one (along with the rest of the 105 group it came from) and realized the newer one didn’t fit.


Although it seems highly unlikely, it sounds like the 105 group has an Italian bottom bracket as Hillrider pointed out. Italian bottom brackets are extremely rare. You just need a new ISO bottom bracket (1.375″ diameter x 24 threads per inch or TPI). Measure the length of the spindle on the old 105 bottom bracket to get the proper length.

Originally Posted by Jay.Money
Question is: is a sealed BB much preferred to an unsealed older version? I’ll be riding mostly gravel roads.
Yes. In every application. A cartridge bearing bottom bracket requires zero maintenance and last thousands of miles. I can't tell you how long they last because I haven't ever worn one out in 35+ years of using them. Even cheap ones last forever.
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Old 07-17-18, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
Although it seems highly unlikely, it sounds like the 105 group has an Italian bottom bracket as Hillrider pointed out. Italian bottom brackets are extremely rare. You just need a new ISO bottom bracket (1.375″ diameter x 24 threads per inch or TPI). Measure the length of the spindle on the old 105 bottom bracket to get the proper length.



Yes. In every application. A cartridge bearing bottom bracket requires zero maintenance and last thousands of miles. I can't tell you how long they last because I haven't ever worn one out in 35+ years of using them. Even cheap ones last forever.
K, good info. Will update to cartridge.

Further question, should the spindle length match the 105 length or the length of the original spindle (non cartridge)? I’m not sure that they’re different but wanted to be clear.

Also, what are the key measurements on a BB? Spindle length, threads per inch, diameter? Anything else? Then there’s making sure it works with the crank - square taper in this case.

Any my other considerations? Feel free to point me to Sheldon B if I’m asking basic questions. I have not done my homework yet.

The bike that the 105 group came from is a Canadian made Aquila Strada Max from the 90s. Toronto built, aluminum frame.


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Old 07-17-18, 08:28 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Jay.Money
Hi, I’m tinkering with building a gravel bike out of an old Miyata 610 with a 90s era 105 group. The bottom bracket doesn’t fit the frame but the 105 cranks are square taper, as is the original BB.

Should I buy a modem BB or just repack the original unsealed BB?
1st, you have to clean and inspect the original bb for its condition , worn/ pitted, ? that answers one question.
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Old 07-17-18, 08:45 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Jay.Money


K, good info. Will update to cartridge.

Further question, should the spindle length match the 105 length or the length of the original spindle (non cartridge)? I’m not sure that they’re different but wanted to be clear.

Also, what are the key measurements on a BB? Spindle length, threads per inch, diameter? Anything else? Then there’s making sure it works with the crank - square taper in this case.

Any my other considerations? Feel free to point me to Sheldon B if I’m asking basic questions. I have not done my homework yet.

The bike that the 105 group came from is a Canadian made Aquila Strada Max from the 90s. Toronto built, aluminum frame.


The spindle length should match the one used for the 105. It may also match the one on your current crank but not necessarily. More importantly, the spindle length should be wide enough so that the crank doesn't hit the frame but narrow enough that the derailer can move the chain far enough out to shift the chain to outer ring. Many old cranks use wide spindles because they are relatively flat. Newer cranks have moved the chainrings inboard and thus need shorter spindles.

There are two different bottom bracket shell widths...73mm and 68mm. The 610 should be a 68mm but measure it to be sure. The threading on the 610 is English standard or ISO (or BSA) which are the values I gave above. You shouldn't have to worry about much else.
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Old 07-17-18, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
In every application. A cartridge bearing bottom bracket requires zero maintenance and last thousands of miles. I can't tell you how long they last because I haven't ever worn one out in 35+ years of using them. Even cheap ones last forever.
With a modicum of care, a cartridge bottom bracket can last forever. But the same can be said about cup-and-cone bottom brackets.

I have a bucket full of failed cartridge bottom brackets at the shop, and I've even seen a fancy-pants Phil Wood cartridge die from neglect.
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Old 07-17-18, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson
With a modicum of care, a cartridge bottom bracket can last forever. But the same can be said about cup-and-cone bottom brackets.

I have a bucket full of failed cartridge bottom brackets at the shop, and I've even seen a fancy-pants Phil Wood cartridge die from neglect.
What kind of care do you need to give to a sealed cartridge bottom bracket? Serious question. I assume some grease/lube somewhere, but where?
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Old 07-17-18, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by robertorolfo
What kind of care do you need to give to a sealed cartridge bottom bracket? Serious question. I assume some grease/lube somewhere, but where?
Avoid pressure-washing the bike. Wipe down promptly after riding in corrosive conditions. Occasionally remove it from the frame to prevent corrosive galling to the bottom bracket shell. Check cartridges for failure and replace as needed.

Here's a Phil bottom bracket I literally had to hammer out off a customer's winter commuter bike. The bearing cartridges literally rusted through from salt contamination. I had to grind the rust off the outside main cartridge.



Fortunately, I was able to resurrect it by pressing in new bearing cartridges, but many inexpensive cartridge bottom brackets are less amenable to replacing the bearing cartridges:

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Old 07-17-18, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson
Avoid pressure-washing the bike. Wipe down promptly after riding in corrosive conditions. Occasionally remove it from the frame to prevent corrosive galling to the bottom bracket shell. Check cartridges for failure and replace as needed.

Here's a Phil bottom bracket I literally had to hammer out off a customer's winter commuter bike. The bearing cartridges literally rusted through from salt contamination. I had to grind the rust off the outside main cartridge.
Thanks for the info and the pics. I had in mind a couple of Campagnolo square taper sealed BB's, which I understand are nearly impossible to disassemble (without destroying them). They will be going into my fairer weather bikes, but I'll still try to keep an eye on them.
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Old 07-17-18, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson
With a modicum of care, a cartridge bottom bracket can last forever. But the same can be said about cup-and-cone bottom brackets.

I have a bucket full of failed cartridge bottom brackets at the shop, and I've even seen a fancy-pants Phil Wood cartridge die from neglect.
Yep. I had to replace the bearings on a Phil once.

I should also also point out that I have had terrible luck trying to get a sealed bearing B.B. to work with my cottered cranks. Dammit.
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Old 07-17-18, 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson
With a modicum of care, a cartridge bottom bracket can last forever. But the same can be said about cup-and-cone bottom brackets.

I have a bucket full of failed cartridge bottom brackets at the shop, and I've even seen a fancy-pants Phil Wood cartridge die from neglect.
We have buckets full of cartridge bearing bottom brackets at my co-op and exceeding few of them have failed. We get a few but very few considering how many we get in. On the other hand, they are cheap and easy to replace.

From my own personal experience, I’ve been through dozens of bottom brackets on dozens of bikes. No one of them has actually failed. They’ve been upgraded but I’ve never had one of any flavor from square taper to external that have failed.

On the other hand, I’ve had lots and lots and lots of loose bearing bottom brackets fail. Most of the “failures” have been due to the spindle pitting but I’ve pitted a few cups as well. The seals became better over the years but they didn’t get good enough to stop the pitting entirely.

Originally Posted by JohnDThompson
Avoid pressure-washing the bike. Wipe down promptly after riding in corrosive conditions. Occasionally remove it from the frame to prevent corrosive galling to the bottom bracket shell. Check cartridges for failure and replace as needed.

Here's a Phil bottom bracket I literally had to hammer out off a customer's winter commuter bike. The bearing cartridges literally rusted through from salt contamination. I had to grind the rust off the outside main cartridge.



Fortunately, I was able to resurrect it by pressing in new bearing cartridges, but many inexpensive cartridge bottom brackets are less amenable to replacing the bearing cartridges:
If the bike has a loose bearing bottom bracket, I would tell people to avoid using a pressure washer near the bearings. But a pressure washer isn’t a problem with sealed units. If your customer would have used a pressure washer liberally, they would never have corroded the bottom bracket to the level in your picture. The problem is salt and it needs to be removed as quickly as possible. Of course that level of corrosion doesn’t happen overnight nor even over a single season. It took many years to do that kind of damage.
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