I’m the new guy - figured out 9apd doesn’t work on a 7spd wheel.
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Toronto
Posts: 203
Bikes: The Grocery Getter.
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 39 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
I’m the new guy - figured out 9apd doesn’t work on a 7spd wheel.
I’m building my first bike. Had an 80s Miyata 610 with a busted fork (donor frame) and a 90s Aquila road bike with a cracked frame (donor wheels and components) that I’m building in to a gravel bike.
The mech from the Aquila is 1055 series Shimano 105 which I understand can handle a 9speed shifting (but was a 7spd on the bike).
I got some used 9 speed brifters and cassette and thought I was good to go, but learned that my wheel is a 7spd Freehub.
I do do have another wheel that has a 8,9,10 speed Freehub on it, but I don’t have high confidence in that wheelset.
Question:
Can I swap the Freehub out easily and go 9spd with the kit I have?
Or
Should I set it back up for 7spd and call it a day? I’d prefer brifters so this is not my favourite option. Maybe bar end shifters?
Or
Get my other wheelset serviced (not sure I’m there yet) and use those? Concern here is the sidewall of the rim seems worn - although I have no experience with that condition.
The mech from the Aquila is 1055 series Shimano 105 which I understand can handle a 9speed shifting (but was a 7spd on the bike).
I got some used 9 speed brifters and cassette and thought I was good to go, but learned that my wheel is a 7spd Freehub.
I do do have another wheel that has a 8,9,10 speed Freehub on it, but I don’t have high confidence in that wheelset.
Question:
Can I swap the Freehub out easily and go 9spd with the kit I have?
Or
Should I set it back up for 7spd and call it a day? I’d prefer brifters so this is not my favourite option. Maybe bar end shifters?
Or
Get my other wheelset serviced (not sure I’m there yet) and use those? Concern here is the sidewall of the rim seems worn - although I have no experience with that condition.
#2
Blamester
Just put 8 of the 9 speed cogs on the 7 speed wheel works perfectly. I usually drop the smallest one cos i don't use it
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Toronto
Posts: 203
Bikes: The Grocery Getter.
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 39 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
Can I just go to an 8spd cassette? I think it’s the same size as a 9 just different spacers, right? (Answer being no)
Last edited by Jay.Money; 07-23-18 at 06:54 PM.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,547
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18373 Post(s)
Liked 4,508 Times
in
3,351 Posts
@blamester has one good option of cutting down the 9s cassette.
Are both of the wheels/hubs Shimano branded? Or at least the same brand? If so, you may get lucky that they'll swap. You'll likely have to play around with axle spacers and re-dishing the wheel a bit.
There is another person working on that same upgrade right now.
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-m...d-upgrade.html
Are both of the wheels/hubs Shimano branded? Or at least the same brand? If so, you may get lucky that they'll swap. You'll likely have to play around with axle spacers and re-dishing the wheel a bit.
There is another person working on that same upgrade right now.
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-m...d-upgrade.html
#5
Blamester
The spacing stays 9 speed. Drop the next smallest one or whichever one you like. But i have never had a problem not using the knurled one.
In facr i dropped the bottom three and put a spacer behind and in front of the cassette for a better chain line and less rub on the fd
14/ 28 is perfectly adequte for me but you should choose your ratios to suit you.
In facr i dropped the bottom three and put a spacer behind and in front of the cassette for a better chain line and less rub on the fd
14/ 28 is perfectly adequte for me but you should choose your ratios to suit you.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Mission Viejo
Posts: 5,806
Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR400 (Flat bar commuter), 1988 Cannondale Criterium XTR, 1992 Serotta T-Max, 1995 Trek 970
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1943 Post(s)
Liked 2,164 Times
in
1,323 Posts
You don't need the knurled surface, it is nice to have, but I've run a spacer between the lockring and the first cog without issue (re-spaced cassette for best chainline). You just need to torque the lockring properly.
John
John
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Toronto
Posts: 203
Bikes: The Grocery Getter.
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 39 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
Yep, both sets of hubs are 105.
So if spacing stays 9spd, do I just adjust so the 9th spd doesn’t go anywhere (so to speak)?
So if spacing stays 9spd, do I just adjust so the 9th spd doesn’t go anywhere (so to speak)?
#8
Blamester
Yes. Use the derailleur limit screws as normal
Set it up so the extra click in the shifter doesn't happen by adjussting from the bottom gear up the to the top.
Set it up so the extra click in the shifter doesn't happen by adjussting from the bottom gear up the to the top.