Fuji Track Pro X Fusion
07-27-19, 06:57 PM
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Fuji Track Pro X Fusion
Recently bought this bike and plan to use it on the streets. The problem is that the fork doesn't have the hole for a front brake. Can you guys help me find a fork that fits? I'm also willing to trade the original or if anyone owns a fork that is 700c/ 26.4/ 1' and is selling it please DM me. I also have an aventon ultimate one point zero fork that I'd be willing to trade. Thanks.
07-28-19, 05:35 PM
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Here's the stats for the fork from this listing https://fixiecycles.com/shop/sports-...lkslvprp-599g/
Although i'm not sure if those are teh same fork since they seem to be drilled for a brake.
Try to find out what your forks are and just find something with the same stats.
The most important one is the rake (offset). Frames are designed around a particular fork from what I understand, and finding the fork with the same rake is probably a good idea.
Unless you're doing some custom stuff. I don't know how to find a good custom rake so I don't bother with that (yet).
General rule of thumb that I can speak on from personal experience:
Further away from the frame = relaxed, sluggish, rolls over bumpy things really well, but does not respond to your input as much, nice predictable handling at low speed, long sluggish arcs at high speed.
Closer to the frame = tight, twitchy, jarring over bumpy stuff, but incredibly responsive to input (these are the bikes that you can control almost entirely with body lean, I had a bike with some prominent toe overlap but I almost never noticed.). Almost no handling at low speed (don't be surprised if the bike tries to buck you off when trying to make some kind of weird low speed urban turn), but amazing responsive quick reactive handling at high speed.
I find that you can compensate for twitchy low speed handling by just learning to hop around the rear wheel.
But you can't just make your bike arc more than it's physical limitations.
This is all from personal experience and not as detailed as like the sheldon brown site would be, but as a rule of thumb I think it works.
Although i'm not sure if those are teh same fork since they seem to be drilled for a brake.
Try to find out what your forks are and just find something with the same stats.
The most important one is the rake (offset). Frames are designed around a particular fork from what I understand, and finding the fork with the same rake is probably a good idea.
Unless you're doing some custom stuff. I don't know how to find a good custom rake so I don't bother with that (yet).
General rule of thumb that I can speak on from personal experience:
Further away from the frame = relaxed, sluggish, rolls over bumpy things really well, but does not respond to your input as much, nice predictable handling at low speed, long sluggish arcs at high speed.
Closer to the frame = tight, twitchy, jarring over bumpy stuff, but incredibly responsive to input (these are the bikes that you can control almost entirely with body lean, I had a bike with some prominent toe overlap but I almost never noticed.). Almost no handling at low speed (don't be surprised if the bike tries to buck you off when trying to make some kind of weird low speed urban turn), but amazing responsive quick reactive handling at high speed.
I find that you can compensate for twitchy low speed handling by just learning to hop around the rear wheel.
But you can't just make your bike arc more than it's physical limitations.
This is all from personal experience and not as detailed as like the sheldon brown site would be, but as a rule of thumb I think it works.
Last edited by BicycleBicycle; 07-28-19 at 05:52 PM.
07-29-19, 10:59 AM
#4
enginerd
rake/offset and head tube angle also go together. mis-matching a fork and frame can cause squirrely handling, even when going to a more "slack" fork. The trail number also indicated stability. A track frame with a 74.5 or 75 deg head tube and a 35mm fork can actually be really stable. Total wheelbase also plays into how "quick" a bike handles.
Short answer: match the existing fork rake and length as closely as possible. I've had a bike go from no-hands, rock steady to twitchy from an overly large lower stack height on a headset.
https://www.cyclingabout.com/underst...rame-geometry/
Short answer: match the existing fork rake and length as closely as possible. I've had a bike go from no-hands, rock steady to twitchy from an overly large lower stack height on a headset.
https://www.cyclingabout.com/underst...rame-geometry/
