SeeSeeRookRook

Hi All!

To provide context, I am 6'2" and around 35.83 inches for my inseam.

I have made do with a Giant TCR Advanced SL 2021 (M), using a 110m +7deg stem so that my neck & arms doesn't hurt.
Some details that may help: my saddle top to bottom bracket is 769mm, and a 75mm drop in my saddle top to handlebar top

Around almost a year, I decided enough is enough and I will like to search for a better sized bike. Bike fit is out of question, as it would cost too much in my country.
My type of riding - I just ride twice a week, not into racing or anything.

As I was somewhat able to fit a M sized TCR, now I am not sure which size would suit me better.
Common sense would meant that L size fit me better, but what do I know?

Hence will like to seek the forum's guidance towards my next bike, thanks!

Iride01 

The correct size TCR for you is probably a L size. But the TCR is made for someone that wants and can ride in a very aggressive or race position. If that's not you, then you need to look for another model of bike that will give you a more relaxed position. There are plenty of them out there. You just have to quit getting tempted by the sexier looks of the bikes with aggressive geometry.

cyclezen

As Iride01 noted, you may want to consider a somewhat larger bike.
But really, before you start getting specific, you might want to clearly DEFINE what it is about your current bike that you find to be a 'problem', limiting, or you just don;t like.
Until you make that list of important changes to improve, you won;t know what you need to address in getting your next bike.
There's nothing in your post to even infer what you need to change/improve...
And a frame dimension chart, in that respect, means nothing...
Ride On
Yuri

SeeSeeRookRook

Thanks.

It wasnt about the looks of the bike, but more of the availability of Giant TCR, coupled with the lower price.
Therefore, I narrowed down to it.

In that case, Specialized Tarmac Elite SL4 more aggressive?

SeeSeeRookRook

Well, I feel aches on my left shoulder and neck, numbness on my left hand. No issue with my right side though.

Not sure if it is a result of aggressive posture?

ThermionicScott 

You could be subconsciously putting more weight on your left hand than your right. Make sure you’re keeping your elbows loose as you ride. Flap them a little from time to time.

79pmooney

Your elbows should always be bent. If that leads to back issues, well hey! There's a solid data point. Your bars are too far away unless you can learn to relax and bend/stretch further forward. Unbent elbows lead to road shock, rude surprises when you hit things you didn't see and chronic-like injuries. Bent elbows are your G** given shock absorbers.

Based on your report of issues with your left arm, that is the first thing I would look at (in part because it is easy to see and address).

oldbobcat

I vote for a large TCR or a 58 cm Specialized. Both have top tubes in the 58+ cm range. Refer to the Reach and Stack measurements to compare "aggressiveness." Remember that you don't have to slam a stem. You can make up 1-2 cm differences with stems and spacers.

SeeSeeRookRook

Yeah, I'm not flexible nor crazy enough to slam it all the way down

This is my current set up to show how I'm making do with what I have!

Iride01 

Even with the stem turned over and spacers under the stem, you still have that saddle to bar drop that puts you in a somewhat aggressive position with the TCR and the fact it's probably a size smaller than you might have gotten, though not seeing you on the bikes the L in the TCR might have stretched you out and even with it's higher stack still put you in a fairly aggressive position. Some of us like being stretched out and some don't. It's one of those things that if you don't try and give enough time to get use to it, then you won't know.

If you are looking for another bike and you would rather have a more relaxed position the look at the Giant Defy, Trek Domane or for a very relaxed position the Specialized Roubaix. Go by the manufacturers sizing guide to get you in the ballpark between two sizes, and then try them out for as far and long as you can in the actual terrain you'll ride... if they'll let you.

Even with the more relaxed position those bikes offer, if you like your current saddle to bar drop, then you can probably get that with a proper size Defy or Domane and have about the same or even less reach depending on what sizes and models are being compared.

oldbobcat

At 5'11+3/4" with 35" inseam, my best fitting bike was a M/L TCR with 175 mm cranks and a 13 cm stem with a short-reach (~73 mm) handlebar. Long arms, too. I would not have wanted to raise that seatpost a cm higher. Eventually I cracked it doing 40+ mph descents on dirt roads.

SeeSeeRookRook

Its really an endless trial and error..
it sucks that there's only secondhand Giant TCRs being sold in my area, gotta make do with what i have!

cyclezen

Don't become discouraged...
Equipment is one thing, and yes there are gains which can be made, but as you noted, it can be trial and error and gains are small...
The biggest gains for most of us are realized in 'tuning' the body/motor - and I don't mean a hard race training program.
1. Flexibility - Most all of us benefit greatly - in every aspect - by just doing some regular flexibility work - doesn't need a lot of time, no expensive equipment, just a regular attention using well noted flexibility exercises. It takes time and steady, regular application. There is a ton of info and exercises on the web which help address all aspects of body flexibility.
Flexibility allows your body to comfortably find good posture on the bike.
2. Finding a good riding posture - Relaxed shoulders, a bend to the elbows, elbows tucked towards the body. Relaxed shoulders means less stress on the neck and cervical vetebrae.
Hand position on the the bars helps reduce shock to the hands and ulnar area & nerve. Relaxed elbows helps to further reduce shocks coming thru the bike and bars.
3. Hip/pelvic, back of leg flexibility and strong core reduce shock and stress load on the Thoracic and Lumbar spine/vetebrae.
4. Spend time on developing a fluid, smooth pedal stroke. Riding an 'aware' comfortable pace, which focuses on smooth, round pedaling (done for extended sessions, of weeks and months); pays real dividends back when, down the road, you want to ride faster and harder.
Then tuning the 'fit' of the bike becomes a more productive process.
I see as many riders who apparently have their saddles much too high, as those who have their saddles low.
Your area may be difficult to find good, in-person help, but there prolly is some - it's worth trying to find that kind of help.
Buying New equipment, without a good understanding of what you need to do to optimize your riding posture and method, is usually not very successful.
Good Searching...
Ride On
Yuri

oldbobcat

Yeah, at the end of season in 1979 I set out to purchase a 60 cm Mas Gran Criterium. They were out of stock, so I settled for a 61 cm Gios for about $150 more. Gios top tubes were short, so it worked out well. About 36 years later I found the 60 cm Masi in a heap under a lamp post about two blocks from my house. Tacked to the lamp post was a sign that said "Free Bikes." It came with a smaller aluminum-framed Univega.