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I just bought...

Old 11-19-17, 10:02 PM
  #101  
Baby Puke
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Originally Posted by carleton
I made a nylon pedal strap today. Took me about 2 hours from beginning to end with a lot of re-dos and newb issues. The piece is very solid and functional and has features that the leading BLS strap doesn't. My measurements are off (need it to be longer) and the stitches look really bad, but it works.

I got everything I needed from Home Depot for less than $5. I had some Velcro ($3) from the fabric store. Nuts.

It's like when I strung a tennis racquet for the first time, 2 hrs. After a few times, I was down to about 45 minutes.

I'm really pleased with purchasing a sewing machine!
Any photos of your strap and how it attaches?
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Old 11-19-17, 10:28 PM
  #102  
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Originally Posted by Baby Puke
Any photos of your strap and how it attaches?
I'm not ready to share pics here yet, but I'll email you some.

I didn't finish the attachment part yet. I went to put it on the spin bike for a test fit and that's when I realized it was too short and the velcro placements weren't in the right places (this is why we test, right?).

I haven't settled on a way to affix them to the pedal yet. But, I I have a clever way in mind that I haven't tested yet to be sure.
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Old 11-19-17, 11:28 PM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by carleton
I haven't settled on a way to affix them to the pedal yet. But, I I have a clever way in mind that I haven't tested yet to be sure.
That seems to be the sticky part from the designs I've seen.
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Old 11-20-17, 09:10 AM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by Baby Puke
That seems to be the sticky part from the designs I've seen.
I've been working on that part for 2 months with the 3D printer.

I 3D printed the strap holders used in my pics in the other thread to hold my Toshi Doubles
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Old 11-27-17, 04:20 PM
  #105  
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I just ordered a set of the BLS straps -- guess i should have waited till @carleton finalized his design
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Old 11-27-17, 05:37 PM
  #106  
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Originally Posted by DMC707
I just ordered a set of the BLS straps -- guess i should have waited till @carleton finalized his design
According to the Australian Track Cycling Academy using toe straps provides an additional 200 - 400 watts of free power. They recommend BLS straps.
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Old 11-27-17, 06:33 PM
  #107  
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Originally Posted by DMC707
I just ordered a set of the BLS straps -- guess i should have waited till @carleton finalized his design
It’s gonna be a while

Originally Posted by 700wheel
According to the Australian Track Cycling Academy using toe straps provides an additional 200 - 400 watts of free power. They recommend BLS straps.
BLS are OK. Their design is simple and effective, albeit crude. I personally still think that NJS straps are better than nylon offerings these days.

I literally have a BLS strap in my hand as I’m pecking this reply. So many places that it can be better. Hopefully they can work on improving them as opposed to sitting on their laurels. The design is easily copied. I think someone here found a link to pre-made hardware product that was almost identical for only a few dollars. I made a clone as my “learn how to sew” project.

Not trying to dis BLS. Now it’s time for them to get better.
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Old 11-28-17, 03:31 AM
  #108  
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Originally Posted by 700wheel
According to the Australian Track Cycling Academy using toe straps provides an additional 200 - 400 watts of free power. They recommend BLS straps.
200-400
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Old 11-28-17, 05:35 AM
  #109  
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That’s max power during a standing start.

I believe that steady efforts are improved, too. They help pedaling circles easier.

I’m surprised that only sprinters use them.
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Old 11-28-17, 05:54 AM
  #110  
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... 165mm cranks, down from 167.5. Pretty small change, but dreaming of a little bit more top end.
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Old 11-28-17, 06:40 AM
  #111  
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Originally Posted by 700wheel
According to the Australian Track Cycling Academy using toe straps provides an additional 200 - 400 watts of free power. They recommend BLS straps.
It's instant power on the standing start.

I recall an older masters friend of mine (university professor in a science field) who used a power meter. I convinced him to try straps back in 2009 or so. He said that he saw +100w on his standing start immediately that was due to the straps.

Originally Posted by Baby Puke
... 165mm cranks, down from 167.5. Pretty small change, but dreaming of a little bit more top end.
Pedaling techniques change for sure...in a good way. I love my 165s.
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Old 11-28-17, 12:00 PM
  #112  
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Originally Posted by 700wheel
According to the Australian Track Cycling Academy using toe straps provides an additional 200 - 400 watts of free power. They recommend BLS straps.
BLS is a sponsor of the Track Cycling Academy, so take that endorsement with a grain of salt.

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Old 11-29-17, 03:06 AM
  #113  
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Originally Posted by carleton
BLS is a sponsor of the Track Cycling Academy, so take that endorsement with a grain of salt.

I see velodrome shop on there too
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Old 11-29-17, 06:05 AM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by ruudlaff
I see velodrome shop on there too
Sometimes, though, people partner with who they think is best. So while we can take it with a grain of salt, don't use an entire salt shaker.
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Old 11-29-17, 07:42 AM
  #115  
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https://www.nztrackstraps.com/products
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Old 11-29-17, 10:31 AM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by southernfox
Sometimes, though, people partner with who they think is best. So while we can take it with a grain of salt, don't use an entire salt shaker.
Velodromeshop has had a spotty reputation since I started racing back in 2009...and still does.

BLS has done a "full court press" by (seemingly) giving away straps to any high profile rider who will take them. Follow them on social media and you'll see that the riders give BLS the same pleasant casual endorsements they do for other sponsors.

I find it hard to believe that an online track cycling coaching consortium is in a position to turn down sponsors

He who pays the piper picks the tune.
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Old 12-03-17, 10:44 AM
  #117  
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Originally Posted by bartek.
Now, it's time to cross fingers for another package.
ok, so after receiving the scatto from VelodromeShop, i emailed about the Mavic IO/Comete wheelsets and got information that the package should be delivered about 20th of November. That means actually 3 weeks of processing the order in total. In a week before 20th, I got email with tracking number and got the wheels on 20th as stated 2 weeks earlier.
I was out of town, and verified the package a week later and well, one of the cardboard was a bit too narrow and the wheel bag (and cardboard) got holes due to force done by axles. Nothing bad to wheels but still the bag was damaged and package was simple packed without any extra protection. I sent pictures to the shop, got immediate email with all the sorry stuff and 3 days later received a new Mavic wheel bag.

So, all I can say is perfect shopping experience with them. Every time I got replies on my emails within hours, every estimation of anything were correct and any issues were resolved immediately (even if their T&C stated I should notify about failures within 24hours, and I did it almost 7 days after receiving the package). In fact, I wish to have this level of customer service with other online retails. They done everything in top class and great time performance. The only minus was packing, but honestly...most retailers pack in the same way.

Bart

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Old 12-03-17, 01:23 PM
  #118  
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Nice.

Pics?
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Old 12-03-17, 03:52 PM
  #119  
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Put on my new Deda Pista 130mm -27degree stem today.
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Old 12-03-17, 04:41 PM
  #120  
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Originally Posted by southernfox
Put on my new Deda Pista 130mm -27degree stem today.
Long and Low. Maybe head tube is too tall on this bike? I couldn't remember from your pic you posted, but are you running Scattos?
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Old 12-03-17, 04:48 PM
  #121  
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Originally Posted by taras0000
Long and Low. Maybe head tube is too tall on this bike? I couldn't remember from your pic you posted, but are you running Scattos?

I think the top tube is a little short for me, and the head tube is definitely not short. Yes, Scattos.
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Old 12-03-17, 06:46 PM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by southernfox
I think the top tube is a little short for me, and the head tube is definitely not short. Yes, Scattos.

I get that. That was my quandary when I was racing. Long torso and shorter legs means I had to look for bikes with a longer TT and shorter HT. My ideal TT length was 56.5cm. Often this was in between a 55cm frame and a 57cm frame amongst most brands. Going 57, the HT would be too tall, but at 55, generally the frames only had a 54-55cm TT. My steel LOOK is a 56cm frame with a 55.5 cm TT. I would slam a 120cm stem with deep drops on that frame because it was still a threaded headset. If I were to run Scattos on that bike, I would need a negative rise stem. It was all good because I liked a more aggressive steering geo, and having my hands slightly in front of the hub is where my ideal position put me. It all seemed to coalesce quite well in the end.

If you have the chance, maybe the Alpina bars might put you in the right position without needing a negative rise stem. They are deeper and have some more reach. It would be similar to my set up.

https://www.bikeforums.net/19802705-post695.html
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Old 12-03-17, 07:41 PM
  #123  
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I agree with Taras.

Southernfox, as you probably did on the road, you'll likely go through a lot of frames before you find the one that your body likes. The head tube on the one you have now will be a sore spot and you will spend lots of time, energy, and money trying to fit yourself around it. If you are looking to join the national team (or at least compete at that level), I'd suggest you get a bike with a more aggressive geometry and better dropouts.

I know this probably goes against everything I've written about bike equipment, but: If you don't know what to get, copy the people you are competing against as a starting point. Unfortunately, you want to race P/1/2...so that has you getting the bike that the P/1/2 ladies are riding
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Old 12-03-17, 08:03 PM
  #124  
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Originally Posted by carleton
Southernfox, as you probably did on the road, you'll likely go through a lot of frames before you find the one that your body likes. The head tube on the one you have now will be a sore spot and you will spend lots of time, energy, and money trying to fit yourself around it. If you are looking to join the national team (or at least compete at that level), I'd suggest you get a bike with a more aggressive geometry and better dropouts.
You don't have to go through a lot of frames. If the frame you have now allows you enough adjustment with stems and seatposts, you'll be able to spend the next year dialing your position in. You'll just have to take note of your contact points in relation to stack and reach (in other words, as they relate to the BB). Keep these recorded, so you can compare how certain changes effect your performance or preferences (power output,drag,steering feel...). Once you settle in on a position you like, it will be easy to slot frames into the measurements and see how stems/bars/posts make up the differences. BikeCAD is how to do this in the simplest manner.Some frames will be way out of wack, even though the size label says it's what you need. Others will be bang on. Sponsor obligations may also come into play, which can make things a little more difficult if you need to ride a bike that's way out of wack for you.

As far as the second bold point goes, it would be better to dial in your position before you look at other frames. You might have certain frames in mind right now, but you don't want to go through the whole fitting fiasco again just because you decided on a certain high end frame. Most of the top tier frames are pretty close in performance, and there is enough variance in how they fit to find something that can tick off most of the boxes you need.
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Old 12-04-17, 06:46 AM
  #125  
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Thanks. I'm in talks right now w/ Fuji about sponsorship I think it's pretty likely I'll be racing a track elite this year ^_^

The dolan will be a decent training bike (with the front brake so I can train around home with it).
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