For the love of English 3 speeds...
02-22-19, 11:30 AM
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Oil Filler on the Bottom Bracket:
My 1952 Raleigh has the oil filler on the bottom bracket that consisted of a spring holding a ball in place.
When I disassembled the bottom bracket, there was just a spring hanging down through the hole. I pulled it out with a pair of needle nose pliers. Somehow, the bearing seemed to be nowhere to be found.
I will, most likely, simply grease the bearings as usual, and I know I can just put a dab of silicone in the hole to keep the water out, but does anyone know if that type of filler is threaded in there, so I could unscrew it and screw in a functional replacement, just to have it as it should be, even if I do go with grease?
I was also curious, for those who go with oiling the bearings - what do you do when you rebuild them? Do you use grease to start with, to hold the bearings in place while reassembling? Do you give them an initial dousing of oil instead of grease, and chase them around like herding cats to get everything back together?
My front hub is also fitted with an oil port, and I'm wondering the same thing there.
I kind of like the idea of giving them a little squirt of oil once a week. It looks like there are various opinions on the use of oil on various threads on BF, that boil down to a) use oil, it washes gunk away and b) use grease, it works well and you don't have to worry about oiling it regularly.
My 1952 Raleigh has the oil filler on the bottom bracket that consisted of a spring holding a ball in place.
When I disassembled the bottom bracket, there was just a spring hanging down through the hole. I pulled it out with a pair of needle nose pliers. Somehow, the bearing seemed to be nowhere to be found.
I will, most likely, simply grease the bearings as usual, and I know I can just put a dab of silicone in the hole to keep the water out, but does anyone know if that type of filler is threaded in there, so I could unscrew it and screw in a functional replacement, just to have it as it should be, even if I do go with grease?
I was also curious, for those who go with oiling the bearings - what do you do when you rebuild them? Do you use grease to start with, to hold the bearings in place while reassembling? Do you give them an initial dousing of oil instead of grease, and chase them around like herding cats to get everything back together?
My front hub is also fitted with an oil port, and I'm wondering the same thing there.
I kind of like the idea of giving them a little squirt of oil once a week. It looks like there are various opinions on the use of oil on various threads on BF, that boil down to a) use oil, it washes gunk away and b) use grease, it works well and you don't have to worry about oiling it regularly.
Last edited by carfreefamily; 02-22-19 at 11:45 AM.
02-22-19, 01:24 PM
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Oil Filler on the Bottom Bracket:
My 1952 Raleigh has the oil filler on the bottom bracket that consisted of a spring holding a ball in place.
When I disassembled the bottom bracket, there was just a spring hanging down through the hole. I pulled it out with a pair of needle nose pliers. Somehow, the bearing seemed to be nowhere to be found.
I will, most likely, simply grease the bearings as usual, and I know I can just put a dab of silicone in the hole to keep the water out, but does anyone know if that type of filler is threaded in there, so I could unscrew it and screw in a functional replacement, just to have it as it should be, even if I do go with grease?
I was also curious, for those who go with oiling the bearings - what do you do when you rebuild them? Do you use grease to start with, to hold the bearings in place while reassembling? Do you give them an initial dousing of oil instead of grease, and chase them around like herding cats to get everything back together?
My front hub is also fitted with an oil port, and I'm wondering the same thing there.
I kind of like the idea of giving them a little squirt of oil once a week. It looks like there are various opinions on the use of oil on various threads on BF, that boil down to a) use oil, it washes gunk away and b) use grease, it works well and you don't have to worry about oiling it regularly.
My 1952 Raleigh has the oil filler on the bottom bracket that consisted of a spring holding a ball in place.
When I disassembled the bottom bracket, there was just a spring hanging down through the hole. I pulled it out with a pair of needle nose pliers. Somehow, the bearing seemed to be nowhere to be found.
I will, most likely, simply grease the bearings as usual, and I know I can just put a dab of silicone in the hole to keep the water out, but does anyone know if that type of filler is threaded in there, so I could unscrew it and screw in a functional replacement, just to have it as it should be, even if I do go with grease?
I was also curious, for those who go with oiling the bearings - what do you do when you rebuild them? Do you use grease to start with, to hold the bearings in place while reassembling? Do you give them an initial dousing of oil instead of grease, and chase them around like herding cats to get everything back together?
My front hub is also fitted with an oil port, and I'm wondering the same thing there.
I kind of like the idea of giving them a little squirt of oil once a week. It looks like there are various opinions on the use of oil on various threads on BF, that boil down to a) use oil, it washes gunk away and b) use grease, it works well and you don't have to worry about oiling it regularly.
02-22-19, 02:14 PM
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New rims for tired wheels.
My '53 Rudge Sport got new wheels. The old rims developed a crack down the middle. Not bad for 66 year old wheels! I'm thinking these new rims should own the path much better.
02-22-19, 02:28 PM
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The BB has an oil port as well. Into some new territory on this one!
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We are what we reflect. We are the changes that we bring to this world. Ride often. -Geo.-
We are what we reflect. We are the changes that we bring to this world. Ride often. -Geo.-
02-22-19, 02:36 PM
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Oil Filler on the Bottom Bracket:
My 1952 Raleigh has the oil filler on the bottom bracket that consisted of a spring holding a ball in place.
When I disassembled the bottom bracket, there was just a spring hanging down through the hole. I pulled it out with a pair of needle nose pliers. Somehow, the bearing seemed to be nowhere to be found.
I will, most likely, simply grease the bearings as usual, and I know I can just put a dab of silicone in the hole to keep the water out, but does anyone know if that type of filler is threaded in there, so I could unscrew it and screw in a functional replacement, just to have it as it should be, even if I do go with grease?
I was also curious, for those who go with oiling the bearings - what do you do when you rebuild them? Do you use grease to start with, to hold the bearings in place while reassembling? Do you give them an initial dousing of oil instead of grease, and chase them around like herding cats to get everything back together?
My front hub is also fitted with an oil port, and I'm wondering the same thing there.
I kind of like the idea of giving them a little squirt of oil once a week. It looks like there are various opinions on the use of oil on various threads on BF, that boil down to a) use oil, it washes gunk away and b) use grease, it works well and you don't have to worry about oiling it regularly.
My 1952 Raleigh has the oil filler on the bottom bracket that consisted of a spring holding a ball in place.
When I disassembled the bottom bracket, there was just a spring hanging down through the hole. I pulled it out with a pair of needle nose pliers. Somehow, the bearing seemed to be nowhere to be found.
I will, most likely, simply grease the bearings as usual, and I know I can just put a dab of silicone in the hole to keep the water out, but does anyone know if that type of filler is threaded in there, so I could unscrew it and screw in a functional replacement, just to have it as it should be, even if I do go with grease?
I was also curious, for those who go with oiling the bearings - what do you do when you rebuild them? Do you use grease to start with, to hold the bearings in place while reassembling? Do you give them an initial dousing of oil instead of grease, and chase them around like herding cats to get everything back together?
My front hub is also fitted with an oil port, and I'm wondering the same thing there.
I kind of like the idea of giving them a little squirt of oil once a week. It looks like there are various opinions on the use of oil on various threads on BF, that boil down to a) use oil, it washes gunk away and b) use grease, it works well and you don't have to worry about oiling it regularly.
https://www.mcmaster.com/ball-oilers
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02-22-19, 02:49 PM
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If you want to stay period correct, the thing you'll be searching for is called a ball oiler. Alternatively, you could use the later flip top style oiler, but those are threaded in and the ball type are press fit. I've never replaced one of these. Not sure what size they are, but here's the Mc Master Carr catalog page.
https://www.mcmaster.com/ball-oilers
https://www.mcmaster.com/ball-oilers
The bike goes to the local frame builder tomorrow to have some restoration done on the spread and rounded rear dropouts. I may take the fork to the locksmith to see if he can make a key for the lock. (Though I have to admit I'm paranoid about leaving parts of the bike scattered about town. I'd hate to go back to the locksmith and have him say "what fork?") In for a penny in for a pound.
I'm still waiting for it to warm up enough to do some rattle-can touchup on places I sanded the slight surface rust away.
It's slowly coming along.
02-22-19, 02:51 PM
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I don't see an anti-rotation washer on that rear wheel! Did the Rudge not have them? Or is it only on the non-drive side?
02-22-19, 03:16 PM
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Oil Filler on the Bottom Bracket:
does anyone know if that type of filler is threaded in there, so I could unscrew it and screw in a functional replacement, just to have it as it should be, even if I do go with grease?
I was also curious, for those who go with oiling the bearings - what do you do when you rebuild them? Do you use grease to start with, to hold the bearings in place while reassembling? Do you give them an initial dousing of oil instead of grease, and chase them around like herding cats to get everything back together?
My front hub is also fitted with an oil port, and I'm wondering the same thing there.
I kind of like the idea of giving them a little squirt of oil once a week. It looks like there are various opinions on the use of oil on various threads on BF, that boil down to a) use oil, it washes gunk away and b) use grease, it works well and you don't have to worry about oiling it regularly.
does anyone know if that type of filler is threaded in there, so I could unscrew it and screw in a functional replacement, just to have it as it should be, even if I do go with grease?
I was also curious, for those who go with oiling the bearings - what do you do when you rebuild them? Do you use grease to start with, to hold the bearings in place while reassembling? Do you give them an initial dousing of oil instead of grease, and chase them around like herding cats to get everything back together?
My front hub is also fitted with an oil port, and I'm wondering the same thing there.
I kind of like the idea of giving them a little squirt of oil once a week. It looks like there are various opinions on the use of oil on various threads on BF, that boil down to a) use oil, it washes gunk away and b) use grease, it works well and you don't have to worry about oiling it regularly.
Really, the only bikes that used oil only are track bikes AFAIK.
02-22-19, 03:28 PM
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Like these. https://www.ebay.com/itm/STURMEY-ARCHER-VINTAGE-BIKE-HMW-155-LOCK-WASHERS-QTY-2-HUB-WASHER-3-THREE-SPEED/290510264860?epid=1751968283&hash=item43a3c2da1c:g:HEcAAOxy1VlRFJE1:rk:1
f:1&frcectupt=true
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02-22-19, 03:38 PM
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Am I going to get in trouble if I swap my '59 Sports SA wheel/shifter for the SA wheel from my '60's Schwinn Speedster?
If I keep the same rims and SA hubs (heavy nice chrome, etc,) will I get into purist purgatory if I relace with stainless spokes instead of the galvanized. Bike is OEM but could be a lot prettier, and I'd like to ride it quite a bit.
If I keep the same rims and SA hubs (heavy nice chrome, etc,) will I get into purist purgatory if I relace with stainless spokes instead of the galvanized. Bike is OEM but could be a lot prettier, and I'd like to ride it quite a bit.
Last edited by RobbieTunes; 02-22-19 at 03:45 PM.
02-22-19, 03:44 PM
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@RobbieTunes
The rim won't fit will it? They are entirely different sizes, and the Schwinn is a lot harder to find tires for.
I think all my 3-speeds have stainless spokes.
Sun alloy rims are the usual goto for replacements. They've had 32 (front) and 40 (rear) in 26"x 1 3/8" (650A).
The rim won't fit will it? They are entirely different sizes, and the Schwinn is a lot harder to find tires for.
I think all my 3-speeds have stainless spokes.
Sun alloy rims are the usual goto for replacements. They've had 32 (front) and 40 (rear) in 26"x 1 3/8" (650A).
Last edited by Salubrious; 02-22-19 at 04:01 PM.
02-22-19, 04:09 PM
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@RobbieTunes
The rim won't fit will it? They are entirely different sizes, and the Schwinn is a lot harder to find tires for.
I think all my 3-speeds have stainless spokes.
Sun alloy rims are the usual goto for replacements. They've had 32 (front) and 40 (rear) in 26"x 1 3/8" (650A).
The rim won't fit will it? They are entirely different sizes, and the Schwinn is a lot harder to find tires for.
I think all my 3-speeds have stainless spokes.
Sun alloy rims are the usual goto for replacements. They've had 32 (front) and 40 (rear) in 26"x 1 3/8" (650A).
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02-22-19, 07:42 PM
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...The hub should have anti rotation washers on both sides.
Like these. https://www.ebay.com/itm/STURMEY-ARCHER-VINTAGE-BIKE-HMW-155-LOCK-WASHERS-QTY-2-HUB-WASHER-3-THREE-SPEED/290510264860?epid=1751968283&hash=item43a3c2da1c:g:HEcAAOxy1VlRFJE1:rk:1f:1&frcectupt=true
Like these. https://www.ebay.com/itm/STURMEY-ARCHER-VINTAGE-BIKE-HMW-155-LOCK-WASHERS-QTY-2-HUB-WASHER-3-THREE-SPEED/290510264860?epid=1751968283&hash=item43a3c2da1c:g:HEcAAOxy1VlRFJE1:rk:1
f:1&frcectupt=true
02-23-19, 07:47 AM
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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How about a classy Eye-talian 3-speed? Sturmey hubbed! Not cheap, but a neat looking ride.
https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/...826156882.html
bicycle type: other
frame size: 26"
make / manufacturer: Bianchi
model name / number: Pullman
wheel size: 26 in
1967 Bianchi Woman's Bicycle
Marked: PULLMAN
26" 3 Speed
Nice Overall Condition, Needs Detailing
Will Be Removed When SOLD
https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/...826156882.html
'67 BIANCHI Bicycle 3 spd Womans Pullman - $350 (Claremont)
bicycle type: other
frame size: 26"
make / manufacturer: Bianchi
model name / number: Pullman
wheel size: 26 in
1967 Bianchi Woman's Bicycle
Marked: PULLMAN
26" 3 Speed
Nice Overall Condition, Needs Detailing
Will Be Removed When SOLD
02-23-19, 08:10 AM
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Thanks Big Chief. I'll see if I can wiggle the old one out of the bottom bracket like an old tooth. If it doesn't want to come along nicely, maybe I'll leave well enough alone and seal it somehow. If I can get it to slide out of place, I'll order a replacement ball type.
The bike goes to the local frame builder tomorrow to have some restoration done on the spread and rounded rear dropouts. I may take the fork to the locksmith to see if he can make a key for the lock. (Though I have to admit I'm paranoid about leaving parts of the bike scattered about town. I'd hate to go back to the locksmith and have him say "what fork?") In for a penny in for a pound.
I'm still waiting for it to warm up enough to do some rattle-can touchup on places I sanded the slight surface rust away.
It's slowly coming along.
The bike goes to the local frame builder tomorrow to have some restoration done on the spread and rounded rear dropouts. I may take the fork to the locksmith to see if he can make a key for the lock. (Though I have to admit I'm paranoid about leaving parts of the bike scattered about town. I'd hate to go back to the locksmith and have him say "what fork?") In for a penny in for a pound.
I'm still waiting for it to warm up enough to do some rattle-can touchup on places I sanded the slight surface rust away.
It's slowly coming along.
Provided they have the blanks,
02-23-19, 08:21 AM
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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If it takes a flat blank you can make one yourself, with patience and some tiny files. I once watched a lock guy (also one of my bike shop dealers) make one from scratch by turning the blank in the lock and then filing away the faint shiny spots where the blank edge could be seen having hit the tumblers. Takes a good eye and a steady hand, and some time doing fit/file/fit/file/fit/etc., but it works.
02-23-19, 10:21 AM
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A friend of mine ordered key for his 1953 Austin Healey from here, Home and told me they also had Raleigh bike lock keys. Worth a try.
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We are what we reflect. We are the changes that we bring to this world. Ride often. -Geo.-
We are what we reflect. We are the changes that we bring to this world. Ride often. -Geo.-
02-23-19, 12:48 PM
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02-23-19, 01:14 PM
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There was a Brit vendor on eBay making fork keys for a reasonable price. I had him make up one for a Superbe I had some time back. An eBay search might bring up that info.
02-23-19, 01:29 PM
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The difficult part with the key is removing the plug opposite the lock barrel without damaging it, in order to get a screwdriver in there to unscrew the barrel. Plus, I don't know if I will be able to pick the lock in order to put it in the locked position to remove the pin. I don't want to try picking the lock without getting step one done. What if I get it stuck in the locked position?
The locksmith said that if I left it with him, he could try to take an impression and make a key that way, but I wanted to work a little more on getting the barrel out. Plus, I don't want to leave a crucial part of the bicycle with a locksmith without really knowing him. I had a locksmith destroy a $50 Vespa key, (one with a transponder chip) one time and then deny that the blank could have cost me that much. That made me wary of locksmiths.
The locksmith said that if I left it with him, he could try to take an impression and make a key that way, but I wanted to work a little more on getting the barrel out. Plus, I don't want to leave a crucial part of the bicycle with a locksmith without really knowing him. I had a locksmith destroy a $50 Vespa key, (one with a transponder chip) one time and then deny that the blank could have cost me that much. That made me wary of locksmiths.
02-23-19, 04:09 PM
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Locksmiths, by nature are a deceptive and unscrupulous bunch.
Operating under the cover of darkness they come and go, like
hobos wandering in and out of a bus station.
Operating under the cover of darkness they come and go, like
hobos wandering in and out of a bus station.
02-23-19, 04:24 PM
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The Raleigh is coming along. Got the wheels cleaned up and fresh rubber and tape installed. Any idea how to get nasty brake residue off? Brass brushes haven't made a difference. Perhaps vinegar and foil?
Last edited by Ged117; 02-23-19 at 04:29 PM. Reason: Oops
02-23-19, 06:04 PM
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How about a classy Eye-talian 3-speed? Sturmey hubbed! Not cheap, but a neat looking ride.
https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/...826156882.html'67 BIANCHI Bicycle 3 spd Womans Pullman - $350 (Claremont)
bicycle type: other
frame size: 26"
make / manufacturer: Bianchi
model name / number: Pullman
wheel size: 26 in
1967 Bianchi Woman's Bicycle
Marked: PULLMAN
26" 3 Speed
Nice Overall Condition, Needs Detailing
Will Be Removed When SOLD
https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/...826156882.html'67 BIANCHI Bicycle 3 spd Womans Pullman - $350 (Claremont)
bicycle type: other
frame size: 26"
make / manufacturer: Bianchi
model name / number: Pullman
wheel size: 26 in
1967 Bianchi Woman's Bicycle
Marked: PULLMAN
26" 3 Speed
Nice Overall Condition, Needs Detailing
Will Be Removed When SOLD
02-23-19, 07:38 PM
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I find blue Windex and foil works well on wheels.
__________________
We are what we reflect. We are the changes that we bring to this world. Ride often. -Geo.-
We are what we reflect. We are the changes that we bring to this world. Ride often. -Geo.-
02-23-19, 08:11 PM
working on my sandal tan
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Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)
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Are they 590mm rims? I know of Sun CR18s in 3-speed size, and got one for my bike, but if I could have gotten a Rhyno Lite that would have been even better.
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RUSA #7498
Originally Posted by noglider
People in this forum are not typical.
Last edited by ThermionicScott; 02-23-19 at 08:24 PM.