Show Your Vintage MTB Drop Bar Conversions
04-20-19, 07:31 AM
#6401
Blue Collar Cyclist
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Hi, I think the easy way to try this:
1. Tektro RL520 brake levers for v-brakes ◄ nice!
2. Shimano SL-a050 road paddle shifters ◄ so ugly their cool - and they turn my click-shifters into feel-shifters
3. Adjustable stem, so you can find your position ◄ Good idea.
4. Tires Maxxis DTH ◄ I would like to stick with sub 2" width tires - just a preference.
Your pedals hitting ground may be caused by installing front fork that is not suspension corrected, simply the new rigid fork is shorter and it lowered your bottom bracket
1. Tektro RL520 brake levers for v-brakes ◄ nice!
2. Shimano SL-a050 road paddle shifters ◄ so ugly their cool - and they turn my click-shifters into feel-shifters
3. Adjustable stem, so you can find your position ◄ Good idea.
4. Tires Maxxis DTH ◄ I would like to stick with sub 2" width tires - just a preference.
Your pedals hitting ground may be caused by installing front fork that is not suspension corrected, simply the new rigid fork is shorter and it lowered your bottom bracket
Those look like very cost-effective solutions! (about $65 for the major components on Amazon, plus cables (which the bike needs anyway)). Not nearly as painful as I thought it would be.
Of course, I'll need bars...
5. UPANBIKE Fixed Gear Bike Road Bicycle Drop Bar Bent Handlebar Aluminum Alloy 25.4mm: $21 on Amazon and they will probably weigh a little less than the 60-something cm steel bars I have now.
So, $86, plus cables and bar tape - not bad for a cool transformational weekend project.
@jskita - nice bike. This may sound strange, but tell me about that kickstand.
Last edited by ironnerd; 04-20-19 at 07:56 AM. Reason: Added links to products
04-20-19, 07:54 AM
#6402
Senior Member
@Nikola88 - THANKS!
Those look like very cost-effective solutions! (about $65 for the major components on Amazon, plus cables (which the bike needs anyway)). Not nearly as painful as I thought it would be.
Of course, I'll need bars...
5. UPANBIKE Fixed Gear Bike Road Bicycle Drop Bar Bent Handlebar Aluminum Alloy 25.4mm: $21 on Amazon and they will probably weigh a little less than the 60-something cm steel bars I have now.
So, $86, plus cables and bar tape - not bad for a cool transformational weekend project.
Those look like very cost-effective solutions! (about $65 for the major components on Amazon, plus cables (which the bike needs anyway)). Not nearly as painful as I thought it would be.
Of course, I'll need bars...
5. UPANBIKE Fixed Gear Bike Road Bicycle Drop Bar Bent Handlebar Aluminum Alloy 25.4mm: $21 on Amazon and they will probably weigh a little less than the 60-something cm steel bars I have now.
So, $86, plus cables and bar tape - not bad for a cool transformational weekend project.
The shifter that i recommended is a simple solution that should work decent when adjusted and easy on the wallet if you dont like the setup in the end
04-20-19, 04:39 PM
#6405
Senior Member
Finally got the fit spot on on the Kuwi. Went with an up swept bar that feels great all positions. Canti brakes need work especially the rear which aren’t doing much. Any recommendations on how to secure top tube brake routing? That may help rear brake performance. A lot different feel on 26s compared to my many 271/4 bikes. Feels great in the dirt though.
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04-21-19, 07:39 PM
#6406
Senior Member
04-22-19, 06:36 PM
#6407
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Picked this Marlin up a week ago at a local thrift shop for five bucks. Wheels, BB, plastic on the brakes, pretty much everything was shot, the headset, stem, post, crank, and front derailleur are all I kept.
Will put a different crank on it now that I know its a keeper. It fits surprisingly well, I've done about forty miles on it on three short rides. For some reason, I am really sore after riding it, but in a good way, cause I'm really cranking hard due to the excellent fit. Running Serfas Drifter tires on it, since my rides include lots of crummy flint roads and pavement both. Seriously considering getting rid of a couple of other bikes now that I have this, in fact I stripped down a High Sierra last night as a start to that. This one will be getting some better parts soon.
Will put a different crank on it now that I know its a keeper. It fits surprisingly well, I've done about forty miles on it on three short rides. For some reason, I am really sore after riding it, but in a good way, cause I'm really cranking hard due to the excellent fit. Running Serfas Drifter tires on it, since my rides include lots of crummy flint roads and pavement both. Seriously considering getting rid of a couple of other bikes now that I have this, in fact I stripped down a High Sierra last night as a start to that. This one will be getting some better parts soon.
Last edited by shipwreck; 04-22-19 at 06:52 PM.
04-22-19, 08:29 PM
#6408
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1991 Scott Boulder, tange cromo double butted tubes, originaly yellow-black-neonorange but now faded to crusty ochre-black-beige, it was found behind an old garage under a tarp, a little bit of surface spots but nothing too bad, there were no wheels and crankset, but everything else was there (but rusted)
So i cleaned it, dissasembled everything, used what i can, collected various parts from my parts/junk bin, i only bought chain, cables, tires/tubes and cassete,
I had a Lovemud bomber handlebar that i never could dial in on my previous bikes, now i got it just right and ohhh now i understand
wheels are early '90.-s araya rims/exage hubs/stainless spokes, brakes are tektro cr720, rd is old deoreXT, shifter is shimano something thumb trigger mounted really weird for the time being but it works, levers are some old shimanos, crankset is an unknown green thing 104bcd with a narrow-wide 34t ring...My plans are to ride it a bit and dial everything in, find a new shifter solution (maybe even friction) and when im satisfied dissasemble it, powdercoat frame and fork, clean up and polish everything up, maybe even make some repro decals as i like the old scott ones
04-23-19, 07:40 AM
#6409
Cyclist
04-23-19, 07:58 AM
#6410
Senior Member
04-23-19, 10:43 AM
#6411
High Plains Luddite
Those look pretty cool as a low-dollar alternative to bar-end shifters, "brifters", Genevalle, etc. Thanks for mentioning them. I don't think I've ever seen those before.
I see they're described as 2 or 3-speed friction front and 7-speed indexed rear on some sites (Amazon) but only 2x7 on other sites (including Shimano's own website). Amazon's listing didn't have a pull-down menu to select the 2-speed set or the 3-speed set, so I'm guessing it's one set that can be used either way.
This is probably a dumb question, but does the front derailleur determine if the front shifter is 2 or 3 speed? In other words, if you put them on a bike with a 3x FD, will the lever simply move farther and pull more cable than it would on a bike with a 2x FD? This is assuming FDs are properly adjusted, of course. I think this is right but I'd like to get a second opinion, please, if anyone knows for sure.
These might be just the ticket for a 3x7 MTB I haven't finished yet that will frequently be locked up in the same place outdoors, so I'm trying to keep it inexpensive.
I see they're described as 2 or 3-speed friction front and 7-speed indexed rear on some sites (Amazon) but only 2x7 on other sites (including Shimano's own website). Amazon's listing didn't have a pull-down menu to select the 2-speed set or the 3-speed set, so I'm guessing it's one set that can be used either way.
This is probably a dumb question, but does the front derailleur determine if the front shifter is 2 or 3 speed? In other words, if you put them on a bike with a 3x FD, will the lever simply move farther and pull more cable than it would on a bike with a 2x FD? This is assuming FDs are properly adjusted, of course. I think this is right but I'd like to get a second opinion, please, if anyone knows for sure.
These might be just the ticket for a 3x7 MTB I haven't finished yet that will frequently be locked up in the same place outdoors, so I'm trying to keep it inexpensive.
04-23-19, 10:55 AM
#6412
Senior Member
Those look pretty cool as a low-dollar alternative to bar-end shifters, "brifters", Genevalle, etc. Thanks for mentioning them. I don't think I've ever seen those before.
I see they're described as 2 or 3-speed friction front and 7-speed indexed rear on some sites (Amazon) but only 2x7 on other sites (including Shimano's own website). Amazon's listing didn't have a pull-down menu to select the 2-speed set or the 3-speed set, so I'm guessing it's one set that can be used either way.
This is probably a dumb question, but does the front derailleur determine if the front shifter is 2 or 3 speed? In other words, if you put them on a bike with a 3x FD, will the lever simply move farther and pull more cable than it would on a bike with a 2x FD? This is assuming FDs are properly adjusted, of course. I think this is right but I'd like to get a second opinion, please, if anyone knows for sure.
These might be just the ticket for a 3x7 MTB I haven't finished yet that will frequently be locked up in the same place outdoors, so I'm trying to keep it inexpensive.
I see they're described as 2 or 3-speed friction front and 7-speed indexed rear on some sites (Amazon) but only 2x7 on other sites (including Shimano's own website). Amazon's listing didn't have a pull-down menu to select the 2-speed set or the 3-speed set, so I'm guessing it's one set that can be used either way.
This is probably a dumb question, but does the front derailleur determine if the front shifter is 2 or 3 speed? In other words, if you put them on a bike with a 3x FD, will the lever simply move farther and pull more cable than it would on a bike with a 2x FD? This is assuming FDs are properly adjusted, of course. I think this is right but I'd like to get a second opinion, please, if anyone knows for sure.
These might be just the ticket for a 3x7 MTB I haven't finished yet that will frequently be locked up in the same place outdoors, so I'm trying to keep it inexpensive.
***Edit:
After looking at a few videos it looks like they were installed on a cheap vilano road bike that had a 3x7 drivetrain, so i guess it would work, though crudely
Last edited by Nikola88; 04-23-19 at 11:22 AM.
04-23-19, 02:14 PM
#6413
High Plains Luddite
Thanks @Nikola88. Sounds like they're probably more trouble than they're worth, especially given the time and effort they would take to install, remove, and re-install old or other parts if they don't work as expected.
That may be the reason I can't remember seeing them before at this forum or out in the real world.
That may be the reason I can't remember seeing them before at this forum or out in the real world.
04-24-19, 12:28 AM
#6414
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i just picked up this univega alpina s6.7 frame while drunk ebay shopping for something to build into a drop bar dirt tourer. while i probably overpaid a bit, i'm super excited about it! next on the list is a rigid fork for it.
question, i've been lurking bikeforums.net for years, but never really paid a lot of attention - do people do build posts here? like, should i start a post documenting building this thing up?
question, i've been lurking bikeforums.net for years, but never really paid a lot of attention - do people do build posts here? like, should i start a post documenting building this thing up?
04-24-19, 09:25 AM
#6416
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I notice most people don´t install kickstands. I find them very useful on these sort of cross builds.
04-24-19, 09:36 AM
#6417
Senior Member
04-24-19, 10:59 AM
#6418
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Not sure if this counts as an MTB because Miyata sold it as an ATB... This is a 1989 TripleCross. It is 700c x35 with Schwalbe Supremes, 38s would be a tight fit. It came with flat bars but switched out easily. A very light bike, 23.5 pounds stock. It is probably about 25 lbs now with drop bars and racks.
04-24-19, 11:11 AM
#6419
Senior Member
Not sure if this counts as an MTB because Miyata sold it as an ATB... This is a 1989 TripleCross. It is 700c x35 with Schwalbe Supremes, 38s would be a tight fit. It came with flat bars but switched out easily. A very light bike, 23.5 pounds stock. It is probably about 25 lbs now with drop bars and racks.
04-25-19, 08:44 AM
#6420
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1984 Peugeot Canyon Express
I bought the frame years ago - the seller started sanding but gave up on the project. There was still indication of Peugeot but not the model - Canyon Express is the only model that fit given tire size, canti brakes, lugs, and fork crown. I had it powdercoated. I have used it on a couple tours. Comfortable, not very quick but I have had it up to 45+ mph loaded on a downhill section of road. Handlebar mounted shifters
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04-25-19, 08:48 AM
#6421
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1985 Trek 850
My original plan was to build this as a 650B but I finished it as a 26". Haven't ridden it enough to form an opinion. I have it set up as a 2x7 - I don't have any real need for more than about 85 gear-inches for a high gear but want about 20 on the bottom end. Tange Prestige tubing.
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04-25-19, 08:55 AM
#6422
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1993 Diamondback Overdrive Comp
One of the "original" 29ers. True Temper OX tubing, maximum tire size about a 48 (originally with 45). I bought as a frame. I have used it on a couple 150-200 mile day rides. It is not quick, 1-2 mph slower than the Miyata TripleCross. Set up as a 2x9. I figure it is my best bike for gravel and rough roads. I have one more MTB drop bar conversion, a 1983 Bianchi Grizzly, that I use for winter commuting but I have put it away for the season. I'll try to remember to post some pictures when I next get it down
05-09-19, 05:04 PM
#6423
Full Member
86 Diamondback Ascent. Just converted yesterday. Already feels better than upright bars it had.
05-11-19, 04:50 PM
#6424
Senior Member
Ride snack
I’m 6’1 so fit is a bit tall but feels good while riding.
Out on the Kuwahara today. Set up pretty good. Still need a way to secure rear brake line to top tube. Some pics along Lake Erie.
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05-14-19, 05:19 AM
#6425
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Got one of these in yellow. Its 23", which makes it a bit of a french fit as a road bike. It's down the project list but It would be great to hear you thoughts on how your conversion works out.
Last edited by bark_eater; 05-14-19 at 07:10 AM.