Photo of new surly straggler dropout?
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Photo of new surly straggler dropout?
Anyone have a detail photo of the new surly straggler dropout in a geared configuration?
They changed it in October but I can't visualize where the screws are supposed to be set to.
https://surlybikes.com/blog/post/straggler_dropout_update
They changed it in October but I can't visualize where the screws are supposed to be set to.
https://surlybikes.com/blog/post/straggler_dropout_update
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IMO a stupid overly complex design, but then I don't own any Surlys.
The description tells the story, the axle is positioned wherever one want it, and squared up in the frame. Then the right screw is brought up to hold it there, and the left likewise.
Afterward, the left side can be left alone permanently, but the right will have to be backed out of the way whenever the wheel is removed.
BTW - all this nonsense is the result of trying to patch a problem that's easily avoidable in the first place. QR slippage was NOT a problem BITD, when makers adhered to the basic design parameters, including malleable dropouts, and dentated hard axle and QR faces capable of biting into them for secure hold. The advent of vertical dropouts and the proliferation of makers allowed for the loss of that key knowledge, and now they have to reinvent the wheel.
The description tells the story, the axle is positioned wherever one want it, and squared up in the frame. Then the right screw is brought up to hold it there, and the left likewise.
Afterward, the left side can be left alone permanently, but the right will have to be backed out of the way whenever the wheel is removed.
BTW - all this nonsense is the result of trying to patch a problem that's easily avoidable in the first place. QR slippage was NOT a problem BITD, when makers adhered to the basic design parameters, including malleable dropouts, and dentated hard axle and QR faces capable of biting into them for secure hold. The advent of vertical dropouts and the proliferation of makers allowed for the loss of that key knowledge, and now they have to reinvent the wheel.
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WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
Last edited by FBinNY; 12-01-16 at 10:16 PM.
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So far that hasn't been an inconvenience to me. The QR is holding well. But I'm still curious to know if there's a photo out there of the "right" way to do it, just for confirmation.
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Doesn't this bit of text plus the CAD model screenshot describe it enough?
Originally Posted by Surly
Moving forward from NOW, all Stragglers will only have one threaded hole for axle position per dropout:
Rear on the non-drive side to combat brake jack
Forward on the drive side to combat wheel slip under power
Rear on the non-drive side to combat brake jack
Forward on the drive side to combat wheel slip under power
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Just use vertical dropout.... why all the fuss with reinventing the wheel.. going backwards to horizontal dropout?
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I already own the straggler, actually. I don't think I made that clear. Just confirming that I am setting it up correctly.
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As I said, the right screw comes up the centered axle from the front, so it can't slip forward with chain tension. The left comes from the back so it can't slide back with the reaction force from the disc brake.
If that isn't good enough, you'll have to seek out a photo. Even if I waned to, I don' have the bike to photograph.
Maybe you could do it as I described, then take photos for people to confirm that you have it right.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.