mtb_addict

Pheonix...

gster

The Flying Pigeon is basically a Raleigh knock off but somewhat heavier and no gears.
The bike was the Model T of the 1950's and considered quite a status symbol to own one.
You could buy it, ride it and then decide if it's worth the trouble to take apart and send home.
A bike shop there could pack and ship for you but the cost may deter you.
I've got one from the 50's and rarely ride it.

This one has drum brakes

Ballenxj

Might have to box it up and ship it.

clubman 

It used to be that some of the better airlines would let you take an oversized bike box for a small premium. Scandinavian, Lufthansa etc. Your bike may induce a big weight penalty.
Airlines aren't doing so well these days.

gster

BigChief 

Because of the blue color, this bike would be a challenge for me. Every rusty 3 speed I've worked on before was black. I carefully replace missing paint and blend in the repair by compounding and polishing. I've been using enamel paint for repairs. I did once repair a small scrape on my Astral Red Bonneville mudguard by mixing Testors primary colors that worked out very well. From what I see in the pictures I wouldn't do anything more on the frame than polish and wax. It's the large rust spot on the chain guard and smaller areas on the mudguards that would get me attention. I don't remove the rust down to bare steel. And I don't level and smooth the area I'm repairing. I don't mind if the repair looks like a repair. I just want it to look like a competent repair. My goal is to preserve what I can and keep the bike from rusting any further. I don't know how well I could match this finish, but here's a mudguard that had a nasty rust issue that I repaired. I had to trim off a half inch from the bottom and the first 3 inches needed to be reinforced because the steel was so thin.

bluesteak 

What did you use to reinforce the thin holy section?

BigChief 

I used a wire brush to remove loose rust, cleaned the area with acetone then spread on a layer of JB Weld. Permatex Steel weld works well too.

Dewey101

A recent thread on another forum discusses a conversion a 1970’s Raleigh 3-speed to an ebike using a Bafang BBS01 mid-drive kit motor. Note: in the URL replace the name of the forum blanked out with ****** with a word beginning with R that rhymes with thread-it https://www.******.com/r/ebikes/comm...th_bafang_mid/

browngw 

I would like to build a modern battery case to power the LED converted front and rear lamps installed on Sir Wayes A. Tonne. Any pictures of the unit or its location would help. I'm assuming it was mounted on the seat tube?

ascherer 

@browngw Could you share any details on your rear light conversion? I've been on the lookout for a way to do that with an old SA tail light. Thanks!

JohnDThompson 

Yes, that's the typical location:

BigChief 

I just used the NL437R LED bulb. Screws right in to the original holder. They claim that it should be used with a regulator, but I've been using it for 2 seasons now without one. Hasn't burnt out yet. No modification necessary.
NICELITE SUPER LED LIGHT BULBS

bluesteak 

I am including photos of a frame I purchased last year that I want to start buildiing up. It appears that the bike original had 26-1 3/8 wheels with a 4 or 5 speed deraileaur.

I wanted the Benelux shifter

Benelux/cycling dropouts


Do any of you have any more information about this model? Did it come with dropped bars? How would you recommend I move ahead?

browngw 

I have been generally using the same procedure for the last five or six I have done. The hard part is usually mounting the bulb and I've used everything from epoxy to a section of tubing to hold the bulb solidly. A careful touch with a soldering iron allows attaching the wire directly to the tip of the bulb. Pre-solder the wire and then attach. Hope it works for you. The hardware store carries bulb for different voltage ranges. I have used 9V batteries as well. The bulb should last many years.




This head lamp has the batteries inside.

browngw 

Thanks JohnDThompson The drawing is a big help as well.

ascherer 

Thanks!

BikeMaster119

I like bikes very much and part of history is very welcome, I always think of my bike as if it is part of me so I prefer to keep it all the time, I prefer to carry it with something, but those eternal problems always appear how to get easier transport by car. I searched for different solutions and I was always unhappy so I hoped to find a solution, here is what I found, after taking a look I expect recommendations or at least one seems to thank you all.

PeterLYoung 

It is an Elswick Hopper produced in Barton on Trent, Lincolnshire, UK. Almost all UK bikes with 4/5 speed derailleur came with Dropped Handlebars. That derailleur Lug on the rear dropout looks to be for Simplex or Cyclo Benelux as it is stepped outboard and the lever is for Benelux though it might have been changed at some point. Original Wheels would likely be 26' x 1-1/4" but rims that size are very hard to find in good order. Taken me months to find a NOS pair for my 1948 Humber Beeston Clubman.

bluesteak 

I have a Benelux deraileaur now to go with the shifter. I read another place that it will accept a 20 tooth cog maximum. Seems like it would be nice to have a chainring smaller than 46t in that case. I am thinking I may go with 700c wheels.

clubman 

I like to mention this once a year but I have 3 or 4 sets of EA1 rims or wheelsets, most NOS or VGC for your next period resto.

PeterLYoung 

You are very fortunate having several sets of these rims. Those of us trying to restore 1940's and early 1950's 'Clubman' bikes in the UK often find that the bikes were so well used that the rims that come with them are worn out. My Humber Beeston Clubman (I obtained it from its original owner who bought it in new 1948) has both wear and physical damage to the rims and they have to be replaced, luckily I have managed to obtain a pair of 'Dunlop Special Lightweight' rims, one in stainless steel and one chromed but both are NOS with remains of original factory wrapping paper on them. I will rebuild the wheels using these rims which are exactly correct for this bike. I have met others in the same boat as me and unable to locate these EA1 rims. I quote from 'Sheldon' regarding these rims below.
The 597 mm size was also formerly used on high-end British "club" bicycles, with the marking "26 x 1 1/4 E.A.1" That size was pretty much abandoned in Britain in the late 1950s, when the 630 mm (27 inch) size replaced it.

If I need another set I will make contact with you and thanks for letting me know you have availability.
Best regards
Peter Young

PeterLYoung 

Yes I am sure 700c wheels will work OK though they will be about 26-3/4" dia overall with tyres so will require brake blocks to be about 3/8" higher than for 26" wheel, many frames can accommodate this.
I have a couple of 1950's road bikes that were designed for 27" wheels which are normally on them but I have alternative 700c wheel sets I can put in them and then I have to lower the brake blocks around 4mm when to align to the braking surface when using them.
If you are using a Cyclo Benelux Mk 7 derailleur, I have 4 Speed one on a 1950's Dayton Roadmaster running 27 x 1" wheels and freewheel bottom gear has 22 teeth (top gear is 16T) which it manages easily, not sure you could go more than that. I have a 46T Chainwheel.

bluesteak 

I am new to the forum. If I want to contact you about rims, how do I go about it?

I am including some better photos of the bike. Serial no. Y 67089. I am taking it to be 57 model year. I am thinking of it as a companion to my Raleigh Blue Streak.

Do you think it had ea1 rims








and drops when new?

gster

Bicycle in a Box

Some assembly required...