Stages Power Meter splines
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Stages Power Meter splines
I bought a stages power meter a while ago and have been using it since. However last week this has slipped during a ride (Im assuming a bolt has come loose). I've taken the power meter off on return home and have found the splines on it to be slightly rounded. Is there a way to fix this? Unfortunately Ive had it over the warranty period.
Unsure if it'd be possible to repair using another sheet of metal?
Unsure if it'd be possible to repair using another sheet of metal?
#2
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Hi and welcome to Bike Forums.
Sorry, but without pictures it is not possible to follow along with just a damage description.
You will need to ten posts in order to attach pictures. Go say hello in the Introductions forum and start your count increasing
Barry
Sorry, but without pictures it is not possible to follow along with just a damage description.
You will need to ten posts in order to attach pictures. Go say hello in the Introductions forum and start your count increasing
Barry
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(Shameless pointless reply by me)
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Can't the OP just post on an image hosting service and then link to the photo? What's stopping that from happening?
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1) Join a photo hosting site like
2) Upload photo(s)
3) Copy link from the photo you want to post
4) Click the 'upload' button and paste the link
Did I do good?
Likes For cxwrench:
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Have you checked to see if it was torqued on there properly?
To everyone else, I think he is talking about the crank slipping around the BB.
To everyone else, I think he is talking about the crank slipping around the BB.
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WOW, I had expected that the splines in the crank arm would have been a little chewed on the inside edge of the crank arm.
Yours are chewed, what appears to be all the way across except for the last 1/8".
I don't quite see how that happens..
Is the drive side crank/shaft of the same brand and model type (Hollowtech II) ?
I see no way to reconstitute the splines in that NDS crank arm.
I know the BB shaft is steel, but does it have any corresponding damage to it?
I think sending a photo to Stages and asking if they can transplant the electronics or offer a discounted replacement may be your only fix.
Barry
Yours are chewed, what appears to be all the way across except for the last 1/8".
I don't quite see how that happens..
Is the drive side crank/shaft of the same brand and model type (Hollowtech II) ?
I see no way to reconstitute the splines in that NDS crank arm.
I know the BB shaft is steel, but does it have any corresponding damage to it?
I think sending a photo to Stages and asking if they can transplant the electronics or offer a discounted replacement may be your only fix.
Barry
#12
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How on Earth did you manage to destroy a HollowTech II crank-arm? Those are virtually indestructible, when I searched Google, there are literally zero images of the splines being stripped like that. It's almost like the pinch bolts were never tightened down, and it was ridden for several thousand miles. That crank arm is toast though, I can't imagine the bottom-bracket is any better.
Your best bet is some form of crash replacement from Stages, those splines are completely shaved off.
Your best bet is some form of crash replacement from Stages, those splines are completely shaved off.
Last edited by gsa103; 09-09-20 at 03:55 PM.
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So the tightening bolts had come lose mid ride, meaning the whole crank 'slipped' at one point (so both the pedals and crank arms were pointing downwards. I managed to move it back and screw the tightening bolts back on but as you can see the damage was done.
I have emailed stages but not holding out much hope.
My only idea is to make it potentially non-removable by maybe welding / gluing it onto a BB shell. At least that gives me one constant bike with a power meter but unsure how feasible it would be.
I have emailed stages but not holding out much hope.
My only idea is to make it potentially non-removable by maybe welding / gluing it onto a BB shell. At least that gives me one constant bike with a power meter but unsure how feasible it would be.
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The threads look terrible, but there may be enough left to salvage the crank arm. I'd get a very small vee shaped file, clean out one or two grooves, and see how much of the thread is left.
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The plastic pre-load bolt/cap is the one that pulls the crank arm onto the shaft. If you leave that plastic pre-load loose ...well - nothing left but the crying !
Barry
In case you're wondering.
Here is the black plastic Pre-load cap screwed into the end of my hollowtech II shaft.
The other end of the shaft is permanently attached to the DS crank/rings. So no cap that side.
Last edited by Barry2; 09-09-20 at 04:42 PM.
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Bear in mind that there are three bolts. Simply tightening the two metal Hex bolts in the side of the NDS crank arm won't do the trick.
The plastic pre-load bolt/cap is the one that pulls the crank arm onto the shaft. If you leave that plastic pre-load loose ...well - nothing left but the crying !
Barry
In case you're wondering.
Here is the black plastic Pre-load cap screwed into the end of my hollowtech II shaft.
The other end of the shaft is permanently attached to the DS crank/rings. So not cap that side.
The plastic pre-load bolt/cap is the one that pulls the crank arm onto the shaft. If you leave that plastic pre-load loose ...well - nothing left but the crying !
Barry
In case you're wondering.
Here is the black plastic Pre-load cap screwed into the end of my hollowtech II shaft.
The other end of the shaft is permanently attached to the DS crank/rings. So not cap that side.
I cant remember whether it was loose but id like to think I screwed it up if it was. The splines / thread on that is in good condition.
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How on Earth did you manage to destroy a HollowTech II crank-arm? Those are virtually indestructible, when I searched Google, there are literally zero images of the splines being stripped like that. It's almost like the pinch bolts were never tightened down, and it was ridden for several thousand miles. That crank arm is toast though, I can't imagine the bottom-bracket is any better.
Your best bet is some form of crash replacement from Stages, those splines are completely shaved off.
Your best bet is some form of crash replacement from Stages, those splines are completely shaved off.
So the tightening bolts had come lose mid ride, meaning the whole crank 'slipped' at one point (so both the pedals and crank arms were pointing downwards. I managed to move it back and screw the tightening bolts back on but as you can see the damage was done.
I have emailed stages but not holding out much hope.
My only idea is to make it potentially non-removable by maybe welding / gluing it onto a BB shell. At least that gives me one constant bike with a power meter but unsure how feasible it would be.
I have emailed stages but not holding out much hope.
My only idea is to make it potentially non-removable by maybe welding / gluing it onto a BB shell. At least that gives me one constant bike with a power meter but unsure how feasible it would be.
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What do the drive side crank splines look like? Whoever did the initial installation did not torque the bolts correctly or at all.
#20
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That crank arm is destroyed. Never in my days have I seen a stripped HTII crank arm, nor can I recollect an instance of "triple failure," where the preload cap came loose, pinch bolts came loose, and the little pivot pin (that drops into the hole in the spindle) apparently vaporized. If not for photographic evidence, I would reckon it unbelievable.
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https://www.excelsports.com/assets/gallery/110537-5.jpg
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Maybe I'm using the incorrect terminology. I'm talking about the end of this where the non-drive side crank attaches to:
https://www.excelsports.com/assets/gallery/110537-5.jpg
https://www.excelsports.com/assets/gallery/110537-5.jpg
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If you were to weld the crank arm to the bottom bracket shell it would not move at all. The bottom bracket shell is part of the frame. The crank arm is aluminum alloy, the crank spindle is steel. You cannot weld them together. Glue would not be strong enough to hold together. Only option is to replace the crank arm
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Found this thread on googling. I had the same issue with my Stages crank - identical to OPs pictures. The central plastic screw had the outer edges chewn off and the crank arm slipped to the position of the drive side.
I found my Allen key screws to be loose afterward. These were torqued to the correct spec.
I've had the power meter for years but have not cycled much at all over the last 2 years and infact this was my first ride this year.
I found my Allen key screws to be loose afterward. These were torqued to the correct spec.
I've had the power meter for years but have not cycled much at all over the last 2 years and infact this was my first ride this year.