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Is there a danger to using a larger hub without cold setting?

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Is there a danger to using a larger hub without cold setting?

Old 09-18-20, 09:47 PM
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polymorphself 
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Is there a danger to using a larger hub without cold setting?

Putting a pair of newer 700s on an a 70s Motobecane and had to spread the frame slightly to get the axle into the dropouts. It wasn't much and I was able to do it quickly while dropping the wheel in, so not too much force. I had a bike in which this was the case with the fork and never had an issue. Is the rear something to be more concerned about?
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Old 09-18-20, 10:17 PM
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For me, it just makes things more complicated and kludged. It's usually not difficult to spread a steel frame a few mm's.
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Old 09-18-20, 10:36 PM
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Cold set it and realign the drops , so if one of the dropouts snap away from the stays a year from now, you won't wonder if it's because you cut corners.

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Old 09-18-20, 11:22 PM
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Yes. Broken axles and the tracking will be off.
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Old 09-18-20, 11:25 PM
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Take some measurements of the actual frame spacing compared to the over locknut spacing of your wheel. If the difference is 2 mm or less this is a non issue
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Old 09-19-20, 01:03 AM
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Originally Posted by alcjphil
Take some measurements of the actual frame spacing compared to the over locknut spacing of your wheel. If the difference is 2 mm or less this is a non issue
Guessing this is overall, not 2mm on either side?
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Old 09-19-20, 06:43 AM
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Originally Posted by polymorphself
Guessing this is overall, not 2mm on either side?
I wouldn't say it's a hard-and-fast number, but as you approach 2mm per side / 4mm total, you really should think about cold-setting and ensuring that the rear dropouts remain parallel. I have broken 3 rear axles over the years, and in one case my rear triangle may have contributed -- hard to say.

Ironically, this is the one place much-maligned stamped rear dropouts shine over forged, because they are at least a bit bendable. Forged dropouts are unforgiving under severe triangle spreading.
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Old 09-19-20, 06:56 AM
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I think the intention of the “over-locknut” distance is that it is measured from dropout to dropout or from locknut to locknut.
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Old 09-19-20, 08:23 AM
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I’m sure the science of it suggests there is. In practice though, I believe you’re fine at 2mm per side. Many people here, including myself, have done it for years.
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Old 09-19-20, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by polymorphself
Putting a pair of newer 700s on an a 70s Motobecane and had to spread the frame slightly to get the axle into the dropouts. It wasn't much and I was able to do it quickly while dropping the wheel in, so not too much force. I had a bike in which this was the case with the fork and never had an issue. Is the rear something to be more concerned about?
Although it doesn’t apply to your bike, some frames were made for transitional times. For example, my 2003 and 2011 Cannondale touring bikes came with 132.5mm OLD on the frame so that they could be used with both 135mm and 130mm hubs. Some mid-90s mountain bikes were made the same way.

From a practical standpoint, I doubt it makes much difference. I’ve put 140mm hubs into 135mm aluminum and titanium frames without problems. It’s difficult to get the wheel into place but ride-wise, it’s not a problem. The aluminum is far less springy than steel.
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Old 09-19-20, 05:32 PM
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There were plenty of factory bikes with 128mm spacing to work OK with older 126mm or the very-new-at-the-time 130mm spacing. Note that you're talking spreading/squeezing 2mm total, and by that time those bikes were sold new with cassette hubs, and cassette hub axles are more resistant to breaking than freewheel hub axles.

More than 2mm spread total, especially with a freewheel hub, you're better off cold-setting and realigning the dropouts. Doesn't mean the entire rear end will asplode if you don't, but it will minimize the chances of damaging the frame, axle and/or bearings.

It's also nicer being able to remove/install the rear wheel without having to monkey with the stays. Especially when you're late, or in a hurry, or have a flat when it's cold/wet/etc out.

Originally Posted by cyccommute
Although it doesn’t apply to your bike, some frames were made for transitional times. For example, my 2003 and 2011 Cannondale touring bikes came with 132.5mm OLD on the frame so that they could be used with both 135mm and 130mm hubs. Some mid-90s mountain bikes were made the same way.

From a practical standpoint, I doubt it makes much difference. I’ve put 140mm hubs into 135mm aluminum and titanium frames without problems. It’s difficult to get the wheel into place but ride-wise, it’s not a problem. The aluminum is far less springy than steel.
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Old 09-21-20, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by pcb
There were plenty of factory bikes with 128mm spacing to work OK with older 126mm or the very-new-at-the-time 130mm spacing. Note that you're talking spreading/squeezing 2mm total, and by that time those bikes were sold new with cassette hubs, and cassette hub axles are more resistant to breaking than freewheel hub axles.

More than 2mm spread total, especially with a freewheel hub, you're better off cold-setting and realigning the dropouts. Doesn't mean the entire rear end will asplode if you don't, but it will minimize the chances of damaging the frame, axle and/or bearings.

It's also nicer being able to remove/install the rear wheel without having to monkey with the stays. Especially when you're late, or in a hurry, or have a flat when it's cold/wet/etc out.
Frankly, I wouldn’t use a freewheel hub on anything. I’ve broken far too many freewheel axles and I’ve worked on too many broken freewheel axles to trust them.
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Old 09-21-20, 09:17 PM
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I have 4 126 mm bikes with "jammed-in" 130 mm wheels. 1 1985 Cannondale, and 3 steel bike.
No explosions so far.
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