Motobecane Messenger
#476
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roland cant u just install the 18t on the other side and flip?
im getting mine im wedsnesday im sooo excited!!
im still kinda iffy about the installation, is it THAT easy? i tend to have bad luck with installations and osmething always goes wrong for me...
any tips on the install?
im getting mine im wedsnesday im sooo excited!!
im still kinda iffy about the installation, is it THAT easy? i tend to have bad luck with installations and osmething always goes wrong for me...
any tips on the install?
#477
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#478
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Got an email back from sportymamabikes that basically said "it's simple" to remove and all I need to do is put a little heat on it. It was especially amusing since they also sent a link to the loctite website where it says the red loctite has an operating temp up to 300 degrees. The only way I've been able to remove parts bolted together with red loctite in auto applications is by putting a torch on it. Not sure I'm willing to do that with a bike hub.
Anyway, I sent an email back asking for either a replacement wheel (sans cog) or a credit. We'll see what the response is tomorrow.
Roland
Anyway, I sent an email back asking for either a replacement wheel (sans cog) or a credit. We'll see what the response is tomorrow.
Roland
#480
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Finally got the dam cog off this morning. Decided I was either going to get it off or destroy the wheel trying. I got it off using the following:
Basically a propane torch and a set of plumber's vice-grips that fit the existing cog perfectly. I screwed 2 boards to my workbench just wide enough for the vice-grips clamped to the cog to fit between and drilled a hole in the workbench for the axle. I tried to remove the cog without heating it up and I was not strong enough to break it loose. The I got the torch out and very, very carefully heated up the cog. I even stuffed some foil between the cog and the spokes to try and keep the heat away from the hub/spokes. Dropped the wheel back into the setup on the workbench and it finally came free.
So here's my bike in its current state. Pretty much stock, minus the rear brake, with the addition on the Surley 18t cog, a Surly Tugnut and some Candy C pedals. Going to head out here in a minute and try out the new gearing.
Roland
Basically a propane torch and a set of plumber's vice-grips that fit the existing cog perfectly. I screwed 2 boards to my workbench just wide enough for the vice-grips clamped to the cog to fit between and drilled a hole in the workbench for the axle. I tried to remove the cog without heating it up and I was not strong enough to break it loose. The I got the torch out and very, very carefully heated up the cog. I even stuffed some foil between the cog and the spokes to try and keep the heat away from the hub/spokes. Dropped the wheel back into the setup on the workbench and it finally came free.
So here's my bike in its current state. Pretty much stock, minus the rear brake, with the addition on the Surley 18t cog, a Surly Tugnut and some Candy C pedals. Going to head out here in a minute and try out the new gearing.
Roland
#481
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#482
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one thing i noticed, but correct and flame me if im wrong
how come most the bikes ive seen on here have the front brake lever mounted to the right hand handle where the rear brake lever was?
just curious cuz i grew up riding mountain bike and the brakes are always left front, right rear so a change like that would send me over the bar on the first hill lol
and also, good job roland on getting it off, i wouldve never be brave enough to do something u did lol
oh and ya... IM GETTING MINE TOMORROW!!!! WEEEEEEEEEE
how come most the bikes ive seen on here have the front brake lever mounted to the right hand handle where the rear brake lever was?
just curious cuz i grew up riding mountain bike and the brakes are always left front, right rear so a change like that would send me over the bar on the first hill lol
and also, good job roland on getting it off, i wouldve never be brave enough to do something u did lol
oh and ya... IM GETTING MINE TOMORROW!!!! WEEEEEEEEEE
Last edited by p120ud213azn; 12-02-08 at 02:56 PM.
#483
Pants are for suckaz
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Mt. Airy, MD
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Bikes: Hardtail MTB, Fixed gear, and Commuter bike
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I can skid okay but it doesn't allow for many skid patches.
The most common reason is: If you run the lever on the right side you can still signal with your left arm when riding in traffic.
Some people just like the look/feel better too.
Some people just like the look/feel better too.
#485
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It's a 52cm. Did a 20 mile ride this afternoon and the new cog makes dealing with the hills around here much easier although I lost about .5mph in average speed on the same course. Gonna try riding from the house sometime soon and see if I can actually get up the side of the mountain I live on. Should be interesting....
Roland
Roland
Last edited by Roland Owens; 12-02-08 at 07:17 PM.
#487
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oh shi, i think my cog might be stuck on with locktite...
i remember my cog has this reddish like residue that i mistaken for chrome coming off the cog from being tightened.
i remember my cog has this reddish like residue that i mistaken for chrome coming off the cog from being tightened.
#491
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30 inseam for 5'6 sounds like u have pretty long legs lol
go for 52 id say.
https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/roadsizing.html
go for 52 id say.
https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/roadsizing.html
#493
veggieburglar
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Santa Barbara/San Jose, CA
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I had this problem on my girlfriend's bike. There was no way that cog was coming off... we had three people working on it together, with leverage bars and a blowtorch. It was stuck on for good.
#494
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Okay, I'm at a fork in the road.
I want new pedals, these clips/straps are ****ing impossible for me. Not bad so far if I get in while leaning up against a sign or something and then ride around. But If I have to get out of the cages for any reason it's stinking impossible to get in while I'm moving.
I started thinking clipless, but then I'd have to get some MTB shoes or something that are decent for walking around in. Or, I could get some nicer pedals/cages/straps.
If I got nicer cages/straps would I have the same problem though? I've never ridden cages or clipless before this bike, so I'm at a bit of a standstill. I think some have a tab on the backside to flip the pedal around and get in?
I'd prefer just being able to ride in my current shoes, I just don't know if I'm ******ed or something...
I want new pedals, these clips/straps are ****ing impossible for me. Not bad so far if I get in while leaning up against a sign or something and then ride around. But If I have to get out of the cages for any reason it's stinking impossible to get in while I'm moving.
I started thinking clipless, but then I'd have to get some MTB shoes or something that are decent for walking around in. Or, I could get some nicer pedals/cages/straps.
If I got nicer cages/straps would I have the same problem though? I've never ridden cages or clipless before this bike, so I'm at a bit of a standstill. I think some have a tab on the backside to flip the pedal around and get in?
I'd prefer just being able to ride in my current shoes, I just don't know if I'm ******ed or something...
#495
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um, they should be on them pedals.
i practiced a lot with flipping into the cages, i'm a lot better with my left foot then my right.
i practiced a lot with flipping into the cages, i'm a lot better with my left foot then my right.
#496
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Hmm not sure if this has been mentioned, but besides the Loctite heat issue, I think the best way to get tight cogs is the chain-wrap technique where the chain is doubled around the cog and pulled tight around the bottom bracket instead of the chain ring. The grab the wheel around the rim between the spokes and rotate it, which gives you a lot of leverage.
#497
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Okay, I'm at a fork in the road.
I want new pedals, these clips/straps are ****ing impossible for me. Not bad so far if I get in while leaning up against a sign or something and then ride around. But If I have to get out of the cages for any reason it's stinking impossible to get in while I'm moving.
I started thinking clipless, but then I'd have to get some MTB shoes or something that are decent for walking around in. Or, I could get some nicer pedals/cages/straps.
If I got nicer cages/straps would I have the same problem though? I've never ridden cages or clipless before this bike, so I'm at a bit of a standstill. I think some have a tab on the backside to flip the pedal around and get in?
I'd prefer just being able to ride in my current shoes, I just don't know if I'm ******ed or something...
I want new pedals, these clips/straps are ****ing impossible for me. Not bad so far if I get in while leaning up against a sign or something and then ride around. But If I have to get out of the cages for any reason it's stinking impossible to get in while I'm moving.
I started thinking clipless, but then I'd have to get some MTB shoes or something that are decent for walking around in. Or, I could get some nicer pedals/cages/straps.
If I got nicer cages/straps would I have the same problem though? I've never ridden cages or clipless before this bike, so I'm at a bit of a standstill. I think some have a tab on the backside to flip the pedal around and get in?
I'd prefer just being able to ride in my current shoes, I just don't know if I'm ******ed or something...
They just take a little to get used to. When I change pedals, they feel different and I have to relearn how to flip em over to get in.
#498
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Firts loose the straps then learn to flip the pedals until you get a feel without looking down.