What Sort of Frame Fit Works for you?
11-16-20, 08:27 AM
#1
Drip, Drip.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 1,575
Bikes: Trek Verve E bike, Felt Doctrine 4 XC, Opus Horizon Apex 1
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1034 Post(s)
Liked 193 Times
in
163 Posts
What Sort of Frame Fit Works for you?
Generally speaking, you got -
Road and Gravel frames - short reach which compensate for the stretched out drop bars
XC and trail bikes - long drawn out reach
Cruiser, commuter, hybrid comfort bikes - shorter reach and more upright stem position.
Even if you get a bike with a super aggressive reach, as long as the frame actually fits you properly, you should be able to find the right balance between comfort and aggressive position.
If your correct saddle position is considerably HIGHER than your handlebars, the frame does NOT fit you correctly . Just because you think the racy position is cool or effective or you think its comfortable does not mean you are getting the most out of your bike from an endurance or handling perspective whatsoever.
Otherwise, if you take a look between a vintage road or mountain bike, really not any dramatic differences in geomtery. Yes you get wider tires, better bottom bracket clearance, and maybe a long fork to account for the slacker head tube angle.
Modern trail bikes have radically changed in geometry. They are long and low. The longer reach helps you weight the front axle as necessary to gain front tire traction over technical stuff.
For me personally, I am 6ft3, 225lb, often ride with a loaded backpack. I am pretty top heavy (mostly muscle, a bit of extra fat) and a slightly above average inseam at roughly 34.5 inches. I have yet to try drop bars in a bike which genuinely fits me comfortably, but I dread frames with a long reach - mainly because there isn't enough singletrack in my area to warrant such a riding position. As such, a road or gravel bike converted to mountain bike riser bars has proved to work best for my needs.
Generally speaking, if you push your bike as hard as you can into a turn and feel your front tire giving up traction early and easily, another sign that your bike does not fit you properly which therefore is making it difficult for you to balance yourself front/rear.
So my question is -
1. What sort of riding do you do
2. Do you prefer upright, leaning forward or somewhere in between
3. If you prefer drop bar or flat bar, explain why. Also, explain your experience with the one you prefer less
4. What sort of frame geometry suits your needs best?
5. What sort of experiences regarding trial and error did you endure to figure this out?
I'll start -
1. Mostly pavement. Some gravel. Limited technical singletrack.
2. Pretty upright, with a bit of lean
3. No experience with comfortable fitting drop bars. Prefer flat bars for their manevourability
4. XXL frame with a short reach and pretty high stack
5. Trying to make two different XC bikes which were too small and promoted an overly stretched out position to determine that trail bikes don't suit my needs with regards to riding style or riding position
Road and Gravel frames - short reach which compensate for the stretched out drop bars
XC and trail bikes - long drawn out reach
Cruiser, commuter, hybrid comfort bikes - shorter reach and more upright stem position.
Even if you get a bike with a super aggressive reach, as long as the frame actually fits you properly, you should be able to find the right balance between comfort and aggressive position.
If your correct saddle position is considerably HIGHER than your handlebars, the frame does NOT fit you correctly . Just because you think the racy position is cool or effective or you think its comfortable does not mean you are getting the most out of your bike from an endurance or handling perspective whatsoever.
Otherwise, if you take a look between a vintage road or mountain bike, really not any dramatic differences in geomtery. Yes you get wider tires, better bottom bracket clearance, and maybe a long fork to account for the slacker head tube angle.
Modern trail bikes have radically changed in geometry. They are long and low. The longer reach helps you weight the front axle as necessary to gain front tire traction over technical stuff.
For me personally, I am 6ft3, 225lb, often ride with a loaded backpack. I am pretty top heavy (mostly muscle, a bit of extra fat) and a slightly above average inseam at roughly 34.5 inches. I have yet to try drop bars in a bike which genuinely fits me comfortably, but I dread frames with a long reach - mainly because there isn't enough singletrack in my area to warrant such a riding position. As such, a road or gravel bike converted to mountain bike riser bars has proved to work best for my needs.
Generally speaking, if you push your bike as hard as you can into a turn and feel your front tire giving up traction early and easily, another sign that your bike does not fit you properly which therefore is making it difficult for you to balance yourself front/rear.
So my question is -
1. What sort of riding do you do
2. Do you prefer upright, leaning forward or somewhere in between
3. If you prefer drop bar or flat bar, explain why. Also, explain your experience with the one you prefer less
4. What sort of frame geometry suits your needs best?
5. What sort of experiences regarding trial and error did you endure to figure this out?
I'll start -
1. Mostly pavement. Some gravel. Limited technical singletrack.
2. Pretty upright, with a bit of lean
3. No experience with comfortable fitting drop bars. Prefer flat bars for their manevourability
4. XXL frame with a short reach and pretty high stack
5. Trying to make two different XC bikes which were too small and promoted an overly stretched out position to determine that trail bikes don't suit my needs with regards to riding style or riding position
11-17-20, 10:08 AM
#2
Drip, Drip.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 1,575
Bikes: Trek Verve E bike, Felt Doctrine 4 XC, Opus Horizon Apex 1
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1034 Post(s)
Liked 193 Times
in
163 Posts
1. Paved roads of very poor quality, very bumpy and damaged with loose dirt on some sections, some gravel.
2. Leaning
3. Drop bar followed by dutch bar
4. Smallest frame possible with long reach, lowest stack (I'm 5'8" but I prefer very small XXS frame to have more seatpost showing for better road compliance due to our bad roads, lowest stack as I'm trained in the race geometry, long reach because of my preferred pedal position to avoid toe strike)
5. Having a MTB. I want a road or gravel bike with compliant frame design similar to a MTB (short seat tube for better shock absorption and long reach for avoiding toe strike).
2. Leaning
3. Drop bar followed by dutch bar
4. Smallest frame possible with long reach, lowest stack (I'm 5'8" but I prefer very small XXS frame to have more seatpost showing for better road compliance due to our bad roads, lowest stack as I'm trained in the race geometry, long reach because of my preferred pedal position to avoid toe strike)
5. Having a MTB. I want a road or gravel bike with compliant frame design similar to a MTB (short seat tube for better shock absorption and long reach for avoiding toe strike).
There are bikes out there which have a seat tube length considerably lower than the stack. Plus, if ride comfort is important to you, you get get a super smooth riding steel frame without necessarily needing a long reach. Im sure that a long top tube could help with that, but I think the shape and design of the fork as well as the material used for the frame would make more of a difference here. Im sure you are aware that you will get far better comfort and performance if you kept looking for a frame with your ideal dimensions, just in your actual size (M or L.)
Plus, how drawn out are you trying to be? A long reach, drop bars, a short stack, and probably a long stem too? This is insane .
Likes For Moisture:
11-17-20, 11:26 AM
#3
I'm good to go!
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 14,986
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6193 Post(s)
Liked 4,809 Times
in
3,317 Posts
So this is more a thread where we tell you what we've found that works for us and you tell us why we are wrong?
Likes For Iride01:
11-17-20, 05:29 PM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 5,949
Bikes: Colnago, Van Dessel, Factor, Cervelo, Ritchey
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3949 Post(s)
Liked 7,296 Times
in
2,946 Posts
Likes For tomato coupe:
11-17-20, 07:53 PM
#7
Drip, Drip.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 1,575
Bikes: Trek Verve E bike, Felt Doctrine 4 XC, Opus Horizon Apex 1
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1034 Post(s)
Liked 193 Times
in
163 Posts
My bike didn't really have a short stack so worked it out with the -35 degree stem. I just can't afford those bikes with short stack (short head tube) frames, they all seem to be the expensive kind.
Stem is normal length at 110mm. However, I put a huge setback on my saddle because I like to pull on the pedals (use my hamstrings) so that takes care of the reach. Seat suspension + 35mm wide road tires takes care of the very bumpy, ill-maintained road problem. I can't afford steel bikes either so that's not an option as well.
I'm perfectly comfortable with the bike. I do 3 hr rides in the mountains a few times a week (shorter rides in the hills in between). No numbness, no soreness, no pain anywhere and my shorts are unpadded and I don't wear gloves. I hate padding and gloves due to our hot, tropical climate where it can constantly give you 100F temperatures on the road.
It's a heavy bike at 35 to 40 lbs and I bring it up mountains with up to 20% gradients. That means long periods out of the saddle in the lowest gear at goofy low speeds!
Stem is normal length at 110mm. However, I put a huge setback on my saddle because I like to pull on the pedals (use my hamstrings) so that takes care of the reach. Seat suspension + 35mm wide road tires takes care of the very bumpy, ill-maintained road problem. I can't afford steel bikes either so that's not an option as well.
I'm perfectly comfortable with the bike. I do 3 hr rides in the mountains a few times a week (shorter rides in the hills in between). No numbness, no soreness, no pain anywhere and my shorts are unpadded and I don't wear gloves. I hate padding and gloves due to our hot, tropical climate where it can constantly give you 100F temperatures on the road.
It's a heavy bike at 35 to 40 lbs and I bring it up mountains with up to 20% gradients. That means long periods out of the saddle in the lowest gear at goofy low speeds!
You dont think that stem angle is a touch extreme? How does the bike respond when you push as hard as you can into a corner? Does it feel balanced or does the front tire tend to lose traction first?
It doesnt look as extreme as I thought it would, so I can see that it probably works great for you. Just curious- have you tried riding a bike setup similarly but with a higher stack to make the handlebars more or less level with the saddle?
I sort of gave up the racy lean forward position on my gt by lowering the seat. I also had to angle it up a little bit which put more leverage into the suspension seatpost. Much more comfortable ride. Im pretty top heavy and I also have long legs, so a racy position results in such a dreadful nose heavy feel and sore wrists. My lower back hates it.
I really want to get those bull bar attachments for my.current bike, the norco, so that I can switch grip positions without necessarily committing to the always drawn out position of drop bars.
I guess that, whether somebody likes to lean forward very aggressive, or.dial back the angle a tad depends on how their body proportions allow them to balance themselves on the bike. By being relatively upright I feel like I can use this position to my advantage by using the brunt of my weight to rotate the cranks in a more hamstring/glute intensive manner. Plus, I feel so balanced on my bike, that the handling ends up being so fantastically balanced between the front/rear tire. Great fun to push the rear tire to its limits of adhesion on a whim, but aerodynamics do suffer in windy conditions.
11-17-20, 08:33 PM
#8
just another gosling
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Everett, WA
Posts: 19,533
Bikes: CoMo Speedster 2003, Trek 5200, CAAD 9, Fred 2004
Mentioned: 115 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3888 Post(s)
Liked 1,938 Times
in
1,383 Posts
My bike didn't really have a short stack so worked it out with the -35 degree stem. I just can't afford those bikes with short stack (short head tube) frames, they all seem to be the expensive kind.
Stem is normal length at 110mm. However, I put a huge setback on my saddle because I like to pull on the pedals (use my hamstrings) so that takes care of the reach. Seat suspension + 35mm wide road tires takes care of the very bumpy, ill-maintained road problem. I can't afford steel bikes either so that's not an option as well.
I'm perfectly comfortable with the bike. I do 3 hr rides in the mountains a few times a week (shorter rides in the hills in between). No numbness, no soreness, no pain anywhere and my shorts are unpadded and I don't wear gloves. I hate padding and gloves due to our hot, tropical climate where it can constantly give you 100F temperatures on the road.
It's a heavy bike at 35 to 40 lbs and I bring it up mountains with up to 20% gradients. That means long periods out of the saddle in the lowest gear at goofy low speeds!
Stem is normal length at 110mm. However, I put a huge setback on my saddle because I like to pull on the pedals (use my hamstrings) so that takes care of the reach. Seat suspension + 35mm wide road tires takes care of the very bumpy, ill-maintained road problem. I can't afford steel bikes either so that's not an option as well.
I'm perfectly comfortable with the bike. I do 3 hr rides in the mountains a few times a week (shorter rides in the hills in between). No numbness, no soreness, no pain anywhere and my shorts are unpadded and I don't wear gloves. I hate padding and gloves due to our hot, tropical climate where it can constantly give you 100F temperatures on the road.
It's a heavy bike at 35 to 40 lbs and I bring it up mountains with up to 20% gradients. That means long periods out of the saddle in the lowest gear at goofy low speeds!
__________________
Results matter
Results matter
11-17-20, 10:06 PM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Tallahassee, FL
Posts: 4,811
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1591 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,018 Times
in
571 Posts
1. Paved rural roads. Generally good surfaces.
2. Leaning. Upright is harder on my back.
3. Drop bar. Not at all comfortable on flat bars. Hard on the wrists.
4. I've been riding a vintage racing frame for several years. Just picked up another vintage ride with a more relaxed frame and a slightly longer stem. I find myself in the drops more, so perhaps it's a better fit.
5. After not riding for decades, I started again trying a couple of hybrids. Wasn't really that comfortable. My wrists and back would start to hurt a bit after 5 miles. When I tried a road bike, it felt much, much better. I did see a fitter once, but he did little other than raise my seat a bit.
2. Leaning. Upright is harder on my back.
3. Drop bar. Not at all comfortable on flat bars. Hard on the wrists.
4. I've been riding a vintage racing frame for several years. Just picked up another vintage ride with a more relaxed frame and a slightly longer stem. I find myself in the drops more, so perhaps it's a better fit.
5. After not riding for decades, I started again trying a couple of hybrids. Wasn't really that comfortable. My wrists and back would start to hurt a bit after 5 miles. When I tried a road bike, it felt much, much better. I did see a fitter once, but he did little other than raise my seat a bit.
11-18-20, 11:13 AM
#10
just another gosling
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Everett, WA
Posts: 19,533
Bikes: CoMo Speedster 2003, Trek 5200, CAAD 9, Fred 2004
Mentioned: 115 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3888 Post(s)
Liked 1,938 Times
in
1,383 Posts
Yes, it feels great. I really don't notice the weight until I'm chasing another cyclist who is riding on a lightweight bike! It takes a while for me catch up.
Plastic quill pedals that came with the bike. I'll replace it with alloy flat pedals eventually when it breaks apart. I actually like those pedals if it wasn't so flimsy and squeaky, easy to pull on the upstroke.
Plastic quill pedals that came with the bike. I'll replace it with alloy flat pedals eventually when it breaks apart. I actually like those pedals if it wasn't so flimsy and squeaky, easy to pull on the upstroke.
The bolt holes are for the toe clips - clips and straps in the right side menu. I rode with identical pedals, clips and straps when I was in my teens. These pedals w/clips or clipless pedals are key to cycling performance. No special shoes required.
I always tightened the left strap and threaded it through the buckle. I never threaded the right strap through the buckle. In the city, I left the right strap loose and tightened it in the country. Just a touch with one finger loosens it. Obviously though, clipless pedals are simpler and safer, though clips were fine for about 80 years.
__________________
Results matter
Results matter
Likes For Carbonfiberboy:
11-18-20, 10:10 PM
#11
Drip, Drip.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 1,575
Bikes: Trek Verve E bike, Felt Doctrine 4 XC, Opus Horizon Apex 1
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1034 Post(s)
Liked 193 Times
in
163 Posts
Yes. The same bike used to have significantly higher handlebar with the stock stem. I'm actually less comfortable with the more upright position. The bike has narrow TT saddle (ISM PN1.1) which is less comfortable if you're sitting more upright and putting more weight on it
Definitely.
11-18-20, 10:12 PM
#12
Drip, Drip.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 1,575
Bikes: Trek Verve E bike, Felt Doctrine 4 XC, Opus Horizon Apex 1
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1034 Post(s)
Liked 193 Times
in
163 Posts
You shouldn't give up on the idea of flat bars entirely, unless you've genuinely already tried a frame which was on point in terms of fit.
11-19-20, 10:32 AM
#13
Drip, Drip.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 1,575
Bikes: Trek Verve E bike, Felt Doctrine 4 XC, Opus Horizon Apex 1
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1034 Post(s)
Liked 193 Times
in
163 Posts
I don't like wider, more padded saddle. Presses against my hamstrings when I'm pulling on the bottom and upstroke. And I really can't angle my saddle more upright . It gives me lower back pain due to my unique spine structure. I've angled my saddle just to the UCI limit of -9 degrees.
My setup is perfect as it is. No problem whatsoever.
My setup is perfect as it is. No problem whatsoever.
Your pedals look low to the ground. Do you have any issues with pedal striking?
11-19-20, 12:14 PM
#14
Banned.
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 262
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 139 Post(s)
Liked 136 Times
in
72 Posts
1. What sort of riding do you do: Mostly paved surfaces, 200-400 miles per week, group paceline rides 2x-3x per week, usually 1 or 2 centuries per month.
2. Do you prefer upright, leaning forward or somewhere in between: Leaning forward (mostly). It's nice to sit upright sometimes to relax and enjoy the scenery. Then it's back to leaning forward.
3. If you prefer drop bar or flat bar, explain why. Also, explain your experience with the one you prefer less: Currently on flatbar (if you consider Moloko bars flatbar). I love 'em. I also have Jones bars on a cruiser. Love the Jones' as well. Why? The Moloko and the Jones offer multiple hand positions that are very comfortable. As for drop bars, I really like them on the right bike. I'm currently building an endurance / gravel bike with Deda Zero 100 drop bars.
4. What sort of frame geometry suits your needs best? The only bike I've been measured for prior to purchase is the current endurance / gravel bike currently being built. I found an absolutely awesome local fitter who is a true gem of a resource! He's a former pro racer, college cycling coach, master wheelbuilder and all-around great mechanic. I'm 5'6", 125 lb., 50 years old... 51cm top tube, 36.5cm reach, 52.5 stack, 160mm crank length, 74.5 degree seat tube. I was pleasantly surprised at how comfortable this position was on the hoods and in the drops. Can't wait 'til she's built! For my Surly Ogre I just went to the local dealer, rode a size small, it was instantly comfortable so I bought it. The Ogre currently has about 6,000 miles on it, my longest 1-day ride is 152 miles, and it's one of the most comfortable bikes I've ever ridden.
5. What sort of experiences regarding trial and error did you endure to figure this out? After 2 back surgeries and 10 years entirely off the bike I purchased an Electra Townie in 2019 because it was the only bike I could ride that didn't hurt my back. I rode the Townie for about a year until I got strong enough to get back onto a "regular" bike. I got my Ogre in July of this year. As my strength and flexibility continued to increase I got to the point where it felt possible to get back onto a drop bar bike. I found a local fit speacialist who did a custom fit and then cross-referenced that geometry to existing production bikes. I'll hopefully take possession of my Basso Palta in December.
2. Do you prefer upright, leaning forward or somewhere in between: Leaning forward (mostly). It's nice to sit upright sometimes to relax and enjoy the scenery. Then it's back to leaning forward.
3. If you prefer drop bar or flat bar, explain why. Also, explain your experience with the one you prefer less: Currently on flatbar (if you consider Moloko bars flatbar). I love 'em. I also have Jones bars on a cruiser. Love the Jones' as well. Why? The Moloko and the Jones offer multiple hand positions that are very comfortable. As for drop bars, I really like them on the right bike. I'm currently building an endurance / gravel bike with Deda Zero 100 drop bars.
4. What sort of frame geometry suits your needs best? The only bike I've been measured for prior to purchase is the current endurance / gravel bike currently being built. I found an absolutely awesome local fitter who is a true gem of a resource! He's a former pro racer, college cycling coach, master wheelbuilder and all-around great mechanic. I'm 5'6", 125 lb., 50 years old... 51cm top tube, 36.5cm reach, 52.5 stack, 160mm crank length, 74.5 degree seat tube. I was pleasantly surprised at how comfortable this position was on the hoods and in the drops. Can't wait 'til she's built! For my Surly Ogre I just went to the local dealer, rode a size small, it was instantly comfortable so I bought it. The Ogre currently has about 6,000 miles on it, my longest 1-day ride is 152 miles, and it's one of the most comfortable bikes I've ever ridden.
5. What sort of experiences regarding trial and error did you endure to figure this out? After 2 back surgeries and 10 years entirely off the bike I purchased an Electra Townie in 2019 because it was the only bike I could ride that didn't hurt my back. I rode the Townie for about a year until I got strong enough to get back onto a "regular" bike. I got my Ogre in July of this year. As my strength and flexibility continued to increase I got to the point where it felt possible to get back onto a drop bar bike. I found a local fit speacialist who did a custom fit and then cross-referenced that geometry to existing production bikes. I'll hopefully take possession of my Basso Palta in December.
Last edited by Cyclist0100; 11-19-20 at 12:21 PM.
11-24-20, 07:07 PM
#15
Drip, Drip.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 1,575
Bikes: Trek Verve E bike, Felt Doctrine 4 XC, Opus Horizon Apex 1
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1034 Post(s)
Liked 193 Times
in
163 Posts
1. What sort of riding do you do: Mostly paved surfaces, 200-400 miles per week, group paceline rides 2x-3x per week, usually 1 or 2 centuries per month.
2. Do you prefer upright, leaning forward or somewhere in between: Leaning forward (mostly). It's nice to sit upright sometimes to relax and enjoy the scenery. Then it's back to leaning forward.
3. If you prefer drop bar or flat bar, explain why. Also, explain your experience with the one you prefer less: Currently on flatbar (if you consider Moloko bars flatbar). I love 'em. I also have Jones bars on a cruiser. Love the Jones' as well. Why? The Moloko and the Jones offer multiple hand positions that are very comfortable. As for drop bars, I really like them on the right bike. I'm currently building an endurance / gravel bike with Deda Zero 100 drop bars.
4. What sort of frame geometry suits your needs best? The only bike I've been measured for prior to purchase is the current endurance / gravel bike currently being built. I found an absolutely awesome local fitter who is a true gem of a resource! He's a former pro racer, college cycling coach, master wheelbuilder and all-around great mechanic. I'm 5'6", 125 lb., 50 years old... 51cm top tube, 36.5cm reach, 52.5 stack, 160mm crank length, 74.5 degree seat tube. I was pleasantly surprised at how comfortable this position was on the hoods and in the drops. Can't wait 'til she's built! For my Surly Ogre I just went to the local dealer, rode a size small, it was instantly comfortable so I bought it. The Ogre currently has about 6,000 miles on it, my longest 1-day ride is 152 miles, and it's one of the most comfortable bikes I've ever ridden.
5. What sort of experiences regarding trial and error did you endure to figure this out? After 2 back surgeries and 10 years entirely off the bike I purchased an Electra Townie in 2019 because it was the only bike I could ride that didn't hurt my back. I rode the Townie for about a year until I got strong enough to get back onto a "regular" bike. I got my Ogre in July of this year. As my strength and flexibility continued to increase I got to the point where it felt possible to get back onto a drop bar bike. I found a local fit speacialist who did a custom fit and then cross-referenced that geometry to existing production bikes. I'll hopefully take possession of my Basso Palta in December.
2. Do you prefer upright, leaning forward or somewhere in between: Leaning forward (mostly). It's nice to sit upright sometimes to relax and enjoy the scenery. Then it's back to leaning forward.
3. If you prefer drop bar or flat bar, explain why. Also, explain your experience with the one you prefer less: Currently on flatbar (if you consider Moloko bars flatbar). I love 'em. I also have Jones bars on a cruiser. Love the Jones' as well. Why? The Moloko and the Jones offer multiple hand positions that are very comfortable. As for drop bars, I really like them on the right bike. I'm currently building an endurance / gravel bike with Deda Zero 100 drop bars.
4. What sort of frame geometry suits your needs best? The only bike I've been measured for prior to purchase is the current endurance / gravel bike currently being built. I found an absolutely awesome local fitter who is a true gem of a resource! He's a former pro racer, college cycling coach, master wheelbuilder and all-around great mechanic. I'm 5'6", 125 lb., 50 years old... 51cm top tube, 36.5cm reach, 52.5 stack, 160mm crank length, 74.5 degree seat tube. I was pleasantly surprised at how comfortable this position was on the hoods and in the drops. Can't wait 'til she's built! For my Surly Ogre I just went to the local dealer, rode a size small, it was instantly comfortable so I bought it. The Ogre currently has about 6,000 miles on it, my longest 1-day ride is 152 miles, and it's one of the most comfortable bikes I've ever ridden.
5. What sort of experiences regarding trial and error did you endure to figure this out? After 2 back surgeries and 10 years entirely off the bike I purchased an Electra Townie in 2019 because it was the only bike I could ride that didn't hurt my back. I rode the Townie for about a year until I got strong enough to get back onto a "regular" bike. I got my Ogre in July of this year. As my strength and flexibility continued to increase I got to the point where it felt possible to get back onto a drop bar bike. I found a local fit speacialist who did a custom fit and then cross-referenced that geometry to existing production bikes. I'll hopefully take possession of my Basso Palta in December.
Those dimensions sound like a very comfortable fit. What mm stem are you using?
What is the head tube angle?
11-25-20, 04:53 AM
#16
Banned.
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 262
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 139 Post(s)
Liked 136 Times
in
72 Posts
Stem length for the Palta is still TBD. It will likely be around 80mm (+/- 10mm). We plan to finalize stem length once the frame arrives and the bike is partially built up. I believe the head tube angle is 70 degrees.
I received a status update yesterday and the Palta frame won't be here until just before X-Mas. That would put estimated completion at mid-January 2021.
