Fsa Triple to compact conversion
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Fsa Triple to compact conversion
Does anybody have any advice on converting an FAS SLK 9 speed triple to a compact double?
I am hoping to convert to SRAM wireless 2x11 and I had no idea of the difficulty of finding 130mm and 74 BCD chainrings that might make this possible.
The crankset set we have has 172.5 stoker arms which I would like to keep and they also seem difficult to find on new cranksets.
I am hoping to convert to SRAM wireless 2x11 and I had no idea of the difficulty of finding 130mm and 74 BCD chainrings that might make this possible.
The crankset set we have has 172.5 stoker arms which I would like to keep and they also seem difficult to find on new cranksets.
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You might find them at precision tandem
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Does anybody have any advice on converting an FAS SLK 9 speed triple to a compact double?
I am hoping to convert to SRAM wireless 2x11 and I had no idea of the difficulty of finding 130mm and 74 BCD chainrings that might make this possible.
The crankset set we have has 172.5 stoker arms which I would like to keep and they also seem difficult to find on new cranksets.
I am hoping to convert to SRAM wireless 2x11 and I had no idea of the difficulty of finding 130mm and 74 BCD chainrings that might make this possible.
The crankset set we have has 172.5 stoker arms which I would like to keep and they also seem difficult to find on new cranksets.
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I have been trying to find a 52 or 50/38 that would both attach to the 130 bolt circle.
I think I might have better luck finding those rings than my original idea of mounting a 32 or 34 on the 74 bolt circle and a 48 on the 130.
I think I might have better luck finding those rings than my original idea of mounting a 32 or 34 on the 74 bolt circle and a 48 on the 130.
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House of Tandems in Texas sells 74bcd 34t chainrings
I have 48x34 on the 130/74 middle/inner chainring positions (using the HoT 34t) and 10-42 11 speed cassette, and I operate my Di2 in sequential mode (does not like big-big combo)
Lots of gear range here and I think I could drop to a 30t inner and be ok if I needed to.
For eTap 11 speed, if you run a more traditional 50x34 you will probably need to install a 11x34 cassette in order to stay within the eTap system parameters.
You might be able to push out to a 11x36 cassette. However, even with a roadlink, the 11 speed eTap system does not like bigger cogs such as 11x40.
You will have to purchase an 11 speed 50t chainring as well as a set of chainring spacers in order to get the 2 chainrings closer if you need to for the 11 speed chain to work and not drop in-between the rings..
I have 48x34 on the 130/74 middle/inner chainring positions (using the HoT 34t) and 10-42 11 speed cassette, and I operate my Di2 in sequential mode (does not like big-big combo)
Lots of gear range here and I think I could drop to a 30t inner and be ok if I needed to.
For eTap 11 speed, if you run a more traditional 50x34 you will probably need to install a 11x34 cassette in order to stay within the eTap system parameters.
You might be able to push out to a 11x36 cassette. However, even with a roadlink, the 11 speed eTap system does not like bigger cogs such as 11x40.
You will have to purchase an 11 speed 50t chainring as well as a set of chainring spacers in order to get the 2 chainrings closer if you need to for the 11 speed chain to work and not drop in-between the rings..
#6
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House of Tandems in Texas sells 74bcd 34t chainrings
I have 48x34 on the 130/74 middle/inner chainring positions (using the HoT 34t) and 10-42 11 speed cassette, and I operate my Di2 in sequential mode (does not like big-big combo)
Lots of gear range here and I think I could drop to a 30t inner and be ok if I needed to.
....
I have 48x34 on the 130/74 middle/inner chainring positions (using the HoT 34t) and 10-42 11 speed cassette, and I operate my Di2 in sequential mode (does not like big-big combo)
Lots of gear range here and I think I could drop to a 30t inner and be ok if I needed to.
....
...
For eTap 11 speed, if you run a more traditional 50x34 you will probably need to install a 11x34 cassette in order to stay within the eTap system parameters.
You might be able to push out to a 11x36 cassette. However, even with a roadlink, the 11 speed eTap system does not like bigger cogs such as 11x40.
You will have to purchase an 11 speed 50t chainring as well as a set of chainring spacers in order to get the 2 chainrings closer if you need to for the 11 speed chain to work and not drop in-between the rings..
For eTap 11 speed, if you run a more traditional 50x34 you will probably need to install a 11x34 cassette in order to stay within the eTap system parameters.
You might be able to push out to a 11x36 cassette. However, even with a roadlink, the 11 speed eTap system does not like bigger cogs such as 11x40.
You will have to purchase an 11 speed 50t chainring as well as a set of chainring spacers in order to get the 2 chainrings closer if you need to for the 11 speed chain to work and not drop in-between the rings..
Let us know what you do and what your experiences with the transformation are.
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Msteven and Alcanbrad,
Thanks for the feedback. I have a 34T on order from HoT and a replacement cage from Chinook cycles on order. I plan to use a roadlink also.
Sounds like I should get a back up 34T on order from Precision just in case.
Did you use the same front derailer mount you were using previously with the new SRAM red? I currently am using a Campy racing T on an FSA mount.
I will let you know how it works out.
Thanks for the feedback. I have a 34T on order from HoT and a replacement cage from Chinook cycles on order. I plan to use a roadlink also.
Sounds like I should get a back up 34T on order from Precision just in case.
Did you use the same front derailer mount you were using previously with the new SRAM red? I currently am using a Campy racing T on an FSA mount.
I will let you know how it works out.
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I am working on the same kind of thing and have bought a second hand SLK crankset 110bcd I hope to just change just the right-hand crank so I can fit 50 34 rings.
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We have 2014 Co-Mo Carrera and going from Ultegra 10S triple we did need a new front derailleur mount. I recall when I ordered the upgrade kit from HoT Ric said it was needed. I took a look today and the one we have on the bike now looks like the mounting point is farther from the center-line of the seat tube than the one I took off. I don't know the specifics, others on the forum make be able to clarify, or I am sure Ric at HoT, or ever, Mel at Tandems East could help.
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Bikes: 1984 homemade 531SL road bike; 1988 Ritchey TimberComp; 1997 Nashbar tandem; 1998 Kona Explosif; Specialized Epic, Scott CR1 Pro; Salsa Beargrease; Curtlo custom Tandem, Curtlo custom S3 steel gravel bike.
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A different approach that I think might work is to switch the current stoker triple to an FSA Adventure series modular crank. If your current triple is Mega EXO it should work. Then you can get their direct mount chainrings which replace the modular spider.
I started from the current FSA SL-K tandem crank which came with the modular spider and put on 46/30 rings and a 10T small cog on the rear.
I started from the current FSA SL-K tandem crank which came with the modular spider and put on 46/30 rings and a 10T small cog on the rear.
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I have completed my conversion of 3x9..12/36 to 2x12 11..50. I am very happy with the results.
This is a list of the changes
SRAM AXS Red road front and rear derailleurs
Cycles Chinook AXS Extended derailleur cage
Wolf Tooth Road link
10mm longer B screw with head ground down to clear derailleur body
FSA tandem FD mount with " point " filed down about 1/8"
Mount for inner ring milled down .125 mils
House of Tandems 34 tooth inner ring
FSA 50 tooth mounted at middle ring position
1/4"id x 5/16od x5/8" (filed to fit) sleeve bearing ,placed over chain ring stud at crank arm
1.2 mm spacers on outside of chainring bolts, chainring bolts mounted with allen drive facing in
SRAM PG-1230, 11- to 50-tooth Eagle cassette.
KMC DLC 12 chain
A side benefit which I was not expecting was improved braking. I am using Paul Klampers, front caliper has a short pull arm, the rear has a campagolo arm, they are spaced for Hope ventilated discs. The braking is much improved with the SRAM levers vs the Campy levers.
This is a list of the changes
SRAM AXS Red road front and rear derailleurs
Cycles Chinook AXS Extended derailleur cage
Wolf Tooth Road link
10mm longer B screw with head ground down to clear derailleur body
FSA tandem FD mount with " point " filed down about 1/8"
Mount for inner ring milled down .125 mils
House of Tandems 34 tooth inner ring
FSA 50 tooth mounted at middle ring position
1/4"id x 5/16od x5/8" (filed to fit) sleeve bearing ,placed over chain ring stud at crank arm
1.2 mm spacers on outside of chainring bolts, chainring bolts mounted with allen drive facing in
SRAM PG-1230, 11- to 50-tooth Eagle cassette.
KMC DLC 12 chain
A side benefit which I was not expecting was improved braking. I am using Paul Klampers, front caliper has a short pull arm, the rear has a campagolo arm, they are spaced for Hope ventilated discs. The braking is much improved with the SRAM levers vs the Campy levers.
Last edited by chichi; 05-18-23 at 08:32 AM.
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I recently converted my 2010 Co-motion speedster to a single ring 12 speed option.
11-50 SRAM NX eagle cassette - compatible with my existing freehub; X01 eagle derailleur and chain; Microshift 12 speed SRAM bar end shifter. Timing chainrings are 36 tooth and drive chainring is 48 presently but would be swapped out for something smaller for touring purposes.
This setup allows use of standard double road cranks - same sided timing chain and drive chain is perfect.
Love the smooth shifting and absence of dropped chain concerns. It is also really nice to be able to use standard road cranks with their narrow pedal stance. We have lost a little on the top end but my stoker figures is happy to coast at anything over 30 mph
11-50 SRAM NX eagle cassette - compatible with my existing freehub; X01 eagle derailleur and chain; Microshift 12 speed SRAM bar end shifter. Timing chainrings are 36 tooth and drive chainring is 48 presently but would be swapped out for something smaller for touring purposes.
This setup allows use of standard double road cranks - same sided timing chain and drive chain is perfect.
Love the smooth shifting and absence of dropped chain concerns. It is also really nice to be able to use standard road cranks with their narrow pedal stance. We have lost a little on the top end but my stoker figures is happy to coast at anything over 30 mph