3 piece crank vs 1 piece crank... which is better? Why?
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3 piece crank vs 1 piece crank... which is better? Why?
Ok, I finally made my mind up on a bike. I am new to this so I want a good entry-level bike. I settled with the Haro F3 however a friend of mine told me that a 3 piece crank is better than a 1 piece crank. He never told me why, so can someone answer this question for me.
I really don't want to spend more than $300 on a bike. The Haro F3 is $230, but if a bike with 3 piece crank is really a whole lot better than a bike with 1 piece crank. Then I'll get the F5 for $370.
Also, are there any other bikes under $300 that I should consider looking at before buying the F3?
-Thanks
I really don't want to spend more than $300 on a bike. The Haro F3 is $230, but if a bike with 3 piece crank is really a whole lot better than a bike with 1 piece crank. Then I'll get the F5 for $370.
Also, are there any other bikes under $300 that I should consider looking at before buying the F3?
-Thanks
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Well a three-piece crank is a lot stronger than one piece. I have found that a one piece has a tendency to spin on you while doing tricks. A three piece will not. A three piece has sealed bearings (or it should) which means smoother peddling and less mechanical trouble. Get the three piece its worth the extra money. You will end up replacing your 1 piece anyway.
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Three piece cranks are stronger than 1 piece because of material usage amount of it, the spindles that accompany them are made stronger, as are the bearings and races. It is mainly about the material used. Some 1 piece use hi-ten steel some use cro-mo. Some companies like Profile and Odyssey use 4130 cro-mo that is cold forged or heat treated for strength. Profile and Odyssey both make a crank that carries a limited lifetime warranty on it. You will never ever se that on a 1 piece crank.
If you are going to be doing any jumping or street tricks then it would be alot easier for you to use a 3 piece as you will be replacing 1 piece cranks way to often not to mention possible injury due to a 1 piece crank breaking or bending on a landing and creating a ugly injury.
If you are going to be doing any jumping or street tricks then it would be alot easier for you to use a 3 piece as you will be replacing 1 piece cranks way to often not to mention possible injury due to a 1 piece crank breaking or bending on a landing and creating a ugly injury.
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keep in mind that if you purchase a low end/low cost three piece crankset you may as well throw your cash in the garbage.
ride the one piece cranks until you can afford decent 3 piece.
profiles are like $135.00 and hold up great.
there are plenty of junk 3 piece. you get what you pay for.
ride the one piece cranks until you can afford decent 3 piece.
profiles are like $135.00 and hold up great.
there are plenty of junk 3 piece. you get what you pay for.
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Yeah, as all the other people said, GET THE 3 PC CRANKS!! They are alot stronger and more reliable. You will have smoother rides and your 3 pc cranks wont spin while doing tricks. This will add a whole new look to...riding your bike!!
Hope This Helps
Hope This Helps
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I understand the whole concept "You get what you pay for" but considering I'm a beginner, I don't see the sense investing $150 in a crank just yet. With that in mind, what would you recommend, a cheap 1 pc crank, or a cheap 3 pc crank?
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Never go "cheap" you can go inexpensive but never "cheap." Having said that 3 piece is always better than one. Redline makes a couple of inexpensive 3 piece cranks as does FSA. I carry both and are satisfied with both.
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wehn it comes to 3 pice cranks you have to keep the bolts tite or you will strip out the arms . if you go with the onepice you are good but if you brake an arm you have to buy a hole new one unlike that 3 pice i would go with the 3 pice
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Originally Posted by phusion
I understand the whole concept "You get what you pay for" but considering I'm a beginner, I don't see the sense investing $150 in a crank just yet. With that in mind, what would you recommend, a cheap 1 pc crank, or a cheap 3 pc crank?
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ride the 1pc till it breaks.
3pc aren't much special, its just easier to replace the parts & wat hav u.
3pc aren't much special, its just easier to replace the parts & wat hav u.
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Originally Posted by JMC
ride the 1pc till it breaks.
3pc aren't much special, its just easier to replace the parts & wat hav u.
3pc aren't much special, its just easier to replace the parts & wat hav u.
they spin better, they don't get loose as often, some are warrantied,and they are lighter
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1pc
i see all the bikes have them now, but I have a one piece sugino cro-mo crank for
ramp, ground, racing, freestyle, i never had an issue with it,
i 'd say ride it (the one pc) til you break it, unless you like spending money.
-the crank is on my 1984 haro sport, and before that was on my patterson bmx. those cranks are one of the few things that never was replaced. i still own the bike and ride it.
ramp, ground, racing, freestyle, i never had an issue with it,
i 'd say ride it (the one pc) til you break it, unless you like spending money.
-the crank is on my 1984 haro sport, and before that was on my patterson bmx. those cranks are one of the few things that never was replaced. i still own the bike and ride it.
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I'm not a big fan of Stolens but a good bike for under 300 is the Stolen Pinch at 300 even or the Stolen Riot for a little under 300.... or the DKs like the Siklon, Havok, Reaction, or Cygnus 20in..... but it all depends on what size top tube you want... or look at the Subrosa Salvador Dirt or the Subrosa Tiro... or Black Eye NFG, Drifter, De La Cruz... or The 2-Hip Forcedown..... Look at Danscomp.com for bikes too.
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instead of the F5, get the DK Helio. 20 clams cheaper
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Why did somebody bump a 5 year old thread?
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sorry about bumping this, i was searching for info on cranks, hit the link in the search, and registered just to check out this thread...i didn't expect or realize i was bumping an old thread, apologies.
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dude i didnt look at the dates either hahahahahahahahahahaha
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I've got a feeling he found a crankset sometime in the 14 years since he originally asked the question, @Twister6405.
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I've got a feeling he found a crankset sometime in the 14 years since he originally asked the question, @Twister6405.
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My take on this:
One-piece cranks are generally heavier, easier to bend (there are some Cr-Mo and TUBULAR BMX versions that are pretty darned tough, though) but cheaper, require less maintenance, and definitely have more of an old-school vibe. Your pedal selection is definitely more limited on one-piece cranks (1/2" pedal) unless you want to use old-school cruiser-style pedals. If you're building a bike with a small, threaded bottom bracket, you'll be hard-pressed to find a one-piece crank that will pass through the shell, or a bottom bracket to mount it in there.
Three-piece cranks are generally lighter, stronger, and have the widest assortment of pedal types (9/16") and bottom bracket applications available to them. In the case you DO damage a crank arm, replacements are often available without purchasing a whole new crankset. They don't look nearly as old-school as a one-piece crank, unless you're using inferior cotter key cranks like on old Raleighs, which usually get loose and bend/damage more easily. Shims and varied crank spindle widths are available if you need to adapt a wide, multi-speed crankset to a narrower, single-speed frame. Three piece cranks are very strong AS LONG AS YOU KEEP THE ARMS TIGHT. Allowing them to loosen can quickly wear the surfaces where they mate to the spindle, allowing them to wobble and "click".
Ethan Stark
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Online Trader & Bike lover
One-piece cranks are generally heavier, easier to bend (there are some Cr-Mo and TUBULAR BMX versions that are pretty darned tough, though) but cheaper, require less maintenance, and definitely have more of an old-school vibe. Your pedal selection is definitely more limited on one-piece cranks (1/2" pedal) unless you want to use old-school cruiser-style pedals. If you're building a bike with a small, threaded bottom bracket, you'll be hard-pressed to find a one-piece crank that will pass through the shell, or a bottom bracket to mount it in there.
Three-piece cranks are generally lighter, stronger, and have the widest assortment of pedal types (9/16") and bottom bracket applications available to them. In the case you DO damage a crank arm, replacements are often available without purchasing a whole new crankset. They don't look nearly as old-school as a one-piece crank, unless you're using inferior cotter key cranks like on old Raleighs, which usually get loose and bend/damage more easily. Shims and varied crank spindle widths are available if you need to adapt a wide, multi-speed crankset to a narrower, single-speed frame. Three piece cranks are very strong AS LONG AS YOU KEEP THE ARMS TIGHT. Allowing them to loosen can quickly wear the surfaces where they mate to the spindle, allowing them to wobble and "click".
Ethan Stark
https://clouddesktoponline.com/
Online Trader & Bike lover
#25
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Yes, the Tubular one piece cranks were awfully nice, IDK if theyre made today , market is for lower cost these days.