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First real road bike for 18th Bday

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Old 01-23-06, 01:15 PM
  #26  
loaf56
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I have a friend who has the trek 1000. Don't know much, I just know that she is kicking herself for not getting a better bike, like the 1200. She says it's worth the money....
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Old 01-23-06, 01:21 PM
  #27  
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Also, im curious (I can't find this one the trek site), how much does the trek 1200 weigh. My current road bike is quite heavy, and I assume the technology makes these bikes super light. What is considered good for a road bike, 20lb?
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Old 01-23-06, 01:24 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by smoaky
Thanks everyone for the responses. I need some time to sift through all the info, but if anyone has more suggestions they are more than welcome. Just at this moment, the trek 1200 seems like a good compromise. A lot of you say I should avoid the trek 1000 because I won't be able to upgrade it. What exactly would I be missing out on?
Not missing out, per se. A lot of people (myself included) do not like the Sora thumb shifters, and Sora is 8 speed. Let's say you don't like your shifters or derailleurs. If you wanted to upgrade to Tiagra, which is an STI system like the other Shimano components, you'd have to go to 9-speed, which involves not only new shifters and derailleurs, but also a new cassette and chain. But if you started off with Tiagra components and wanted to move up, you'd only have to replace that individual componentry.

When I was looking for bikes not long ago, I like the 1200 better than 1000. It seemed...sleeker. The shifting also seemed crisper, less clunky. I think the extra moolah would be a better investment in the long run.
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Old 01-23-06, 01:24 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by smoaky
Also, im curious (I can't find this one the trek site), how much does the trek 1200 weigh. My current road bike is quite heavy, and I assume the technology makes these bikes super light. What is considered good for a road bike, 20lb?
Under 20lbs is considered pretty good...I don't know for sure but I would guess the 1200 is right around 20lbs-22lbs without pedals, cages, etc. If you have a heavy bike it will feel plenty light.
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Old 01-23-06, 01:33 PM
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so the frontrunner at this point is the 1200. thanks for the explanation on the upgrades nubie. Again, I want this to be a bike I will ride for atleast 10 years (unless i get hit by a mack truck or something ), so what exactly is the difference between say the 1200 and the 1500 - I compared all three, https://www.trekbikes.com/bikes/2004/...&bike3=1413000

I see a couple differences, but what exactly would those entail? are they worth the extra 300 bucks?
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Old 01-23-06, 01:35 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by loaf56
Where did you get the 2006 Trek 1500 for less than $1000? I am about to buy one, and I can't find it for less than $1049. I would like to get it for less. By the way, I have been looking around, and the Trek 1500 is good bang for the buck. Also, be looking at the Specialized Allez Elite....
I actually went in with teh intent of buying a 2005 1500 or 2100 that they had advertised. They did not have them in my size so they gave me a pretty good pric eon the 2006 1500. I got it from these guys here in Massachusetts:

https://www.landrys.com/
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Old 01-23-06, 01:44 PM
  #32  
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Your link was to 2004 bikes. the Current price delta between the 1200 and the 1500 per the Trek site is $240. For that you get the next model up in the shifters, brakes and derailleurs and you get wheels that look cooler...debateable as to weather they (the wheels) are better or not.
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Old 01-23-06, 01:48 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by smoaky
so the frontrunner at this point is the 1200. thanks for the explanation on the upgrades nubie. Again, I want this to be a bike I will ride for atleast 10 years (unless i get hit by a mack truck or something ), so what exactly is the difference between say the 1200 and the 1500 - I compared all three, https://www.trekbikes.com/bikes/2004/...&bike3=1413000

I see a couple differences, but what exactly would those entail? are they worth the extra 300 bucks?
Tip: try to avoid Mack trucks

The gap between the 1200 and 1500 is not as great as the one between the 1000 and 1200. Both are 9-speed, both have the same Tiagra front derailleur. The benefit of the 1500 is a better rear derailleur and better shifters. By better, I mean lighter and perhaps more durable, with better quality materials. Some folks say that 105 components are the "sweet spot" of Shimano stuff - they're affordable and still have the more advanced technology, but in my experience Tiagra is excellent for a beginner, and will hold you in good stead.

Are they worth the extra $300? Depends on who's paying. You'll get lighter, crisper shifting. Will you notice their absence? Probably not.
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Old 01-23-06, 02:11 PM
  #34  
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Well that doesn't seem like its really worth it. I'm not going to be racing or anything, and "lighter, crisper shifting" isn't worth that much. Thanks for explaining what those differences mean. And yes, I will avoid mack trucks, but I can't say ill avoid getting doored (i am a car door magnet, people have opened doors on me like 7-8 times.)
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Old 01-23-06, 02:14 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by smoaky
Well that doesn't seem like its really worth it. I'm not going to be racing or anything, and "lighter, crisper shifting" isn't worth that much. Thanks for explaining what those differences mean. And yes, I will avoid mack trucks, but I can't say ill avoid getting doored (i am a car door magnet, people have opened doors on me like 7-8 times.)

No problem.

Just remember, no matter which one you get, ride the hell out of it. It'll be a great bike either way.

Happy birthday!
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Old 01-23-06, 02:51 PM
  #36  
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A Giant OCR2. There is a 2005 at my LBS for 599 that I have been tempted by.
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Old 01-23-06, 03:19 PM
  #37  
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I have a Giant OCR3 that I bought last spring for $540. It is a Sora bike and I have had no problem with the Sora components at all. In fact, since I ride more often on the hoods than in the drops, I actually like the thumb shifter. I haven't found the need for more than 24 gears either, as I usually only use 7-8 of then anyway. In fact, if the bike fairy stole my small chainring in the middle of the night, I wouldn't miss it at all! If I lived in Colorado, that probably wouldn't be the case though. Maybe since I am not racing I don't see the advantage of having more gears.

Have you considered buying something in the $600-$800 range and then a second bike for commuting? I was thinking something simpler, maybe with a Nexus hub or similar. Then you would have a bike to get around on and another for fun rides or longer distances. The suggestion of using your fathers old bike makes a lot of sense too. Now having two bikes could cause problems if you are living on campus and have limited storage space.
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Old 01-23-06, 03:50 PM
  #38  
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Somebody has to say it:

https://bikesdirect.com/products/moto...p06_sl_pre.htm
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Old 01-23-06, 04:17 PM
  #39  
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You should get a Felt. F80 is my suggestion. I ride one, and couldn't be happier with it!
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Old 01-23-06, 04:28 PM
  #40  
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While you're at it check out the Jamis Ventura Elite. You may not have heard of Jamis but they make greak bikes for great prices. And their paint jobs are killer.
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Old 01-23-06, 04:44 PM
  #41  
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Felt is a little pricey for my taste. They're awesome bikes, but a little out of my price range.

Jamis on the other hand...they make some quality bikes, and have a great selection of steel frames. My next bike will be a steel Jamis.
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Old 01-23-06, 04:47 PM
  #42  
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I'm 17, and bought my 2004 Giant OCR 2 about 10 months ago. I paid 600 bucks for it, its my first road bike... saved for about a year and a half for it. I don't know that much about bikes in general, I'm pretty new to it, but my bike rides a lot better than anything else I've ever ridden. I'm also 5'11", 160 lbs, and I got the bike for cross training (I run track) but as it turns out, I like biking more than running. I like the OCR 2 a lot, but in terms of looks, I wouldn't get a composite geometry frame again... traditional top tubes look a lot cooler imo. Don't know if that affects your decision, but thats the only thing that I regret.
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Old 01-24-06, 11:10 AM
  #43  
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Update - I visited 2 bike shops today. I went into both and started asking about the trek 1200. The first store I went to had very few bicycles, but the woman seemed pretty knowledgable. She agreed that the 1000 to 1200 is a bigger step up than the 1200 to the 1500. She also suggested the lemond "reno", because it might fit my "body type". I didn't really ask more about that (I was wearing a giant coat, so I dont know how she could know what body type i had). Of the few bikes they had at the store they had a 2005 trek 1500 and a 2006 model. The 2005 was 1000$ and the 2006 was 1500$. They 2006 was only slightly better than the 2005, and the differences really wouldn't affect me unless I was a serious racer. So, now I know I should look for last year or the year before's models.

The second store I went to had more bikes, but the guy I talked to seemed to be more into mountain biking. I told him that I liked the 1200 and he basically said what the woman said at the other store was wrong. He said the 1200 was a mix and match and sort of inbetween a level of parts. I mentioned the 1500 i saw for 1000 and he suggested the raleigh supercourse because the components were mostly 105s and Ultegra. I just looked up the supercourse and it seemed like a really good bike, basically comprable to the trek 1500. At the scond store I went to they were selling the 2005 model for 900 on sale from 1000.

I went to the Shimano website and read up on the different parts. I'm guessing Im in the market for the 105 set of components, which is what the guy at the second store said I should look for. I'm leaning away from trek because It seems like I can get the same kind of bike for much less money. What do you guys think. This weekend I'm going to go down to a much larger bike store and probably buy my bike then. Thanks.
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Old 01-24-06, 11:31 AM
  #44  
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Don't know much about today's Raleighs, but I have a feeling that they, like most other mid-lower end bikes all come from the same basic place. One thing to ask about and consider is how well the company is going to back up the bikes they sell. Someone above posted a link to a bikesdirect motobacane. For the money - lots of bike. Have a problem - 90% chance you're out of luck. On the flip side there have been tons of people here stating that Trek has been very very prompt about replacing frames (and even upgrading them) when problems surface. The Lemond that the first shop pointed you to is made by Trek, often with slightly longer top tubes than your standard Trek line. If you have a tall torso they'll likely fit you well. Me, I'm all legs so while I like the Lemond look, they don't fit me well.

Also, the second guy at the shop telling you that the 1200 is a mixed bag - while this is true, it's not all a bad thing. For what it's worth, the 1500 appears to be just as much mixed. That is - mostly 105 with an Ultegra Rear Derailleur on the 1500 vs mostly Tiagra on the 1200 with the 105 in back. Brakes are likely the same (Trekbikes.com doesn't specify which brakes are on either one) as well. From what I've learned so far, the line of front derailleurs from Tiagra through Ultegra are very simular, so don't let a better front derailleur perswade you into a bike $200 more. Brakes on the other hand is one place that I would look for differences. Wheels, Brake levers / brakes and then rear derailleur/crank are the order that I personally look at when looking at two different bikes. oh - and if you go with a Trek, realize you'll likely hate the stock saddle - so allow a bit of cash in the near if not immediate future to change that out. Hope this helps a bit.
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Old 01-24-06, 11:46 AM
  #45  
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thanks cuda2k. I don't mind the mixing in the 1500 because its with 105 and ultegra, which I get the impression are superior parts, both of them.

One very important thing that I havn't mentioned is that I will be riding this, atleast a little, on manhattan streets. My ride to school is 90% on a great bike bath on the hudson, but I have to ride over about 15 city blocks once I get off, and from last year those streets were terrible. Potholes everywhere. My dad suggested I look at "commuter bikes", like the trek portland, but I really, really don't want something that will limit me to the city. I asked the guy at the second bike store about possibly getting a second set of wheels, perhaps wider ones, but he said its not good to replace parts individually, because you would then have new wheels but old drive train and its better for the parts to age together.

But anyway, I'm not so much worried about the parts aging and whatnot, but I am fairly concerned with these skinny road wheels getting bent from riding on the street. Even if I try really hard to avoid potholes, I guarantee I will hit one once in a while, or even go over a curb.. Looking at the bikes in the bike store, the wheels seemed so fragile. So, is it worth it to look into these "commuter bikes" and what exactly is taken away from them in terms of speed etc. Thanks again everyone for their help.
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Old 01-24-06, 11:51 AM
  #46  
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Just FYI, the brakes on the 1000 and 1200 (and 1500, I think) are generic in-house brand. That's not to say they don't work, though.
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Old 01-24-06, 01:03 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by smoaky
thanks cuda2k. I don't mind the mixing in the 1500 because its with 105 and ultegra, which I get the impression are superior parts, both of them.

One very important thing that I havn't mentioned is that I will be riding this, atleast a little, on manhattan streets. My ride to school is 90% on a great bike bath on the hudson, but I have to ride over about 15 city blocks once I get off, and from last year those streets were terrible. Potholes everywhere. My dad suggested I look at "commuter bikes", like the trek portland, but I really, really don't want something that will limit me to the city. I asked the guy at the second bike store about possibly getting a second set of wheels, perhaps wider ones, but he said its not good to replace parts individually, because you would then have new wheels but old drive train and its better for the parts to age together.

But anyway, I'm not so much worried about the parts aging and whatnot, but I am fairly concerned with these skinny road wheels getting bent from riding on the street. Even if I try really hard to avoid potholes, I guarantee I will hit one once in a while, or even go over a curb.. Looking at the bikes in the bike store, the wheels seemed so fragile. So, is it worth it to look into these "commuter bikes" and what exactly is taken away from them in terms of speed etc. Thanks again everyone for their help.
Huh? What a bunch of crap that is, a backup wheel set is a very good idea if you can afford it. That way you have a spare if you ever break a spoke or taco a wheel in a wreck. My LBS is currently building me a backup set. I don't get that argument at all. Even if you get a Sora equipped bike you can get say an Ultegra/Open Pro wheel set and while the Sora and Ultegra lines are a few levels apart the wheels will work with the Sora drivetrain no problem.

The only parts I can see that you would want to wear together would be the chain and the cassette...and you want to change the chain before it affects the cassette and LONG before it affects the chain rings. Let the parts age together? Huh?
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Old 01-24-06, 02:44 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Herbsinator
Yeah - I was thinking the same thing. I have 1 moto le champ sl and have been thinking about purchasing another. They're a screaming deal. Dude the wheelset alone on it is $500 easy. The only thing is like any internet purchase you can't try it before you buy, and you have to assemble it or have someone assemble it for you. Still lotta bike for the money though.

Here's my 2005:

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Old 01-24-06, 03:20 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Grasschopper
Huh? What a bunch of crap that is, a backup wheel set is a very good idea if you can afford it. That way you have a spare if you ever break a spoke or taco a wheel in a wreck. My LBS is currently building me a backup set. I don't get that argument at all. Even if you get a Sora equipped bike you can get say an Ultegra/Open Pro wheel set and while the Sora and Ultegra lines are a few levels apart the wheels will work with the Sora drivetrain no problem.

The only parts I can see that you would want to wear together would be the chain and the cassette...and you want to change the chain before it affects the cassette and LONG before it affects the chain rings. Let the parts age together? Huh?

yea, i was kind of waiting for someone to say that was bs. I don't know much about what he was saying, but it didn't seem to make much sense. So, in light of that, what kind of damage can i expect to ride this 40 or so blocks a day on regular manhattan street. Would it be insanity to ride a 900$ bike.. i.e. would the wheels bend or something? The wheels and tires are much skinnier than the ones on my current road bike, so im a bit wary. I'd love to use those tires on the open road but in the city.. anyway, any suggestions?
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Old 01-24-06, 03:35 PM
  #50  
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If the streets are as bad as you say, have you considered a mountain bike? I know my mountain bike is great for getting around town, and our streets are pretty good.
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