Cold setting twice
#1
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Cold setting twice
Hey,
I have a frame that was originally 126mm that I wanted to put 120mm wheels in. So I cold set it to fit. I tried using a clamp to incrementally pull the stays together but it was requiring far more movement than I was comfortable with so I ended up using brute force to get them set (squeezed between my knees at the drop outs). I did try aligning the drop outs but they didn't seem to be out by very much and no matter how much pulling I did with an adjustable wrench, they didn't seem like they wanted to go anywhere. Throughout the process I checked frame alignment with a string pulled round the head tube and it seemed to remain pretty much spot on.
So now the novelty of this wheelset has worn off, and I'm thinking it would be great if the frame was 126 again. Would this cause issues if I tried to pull the stays back? I know flexing steel back and forth can be detrimental but how many times can you get away with?
Thanks!
I have a frame that was originally 126mm that I wanted to put 120mm wheels in. So I cold set it to fit. I tried using a clamp to incrementally pull the stays together but it was requiring far more movement than I was comfortable with so I ended up using brute force to get them set (squeezed between my knees at the drop outs). I did try aligning the drop outs but they didn't seem to be out by very much and no matter how much pulling I did with an adjustable wrench, they didn't seem like they wanted to go anywhere. Throughout the process I checked frame alignment with a string pulled round the head tube and it seemed to remain pretty much spot on.
So now the novelty of this wheelset has worn off, and I'm thinking it would be great if the frame was 126 again. Would this cause issues if I tried to pull the stays back? I know flexing steel back and forth can be detrimental but how many times can you get away with?
Thanks!
#2
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I've set and reset dropout spacing on a couple different frames over the years with no obvious ill effects, in one case going from 120 to 130 and back again.
Brent
Brent
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Just make sure you are not trying to cold set a frame with heat treated tubes like Reynolds 753.....
Despite some people saying they have been successful in cold setting such frames, the majority who tried to do so found it impossible, as the frames just sprung right back to it's original rear spacing every time they tried to do so.
Despite some people saying they have been successful in cold setting such frames, the majority who tried to do so found it impossible, as the frames just sprung right back to it's original rear spacing every time they tried to do so.
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Next time you have the urge to use a 5-speed 120ish mm wheel in your 126mm-spaced bike, add a few mm of spacers on the NDS and re-dish to make up some of the difference.
#5
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You know what's hilarious about this, is that I asked the builder to space these wheels to 126 originally, but they evidently forgot. I was in a hurry to get riding the bike and so just cold set the frame. In hindsight, I wish I'd have waited to few days to get some spacers.
Sounds like I'm good to go though.
Thanks guys!
#6
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Just curious - how old is that frame? If you had to ask the builder for 126 spacing and he did 120, I'm thinking at least 35 yr. old if not more.
#7
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Ah! In that case, a few mm of spacers on each side would be perfect. My fixed-gear is a 126mm bike with a regular 120mm "track" hub that has 3mm of spacers added behind each locknut. 8800 miles, so far so good.
#9
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Reset this frame today. Tried bracing at the brake bridge but couldn't get a clamp to stay put very well.
It was as much a workout as I remembered (doing it by hand since I don't trust myself using a 2x4). I'd have liked to hit 127 or 128 for the sake of flexibility but I stopped right at 126 because I was tired and sore.
Alignment stayed dead on it looks like. Hopefully it doesn't asplode.
Thanks all.
It was as much a workout as I remembered (doing it by hand since I don't trust myself using a 2x4). I'd have liked to hit 127 or 128 for the sake of flexibility but I stopped right at 126 because I was tired and sore.
Alignment stayed dead on it looks like. Hopefully it doesn't asplode.
Thanks all.
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Just make sure you are not trying to cold set a frame with heat treated tubes like Reynolds 753.....
Despite some people saying they have been successful in cold setting such frames, the majority who tried to do so found it impossible, as the frames just sprung right back to it's original rear spacing every time they tried to do so.
Despite some people saying they have been successful in cold setting such frames, the majority who tried to do so found it impossible, as the frames just sprung right back to it's original rear spacing every time they tried to do so.
As I had read it can't be set I tried the fork myself and indeed I could get them straight but twice as I mounted the bike they would spring back where they had been. Took the frame to Gilmour and on his Marchetti frame table and Lange fork table he got the frame perfect. I have 1,000s of miles on it and can ride around the block w/o hands.
I just don't want these nice frames get scraped out when a true craftsman can get them back on the road (in my case $80).
I have read the Reynolds engineers published warnings that cold setting can't be done on 753r. I know engineers, I are one, and we have a lot to learn for craftsmen.
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#13
Procrastinateur supreme
Huh. I've had two bike shops that declined my asking them to spread my 531 from 120 to 130. Guess I have to talk to a frame builder to get a straight answer.
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Although, a 126 to 130mm spread is more common, I think 10mm wouldn't be out of the question, as long as it is done properly/carefully..... Just make sure they follow up with proper alignment of the dropout faces....
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Shrinkers, I trust the frame you have coldset is steel. I looked up your Trek 1200 and 1400 and they both appear to be aluminum. I hope you are not talking about coldsettng those frames. Aluminum does not take well to coldsetting. A frame of 531 or 1970s, 80s Columbus can be coldset and probably several times without issue. What we do not know is how careful the builder of the frame was with heat or how many times/how hard he had to coldset it to bring it to sellable alignment.
The good thing is that if the frame does fail from being coldset too often, the failure will be no big deal outside being a ride/frame ender. Highly unlikely you will get hurt. I broke a Peugeot UO-8 chainstay just behind the gusset and just happened to notice when I looked down that something was wrong. The chainstay was swinging in the breeze. Rode it 2 mile home without issue.
Ben
The good thing is that if the frame does fail from being coldset too often, the failure will be no big deal outside being a ride/frame ender. Highly unlikely you will get hurt. I broke a Peugeot UO-8 chainstay just behind the gusset and just happened to notice when I looked down that something was wrong. The chainstay was swinging in the breeze. Rode it 2 mile home without issue.
Ben
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My Mooney came (at my request) 120. Had it spread to 126 20 years ago. I have been debating going to 130 but have held off. Glad I did. Last year I set it up fix gear with a Miche Pista fix-fix flip-flop hub dished 4mm so I can run 3 cogs (with a "dingle") on three separate chainlines. Having the space from 126 made it easy. I probably could have managed 130 but I really didn't need another hoop to jump through! (Custom "dingle", custom chainring bolts, a Phil Wood BB that made dialing in the exact chainlines a piece of cake and lots of computer/CAD time to find an approach that would work.)
Ben
#18
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Another quick question to add to this thread, but first a clarification:
79, this frame is steel. I definitely wouldn't try and cold set aluminum, I just slid my 130 hub into my 126 frame by springing it with my thumbs. Worked great .
After re-setting my frame, I checked it with a string for alignment and it measure totally dead nuts on (which it always has). I got my wheels and put them in the frame and got it centered in the chainstays using my dropout alignment screws and it looks completely straight with my seat tube.
However, if I measure at the seat stays, my drive side stay is about 2mm closer than the non-drive side. Brake lines up fine, and everything looks good except for when I put a ruler to it. Could this be due to how the frame was built? Or could it be from my alignment even though it string-tests fine? The frame is a Tenax Schwinn if that matters.
79, this frame is steel. I definitely wouldn't try and cold set aluminum, I just slid my 130 hub into my 126 frame by springing it with my thumbs. Worked great .
After re-setting my frame, I checked it with a string for alignment and it measure totally dead nuts on (which it always has). I got my wheels and put them in the frame and got it centered in the chainstays using my dropout alignment screws and it looks completely straight with my seat tube.
However, if I measure at the seat stays, my drive side stay is about 2mm closer than the non-drive side. Brake lines up fine, and everything looks good except for when I put a ruler to it. Could this be due to how the frame was built? Or could it be from my alignment even though it string-tests fine? The frame is a Tenax Schwinn if that matters.
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After re-setting my frame, I checked it with a string for alignment and it measure totally dead nuts on (which it always has). I got my wheels and put them in the frame and got it centered in the chainstays using my dropout alignment screws and it looks completely straight with my seat tube.
However, if I measure at the seat stays, my drive side stay is about 2mm closer than the non-drive side. Brake lines up fine, and everything looks good except for when I put a ruler to it. Could this be due to how the frame was built? Or could it be from my alignment even though it string-tests fine? The frame is a Tenax Schwinn if that matters.
After re-setting my frame, I checked it with a string for alignment and it measure totally dead nuts on (which it always has). I got my wheels and put them in the frame and got it centered in the chainstays using my dropout alignment screws and it looks completely straight with my seat tube.
However, if I measure at the seat stays, my drive side stay is about 2mm closer than the non-drive side. Brake lines up fine, and everything looks good except for when I put a ruler to it. Could this be due to how the frame was built? Or could it be from my alignment even though it string-tests fine? The frame is a Tenax Schwinn if that matters.
Brent