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Help with ID of Braze Ons on Seat Stays

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Old 09-04-19, 07:11 PM
  #26  
cqlink 
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Originally Posted by cudak888
I know the other forum members have convinced you that removing the paint around the lugs is a bad idea, but just in case anyone else reads this in future and has a similar idea:

I have seen a few CyclArt painted frames and own a Bottecchia painted by them with chrome lugs. I would not ever dare to guess that there's still chrome under there. Even if there is, I can absolutely guarantee that a shop with a reputation like CyclArt would have heavily scuffed any remaining chrome with sandpaper to ensure the paint would stick. In fact, they probably would have gone the extra mile of having it removed - though it's a really nasty and hazardous chore.

Before trying such a thing, I'd trade the frame for another Paramount that does have chrome lugs. Paramounts (and '81-83 Superiors, like the one below) can look stunning in an understated way, and since yours has been modified for touring, it'll look phenomenal built up in full regalia. Even without chrome lugs; perhaps better for it if you plan on fenders:




-Kurt
Beautiful bike. Something for me to shoot for
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Old 09-04-19, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by cqlink
Beautiful bike. Something for me to shoot for
As is yours already. Too bad we're not nearby, we could host a Dual Red Paramount Tour

-Kurt
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Old 09-04-19, 08:17 PM
  #28  
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this thread got me all excited about selling my Mafac tandem cantilevers. Nope, not selling them for $100, which seems to be the going price
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Old 09-12-19, 05:03 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by bentaxle
First, all the hardware on the clamp-on shifters that you bought should work with the brazed on bosses. You just have the clamp-on band that would be surplus. So you could either just save or sell the clamp-on band. You don't need to look for new levers or the the rest of that hardware (screws, washers, etc.)

On the lugs, be sure that the lugs really are chromed before you remove the paint. Even if the frame originally came with chromed lugs, if the chrome was in bad shape (or even if not), it may have been removed before painting since paint sticks better to un-chromed steel. It may be there still, but maybe not.

And you can mask the paint and apply stripper to the lug's paint only. If it's Imron, it might be hard to get the stripper to remove Imron, but the epoxy-type strippers should work, if slowly.
If I may, you're right, the shifters fit the bosses brazed onto the frame but I'm not sure how the stops which appear to be (at least) tightly pressed fit, could be removed from the Campy bolt-on bracket and placed on the frame?

I gently tried to remove that part from the entire clamp but it doesn't appear to be going anywhere without a saw or grinder.

As it stands, the shifters swing freely, even with the screw all the way down. I can find some spacers to allow the screw and the Campy retainer to join but without those stops, not sure how to proceed.

Thanks
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Old 09-12-19, 05:44 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by cqlink
If I may, you're right, the shifters fit the bosses brazed onto the frame but I'm not sure how the stops which appear to be (at least) tightly pressed fit, could be removed from the Campy bolt-on bracket and placed on the frame?

I gently tried to remove that part from the entire clamp but it doesn't appear to be going anywhere without a saw or grinder.

As it stands, the shifters swing freely, even with the screw all the way down. I can find some spacers to allow the screw and the Campy retainer to join but without those stops, not sure how to proceed.

Thanks
Yeah, I suspected that.

I believe it is possible to remove the stops, destroying the clamp in the process, but I've never done it. I made suitable stops out of 1/8” aluminum that worked fine but they did have a certain hand made look.
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Old 09-12-19, 06:05 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by cqlink
If I may, you're right, the shifters fit the bosses brazed onto the frame but I'm not sure how the stops which appear to be (at least) tightly pressed fit, could be removed from the Campy bolt-on bracket and placed on the frame?
Is this just to transfer over the hardware so you can use your Campag shifters with braze-on hardware?

If so, I'd gladly trade you the clamp for a pair of the Campagnolo NR/SR braze-on stops you'll need.

-Kurt
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Old 09-12-19, 06:07 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by cudak888
Is this just to transfer over the hardware so you can use your Campag shifters with braze-on hardware?

If so, I'd gladly trade you the clamp for a pair of the Campagnolo NR/SR braze-on stops you'll need.

-Kurt
Yes. Just want to use the shifters but will need the stops, screws, spacers, etc. If you have those parts, let's trade. The clamp on shifters I have (and will send you) will have all the aforementioned parts (complete assy.) when I send it.

PM sent.

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Old 09-12-19, 06:08 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by cqlink
Yes. Just want to use the shifters. Let's trade. PM sent.


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Old 09-12-19, 06:20 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by cudak888


-Kurt
You got it. PM sent. Shoot me an address.
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Old 09-13-19, 06:11 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by cqlink
If I may, you're right, the shifters fit the bosses brazed onto the frame but I'm not sure how the stops which appear to be (at least) tightly pressed fit, could be removed from the Campy bolt-on bracket and placed on the frame?

I gently tried to remove that part from the entire clamp but it doesn't appear to be going anywhere without a saw or grinder.

As it stands, the shifters swing freely, even with the screw all the way down. I can find some spacers to allow the screw and the Campy retainer to join but without those stops, not sure how to proceed.

Thanks
Hmmh. Sounds like the stop plates are corroded to the clamp band. Maybe soak with some penetrating oil and see if you can get it loose. I think you're right, that the shifters won't work without the stop plates. If you totally can't get them off (heat cycles, penetrating oil, etc.), you could try to source just the stop plates, but they might be hard to find as separate items.

Sorry that it seems the stop plates won't come off for you. It wasn't an issue when I did similar. They were tight, but not frozen on.

Best of luck with your project!
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Old 09-13-19, 06:13 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by cqlink
You got it. PM sent. Shoot me an address.
Oh, great. It looks like you have sourced the plates separately from cudak888. Awesome! (And good karma to cudak888.)

Sounds like you're on track.
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Old 09-13-19, 06:22 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by bentaxle
Oh, great. It looks like you have sourced the plates separately from cudak888. Awesome! (And good karma to cudak888.)

Sounds like you're on track.
Yes. Got lucky!

As this thread is going in a different direction and it's likely I'll need a bit more advice along the way, I'm going to start a "1975 Paramount Build" thread to help others that may be going down this road.
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