General maintenance after drive home in the rain?
09-23-19, 03:46 PM
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General maintenance after drive home in the rain?
So I had my bike on a hitch-rack on the back of my car for a 6-hour drive home through at least a half-dozen heavy (1-3"/hour) downpours. Is there any specific maintenance/cleaning/etc. I should do? FYI--I'm a fair-weather cyclist, so I don't tend to do much water-related maintenance.
Clean and re-lubricate the chain seems obvious. But I'm not sure what (if anything) else I should tackle.
Would appreciate any tips/hints. What about hubs (no/poor seals: Shimano M475 front, M525 rear), which I've never learned how to disassemble and maintain. What about headset? Don't want everything to turn into a seized-up mess.
Thanks!
Clean and re-lubricate the chain seems obvious. But I'm not sure what (if anything) else I should tackle.
Would appreciate any tips/hints. What about hubs (no/poor seals: Shimano M475 front, M525 rear), which I've never learned how to disassemble and maintain. What about headset? Don't want everything to turn into a seized-up mess.
Thanks!
09-23-19, 03:56 PM
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I'm almost positive you'll be fine with common sense maintenance here. If you had to repack your hub bearings after every ride in the rain, I'm not sure if anyone could stand cycling at all.
09-23-19, 04:28 PM
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I had read some things about the M475 being poorly-sealed to the point of essentially being un-sealed, so I just wanted to make sure. Like I said, I'm not used to doing any sort of water-related maintenance.
09-23-19, 04:30 PM
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after the exposure to 99% humidity with an average rainfall of 3cm at any temperature above 277° K, you must dissemble each chain link and soak in a mineral spirits bath for 3 hours, followed by a mineral oil bath for 6 hours.
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09-23-19, 04:37 PM
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I'll look forward to my next ride ~6 weeks from now.
09-23-19, 05:03 PM
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after the exposure to 99% humidity with an average rainfall of 3cm at any temperature above 277° K, you must dissemble each chain link and soak in a mineral spirits bath for 3 hours, followed by a mineral oil bath for 6 hours.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html
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09-23-19, 05:31 PM
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No need to do anything expect maybe lubing the chain.
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09-23-19, 06:56 PM
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You might consider wiping down the rims, too. Wet can coat the rim with aluminum slurry that accelerates brake wear, both rims and pads.
09-23-19, 07:19 PM
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I could have saved myself a whole lotta headaches if I had only known it was Pina Colada and not Tequila over ice with a Dark Rum chaser... With that said, I'd probably put a drop of oil on the exposed brake and shift cables where they enter the guides. Of course, that's only after you follow Restlesswinds sage advice about cleaning and lubing your chain. That's gotta be priority one, or at least second after the Pina Colada. 
09-23-19, 07:38 PM
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As others have said just a general wipe down may be all that is needed. For roof top carriers I'd recommend one of those bicycle 'bras' or whatever they are called. Back in the day I drove from Houston to Kentucky and remember the grease getting blown out of my Colnago Mexico's headset not to mention the bug splatters!!! After that the bicycles always ride inside (and passengers get the roof rack) lol
09-23-19, 07:50 PM
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Pull the seatpost and turn upside down incase anything got in the seat tube.
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09-24-19, 05:38 AM
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09-24-19, 09:14 AM
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After a drive like that, I'll do more than most here.
Lube the chain is a no-brainer. Also wipe down and re-lube your derailer pivots and brake pivots. Give the cable adjusters a drop of oil, both the ones on your frame and the ones on your derailer and brakes, should you have them there. (Blast them with water for a few hours and they'll rust solid otherwise. Been there, done that.)
I'd also suggest shooting some lube into your shifters. If you have a threaded stem, pull that and re-lube (I don't worry as much about threadless). As noted, pull the seatpost (mark the insertion point with some masking or electrical tape first). Wipe the rims and brake pads, and while you're at it, wash the whole bike -- it'll be covered in gunk.
I've got the tools, so I'd repack the wheels. If I didn't, I'd plan on doing it over the winter when you have time to figure out how it's done. And finally, put a small drop of oil into each spoke/nipple joint (wipe off whatever doesn't soak into the joint).
All of that hassle will make your bike last years longer. All of that hassle is why I prefer to put my bike into a car for longer trips, instead of hanging it off the car. At least for long road trips.
Lube the chain is a no-brainer. Also wipe down and re-lube your derailer pivots and brake pivots. Give the cable adjusters a drop of oil, both the ones on your frame and the ones on your derailer and brakes, should you have them there. (Blast them with water for a few hours and they'll rust solid otherwise. Been there, done that.)
I'd also suggest shooting some lube into your shifters. If you have a threaded stem, pull that and re-lube (I don't worry as much about threadless). As noted, pull the seatpost (mark the insertion point with some masking or electrical tape first). Wipe the rims and brake pads, and while you're at it, wash the whole bike -- it'll be covered in gunk.
I've got the tools, so I'd repack the wheels. If I didn't, I'd plan on doing it over the winter when you have time to figure out how it's done. And finally, put a small drop of oil into each spoke/nipple joint (wipe off whatever doesn't soak into the joint).
All of that hassle will make your bike last years longer. All of that hassle is why I prefer to put my bike into a car for longer trips, instead of hanging it off the car. At least for long road trips.
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09-24-19, 12:05 PM
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I live in an apartment and keep my bike inside. If the bike got wet from outside, I'd put it in the bathtub for a few hours with the fan on it to dry.
It's not how wet the bike gets but how long the bike is wet.
It's not how wet the bike gets but how long the bike is wet.
09-24-19, 01:15 PM
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you have my sympathy
09-24-19, 02:08 PM
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Here’s a link to a well-known procedure for chain cleaning.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html
all that work for what another 10-25% life? I just replace my chain each 1000miles...
09-24-19, 04:22 PM
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Here’s a link to a well-known procedure for chain cleaning.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html
Originally Posted by Sheldon Brown
Warning! Shelbroconol Pre-soak ®
Shelbroconol Pre-soak ® is the ideal pre-soak for chain cleaning, especially when used in conjunction with Shelbrothane Cleaning Solvent ®, but it is extremely carcinogenic. Do not breathe vapors from Shelbroconol Pre-soak ®, or you will almost certainly develop lung cancer within two weeks!
*Warning!Shelbrothane Cleaning Solvent ®
Shelbrothane Cleaning Solvent ® is the finest chain cleaner ever developed, especially when used correctly in conjunction with Shelbroconol Pre-soak ® and Deakinol Rinsing Solvent ®. However it is EXTREMELY toxic!In case of skin contact, immediate amputation is indicated.
If swallowed, do not bother to induce vomiting, it won't do any good, you're a goner!
*Warning! Deakinol Rinsing Solvent ®
Deakinol Rinsing solvent is the ideal solvent for chains, and is perfectly compatible with all chain lubricants, road dirt and rust, but it is highly volatile and explosive. Deakinol Rinsing Solvent must NEVER be allowed to come into contact with Shelbroconol Pre-soak, as this combination is highly explosive, and will detonate without warning!
*Warning! Deakins White RollerGrease ®
Deakins White RollerGrease is the ideal lubricant for chain rollers, but it is important to keep it away from skin contact, as it will cause intense, unbearable itching!
Shelbroconol Pre-soak ® is the ideal pre-soak for chain cleaning, especially when used in conjunction with Shelbrothane Cleaning Solvent ®, but it is extremely carcinogenic. Do not breathe vapors from Shelbroconol Pre-soak ®, or you will almost certainly develop lung cancer within two weeks!
*Warning!Shelbrothane Cleaning Solvent ®
Shelbrothane Cleaning Solvent ® is the finest chain cleaner ever developed, especially when used correctly in conjunction with Shelbroconol Pre-soak ® and Deakinol Rinsing Solvent ®. However it is EXTREMELY toxic!In case of skin contact, immediate amputation is indicated.
If swallowed, do not bother to induce vomiting, it won't do any good, you're a goner!
*Warning! Deakinol Rinsing Solvent ®
Deakinol Rinsing solvent is the ideal solvent for chains, and is perfectly compatible with all chain lubricants, road dirt and rust, but it is highly volatile and explosive. Deakinol Rinsing Solvent must NEVER be allowed to come into contact with Shelbroconol Pre-soak, as this combination is highly explosive, and will detonate without warning!
*Warning! Deakins White RollerGrease ®
Deakins White RollerGrease is the ideal lubricant for chain rollers, but it is important to keep it away from skin contact, as it will cause intense, unbearable itching!
- Disclaimer
- This page created April 1, 2010
This page is a joke! Note the date above!
ShelBroCo does not actually recommend taking your chain completely apart! Deakinol Rinsing Solvent, Shelbrothane Cleaning Solvent, Shelbroconol Pre-soak, and Deakins White RollerGrease are all imaginary products.
If you are looking for serious advice on Chain Maintenance, click here!
Last edited by Jim from Boston; 09-24-19 at 04:50 PM.
09-24-19, 09:25 PM
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Does anyone know if Shelbrocon products are available on Ababy? I could really use some of that white roller grease...
