JBaldauff

Hey All, I’ve come under the spell of “needing” disc brakes and maybe a new bike. Currently have a Gunnar Crosshairs that’s pretty dialed in. Should I sell it? I’m looking at canyon grail al, ribble cgr, caadx, and other similar bikes. In a lot of way I’d be downgrading (wheels, etc). Here is the Gunnar’s Specs:

• Frame: Gunnar CrossHairs, Platinum and Reynolds 853 steel. 58cm
• Fork: ENVE Carbon
• Headset: Chris King
• Stem: Thomson Elite X4, 130mm
• Handlebar: Bontrager
• Bar Tape: Brooks
• Brakes: Paul Components MiniMoto (front) and Cantilever (rear)
• Brake / Shift Levers: Sram Force10-speed mechanical.
• Front Derailleur: Sram Force 22
• Rear Derailleur: Sram Force 10-speed
• Cassette: Sram 10-speed 11-28
• Chain: Shimano Ultegra 10-speed
• Crankset: InfoCrank Power Meter, 172.5
• Bottom Bracket: Praxis
• Wheelset: a set of White Industries laced to velocity and a set of Stan's NoTubes Alpha 400
• Tires: Schwalbe G-One All Around 700x38
• Saddle: Brooks Swift
• Seatpost: Thomson Masterpiece setback.
• Bottle Cages: Elite Inox

Gah. What should I do? Sell or keep? I’m fully aware much of this is a matter of preference. I’ll take any and all thoughts

randallr

I have a crosshairs with Paul NeoRetro brakes on the front, touring cantilever on the back. Quite aggressive stopping power, for me. Downhill on a 20% grade at 40mph, hit the brakes, slow down rapidly.

Junkbeast

Hope you don't want that green Grail AL. They really strung me along and they're gone now. There are a few silver ones left.

tangerineowl

I'd consider just selling the frameset and look around for a disk frameset you like the geo and weight of (including secondhand) with the same dropouts/hub width.
Keep everything else and get some new Juin Tech/Yokozuna GT 4-pot mech calipers and compressionless housing.

JBaldauff

Yes as in, “you don’t like Paul brakes and I should get rid of it?” Or “Yes to Paul brakes?”

i have been a fan of the Paul’s compared to regular cantis but still lose power in wet and icy weather.

Rides4Beer

I absolutely love the 105 hyd discs on my Revolt, wet, dry, onroad, offroad, I'm sold. When you're stopping/slowing over 200lbs, they make a big difference, imo (prob around 215 when loaded up, gravel bike + rider). I still love my rim brake road bike, but when it's time for a new road bike, it will definitely have hyd discs.

JBaldauff

I have thought about it. Would have to swap wheelset, maybe post, who knows what else. Not sure I want to get into that.

JBaldauff

My issues arise when it’s very wet and especially when it’s wet+cold.

rando_couche

IMO, any of the bikes you mention would be a MAJOR step down in the frame dept. But keep in mind I've been riding steel bikes for 40+ years, including TWO Gunnars. Wish I still had at least one of 'em!

SP
Nwpt, OR

JBaldauff

SP,

I completely agree. That's my big hang up. I am a fan of US-made frames and the Gunnar has a utilitarian elegance to it. I have been leaning towards a repaint and really getting the brakes dialed in, as that is the major issue for me.

Rides4Beer

I don't know for sure, but since it's steel, wouldn't you be able to have someone retrofit it for disc brakes? Maybe a new fork, but should be able to weld a disc brake mount for the rear, no?

mstateglfr 

Buy a gunnar xx frame then. Get whatever style disc brakes you want since they offer all options.
Transfer what you can from your current bike, get a new wheelset, and enjoy.

rando_couche

There's also the Milwaukee Bicycles Mettle: https://www.benscycle.com/milwaukee-..._20834/product.

Also made by Waterford with the same geo as the Crosshairs plus flat mount discs. At $1250 for frame, carbon fork and headset it's hard to beat. If I wouldn't get in major trouble for it, I'd already have one!

SP
Nwpt, OR

zpl

That is one sweet Gunnar setup. If you sell it, expect quite a sting - people expect heavy discounts in the used bike market. I was in a similar boat as you, I had a meticulously maintained and upgraded bike, and after a couple of close calls this year where I couldn't grab enough brake while on the hoods, and having experienced mech discs on my winter commuter, I decided to get a new bike and sell the old one. Took over a month to sell and I gave it away for quite a bit less than I was hoping. I might have been able to part it out but I valued my time more. Now I'm on a new ride with 105 hydros and there is just no comparison, braking-wise.

mstateglfr 

Heck of a deal for sure, considering fork is included. A HyperX is $1350 PLUS fork($500-600 depending).

The frame geometry per the link, is different from Gunnar Crosshairs and Gunnar HyperX frames though, for what its worth.

Chi_Z

have you tired to ask gunner to retrofit a ISO disk mount on your current frame? might be possible, then you just need a new fork

rando_couche

Oh. I was just looking at my size (62cm give or take) and it was the same as my old Crosshairs.

SP
Nwpt, OR

mstateglfr 

I compared the largest Milwaukee to the same size in Gunnar. New geometry must be in play for Gunnar.
Regardless, it's mostly minor differences. A few mm of stack or reach, a half degree different head tube, etc.
I actually think its neat that the Milwaukee isn't just a straight rebadged Gunnar.

randallr

And I assume you've tried Kool Stop Salmon compound pads
Oh, one other thought - what about just front disk, then all you have to swap out is a fork? 70% of stopping power is up front

chas58

True, but in cold, wet - you really need to be able to modulate front and rear appropriately, or you'll lock up the front and go down. I've thought about doing that, but it would really only work in good dry conditions. Rim and disks react differently to cold/wet and good modulation and ballance front/rear would be darn near impossible.

Koyote

A few posters have suggested retrofitting disc brake mounts to the bike; that is not possible. Gunnar (which is Waterford, really) will tell you, correctly, to just get a new frame and fork.

At least one poster suggested that you use Kool-Stop brake pads; I believe Paul Components brakes ship with those as original equipment. If not, try 'em, as they are a cheap upgrade.

OP, you have some fantastic components on that bike, and you describe it as "dialed in" -- both of which support keeping the bike. On the other hand, your sig places your location as Canton, and I have raced gravel around there -- will be in Magnolia on Saturday for a race, in fact -- and there are enough steep descents to make disc brakes pretty handy. You're the only one who can decide whether a new bike is worth it just to get better braking power.

This probably won't help you resist buying a new bike:

DanBell

I skimmed the thread so I'm not sure if anyone has already mentioned this, and the money outlay would be substantial, but if you love that frame and bike you could always get a disc fork and front wheel. I have a friend who did this with his fixed gear. Disc on the front and caliper on the back for him. In your case you'd need a new fork, wheel, single hydro disc caliper and lever. So it wouldn't be cheap, but you wouldn't have to give up this gorgeous frame.

JBaldauff

Koyote,

Why would you show me that bike? Cruel!

I am now in the Chicago area and most of my brake complaints are when its cold and wet and I am commuting in the city. I have listed the bike on ebay at a price I'd be OK letting it go for and no hits yet. We will see. I might repost it a few times and if it doesn't sell keep it. Cheers.

KeatonR

Disc brakes are *so* much better.

I was in a similar situation to you and had a Lemond Poprad from 2005, Platinum OX frame. Loved the bike, didn't love the braking, especially during a couple of descents that still stand out in my mind.

Anyway, I now have a Gunnar Hyper XF and can say without hesitation that it is my most favoritist bike I've ever owned, and I've owned quite a few.

cs1

Waterford says it isn’t safe on their site. The rim brake frames were not designed for disc brakes. It involves more than welding. The fork and stays are different.