Shimano 600 brifter repair?
#1
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Shimano 600 brifter repair?
Anybody know how to troubleshoot these? The bike was not really ever ridden so I assume some internals just dried up?
#2
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The lite grease in there has dried up and stuck the pawls. Some degreaser with working the levers should wake them up. Let the degrease run out for awhile then add lite lube back to the inner mechanism.
Utube has the vids to watch.
Utube has the vids to watch.
#3
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Thread Starter
I thought about as much. I’ll give it a shot
#5
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Thread Starter
I can’t get it to release cable. That’s the problem. I hope degreaser works. It does look like the grease is dry. Any other tips on diagnosis?
#6
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https://imgur.com/a/0tPBK
Here is a step-by-step overhaul for ST-6400 shifters. I haven't attempted this, but the steps to access the parts that are likely gummed up look fairly straightforward. But probably best done in one sitting so how everything came apart is still fresh on the mind when everything needs to go back together.
Here is a step-by-step overhaul for ST-6400 shifters. I haven't attempted this, but the steps to access the parts that are likely gummed up look fairly straightforward. But probably best done in one sitting so how everything came apart is still fresh on the mind when everything needs to go back together.
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lube the cables and the derailleurs too. Has been sitting 20 years from the look of it.
Mark Petry
Bainbridge Island, WA USA
Mark Petry
Bainbridge Island, WA USA
#9
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Thread Starter
https://imgur.com/a/0tPBK
Here is a step-by-step overhaul for ST-6400 shifters. I haven't attempted this, but the steps to access the parts that are likely gummed up look fairly straightforward. But probably best done in one sitting so how everything came apart is still fresh on the mind when everything needs to go back together.
Here is a step-by-step overhaul for ST-6400 shifters. I haven't attempted this, but the steps to access the parts that are likely gummed up look fairly straightforward. But probably best done in one sitting so how everything came apart is still fresh on the mind when everything needs to go back together.
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Oh those look like they have little wear!! Very nice. There's also a guy that refurbs them on Facebook. I don't think it's super pricey, would be worth it.
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I've brought several back to life simply with repeated flushes of WD40 and then relubing with Triflow. I bet this will come back with the same simple treatment.
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As everyone has already said, flush and shift.
Fair warning: It is not unusual for the flush-and-shift method to take much longer than you think. I had one set that I'd WD40 and shift for 5 minutes straight, and it took a few days of this until I was guaranteed not to have a missed downshift.
If it won't downshift at all, you may have to put the shifter cable in a vise so you can put sufficient pressure against the system for the mechanism to begin clicking back.
In other words, if you are not prepared for the process, you'll get frustrated. Do a little spray-and-shift every day, multiple times a day when you can. Be patient, and you'll be rewarded.
-Kurt
Fair warning: It is not unusual for the flush-and-shift method to take much longer than you think. I had one set that I'd WD40 and shift for 5 minutes straight, and it took a few days of this until I was guaranteed not to have a missed downshift.
If it won't downshift at all, you may have to put the shifter cable in a vise so you can put sufficient pressure against the system for the mechanism to begin clicking back.
In other words, if you are not prepared for the process, you'll get frustrated. Do a little spray-and-shift every day, multiple times a day when you can. Be patient, and you'll be rewarded.
-Kurt
Last edited by cudak888; 10-07-19 at 05:24 AM.
#15
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Thread Starter
As everyone has already said, flush and shift.
Fair warning: It is not unusual for the flush-and-shift method to take much longer than you think. I had one set that I'd WD40 and shift for 5 minutes straight, and it took a few days of this until I was guaranteed not to have a missed downshift.
If it won't downshift at all, you may have to put the shifter cable in a vise so you can put sufficient pressure against the system for the mechanism to begin clicking back.
In other words, if you are not prepared for the process, you'll get frustrated. Do a little spray-and-shift every day, multiple times a day when you can. Be patient, and you'll be rewarded.
-Kurt
Fair warning: It is not unusual for the flush-and-shift method to take much longer than you think. I had one set that I'd WD40 and shift for 5 minutes straight, and it took a few days of this until I was guaranteed not to have a missed downshift.
If it won't downshift at all, you may have to put the shifter cable in a vise so you can put sufficient pressure against the system for the mechanism to begin clicking back.
In other words, if you are not prepared for the process, you'll get frustrated. Do a little spray-and-shift every day, multiple times a day when you can. Be patient, and you'll be rewarded.
-Kurt
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#16
Banned.
From experience, I have covered everything in towels I can throw out and squirted cheap lubricant and just kept shifting, constantly, until it started to click.
It could be a two beer job, wear gloves.
It could be a two beer job, wear gloves.
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#17
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While doing the flush/shift, don't force the small (b) lever. It's steel part ways, with a plastic tip. Too much force can break the tip (paddle) off or put cracks in the plastic covering at the upper end.
If you need to do a "strip-down", just a partial will probably be enough. Just work from the front cover. Disassemble to the part of removing the large lever. All of the parts that need cleaning/re-lubing will be exposed. Going as far as removing the rear "castle" nut is probably not needed.
There is a thread on here somewhere about how to do this. May have been for the 105 or RSX but is very similar to these.
If you need to do a "strip-down", just a partial will probably be enough. Just work from the front cover. Disassemble to the part of removing the large lever. All of the parts that need cleaning/re-lubing will be exposed. Going as far as removing the rear "castle" nut is probably not needed.
There is a thread on here somewhere about how to do this. May have been for the 105 or RSX but is very similar to these.
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It took me weeks to revive mine! I flushed it every few days.
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Another tip: if your brifter is maxed out on the lowest gear setting and will not budge, disconnect the cable at the RD. loosening the tension there may make things start working again, once you've hosed the thing out with solvent.
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I just rehabbed a set of those a few months ago. The lube in my shifters had transformed into a putty-like consistency and it took a combination of solvent and mechanical removal of the goo (with various small pointy things) to get them freed up. Just be patient and be careful not to force anything or bend any of the tiny springs.
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I used:https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-m...ti-levers.html
Worked out well.
Worked out well.
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This will get you as far as you need to go... https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-m...ti-levers.html
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I used:https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-m...ti-levers.html
Worked out well.
Worked out well.
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Too do things in short order but with a bit more work pull the cables all the way take the levers off the bike and clean flush them best you can. Then rebuild with new cables and you should be fine,
#25
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Thanks everyone a bunch of flushing over a few days got them both going again!
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