Where can I find an M10 fastener?
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Where can I find an M10 fastener?
My Surly Troll has a threaded hole in the dropout that's meant to receive an M10 screw (bolt?) with a 1mm pitch. I can't find a stainless M10x1mm fastener anywhere. Any ideas?
#2
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Just bought M10, 1.00 pitch, 30 mm, 40mm & 50mm atHome Depot, though they aren't stainless.
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Fastenal are everywhere. And unlike the builder-bob outlets like Home Deport...they have load-rated fasteners if you need them.
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I can't even find them online. I just got back from Lowes and Home Depot - neither one had less than M10x1.50. There's a Tractor Supply about 25 minutes away and a Fastenal closer - about 15 minutes. Will Fastenal sell small quantities to the general public?
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In my area (Houston) I find some Ace Hardware carry many more "rare" items than the big boxes. That's my go-to place for non-commodities. I also find some items at auto parts stores, but only if they have motor vehicle application.
Having said that, I recently got a M4 in the specialty fastener cabinet at my Lowes in SS. They had a wide variety of diameters, threads, lengths and materials.
Having said that, I recently got a M4 in the specialty fastener cabinet at my Lowes in SS. They had a wide variety of diameters, threads, lengths and materials.
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They do both consumer as well as contractor/volume sales.
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Finally found some online: https://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_tap...m_x_1.0mm.aspx I would still prefer to buy locally so I'll probably visit the Fastenal near me. Thanks for the help on this.
The above bolts are not stainless but maybe a good slather of grease would keep them from rusting for the foreseeable future.
That raises another question I've wondered about lately. I recently got an new, steel frame bike and I've added racks, front and rear. While installing the racks I wondered whether it was better to grease the threads of the screws I was using (the ones going into the braze-ons) or apply Loctite. I assume you can;t do both. I went with the grease because that's what I had in the shed, but for future reference, is it better to use thread locker?
The above bolts are not stainless but maybe a good slather of grease would keep them from rusting for the foreseeable future.
That raises another question I've wondered about lately. I recently got an new, steel frame bike and I've added racks, front and rear. While installing the racks I wondered whether it was better to grease the threads of the screws I was using (the ones going into the braze-ons) or apply Loctite. I assume you can;t do both. I went with the grease because that's what I had in the shed, but for future reference, is it better to use thread locker?
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There's a West Marine even closer than Fastenal so I'll give them a call tomorrow. I'm intrigued with the Fastenal suggestion, though. I may do a recon trip there even if I hit paydirt at West Marine. I might end up there for other things in the future.
And, yes, I looked at those Surly trailer hitch mounts but they are $35 and I'm hoping for a less expensive (albeit less interesting) solution.
And, yes, I looked at those Surly trailer hitch mounts but they are $35 and I'm hoping for a less expensive (albeit less interesting) solution.
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So I don't have any old axles around; West Marine doesn't have a 10mmx1.0 bolt; I didn't get to Fastenal before they closed for the weekend...however, I searched Home Depot online and found a store in the area that does have an M10x1.0mm bolt - 20mm long! I'll be there tomorrow.
Next question: 20 mm will be too long so I'll have to cut it down. I know from previous experience that cutting with a hack saw mangles the threads at the end. How do I clean up the threads so they will engage well with the eyelet on the frame?
One approach that occurred to me is to cut the bolt while it's screwed into the frame. Then maybe when I back it out, after cutting it to length, the threads in the frame will force any damaged threads on the bolt to the correct shape. This assumes that the steel of the frame is stronger than the steel of the bolt ( I have no idea if this is the case). Otherwise, the damaged threads on the bolt will only ruin the threads in the frame, which, obviously, I don't want. Is there a better way?
Next question: 20 mm will be too long so I'll have to cut it down. I know from previous experience that cutting with a hack saw mangles the threads at the end. How do I clean up the threads so they will engage well with the eyelet on the frame?
One approach that occurred to me is to cut the bolt while it's screwed into the frame. Then maybe when I back it out, after cutting it to length, the threads in the frame will force any damaged threads on the bolt to the correct shape. This assumes that the steel of the frame is stronger than the steel of the bolt ( I have no idea if this is the case). Otherwise, the damaged threads on the bolt will only ruin the threads in the frame, which, obviously, I don't want. Is there a better way?
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So I don't have any old axles around; West Marine doesn't have a 10mmx1.0 bolt; I didn't get to Fastenal before they closed for the weekend...however, I searched Home Depot online and found a store in the area that does have an M10x1.0mm bolt - 20mm long! I'll be there tomorrow.
Next question: 20 mm will be too long so I'll have to cut it down. I know from previous experience that cutting with a hack saw mangles the threads at the end. How do I clean up the threads so they will engage well with the eyelet on the frame?
One approach that occurred to me is to cut the bolt while it's screwed into the frame. Then maybe when I back it out, after cutting it to length, the threads in the frame will force any damaged threads on the bolt to the correct shape. This assumes that the steel of the frame is stronger than the steel of the bolt ( I have no idea if this is the case). Otherwise, the damaged threads on the bolt will only ruin the threads in the frame, which, obviously, I don't want. Is there a better way?
Next question: 20 mm will be too long so I'll have to cut it down. I know from previous experience that cutting with a hack saw mangles the threads at the end. How do I clean up the threads so they will engage well with the eyelet on the frame?
One approach that occurred to me is to cut the bolt while it's screwed into the frame. Then maybe when I back it out, after cutting it to length, the threads in the frame will force any damaged threads on the bolt to the correct shape. This assumes that the steel of the frame is stronger than the steel of the bolt ( I have no idea if this is the case). Otherwise, the damaged threads on the bolt will only ruin the threads in the frame, which, obviously, I don't want. Is there a better way?
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Rear derailleur mounting bolts are 10mm x 1mm thread. What are you intending to do?
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That's a picture of my rear dropout in the previous post. I want to attach a Burley trailer hitch using that M10 hole there.
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https://www.fastenal.com/product/fas...FamilyId=30885
They do both consumer as well as contractor/volume sales.
They do both consumer as well as contractor/volume sales.
I haven't been back in to see if they've changed policies, and don't know if that restriction was local, but in the past I have seen reports of others with the same experience.
We had a small bolt and fastener store that was closer to me with better service, but unfortunately it had vanished the last time I checked.
Not all building supply stores are the same.
I think Lowes tends to have a slightly better bolt selection than Home Depot, especially in Stainless.
I know I had bought a regular 10x1 bolt a while ago for my derailleur hanger jig, but I don't think it was stainless. Probably bought at a local building store, Jerry's.
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Metric fasteners
Try industrial suppliers. McMaster Carr and Grainger both have a wide range of fasteners. You'll likely have to buy a bag though.
A quick Google shows links on both Amazon and AliExpress for m10x1.0 bolts.
A quick Google shows links on both Amazon and AliExpress for m10x1.0 bolts.
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Bolts
10mm bolt......... same place I get everything else!
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Bolt+10mm...f=nb_sb_noss_2
Barry
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Bolt+10mm...f=nb_sb_noss_2
Barry
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Thanks for all the hardware help! I didn't found a stainless version of the M10-1.0 bolt, but I found a zinc coated hex bolt that will hopefully work for a good long time. I'll need to trim it to length and use a matching nut and file to clean up the threads before installation, but I think it will come together well.
There's one issue I haven't solved though. The hole in the hitch that the bolt passes though is wider than the 10mm diameter of the bolt so there some play there. I would like to find a washer or some other solution to fill that gap (it would have to be a narrow washer). Any ideas? I plan on taking the pieces to the store and seeing what I can find. No project is complete without at least 2 trips to the hardware store
There's one issue I haven't solved though. The hole in the hitch that the bolt passes though is wider than the 10mm diameter of the bolt so there some play there. I would like to find a washer or some other solution to fill that gap (it would have to be a narrow washer). Any ideas? I plan on taking the pieces to the store and seeing what I can find. No project is complete without at least 2 trips to the hardware store
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Ace HArdware seems to sell single nuts and bolts of many different sizes.
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Sorry about the huge images. I'll have to figure out how to resize them.