Buying a used bike
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Buying a used bike
Hi all,
Not sure if I should post this here or in the road cycling forum.
Anyway, I am new to cycling, only been cycling since November. I currently only have SS/Fixed gear bikes and would really like to upgrade. I made a thread a while ago about it, but since, I got into a car accident, and the funds for the bike diminished. So, now it is $500-600 max.
I will probably be buying from craigslist. What can I get for this? Is it worth just waiting for the funds for a new bike? I assume I wont really mind buying another one when I have more money, I just need something for the summer. I am a student, so I have the summers off and I hope to fill this summer with riding.
Things to look out for when buying from craigslist?
Before, I was deciding between a CAAD8 or CAAD10.
Thanks!
Not sure if I should post this here or in the road cycling forum.
Anyway, I am new to cycling, only been cycling since November. I currently only have SS/Fixed gear bikes and would really like to upgrade. I made a thread a while ago about it, but since, I got into a car accident, and the funds for the bike diminished. So, now it is $500-600 max.
I will probably be buying from craigslist. What can I get for this? Is it worth just waiting for the funds for a new bike? I assume I wont really mind buying another one when I have more money, I just need something for the summer. I am a student, so I have the summers off and I hope to fill this summer with riding.
Things to look out for when buying from craigslist?
Before, I was deciding between a CAAD8 or CAAD10.
Thanks!
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Bikes come in sizes. Size affects your comfort, efficiency and performance every single minute that you're riding on it. In terms of importance, nothing else even comes close. You wouldn't buy shoes that were the wrong size just because they were cheap.
When you buy new from a shop you can decide on the kind of bike and price point you want and let the shop get one for you in the right size. When you buy a bike from Craigslist there's usually only one. If it's not the right size it's not a good deal regardless of the price and what components it may have on it.
When you buy new from a shop you can decide on the kind of bike and price point you want and let the shop get one for you in the right size. When you buy a bike from Craigslist there's usually only one. If it's not the right size it's not a good deal regardless of the price and what components it may have on it.
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Yes, that is true.
At the LBS that I go to, they fitted me as a 53 for a CAAD10, but, of course it will be different for every bike. But, that is my rough guideline, I am currently riding a 52.
At the LBS that I go to, they fitted me as a 53 for a CAAD10, but, of course it will be different for every bike. But, that is my rough guideline, I am currently riding a 52.
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So there you go. Beyond that I'd just look at the overall condition and value vs. new. It's a bike not some hyper complicated rocket ship or something. Buy it, ride the hell out of it, and fix whatever wears out or breaks.
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Unless you really understand the mechanics of bicycles and their worth, I would stay away from craigslist.
You can get a good deal only if you really know what you are doing. 95 percent of the bikes on craigslist are being sold by flippers. Most are interested in one thing, profit. Many misrepresent and overprice their bikes. It is no place for a novice to buy a bike.
I have bought and sold hundreds of bikes on craigslist, but I stick to certain kinds of bikes that I have a great understanding of, others I keep away from cause I will end up getting burned.
You can get a good deal only if you really know what you are doing. 95 percent of the bikes on craigslist are being sold by flippers. Most are interested in one thing, profit. Many misrepresent and overprice their bikes. It is no place for a novice to buy a bike.
I have bought and sold hundreds of bikes on craigslist, but I stick to certain kinds of bikes that I have a great understanding of, others I keep away from cause I will end up getting burned.
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I have always done incredibly well at garage sales. I have always like searching out people who have something and they just want to dump it because it has become clutter. Anything to do with fitness is in this category.
You can get some incredible deals.
You can get some incredible deals.
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Alright. Thanks guys. May look around at some bike shops.
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+1 on garage sales. I've snagged 2 nice mid level roadies off CL for cheap, under $30 cheap, but you have to be lucky or a troll. Flippers in this area scoop the up as soon as they hit it seems like.
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Nothing would suck more than going to register your new buy only to have cops call you later and tell you that the bike was stolen and it needs to be reclaimed. Make sure they have proper registration papers.
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Registration? What would be the benefit in "registering" a bicycle? Theft recovery? Personal property taxation? Is this mandatory in HI?
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Definitely plenty of used bikes on craigslist. I recently picked up my 1st road bike for $600. Excellent condition 2011 Scott Speedster S20 with full 105. I made sure that it was the right fit/size before I bought, however. I've put about 125 miles on the bike already with less than 2 weeks since I bought it. You don't need to spend a ton to enjoy riding.
You can also check bicyclebluebook.com to check approximate value (not sure how accurate though).
You can also check bicyclebluebook.com to check approximate value (not sure how accurate though).
Last edited by JBerman; 03-11-14 at 11:12 AM.
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As posted buying the correct size is job one! The best bike does you little good if it doesn't fit.
CL is an excellent resource for experienced riders. These are people who know bikes and bike components. If that's not you it would be easy to get snookered.
Since that is a problem what to do? How about a new bike at a steep discount? many bike shops have last year's models still available. Most shops will offer deep discounts on these bikes. There are shops that have models that are several model years old. Mostly, these bikes are in the lower and upper extremes of fit range. This weekend i was in a shop that had discounted models ranging from 52 to 58cm( 58cm is in the sweet spot for fit). These were road bikes. One example was a Trek road bike ( can't remember the model) normal retail sale price was $969 marked down to $599. That's a deal!
Other possibilities - Goodwill.
Lastly, if you are near a resort area many bike rental companies sell the fleet between seasons.
CL is an excellent resource for experienced riders. These are people who know bikes and bike components. If that's not you it would be easy to get snookered.
Since that is a problem what to do? How about a new bike at a steep discount? many bike shops have last year's models still available. Most shops will offer deep discounts on these bikes. There are shops that have models that are several model years old. Mostly, these bikes are in the lower and upper extremes of fit range. This weekend i was in a shop that had discounted models ranging from 52 to 58cm( 58cm is in the sweet spot for fit). These were road bikes. One example was a Trek road bike ( can't remember the model) normal retail sale price was $969 marked down to $599. That's a deal!
Other possibilities - Goodwill.
Lastly, if you are near a resort area many bike rental companies sell the fleet between seasons.
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+1 to the idea of finding a good used bike at either a garage sale or at a second hand store. I've done well this way securing bikes for other people. A few I have kept myself to use as loaner bikes, most have been passed on to friends. You can "try it on for size" to see if the frame is the right size or measure it if you know your correct size. Most of what you see is going to be junk. The first thing I look at is the axles and bottom bracket on the bike. Anything with wheels held on by nuts or a one piece crank is bound to be not worth a second glance. Pick up the bike. If it is heavy, move on. These few tests alone will eliminate at least 95% of all the bikes you will see. In general, the lighter the bike, the more expensive it was new and the better the components. I wouldn't touch anything weighing over 30 pounds for a road bike or MTB. You can weigh a bike using a bathroom scale. If you are just going to ride on roads, stick to an unsuspended bike. There's a lot of really crappy mass merchandiser bikes with useless suspensions that don't work, add weight, and mean the manufacturer cut corners elsewhere to add useless suspension parts. One of my best finds a 1993 Cannondale SM800 MTB came from a Savers thrift store. It was dusty, the tires were flat, and it looked neglected. The moment I lifted it I knew it was special. It weighs 23 pounds. I spent a little sweat equity going through the bike completely and cleaning, lubricating, and adjusting. In about 7 years, the only thing I have done to it is to replace the tires once and repair flats. I only recently found out that the MSRP was $800. I paid $20 for it.
Many times you can find the original cost of the bike by looking up the make and model in BikePedia. It will list the original components and frame color which helps to figure out the year it was made. It lists the MSRP. If you buy off CL, look up the bike on bikepedia and also search for reviews. You will know the strengths and weaknesses of a bike from reading the reviews. They also often tell what actual people paid for the bike compared to the MSRP. You might also find out if the bike has been recalled by the manufacturer.
Many times you can find the original cost of the bike by looking up the make and model in BikePedia. It will list the original components and frame color which helps to figure out the year it was made. It lists the MSRP. If you buy off CL, look up the bike on bikepedia and also search for reviews. You will know the strengths and weaknesses of a bike from reading the reviews. They also often tell what actual people paid for the bike compared to the MSRP. You might also find out if the bike has been recalled by the manufacturer.
#15
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I've done pretty good on Craigslist. But like some of the other guys here mentioned you have to beat the flippers to the bike if its a good deal. Timing can mean a lot.
#16
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Unfortunately they also use this system to fine the s*** out of you too. If your bike is locked up in an inappropriate place like street signs or fences, construction scaffolding, etc they'll send you a fine in the mail unless that bike has been reported stolen (see?) in which case they impound the bike and you can recover it. If it stays locked up too long they send you a notice in the mail when it is considered abandoned and you have some time to take it back before they recycle it.
There are also hipster and trickster fines, if the bike has no brakes, you aren't wearing a helmet and isn't a cruiser (pretty much fixies and bmx) they fine you based off your registration (the fines are worse if it isn't registered). It doesn't happen that often though, you have to be making a nuisance of yourself first.
Last edited by GhostSS; 03-11-14 at 11:57 PM.
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+1 to the idea of finding a good used bike at either a garage sale or at a second hand store. I've done well this way securing bikes for other people. A few I have kept myself to use as loaner bikes, most have been passed on to friends. You can "try it on for size" to see if the frame is the right size or measure it if you know your correct size. Most of what you see is going to be junk. The first thing I look at is the axles and bottom bracket on the bike. Anything with wheels held on by nuts or a one piece crank is bound to be not worth a second glance. Pick up the bike. If it is heavy, move on. These few tests alone will eliminate at least 95% of all the bikes you will see. In general, the lighter the bike, the more expensive it was new and the better the components. I wouldn't touch anything weighing over 30 pounds for a road bike or MTB. You can weigh a bike using a bathroom scale. If you are just going to ride on roads, stick to an unsuspended bike. There's a lot of really crappy mass merchandiser bikes with useless suspensions that don't work, add weight, and mean the manufacturer cut corners elsewhere to add useless suspension parts. One of my best finds a 1993 Cannondale SM800 MTB came from a Savers thrift store. It was dusty, the tires were flat, and it looked neglected. The moment I lifted it I knew it was special. It weighs 23 pounds. I spent a little sweat equity going through the bike completely and cleaning, lubricating, and adjusting. In about 7 years, the only thing I have done to it is to replace the tires once and repair flats. I only recently found out that the MSRP was $800. I paid $20 for it.
Many times you can find the original cost of the bike by looking up the make and model in BikePedia. It will list the original components and frame color which helps to figure out the year it was made. It lists the MSRP. If you buy off CL, look up the bike on bikepedia and also search for reviews. You will know the strengths and weaknesses of a bike from reading the reviews. They also often tell what actual people paid for the bike compared to the MSRP. You might also find out if the bike has been recalled by the manufacturer.
Many times you can find the original cost of the bike by looking up the make and model in BikePedia. It will list the original components and frame color which helps to figure out the year it was made. It lists the MSRP. If you buy off CL, look up the bike on bikepedia and also search for reviews. You will know the strengths and weaknesses of a bike from reading the reviews. They also often tell what actual people paid for the bike compared to the MSRP. You might also find out if the bike has been recalled by the manufacturer.
And, again, you said nothing wrong in your post. it's good info. Just better for those of us who know what you are talking about.
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Things to look out for when buying from craigslist?
that is where complete rookies are at a disadvantage ..
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FWIW true bargains are few and far between in the Puget Sound region. Yard sales, thrift shops and college surplus sales are much better.
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$500? There is always bikesdirect. You'd probably have to do a lot of driving to get a garagesale bike. If you do use CL you should have someone who knows bike mechanics with you or at least a second eye to see things you may have missed.
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I don't really want to go for a new bike, because I feel I could get something nice that is lightly used for the best bang for buck.
Still thinking though.
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Not sure of your size... Looks pretty clean. Men's Trek bike late 1980s
#23
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Not sure of your size... Looks pretty clean. Men's Trek bike late 1980s
That looks pretty cool, would change a few things on it.
Last edited by RamAlaRag; 03-13-14 at 08:25 PM.
#24
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I heard about early Treks having some issues with the shifters and the frames weren't so great...