What glue or something I should to use for tubeless tire?
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What glue or something I should to use for tubeless tire?
So i had my tubuless wheels and last owner did glue them that tires cant to go out rim and i did unglue it and need to glue it again
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I’ve never heard of modern tubeless tires getting glued onto a rim. With a good tubeless rim and tire design, they seal fine without. Find a different shop
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No.
Don't.
No, no, nononononononononononono, you don't need to do that.
Tubeless tires don't need to be glued to anything. They are designed to stay on the rims they're fitted to by mechanical interaction between the beads on the tires and the inner surfaces of the rims they're fitted to.
Even if tubes are needed (to keep air in them because of a bad rim tape job) the tires do not need gluing to stay on the rims.
Don't.
No, no, nononononononononononono, you don't need to do that.
Tubeless tires don't need to be glued to anything. They are designed to stay on the rims they're fitted to by mechanical interaction between the beads on the tires and the inner surfaces of the rims they're fitted to.
Even if tubes are needed (to keep air in them because of a bad rim tape job) the tires do not need gluing to stay on the rims.
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Dried sealant looks like glue but it's not glue.
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No glue at all. You probably are talking sealant maybe and like chain lube every has an opinion and they are probably all wrong and also all right. I would go for Orange Seal as I have used that a lot over the years for different people and it is made in 'Murica.
Again to be clear no glue.
Also when you install your tires make sure they seat first before you add sealant. NEVER add sealant before your tires are seated because if something goes wrong you could have a sealant explosion and waste money and sealant and cleaners you didn't need to. Make sure it can hold air before you test fluids.
Again to be clear no glue.
Also when you install your tires make sure they seat first before you add sealant. NEVER add sealant before your tires are seated because if something goes wrong you could have a sealant explosion and waste money and sealant and cleaners you didn't need to. Make sure it can hold air before you test fluids.
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Also when you install your tires make sure they seat first before you add sealant. NEVER add sealant before your tires are seated because if something goes wrong you could have a sealant explosion and waste money and sealant and cleaners you didn't need to. Make sure it can hold air before you test fluids.
Originally Posted by https://silca.cc/products/ultimate-tubeless-sealant-w-fiberfoam
• Must be poured into tire during install
• Not injector compatible (It seals holes bigger than
your valve)
• Not injector compatible (It seals holes bigger than
your valve)
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Also when you install your tires make sure they seat first before you add sealant. NEVER add sealant before your tires are seated because if something goes wrong you could have a sealant explosion and waste money and sealant and cleaners you didn't need to. Make sure it can hold air before you test fluids.
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Fair dinkum on that one. But I would still probably test it first and then remove some of the bead and install.
Ahh I have seen some inflations blow up. I wouldn't recommend it but you gotta do you.
Meh. I've been skipping the test inflation, and adding sealant before the first inflation. There's a couple of times when the sealant did its job, and helped the tires seal and seat. I understand the risks if something goes wrong. If they aren't sealing and seating, they aren't going to hold enough air pressure to cause a catastrophic explosion.
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I'm really really.......................really hoping your are confusing tubeless sealant with 'glue'. No tire should be glued to a wheel unless it is a sewup tire that is glued onto a rim that is only used for sewups or tubular tires.
Likely as has been said you are mistaking sealant for glue...it's not lol.
I recommend removing the tires from the rim, peeling...fingers work well...the dried sealant off the inside of the tires and rim then cleaning the remaining sealant from the inside of the tires...they make a 'solvent' but I use a pan with warm water and Dawn...yep if it's good for ducks, etc...with a scrubby sponge. Clean off as much as you can, wipe dry and install on the wheel/rim...after it is cleaned as well. Use a good floor pump or a compressor to 'seat'/'mount' the tire on the rim then either pour the correct amount of a good quality sealant either through the valve...remove the core first and replace with a new core if able...or as I prefer, use a tire lever to pop a few inches of the tire from the rim and pour the correct amount of sealant directly into that space and carefully/slowly rotate the wheel to spread the sealant. Then pop that section of tire back and inflate.
There are lots of YouTube videos showing exactly how to do this...GCN does a very good job imo.
Sealant also does not last forever and will dry after some time requiring a 'recharge' of sealant...I always peal the old, dried sealant before adding fresh sealant but many don't bother...I am a bit of a 'neat freak' but that is me...do what you want.
PS: I always make sure to clean off dried sealant from the tire's bead/edges. I prefer a good seal at the bead and cleaning off any old, dried sealant will assure a good seal.
Likely as has been said you are mistaking sealant for glue...it's not lol.
I recommend removing the tires from the rim, peeling...fingers work well...the dried sealant off the inside of the tires and rim then cleaning the remaining sealant from the inside of the tires...they make a 'solvent' but I use a pan with warm water and Dawn...yep if it's good for ducks, etc...with a scrubby sponge. Clean off as much as you can, wipe dry and install on the wheel/rim...after it is cleaned as well. Use a good floor pump or a compressor to 'seat'/'mount' the tire on the rim then either pour the correct amount of a good quality sealant either through the valve...remove the core first and replace with a new core if able...or as I prefer, use a tire lever to pop a few inches of the tire from the rim and pour the correct amount of sealant directly into that space and carefully/slowly rotate the wheel to spread the sealant. Then pop that section of tire back and inflate.
There are lots of YouTube videos showing exactly how to do this...GCN does a very good job imo.
Sealant also does not last forever and will dry after some time requiring a 'recharge' of sealant...I always peal the old, dried sealant before adding fresh sealant but many don't bother...I am a bit of a 'neat freak' but that is me...do what you want.
PS: I always make sure to clean off dried sealant from the tire's bead/edges. I prefer a good seal at the bead and cleaning off any old, dried sealant will assure a good seal.
#11
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Is there any chance you are talking about sew ups (tubular tires)? Otherwise, yeah, no glue ever.
As far as testing before sealant... I have often had some leakage until sealant was added and the sealant fixed it up. I have sometimes added sealant first and think that is fine, never had a problem with it.
As far as testing before sealant... I have often had some leakage until sealant was added and the sealant fixed it up. I have sometimes added sealant first and think that is fine, never had a problem with it.
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#15
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I don't know anyone who runs them, but I still see them for sale. Tufo is one that apparently still sells sewup MTB wheels. Googling "tubular mtb tires" brings up quite a few hits that look like currently available stock.
But, yeah almost everyone runs clinchers (tubeless or with tubes). Tubular is and has been rare on mountain bikes.
I only brought it up because the OP seemed to think the tires were glued on. Tubeless could have been one possibility. Error on his part about them being glued on was more likely though.
But, yeah almost everyone runs clinchers (tubeless or with tubes). Tubular is and has been rare on mountain bikes.
I only brought it up because the OP seemed to think the tires were glued on. Tubeless could have been one possibility. Error on his part about them being glued on was more likely though.
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[QUOTE=spclark;23077446]No.
Don't.
No, no, nononononononononononono, you don't need to do that.
Tubeless tires don't need to be glued to anything.
Wait, so for example if I have some Zipp440s, do they need glue for the tire to sfay in place or not necessarily?
Don't.
No, no, nononononononononononono, you don't need to do that.
Tubeless tires don't need to be glued to anything.
Wait, so for example if I have some Zipp440s, do they need glue for the tire to sfay in place or not necessarily?
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Nobody has quite said this. Implied but not said in so many words. So:
If these wheels and tires are tubular aka sewup, for God's sake, glue them with really good glue or stick them on with again, really good rim tape!!! Please, please, please! There is nothing else that is keeping your tires on the rim and your skin off the pavement. (Go to the forum thread "totally Tubular".)
If these wheels and tires are tubular aka sewup, for God's sake, glue them with really good glue or stick them on with again, really good rim tape!!! Please, please, please! There is nothing else that is keeping your tires on the rim and your skin off the pavement. (Go to the forum thread "totally Tubular".)
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Any reputable outlet that sells 'em should be able to answer your question.
Are they sold as tubeless tires? Do they have beads on the edges (either wire or something like Kevlar that can be folded)?
Truly tubeless tires aren't meant to be glued to the rims they're mounted on, they must fit rims made to mount tubeless tires of a specific size, and the rims themselves must be rated "tubeless compatible" to then be built up into wheels with this ultimate use in mind.
Tubular tires are meant to be glued to the rims they're mounted on.
This doesn't mean clincher tires with tubes inside, it means tires that have their edges (where the beads would otherwise be if they weren't tubulars) stitched together so the tire itself forms a 'tube' with the pressure-retaining bladder – tube by another name – held inslde.
The tube's inside the tire, which has its edges sewn tightly together, with bias tape and glue on the stitched-up seam that then gets glued to the outer surface of the rim that makes it a complete wheel.
"Tubeless" tires can still have tubes inside 'em, lots of folks run 'em that way. But there's no need for glue when it comes to mounting them onto rims meant to carry them. Running a tube in a 'tubeless' tire's strictly a personal preference depending on the conditions where they're intended to be used. Putting tubes in tubeless tires is kind of an insurance policy that gives the user an edge over potential flats that could otherwise ruin a fine afternoon's outing.
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https://www.theproscloset.com/produc...00c-wheelset-1
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I looked up Zipp 440. Every one I saw was tubular. [MENTION=518571]Calebyss[/MENTION], look at your rim, specifically the outer surface the tire sits on. Does it form a shallow, smooth channel? In cross section, would that channel be basically an arc, say 19mm wide or so and maybe 4 mm deep? No outside "walls" of any sort? If yes, this is a tubular rim. The tires come as a sealed unit, like a deflated hula hoop. You can easily pump them up and use them as a hula hoop. (A little small. With pressure they turn inside out so the valve would not be an issue as you twirl it with your hips. But - don't blow them up hard until they are mounted on a rim. Turning inside out under pressure can do it damage.
This is ancient technology. The tire is a casing like we are used to with the normal tread and a tube inside - but - that tube is held inside by the casing alone. That casing is sewn up around the tube, then a strip of basetape is glued over the stitching. That basetape does two things. Protects the stitching and serves as the medium for that critical glue or adhesive rim tape to stick to. Before mounting the tire, you apply special glue, called rim cement, to both the rim surface and the base tape. Or rim tape to just the rim. Then carefully place the tire onto the very tacky either glue or tape. That "sticky" is all that is keeping your tire on. (Done right, it is tough getting the tire off. In blowouts, even at very high speeds, this system is still preferred by some for the ability to roll to a stop on the completely flatted tire in confidence.)
For far more than I can lay out here go to the thread Totally Tubular. Tubulars are completely different from regular tires, both clincher and tubeless. Most of the bike world doesn't understand them. But, done right, they are 1) one of the sweetest rides ever made, 2) you can safely make the wheel/tire combination very, very light, 3) you can run tubulars at a very big range of pressures safely and 4) they are so much more boring at high speed heart stopping tire pressure loss. And 5) you will hear how they are oh so wrong from almost everybody on this forum.
This is ancient technology. The tire is a casing like we are used to with the normal tread and a tube inside - but - that tube is held inside by the casing alone. That casing is sewn up around the tube, then a strip of basetape is glued over the stitching. That basetape does two things. Protects the stitching and serves as the medium for that critical glue or adhesive rim tape to stick to. Before mounting the tire, you apply special glue, called rim cement, to both the rim surface and the base tape. Or rim tape to just the rim. Then carefully place the tire onto the very tacky either glue or tape. That "sticky" is all that is keeping your tire on. (Done right, it is tough getting the tire off. In blowouts, even at very high speeds, this system is still preferred by some for the ability to roll to a stop on the completely flatted tire in confidence.)
For far more than I can lay out here go to the thread Totally Tubular. Tubulars are completely different from regular tires, both clincher and tubeless. Most of the bike world doesn't understand them. But, done right, they are 1) one of the sweetest rides ever made, 2) you can safely make the wheel/tire combination very, very light, 3) you can run tubulars at a very big range of pressures safely and 4) they are so much more boring at high speed heart stopping tire pressure loss. And 5) you will hear how they are oh so wrong from almost everybody on this forum.
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