Somewhat random thoughts and questions
03-19-15, 06:06 AM
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Somewhat random thoughts and questions
I would like to thank those who responded to my post yesterday. I got a lot more responses than I expected. I do think that some respondents read more into my post than was intended, but I understand that is the nature of the medium.
Yesterday I went riding in a nearby neighborhood. There is a long loop around a lake and there are absolutely no stop signs on the loop as it is the main road in the neighborhood. There is a traffic circle where you enter and exit the neighborhood. It is a beautiful ride. The lake is nice and the houses on the loop around the lake are the very nicest houses in the neighborhood. It is a beautiful ride. Although my town is considered by many to be not bicycle friendly, I have found this neighborhood to be very bicycle friendly. The drivers treat bicycles just as they would any other vehicle. I got proper respect and attention in the circle and when cars came from the different roads that join the loop, they tended to properly yield the right of way. Walkers stayed on the sidewalks and though there were some joggers on the street, for the most part they exercised appropriate caution. it was a beautiful spring afternoon. I was a little concerned when I saw the school buses. I hadn't considered that in planning my ride. However, the bus drivers exercised the same courtesy as the other drivers and their higher perch didn't seem to limit their visibility when it came to the crazy man on the bicycle. I had an enjoyable ride.
With this nice loop ride, I was able to maintain a fairly constant pace. I only had to slow a couple of times when I wasn't sure if a driver coming out of a driveway saw me and when it was my turn to yield in the circle. I have measured this loop myself and I found that my average pace on the ride was about 12 mph. That is a lot closer to what I expected my normal pace to be at this stage of my development. After consideration, I have decided that the MUP from the previous day has to have been shorter than what I was led to believe.
Here is my first question. After reading the experiences of others getting into (or back into) bicycling, I expected to have a sore bottom from riding. That has not been my experience. There has been some soreness in the knees, but as I have gotten stronger, that seems to be lessening. The soreness that concerns me a little is in my hands. After about forty minutes, both hands begin to hurt. Perhaps I am gripping to tightly. I am thinking that perhaps a good set of gloves will help (I have been riding glove free). Does anyone have any wisdom from experience that can help here?
Although I have had bicycles with multiple speeds before, I've never really done much shifting. I have wanted to get to know my shifters this time around so I have been shifting what I would consider to be more than the usual amount. I have noticed that when I shift down on the front sprockets, I always look down because I think that I've lost my chain because it feels like I am just freewheeling. Just an adaptation observation. I do keep it on the middle sprocket (on the front) and use the rear derailleur for the most part as I have read advice in that direction. Although I do not have a specific question regarding shifting, I am interested in hearing any shifting philosophies that anyone might have. How often do you shift? Any advice on how you choose which gears to use and what do you do shift wise when you have to stop suddenly would be appreciated. My bicycle is a hybrid with road tires and 21 speeds.
I am not riding today because it is raining, I have other things that I need to get done and after several days in a row, I need a little break. That means that the next time I ride, I will hopefully be out of the neck brace. I have ridden in the rain once and it wasn't so bad. What weather conditions keep you from riding?
When you are going on a long ride, how do you carry water and snacks and so forth? I have seen those water bottles that attach to the bicycle frame and plan on getting one. One bottle doesn't seem like enough for a long ride.
Yesterday I went riding in a nearby neighborhood. There is a long loop around a lake and there are absolutely no stop signs on the loop as it is the main road in the neighborhood. There is a traffic circle where you enter and exit the neighborhood. It is a beautiful ride. The lake is nice and the houses on the loop around the lake are the very nicest houses in the neighborhood. It is a beautiful ride. Although my town is considered by many to be not bicycle friendly, I have found this neighborhood to be very bicycle friendly. The drivers treat bicycles just as they would any other vehicle. I got proper respect and attention in the circle and when cars came from the different roads that join the loop, they tended to properly yield the right of way. Walkers stayed on the sidewalks and though there were some joggers on the street, for the most part they exercised appropriate caution. it was a beautiful spring afternoon. I was a little concerned when I saw the school buses. I hadn't considered that in planning my ride. However, the bus drivers exercised the same courtesy as the other drivers and their higher perch didn't seem to limit their visibility when it came to the crazy man on the bicycle. I had an enjoyable ride.
With this nice loop ride, I was able to maintain a fairly constant pace. I only had to slow a couple of times when I wasn't sure if a driver coming out of a driveway saw me and when it was my turn to yield in the circle. I have measured this loop myself and I found that my average pace on the ride was about 12 mph. That is a lot closer to what I expected my normal pace to be at this stage of my development. After consideration, I have decided that the MUP from the previous day has to have been shorter than what I was led to believe.
Here is my first question. After reading the experiences of others getting into (or back into) bicycling, I expected to have a sore bottom from riding. That has not been my experience. There has been some soreness in the knees, but as I have gotten stronger, that seems to be lessening. The soreness that concerns me a little is in my hands. After about forty minutes, both hands begin to hurt. Perhaps I am gripping to tightly. I am thinking that perhaps a good set of gloves will help (I have been riding glove free). Does anyone have any wisdom from experience that can help here?
Although I have had bicycles with multiple speeds before, I've never really done much shifting. I have wanted to get to know my shifters this time around so I have been shifting what I would consider to be more than the usual amount. I have noticed that when I shift down on the front sprockets, I always look down because I think that I've lost my chain because it feels like I am just freewheeling. Just an adaptation observation. I do keep it on the middle sprocket (on the front) and use the rear derailleur for the most part as I have read advice in that direction. Although I do not have a specific question regarding shifting, I am interested in hearing any shifting philosophies that anyone might have. How often do you shift? Any advice on how you choose which gears to use and what do you do shift wise when you have to stop suddenly would be appreciated. My bicycle is a hybrid with road tires and 21 speeds.
I am not riding today because it is raining, I have other things that I need to get done and after several days in a row, I need a little break. That means that the next time I ride, I will hopefully be out of the neck brace. I have ridden in the rain once and it wasn't so bad. What weather conditions keep you from riding?
When you are going on a long ride, how do you carry water and snacks and so forth? I have seen those water bottles that attach to the bicycle frame and plan on getting one. One bottle doesn't seem like enough for a long ride.
03-19-15, 06:29 AM
#2
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Nice ride report.
You might want to invest in a bike computer. They can tell your mileage, time, and speed. Some can be found under $20. If you have a smart phone, there's apps for that.
I envy that your rump doesn't get sore. As for hands, some padded gloves should help a lot. Make sure that you don't have a death grip on the handlebars. Hold them loosely. One advantage of road handlebars is that they allow multiple hand positions. Straight-type bars on hybrids don't allow you to change hand positions very much; however, you can install bar ends on some. Also make sure to not lock your elbows. Keep them flexed.
I also tend to look at my gears often after shifting and I've been riding over 40 years. As far as my shifting philosophy, I shift to keep spinning the pedals in a somewhat narrow band of 75-85 RPM. This helps avoid knee pain a lot. I use the read derailleur to make small changes such as when I find myself getting below 75 RPM or turning into the wind. I use the front derailleur when doing things like starting out (usually the middle ring) or just before climbing or descending a hill. I also avoid cross-chaining such as big-big and small-small gears. If you are using your middle chain ring, then you aren't having this problem. In fact at this stage of your development, and considering that you describe a flat route, the middle chain ring might be perfect for you. Just make sure to downshift to an easier gear before coming to a stop. You don't want to be mashing the pedals when trying to cross a road or something.
I avoid riding in the rain for the most part. I don't mind it if it's hot such as above 80F degrees, but certainly don't like to ride in the rain and cold.
I carry water for any ride. It's a simple measure to prevent dehydration. If the ride is over 2 hours, then I'll use things like a diluted sports drink instead of water and might even carry snacks. On of my favorites is a Pay Day candy bar available at most gas stations. If your bike can handle two water bottle cages, get them. One bottle is good for about 10-15 miles on a hot day. Two bottles double that. For rides longer than 2 hours, I usually stop at the above mentioned gas station to refill with a sport drink or find a city park with a water fountain.
You might want to invest in a bike computer. They can tell your mileage, time, and speed. Some can be found under $20. If you have a smart phone, there's apps for that.
I envy that your rump doesn't get sore. As for hands, some padded gloves should help a lot. Make sure that you don't have a death grip on the handlebars. Hold them loosely. One advantage of road handlebars is that they allow multiple hand positions. Straight-type bars on hybrids don't allow you to change hand positions very much; however, you can install bar ends on some. Also make sure to not lock your elbows. Keep them flexed.
I also tend to look at my gears often after shifting and I've been riding over 40 years. As far as my shifting philosophy, I shift to keep spinning the pedals in a somewhat narrow band of 75-85 RPM. This helps avoid knee pain a lot. I use the read derailleur to make small changes such as when I find myself getting below 75 RPM or turning into the wind. I use the front derailleur when doing things like starting out (usually the middle ring) or just before climbing or descending a hill. I also avoid cross-chaining such as big-big and small-small gears. If you are using your middle chain ring, then you aren't having this problem. In fact at this stage of your development, and considering that you describe a flat route, the middle chain ring might be perfect for you. Just make sure to downshift to an easier gear before coming to a stop. You don't want to be mashing the pedals when trying to cross a road or something.
I avoid riding in the rain for the most part. I don't mind it if it's hot such as above 80F degrees, but certainly don't like to ride in the rain and cold.
I carry water for any ride. It's a simple measure to prevent dehydration. If the ride is over 2 hours, then I'll use things like a diluted sports drink instead of water and might even carry snacks. On of my favorites is a Pay Day candy bar available at most gas stations. If your bike can handle two water bottle cages, get them. One bottle is good for about 10-15 miles on a hot day. Two bottles double that. For rides longer than 2 hours, I usually stop at the above mentioned gas station to refill with a sport drink or find a city park with a water fountain.
03-19-15, 06:38 AM
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Which brings up another question. Although I live in a hilly part of the world, most of my riding has indeed been on relatively flat routes. When I do go over hills, I tend to coast down. Is it so terrible to consider the downhill to be the reward from making it over the uphill?
03-19-15, 06:41 AM
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I recommend trying gloves if your hands are getting sore. Which gloves to get is a personal preference. I like something with just a little padding like the Giro Bravo. If you can't find them at your LBS, they are available on Amazon and at Nashbar. Try those. If you hands still hurt, go back to the bike shop and see if they have any advice about adjusting the fit of your bike to take pressure off your hands.
As far as shifting goes, I shift to maintain an optimal cadence. Beyond that, on longer or steeper climbs, I shift into the small front chainring earlier, rather than later, and usually shift to a harder back gear at the same time. Then as the hill gets steeper, I progressively shift to easier gears to maintain my cadence until I crest the hill, then shift back to the middle or big chainring.
I highly recommend getting two water bottle cages (one on the downtube and one on the seat tube) for hot days, so you can carry at least two 20 to 24 oz bottles. On cooler days you might only need one bottle but it never hurts to be prepared. You should also have a spare tube and tire levers stored in a small bag you mount under the seat. There are any number of ways to store other incidentals like a phone, lock, mini pump, CO2 cartridges, food, sunglasses, tissues. One is to get a small frame bag. Another is to mount a utility rack to the back, or front of your bike. (my bike came stock with a small front rack). Or you could just stuff all that stuff into the back pockets of your jersey.
As far as shifting goes, I shift to maintain an optimal cadence. Beyond that, on longer or steeper climbs, I shift into the small front chainring earlier, rather than later, and usually shift to a harder back gear at the same time. Then as the hill gets steeper, I progressively shift to easier gears to maintain my cadence until I crest the hill, then shift back to the middle or big chainring.
I highly recommend getting two water bottle cages (one on the downtube and one on the seat tube) for hot days, so you can carry at least two 20 to 24 oz bottles. On cooler days you might only need one bottle but it never hurts to be prepared. You should also have a spare tube and tire levers stored in a small bag you mount under the seat. There are any number of ways to store other incidentals like a phone, lock, mini pump, CO2 cartridges, food, sunglasses, tissues. One is to get a small frame bag. Another is to mount a utility rack to the back, or front of your bike. (my bike came stock with a small front rack). Or you could just stuff all that stuff into the back pockets of your jersey.
03-19-15, 06:42 AM
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Which brings up another question. Although I live in a hilly part of the world, most of my riding has indeed been on relatively flat routes. When I do go over hills, I tend to coast down. Is it so terrible to consider the downhill to be the reward from making it over the uphill?
03-19-15, 06:54 AM
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I enjoyed reading your ride report... and your questions are typical questions for newbie riders... you have many of the same concerns/experiences that I had when I first started riding.
Since you are new to riding, some questions about shifting gears is to be expected. You have a triple and are riding on mostly flat terrain, so it is not likely that you will have much need for the small gear in the front, and since you are new, you likely do not have the speed stamina to use the large chain ring much either, so you will likely stay on the middle ring in the front and do most of your shifting in the rear.
The knee pain could be from not having the bike fit correctly (seat relative to pedals) and it could be that you are using too large a gear and are "mashing" rather than spinning. I would concentrate on using a gear that is not too hard to push and get your cadence (pedal RPM) up. That may take some getting used to but will benefit you long term.
Hand pain after riding awhile can also be caused by several different things. One has been mentioned, gripping too tightly, another goes back to proper fit on the bike. For some folks gloves help and some folks like padded gloves... I use gloves but find that padded gloves cause me more problems than they solve.
If I were you, I would find a good fitter in your area and have them fit the bike to you. It will make your riding experience better.
When I am going to be riding more than a couple of hours I do take a light snack, usually a cliff bar and I carry it in one of the back pockets of my cycling jersey.
You have made a great start, hang in there and enjoy.
Since you are new to riding, some questions about shifting gears is to be expected. You have a triple and are riding on mostly flat terrain, so it is not likely that you will have much need for the small gear in the front, and since you are new, you likely do not have the speed stamina to use the large chain ring much either, so you will likely stay on the middle ring in the front and do most of your shifting in the rear.
The knee pain could be from not having the bike fit correctly (seat relative to pedals) and it could be that you are using too large a gear and are "mashing" rather than spinning. I would concentrate on using a gear that is not too hard to push and get your cadence (pedal RPM) up. That may take some getting used to but will benefit you long term.
Hand pain after riding awhile can also be caused by several different things. One has been mentioned, gripping too tightly, another goes back to proper fit on the bike. For some folks gloves help and some folks like padded gloves... I use gloves but find that padded gloves cause me more problems than they solve.
If I were you, I would find a good fitter in your area and have them fit the bike to you. It will make your riding experience better.
When I am going to be riding more than a couple of hours I do take a light snack, usually a cliff bar and I carry it in one of the back pockets of my cycling jersey.
You have made a great start, hang in there and enjoy.
03-19-15, 07:17 AM
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Which brings up another question. Although I live in a hilly part of the world, most of my riding has indeed been on relatively flat routes. When I do go over hills, I tend to coast down. Is it so terrible to consider the downhill to be the reward from making it over the uphill?
03-19-15, 07:34 AM
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Good report on the neighborhood ride, and some thoughtful questions in your post. It sounds like you are doing a lot of planning and preparation for each ride, that can be good, or bad, depending on how you let it control you, during your rides. This will be something you have to decide, if it starts becoming frustrating to ride, you are possibly over-thinking things. A lot of actions, such as the shifting and having to look down, will become second nature to you as you ride more. Time and miles are your friends right now, log them as you are able to do so. Staying alert to what is happening around you, paying attention to the possibilities for getting hit, or crashing and learning what works for you will help you become comfortable in riding, where ever you might choose to go. Shifting is why we choose geared bicycles, use them to your advantage and learn why, and when, to shift, as much as needed.
As far as things like pains in the arms, legs and hands, the "fit" of your entire set up will either help you, or hurt you, literally. The saddle height and fore/aft positioning, the bar height and reach, etc, are things that you should sort out, either by reading one or more of the many good books about bicycle maintenance, or watching videos on-line, if you choose to do things yourself. Or you can find a good Local Bicycle Shop (LBS in BF speak) that will stick with you, listen to your input, and feel comfortable/trust using. Finding a local club of like minded riders can be a big help, if you enjoy riding with others. Group riding requires some additional skills, and has an etiquette all its own, and they are usually grouped by fast, racing oriented rides, or just out riding and enjoying the passing miles.
If its simply some quicker paced training type riding you want, without any competition, a good club with group rides is a great way to develop skills. Pace lines and such require you to be aware, alert and have a thick skin, too. loom for a club that has beginner oriented rides, a "no-drop" policy fir new guys and possibly some schooling on how to best, safely do pace lines. Avoid the really fast, competition oriented clubs for right now, unless you have an taste for getting shelled, dropped and belittled on a regular basis.
If you have a compliant butt right off the bat, you are a rare individual, enjoy not having issues with saddle choice, and having rides become misery fests from the discomfort. Also, there is a language all its own for cycling, pick up on the terms here, and around the shops or clubs, some things might seem off-putting or rude, when its just how things get said and done around the veterans. Keep the enthusiasm and drinve for cycling going, don't let the beginning issues and frustrations turn you away fro this sport. It is a rewarding activity at all levels, if you will let it be one you can just relax and enjoy at the level(s) you want to achieve with your riding. Best of luck with your cycling, Welcome to cycling, and to the 50+ (without the unintentional snark I used a few posts back, unfortunately.)
Bill
As far as things like pains in the arms, legs and hands, the "fit" of your entire set up will either help you, or hurt you, literally. The saddle height and fore/aft positioning, the bar height and reach, etc, are things that you should sort out, either by reading one or more of the many good books about bicycle maintenance, or watching videos on-line, if you choose to do things yourself. Or you can find a good Local Bicycle Shop (LBS in BF speak) that will stick with you, listen to your input, and feel comfortable/trust using. Finding a local club of like minded riders can be a big help, if you enjoy riding with others. Group riding requires some additional skills, and has an etiquette all its own, and they are usually grouped by fast, racing oriented rides, or just out riding and enjoying the passing miles.
If its simply some quicker paced training type riding you want, without any competition, a good club with group rides is a great way to develop skills. Pace lines and such require you to be aware, alert and have a thick skin, too. loom for a club that has beginner oriented rides, a "no-drop" policy fir new guys and possibly some schooling on how to best, safely do pace lines. Avoid the really fast, competition oriented clubs for right now, unless you have an taste for getting shelled, dropped and belittled on a regular basis.
If you have a compliant butt right off the bat, you are a rare individual, enjoy not having issues with saddle choice, and having rides become misery fests from the discomfort. Also, there is a language all its own for cycling, pick up on the terms here, and around the shops or clubs, some things might seem off-putting or rude, when its just how things get said and done around the veterans. Keep the enthusiasm and drinve for cycling going, don't let the beginning issues and frustrations turn you away fro this sport. It is a rewarding activity at all levels, if you will let it be one you can just relax and enjoy at the level(s) you want to achieve with your riding. Best of luck with your cycling, Welcome to cycling, and to the 50+ (without the unintentional snark I used a few posts back, unfortunately.)
Bill
__________________
Semper Fi, USMC, 1975-1977
I Can Do All Things Through Him, Who Gives Me Strength. Philippians 4:13
Semper Fi, USMC, 1975-1977
I Can Do All Things Through Him, Who Gives Me Strength. Philippians 4:13
Last edited by qcpmsame; 03-19-15 at 07:37 AM.
03-19-15, 07:51 AM
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After reading several places about hand discomfort when riding, I think that most of my discomfort is due to gripping too tightly. Most of the discomfort is in the fingers, not the palm or side of the hand. I do have some osteoarthritis which I am sure contributes. One problem I have in the right hand is that I am trying to rebuild strength after suffering quite a bit of nerve damage due to my neck problem. My palms tend to sweat badly and from what I can read that can lead you to grip more tightly to keep from slipping. I will try gloves to see if that helps. I'll go to a bike shop and look at gloves. I almost ordered some online the other night, but I have odd sized hands and I was a bit concerned about buying without trying. I will also have someone look at the fit of the bike, although I do not think that is the problem in this case. I have seen recommendations to tilt the seat back a little more to shift weight and take pressure off your hands if your hands give you problems, but most of the fit recommendations for hand discomfort seems to be a response to sore palms or the outside of the hand. Thanks to everyone for your input.
03-19-15, 08:16 AM
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Sounds like your enjoying your rides. When riding local MUP's I try to time it for least people meandering about. Gloves can be inexpensive, the Avenir brand work for me. Two bottle cages are good, I also use a front baske
t ( I ride very upright due to 2/two C5-6 neck surgeries ) so can take lunch, raingear, extra jacket, etc. You really don't need cycling jerseys and cycling spec clothes, they are nice BUT not mandatory. Tim
t ( I ride very upright due to 2/two C5-6 neck surgeries ) so can take lunch, raingear, extra jacket, etc. You really don't need cycling jerseys and cycling spec clothes, they are nice BUT not mandatory. Tim
03-19-15, 08:25 AM
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Sounds like your enjoying your rides. When riding local MUP's I try to time it for least people meandering about. Gloves can be inexpensive, the Avenir brand work for me. Two bottle cages are good, I also use a front basket ( I ride very upright due to 2/two C5-6 neck surgeries ) so can take lunch, raingear, extra jacket, etc. You really don't need cycling jerseys and cycling spec clothes, they are nice BUT not mandatory. Tim
t ( I ride very upright due to 2/two C5-6 neck surgeries ) so can take lunch, raingear, extra jacket, etc. You really don't need cycling jerseys and cycling spec clothes, they are nice BUT not mandatory. Tim
03-19-15, 08:45 AM
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Hand soreness or numbness is common among new cyclists. It could be due to bike fit, your overall fitness and training level, and improper adjustments of saddle, stem or handlebar. Here are some options to try out:
- Put some bar tape with more cushioning on your handlebar. I have found gel cork tape to be the best for me.
- Raise your handlebar if it is much lower than your saddle height. You might need a new stem to do this, and it would be best to talk someone at a bike shop who understand bike fit. Simply raising the handlebar will also shorten your reach, which might help the soreness issue, but you might also need to change the stem rise and reach.
- Develop your core muscles in your stomach and back by exercising them. This will take time but ultimately should help support the weight of your upper body so you don't put so much pressure on your hands.
I had the same issue when I started cycling again about 15 years ago after laying off the sport for many years. I had terrible hand numbness and thought I would have to quit cycling. After trying all of the options listed above, what worked best for me was simply raising the height of my handlebars with a new stem. In my case, the hand numbness went away almost immediately after I did that. I was also much more comfortable on my bike and could ride longer distances after making the change.
- Put some bar tape with more cushioning on your handlebar. I have found gel cork tape to be the best for me.
- Raise your handlebar if it is much lower than your saddle height. You might need a new stem to do this, and it would be best to talk someone at a bike shop who understand bike fit. Simply raising the handlebar will also shorten your reach, which might help the soreness issue, but you might also need to change the stem rise and reach.
- Develop your core muscles in your stomach and back by exercising them. This will take time but ultimately should help support the weight of your upper body so you don't put so much pressure on your hands.
I had the same issue when I started cycling again about 15 years ago after laying off the sport for many years. I had terrible hand numbness and thought I would have to quit cycling. After trying all of the options listed above, what worked best for me was simply raising the height of my handlebars with a new stem. In my case, the hand numbness went away almost immediately after I did that. I was also much more comfortable on my bike and could ride longer distances after making the change.
03-19-15, 08:49 AM
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Pain free is GOOD, how is your range of motion? I ended up unable to ride drop bars/low bars because I couldn't comfortably see where I was going. IE tilting head up/back to see was too painful. Riding rough roads can cause me neck pain also, but I'm thinking about trying 38mm tires on my old Miyata 610 (cushy tires and smooth riding frame= 
?) Tim
?) Tim
03-19-15, 08:54 AM
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Pain free is GOOD, how is your range of motion? I ended up unable to ride drop bars/low bars because I couldn't comfortably see where I was going. IE tilting head up/back to see was too painful. Riding rough roads can cause me neck pain also, but I'm thinking about trying 38mm tires on my old Miyata 610 (cushy tires and smooth riding frame= ?) Tim
?) Tim
03-19-15, 09:51 AM
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I wouldn't worry excessively about hand and knee soreness at this point. Since you are undertaking a new activity, you'll adjust quickly.
School bus drivers are regular people just like everybody else. I know that for sure because I am one. Ride predictably on the correct side of the road, think about where and how you pass them, and don't try to crowd between them and the curb and you'll be fine. Oh - and you're a vehicle. When the stop arm comes out stop - even if you are traveling in the opposite direction.
School bus drivers are regular people just like everybody else. I know that for sure because I am one. Ride predictably on the correct side of the road, think about where and how you pass them, and don't try to crowd between them and the curb and you'll be fine. Oh - and you're a vehicle. When the stop arm comes out stop - even if you are traveling in the opposite direction.
__________________
My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
03-19-15, 11:32 AM
#16
just another gosling
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Always wear gloves, if for no other reason than that you might fall and gloves offer some protection. They also give you a better grip on the bars. They should fit snugly, so that you have to tug on each finger carefully to get them off.
For now, ride in the middle front ring most of the time. Only shift from the middle ring when you run out of cogs in the back or the chain starts making a clicking sound. Different drivetrains allow different amounts of this behavior, but try it. That will simply things for you until you get more experience.
In general, shift down before you need to, even though that will increase your cadence to more than your normal. Shift up later than you think you might want to. The philosophy is "don't bang your legs."
The inner or "granny" ring is the only one that's troublesome to shift in or out of. I shift in and out of the granny with the pedals loaded very lightly. Usually pushing harder on the pedals for a couple of strokes, then shifting while hardly pushing is the way to go. You'll know you need the granny ring when you run out of gears in the back and it's getting hard to pedal. Otherwise, you don't.
With the chain on either the granny or big ring, I normally don't run it past the middle of the cassette. IOW the granny is only for the bigger cogs in back. The big ring is only for the smaller cogs in back. Experience will tell you how much it's worth modifying this rule.
I pedal down hills unless I get going too fast.
When coming to a stop, shift into the usual gear you like to start in before coming to a stop. I'll usually do my shifting first, while pedaling of course, then my braking to stop. Or I might do a little braking, then the shifting, then a little more braking. If I don't have to stop after all, I just shift back up. If have have to make an emergency stop, I will have to start in a huge gear, that's all.
Snacks go in a jersey pocket. Two bottle cages to carry two bottles are standard, but for rides under two hours, one bottle might be enough, depending on temperatures.
I ride in the rain, though more frequently I will ride my rollers or a trainer indoors to avoid the cleanup associated with rain riding. It's good to ride in the rain on purpose a few times so you figure out how to dress and handle the bike, because sooner or later it will rain during a ride. You'll find that braking distances are longer, sometimes much longer depending on brakes and pads. Sometimes nothing much happens for the first 20 or so feet, so start braking much earlier than you are used to. Pavement is slick when it hasn't rained in a while. Be more cautious when cornering. Not terrified: it's not that bad, just be aware.
I don't ride when the snow is sticking or when it's been below freezing overnight and is still below 40°.
Always carry 2 tubes, a patch kit, a tire boot kit, a pump, your ID, and a little money. That stuff goes in a small saddle bag. The pump is held by a carrier, usually mounted by a bottle cage. A tire boot kit can be just some duct tape, anything that you could put put inside a tire over a big tire cut and get you home. AND practice changing a tire and tube at home, both tires. Flats are a fact of life. Always put a little air in the tube before inserting it into the tire. Try doing it without using tire levers: you'll have fewer failures.
For now, ride in the middle front ring most of the time. Only shift from the middle ring when you run out of cogs in the back or the chain starts making a clicking sound. Different drivetrains allow different amounts of this behavior, but try it. That will simply things for you until you get more experience.
In general, shift down before you need to, even though that will increase your cadence to more than your normal. Shift up later than you think you might want to. The philosophy is "don't bang your legs."
The inner or "granny" ring is the only one that's troublesome to shift in or out of. I shift in and out of the granny with the pedals loaded very lightly. Usually pushing harder on the pedals for a couple of strokes, then shifting while hardly pushing is the way to go. You'll know you need the granny ring when you run out of gears in the back and it's getting hard to pedal. Otherwise, you don't.
With the chain on either the granny or big ring, I normally don't run it past the middle of the cassette. IOW the granny is only for the bigger cogs in back. The big ring is only for the smaller cogs in back. Experience will tell you how much it's worth modifying this rule.
I pedal down hills unless I get going too fast.
When coming to a stop, shift into the usual gear you like to start in before coming to a stop. I'll usually do my shifting first, while pedaling of course, then my braking to stop. Or I might do a little braking, then the shifting, then a little more braking. If I don't have to stop after all, I just shift back up. If have have to make an emergency stop, I will have to start in a huge gear, that's all.
Snacks go in a jersey pocket. Two bottle cages to carry two bottles are standard, but for rides under two hours, one bottle might be enough, depending on temperatures.
I ride in the rain, though more frequently I will ride my rollers or a trainer indoors to avoid the cleanup associated with rain riding. It's good to ride in the rain on purpose a few times so you figure out how to dress and handle the bike, because sooner or later it will rain during a ride. You'll find that braking distances are longer, sometimes much longer depending on brakes and pads. Sometimes nothing much happens for the first 20 or so feet, so start braking much earlier than you are used to. Pavement is slick when it hasn't rained in a while. Be more cautious when cornering. Not terrified: it's not that bad, just be aware.
I don't ride when the snow is sticking or when it's been below freezing overnight and is still below 40°.
Always carry 2 tubes, a patch kit, a tire boot kit, a pump, your ID, and a little money. That stuff goes in a small saddle bag. The pump is held by a carrier, usually mounted by a bottle cage. A tire boot kit can be just some duct tape, anything that you could put put inside a tire over a big tire cut and get you home. AND practice changing a tire and tube at home, both tires. Flats are a fact of life. Always put a little air in the tube before inserting it into the tire. Try doing it without using tire levers: you'll have fewer failures.
03-19-15, 01:44 PM
#17
Yes it is a paradox
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Wish you drove a school bus where I live. I have had a school bus pass me then immediately pop out the the stop sign. This has happened more than once. I just must have the "Evil Bus Driver".
I wouldn't worry excessively about hand and knee soreness at this point. Since you are undertaking a new activity, you'll adjust quickly.
School bus drivers are regular people just like everybody else. I know that for sure because I am one. Ride predictably on the correct side of the road, think about where and how you pass them, and don't try to crowd between them and the curb and you'll be fine. Oh - and you're a vehicle. When the stop arm comes out stop - even if you are traveling in the opposite direction.
School bus drivers are regular people just like everybody else. I know that for sure because I am one. Ride predictably on the correct side of the road, think about where and how you pass them, and don't try to crowd between them and the curb and you'll be fine. Oh - and you're a vehicle. When the stop arm comes out stop - even if you are traveling in the opposite direction.
03-19-15, 02:36 PM
#18
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The fact that your hands hurt but not your butt may mean your handlebars may be too far forward and too low so that more of your weight is on them instead of your butt. That being said, that may not be the case, as it wasn't with me. Around 45 years of age I started noticing hand pain while cycling and some achy numbness while batting in softball, and also while massaging my wife's back and shoulders. At the time I had one bike with a wide flatbar, slightly elevated at the ends. At first I found using gloves with extra padding, like weightlifter's gloves helped. Then I tucked Dr. Scholl's heel cushions inside my gloves. which also helped for batting and fielding. Finally, at about 48 I abandoned that gambit (and softball (for now)) and added bar ends, but inboard, so I had more of a jockey position. And I added foam pipe insulation to the hand grips and bar-ends. It was at that time I also acquired a drop-bar road bike. I also padded the handle bars on that and had interrupter brake levers (or secondary levers, or 'chicken levers') put on the upper bar of the road bike, so I could spend more time up there, too. By varying my hand positions, changing bikes and riding no handed when prudent, I was able to reduce my hand pain. Since the bars were padded, I didn't need padded gloves. And one thing weightlifting gloves lack is a soft-terrycloth nose-wiping patch. That's when I started buying cheap cotton work gloves for a buck a pair and cutting the fingers short for summer, and leaving them on for cooler riding. My whole hand is now a snot rag! This January (at 53) I bought my third bike, also a drop bar. I rode a few times with padded bike gloves, and no pipe foam on the bars. The first day was great. Then the pain started back in., so I put pipe insulation on those, too, and interrupter brakes; but since this is a more modern bike with brifters and more prominent hoods, I spend more time there, and comfortable. I've also used one gel seat on the big bike, one on the new bike, and 2 on the road bike. It's whatever works for you that works for you. That's my story; your mileage may vary.
03-19-15, 02:43 PM
#19
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Nobody likes to have to stop for the school bus so, if you were fairly close to my stop I'd have loitered behind you to the stop. If you were a ways back, however, I'd pass you first and stop in front of you just like the "Evil Bus Driver" did. It's a judgement call.
__________________
My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
03-19-15, 06:45 PM
#20
Senior Member
Which brings up another question. Although I live in a hilly part of the world, most of my riding has indeed been on relatively flat routes. When I do go over hills, I tend to coast down. Is it so terrible to consider the downhill to be the reward from making it over the uphill?
03-19-15, 09:24 PM
#21
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Hand soreness or numbness is common among new cyclists. It could be due to bike fit, your overall fitness and training level, and improper adjustments of saddle, stem or handlebar. Here are some options to try out:
- Put some bar tape with more cushioning on your handlebar. I have found gel cork tape to be the best for me.
- Raise your handlebar if it is much lower than your saddle height. You might need a new stem to do this, and it would be best to talk someone at a bike shop who understand bike fit. Simply raising the handlebar will also shorten your reach, which might help the soreness issue, but you might also need to change the stem rise and reach.
- Develop your core muscles in your stomach and back by exercising them. This will take time but ultimately should help support the weight of your upper body so you don't put so much pressure on your hands.
- Put some bar tape with more cushioning on your handlebar. I have found gel cork tape to be the best for me.
- Raise your handlebar if it is much lower than your saddle height. You might need a new stem to do this, and it would be best to talk someone at a bike shop who understand bike fit. Simply raising the handlebar will also shorten your reach, which might help the soreness issue, but you might also need to change the stem rise and reach.
- Develop your core muscles in your stomach and back by exercising them. This will take time but ultimately should help support the weight of your upper body so you don't put so much pressure on your hands.
03-20-15, 06:02 AM
#22
Semper Fi
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One thing to offer about your questions on pains, and on proper fit, we have a good forum here, just for this: Fitting Your Bike
If you want to look into solving a few of the issues you mentioned, perhaps asking the questions in this forum would bring you even more input. Many of the participants there are 50+ people, so you could benefit from the same age group's experiences, and get others' input as well.
Also, there is a specific Hybrid Forum you can access, for like riders tips.https://www.bikeforums.net/hybrid-bicycles/.
If you have investigated these forums then apologies for the interruption of the thread. If I might ask, where are you in N. Alabama?
Bill
If you want to look into solving a few of the issues you mentioned, perhaps asking the questions in this forum would bring you even more input. Many of the participants there are 50+ people, so you could benefit from the same age group's experiences, and get others' input as well.
Also, there is a specific Hybrid Forum you can access, for like riders tips.https://www.bikeforums.net/hybrid-bicycles/.
If you have investigated these forums then apologies for the interruption of the thread. If I might ask, where are you in N. Alabama?
Bill
__________________
Semper Fi, USMC, 1975-1977
I Can Do All Things Through Him, Who Gives Me Strength. Philippians 4:13
Semper Fi, USMC, 1975-1977
I Can Do All Things Through Him, Who Gives Me Strength. Philippians 4:13
Last edited by qcpmsame; 03-20-15 at 06:06 AM.
03-20-15, 06:12 AM
#23
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One thing to offer about your questions on pains, and on proper fit, we have a good forum here, just for this: Fitting Your Bike
If you want to look into solving a few of the issues you mentioned, perhaps asking the questions in this forum would bring you even more input. Many of the participants there are 50+ people, so you could benefit from the same age group's experiences, and get others' input as well.
Also, there is a specific Hybrid Forum you can access, for like riders tips.Hybrid Bicycles.
If you have investigated these forums then apologies for the interruption of the thread. If I might ask, where are you in N. Alabama?
Bill
If you want to look into solving a few of the issues you mentioned, perhaps asking the questions in this forum would bring you even more input. Many of the participants there are 50+ people, so you could benefit from the same age group's experiences, and get others' input as well.
Also, there is a specific Hybrid Forum you can access, for like riders tips.Hybrid Bicycles.
If you have investigated these forums then apologies for the interruption of the thread. If I might ask, where are you in N. Alabama?
Bill
03-20-15, 06:45 AM
#24
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It could also be that your center of gravity is too far forward, relative to the BB. When you tilt up, you could also try sliding the saddle backwards by ⅛ inch at a time. That tends to shift weight to your butt and take it off of your hands.
