For the love of English 3 speeds...
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 996
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 457 Post(s)
Liked 462 Times
in
270 Posts
EDIT///. I just saw the thread you have about this bike, I'll read through there and I'm sure my questions will be answered :-)
Last edited by jackbombay; 09-20-20 at 11:18 AM.
Likes For jackbombay:
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Southport, North Carolina, USA & Pevensey, East Sussex, UK
Posts: 309
Bikes: 1)1992 Trek 970, 2)2010 Trek 6500, 3)1973 Colnago Super, 4)1955 Freddie Grubb Meteor. 5)1993 Airborne Ti-Hag Titanium. 6)1936 BSA 602DX Roadster. 7)1957 Philips P2 Sports. 8)1955 Dayton Roadmaster. 9)1948 Humber Clubman. 10) 1949 Sunbeam WA3 Wayfarer
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 157 Post(s)
Liked 85 Times
in
34 Posts
Humber Beeston Clubman 1948 Restoration
The wheels were rebuilt with Stainless Double Butted Spokes by my local Bike Shop Phoenix Cycles, Eastbourne, East Sussex UK. A great traditional bike shop owned and run by great people who know what they are doing.
__________________
Cuius summa inventa
Cuius summa inventa
Full Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Canberra Australia
Posts: 240
Bikes: 30's Speedwell Club Racer, 40's Speedwell 'Z' racer, 50's Unknown Aussie with nice lugs, 50's Speedwell Roadster, 50's Repco Roadster, '63 Raleigh DL-1, 70's Raleigh Sprite, Puch Promenade with Nexus 8
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 149 Post(s)
Liked 30 Times
in
23 Posts
I wish the repro Britannia grips were still being made
Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Central Virginia
Posts: 40
Bikes: 50 and 51 Raleigh Superbe Sports Tourist, 53 Hercules King Coronation Celebration, 55? Automoto roadster, 68 Raleigh Sports, 76 Zebrakenko Wind, 80 Raleigh Tourist, 82 Trek 720, 87 MCycle custom, 90 Specialized Hardrock
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Liked 13 Times
in
7 Posts
From what I’ve read and seen (and admittedly not a really comprehensive or authoritative knowledge base) the bullet or torpedo grips were from ‘60’s or ‘70’s. I’ve looked and looked, and can’t really find anything that matches the original grips from early ‘50’s Raleighs. For my circumstances, I’ll probably do the bullet grips for now (‘cause that’s what I have) and keep looking for something that comes closer to appearance of originals.
www.theheadbadge.com
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Southern Florida
Posts: 28,514
Bikes: https://www.theheadbadge.com
Mentioned: 124 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2422 Post(s)
Liked 4,398 Times
in
2,093 Posts
These are the remains of a pair of original 1950's Raleigh bullet grips:
These reproductions from Thailand are supposed to be fairly similar to the original 1950's grips, minus the "I" in "RI" (Raleigh Industries):
This is the hard plastic replica that Raleigh replaced it with in the 1960's and continued to use off and on through the 1980's:
-Kurt
These reproductions from Thailand are supposed to be fairly similar to the original 1950's grips, minus the "I" in "RI" (Raleigh Industries):
This is the hard plastic replica that Raleigh replaced it with in the 1960's and continued to use off and on through the 1980's:
-Kurt
Newbie
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 16
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
2 Posts
[edit- omg just saw the re-enambled pics. Gorgeous!]
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Southport, North Carolina, USA & Pevensey, East Sussex, UK
Posts: 309
Bikes: 1)1992 Trek 970, 2)2010 Trek 6500, 3)1973 Colnago Super, 4)1955 Freddie Grubb Meteor. 5)1993 Airborne Ti-Hag Titanium. 6)1936 BSA 602DX Roadster. 7)1957 Philips P2 Sports. 8)1955 Dayton Roadmaster. 9)1948 Humber Clubman. 10) 1949 Sunbeam WA3 Wayfarer
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 157 Post(s)
Liked 85 Times
in
34 Posts
Humber Beeston Clubman 1948 Restoration
OMG, I was reading this off the subscription email, and I had to click through for the pics and I started obsessing over those wing-nut looking structures on the hubs, trying to figure out what they were. Are they actual wing-nuts more or less? I'm almost salivating thinking about being able to service or tune hubs with 0 (not 2) wrenches. Glad you found some rims, even if they don't match!
[edit- omg just saw the re-enambled pics. Gorgeous!]
[edit- omg just saw the re-enambled pics. Gorgeous!]
The Dunlop Special Lightweight rims are identical except one is Stainless Steel and the other is Chromium Plated. On the bike it is hard to tell the difference as features and physical dimensions are the same.
Thanks for your comments.
__________________
Cuius summa inventa
Cuius summa inventa
Phyllo-buster
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 8,849
Bikes: roadsters, club bikes, fixed and classic
Mentioned: 133 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2298 Post(s)
Liked 2,056 Times
in
1,256 Posts
The Wing Nuts are original to the bike, they are Sturmey Archer Wing Nuts that were typically fitted to Raleigh Clubman Bikes, they are very well engineered though not much chrome left on them due to age (sometimes they can be found on eBay).
The Dunlop Special Lightweight rims are identical except one is Stainless Steel and the other is Chromium Plated. On the bike it is hard to tell the difference as features and physical dimensions are the same.
Thanks for your comments.
The Dunlop Special Lightweight rims are identical except one is Stainless Steel and the other is Chromium Plated. On the bike it is hard to tell the difference as features and physical dimensions are the same.
Thanks for your comments.
That's a great restoration and story.
Full Member
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 582
Bikes: 1951 Sun Wasp, 1953 Armstrong Consort, 1975 Raleigh Competition, 1980 Apollo Gran Sport, 1988 Schwinn Voyageur, Mystery MTB
Mentioned: 31 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 360 Post(s)
Liked 472 Times
in
192 Posts
Does anyone know a method to improve those awful '70s Raleigh Sports brake levers with the cheapo plastic 'enhancement'? I'm fixing up a colleague's 1978 Sports Superbe in pea-soup green complete with dynohub light system. The levers work very poorly and I am fresh out of old Sports levers.
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Seattle WA
Posts: 2,841
Bikes: 2009 Handsome Devil, 1987 Trek 520 Cirrus, 1978 Motobecane Grand Touring, 1987 Nishiki Cresta GT, 1989 Specialized Allez Former bikes; 1986 Miyata Trail Runner, 1979 Miyata 912, 2011 VO Rando, 1999 Cannondale R800, 1986 Schwinn Passage
Mentioned: 72 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 796 Post(s)
Liked 522 Times
in
367 Posts
Bluestreak, you have to host the images before posting here. I use Flickr.
Does anyone know a method to improve those awful '70s Raleigh Sports brake levers with the cheapo plastic 'enhancement'? I'm fixing up a colleague's 1978 Sports Superbe in pea-soup green complete with dynohub light system. The levers work very poorly and I am fresh out of old Sports levers.
Does anyone know a method to improve those awful '70s Raleigh Sports brake levers with the cheapo plastic 'enhancement'? I'm fixing up a colleague's 1978 Sports Superbe in pea-soup green complete with dynohub light system. The levers work very poorly and I am fresh out of old Sports levers.
I don't host I go directly from my One Drive folder on my laptop
1. click on the picture Icon (upload) in the tool bar near the middle of the toolbar
2. from the dialog box choose browse your device
3.from the options I choose one drive and pictures (where I store my photos YMMV) and then appropriate folder where the picture I want is - I think you can also just drag the picture into the BF dialog box
4. Select the picture and click on the open button which takes you back to BF
5. let the picture load and when it hits 100% hit the upload button -and bingo you have a picture
6. Or just have your Granddaughter show you
sorry not a 3 speed just a sample
Last edited by ryansu; 09-23-20 at 09:33 PM.
Likes For ryansu:
Full Member
Bluestreak, you have to host the images before posting here. I use Flickr.
Does anyone know a method to improve those awful '70s Raleigh Sports brake levers with the cheapo plastic 'enhancement'? I'm fixing up a colleague's 1978 Sports Superbe in pea-soup green complete with dynohub light system. The levers work very poorly and I am fresh out of old Sports levers.
Does anyone know a method to improve those awful '70s Raleigh Sports brake levers with the cheapo plastic 'enhancement'? I'm fixing up a colleague's 1978 Sports Superbe in pea-soup green complete with dynohub light system. The levers work very poorly and I am fresh out of old Sports levers.
I am not sure what you mean by the cheap plastic enhancement. The 73 sports I just finished had automatic adjusters at the levers that were mostly steel, the levers were pretty normal, the same as 50’s bikes. It seemed like an improvement.
Phyllo-buster
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 8,849
Bikes: roadsters, club bikes, fixed and classic
Mentioned: 133 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2298 Post(s)
Liked 2,056 Times
in
1,256 Posts
So I still am clueless. Do I have to put the pics on another site and then transfer them in. Sounds to complex for an old guy.
I am not sure what you mean by the cheap plastic enhancement. The 73 sports I just finished had automatic adjusters at the levers that were mostly steel, the levers were pretty normal, the same as 50’s bikes. It seemed like an improvement.
I am not sure what you mean by the cheap plastic enhancement. The 73 sports I just finished had automatic adjusters at the levers that were mostly steel, the levers were pretty normal, the same as 50’s bikes. It seemed like an improvement.
Oh and the auto adjusters were a nice idea but they pulled in cable faster than it loosened up so the cables became taut and the levers had no travel left. Apparently it's not hard to defeat the mechanism but you'll have to look it up.
Last edited by clubman; 09-24-20 at 06:30 PM.
Bikes are okay, I guess.
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 6,938
Bikes: Waterford Paramount Touring, Giant CFM-2, Raleigh Sports 3-speeds in M23 & L23, Schwinn Cimarron oddball build, Marin Palisades Trail dropbar conversion, Nishiki Cresta GT
Mentioned: 69 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2647 Post(s)
Liked 2,446 Times
in
1,557 Posts
Does anyone know a method to improve those awful '70s Raleigh Sports brake levers with the cheapo plastic 'enhancement'? I'm fixing up a colleague's 1978 Sports Superbe in pea-soup green complete with dynohub light system. The levers work very poorly and I am fresh out of old Sports levers.
Likes For thumpism:
Full Member
Do this. Make a post but before hitting submit reply, scroll down to the Manage Attachments box and click it. It will give you a few choices, one of which is Browse your Device. Do that, find the picture and Bob's your Uncle. It loads a preview window of your pic and then you click Upload, then Submit Reply.
Oh and the auto adjusters were a nice idea but they pulled in cable faster than it loosened up so the cables became taut and the levers had no travel left. Apparently it's not hard to defeat the mechanism but you'll have to look it up.
Oh and the auto adjusters were a nice idea but they pulled in cable faster than it loosened up so the cables became taut and the levers had no travel left. Apparently it's not hard to defeat the mechanism but you'll have to look it up.
My granddaughter has the bike now so we’ll find out if the adjusters work ok, if she uses the bike. I backed them up the whole way before I hooked up the brakes.
Phyllo-buster
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 8,849
Bikes: roadsters, club bikes, fixed and classic
Mentioned: 133 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2298 Post(s)
Liked 2,056 Times
in
1,256 Posts
Perhaps you're looking at the site in mobile mode. If you open the User CP and scroll to the bottom, there's a box with a choice of display modes. I like BikeforumsNG
Full Member
Standard Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Brunswick, Maine
Posts: 4,280
Bikes: 1948 P. Barnard & Son, 1962 Rudge Sports, 1963 Freddie Grubb Routier, 1980 Manufrance Hirondelle, 1983 F. Moser Sprint, 1989 Raleigh Technium Pre, 2001 Raleigh M80
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1301 Post(s)
Liked 942 Times
in
490 Posts
Remove Rear Basket Support from S.A 3-Speed Hub?
I just bought my first English 3-speed bicycle, a 1962 Rudge Sports. It's going to take a lot of cleaning and polishing,
but what I need to do right now is take the steel shopping baskets off the back. The question I have concerns the
connection where the "plunger" enters the hub. That enters from the outside of the securing axle nut, of course,
so it appears I have to make some accommodation for the plunger mechanism before I can remove the axle nut
and basket with it. What's the drill on this?
but what I need to do right now is take the steel shopping baskets off the back. The question I have concerns the
connection where the "plunger" enters the hub. That enters from the outside of the securing axle nut, of course,
so it appears I have to make some accommodation for the plunger mechanism before I can remove the axle nut
and basket with it. What's the drill on this?
Phyllo-buster
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 8,849
Bikes: roadsters, club bikes, fixed and classic
Mentioned: 133 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2298 Post(s)
Liked 2,056 Times
in
1,256 Posts
I just bought my first English 3-speed bicycle, a 1962 Rudge Sports. It's going to take a lot of cleaning and polishing,
but what I need to do right now is take the steel shopping baskets off the back. The question I have concerns the
connection where the "plunger" enters the hub. That enters from the outside of the securing axle nut, of course,
so it appears I have to make some accommodation for the plunger mechanism before I can remove the axle nut
and basket with it. What's the drill on this?
but what I need to do right now is take the steel shopping baskets off the back. The question I have concerns the
connection where the "plunger" enters the hub. That enters from the outside of the securing axle nut, of course,
so it appears I have to make some accommodation for the plunger mechanism before I can remove the axle nut
and basket with it. What's the drill on this?
Standard Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Brunswick, Maine
Posts: 4,280
Bikes: 1948 P. Barnard & Son, 1962 Rudge Sports, 1963 Freddie Grubb Routier, 1980 Manufrance Hirondelle, 1983 F. Moser Sprint, 1989 Raleigh Technium Pre, 2001 Raleigh M80
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1301 Post(s)
Liked 942 Times
in
490 Posts
Clubman: Thanks. I got that done.
Standard Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Brunswick, Maine
Posts: 4,280
Bikes: 1948 P. Barnard & Son, 1962 Rudge Sports, 1963 Freddie Grubb Routier, 1980 Manufrance Hirondelle, 1983 F. Moser Sprint, 1989 Raleigh Technium Pre, 2001 Raleigh M80
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1301 Post(s)
Liked 942 Times
in
490 Posts
AW Sprocket Circlip Loose
I have just bought a Rudge Sports from 1962, and upon inspection of the rear hub, I see that the sprocket is loose and the sprocket circlip has apparently fallen out of its retaining ring. Is that what I'm seeing? What is the best way to get that circlip back on to secure the sprocket?
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Cambridge UK
Posts: 852
Bikes: 1903 24 spd Sunbeam, 1927 Humber, 3 1930 Raleighs, 2 1940s Sunbeams, 2 1940s Raleighs, Rudge, 1950s Robin Hood, 1958 Claud Butler, 2 1973 Colnago Supers, Eddie Merckx, 2 1980 Holdsworth, EG Bates funny TT bike, another 6 or so 1990s bikes
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 331 Post(s)
Liked 332 Times
in
185 Posts
Spacer - the final frontier
You are missing the spaces behind the sprocket. Pack it out - one or two spacers will give the circlip a snap.
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Cambridge UK
Posts: 852
Bikes: 1903 24 spd Sunbeam, 1927 Humber, 3 1930 Raleighs, 2 1940s Sunbeams, 2 1940s Raleighs, Rudge, 1950s Robin Hood, 1958 Claud Butler, 2 1973 Colnago Supers, Eddie Merckx, 2 1980 Holdsworth, EG Bates funny TT bike, another 6 or so 1990s bikes
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 331 Post(s)
Liked 332 Times
in
185 Posts
Plunger
The 'plungers is called an indicator. Its position in or out indicates what gear you are in.The whole assembly screws out very easily. Screwed out means the wheel/wheel nuts can be removed like any other wheel.
Standard Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Brunswick, Maine
Posts: 4,280
Bikes: 1948 P. Barnard & Son, 1962 Rudge Sports, 1963 Freddie Grubb Routier, 1980 Manufrance Hirondelle, 1983 F. Moser Sprint, 1989 Raleigh Technium Pre, 2001 Raleigh M80
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1301 Post(s)
Liked 942 Times
in
490 Posts
Johno59: Thanks. Regarding the rear basket removal, I was not expecting it to be that easy. I just hope I turned the adjusting nut on the indicator
into the right position once I re-attached it.
Regarding the sprocket being loose, I don't follow you. You are saying I need to buy some spacers?
into the right position once I re-attached it.
Regarding the sprocket being loose, I don't follow you. You are saying I need to buy some spacers?