AXIS 2.0 Rear Wheel Upgrade Recommendations, Please.

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08-05-19, 08:19 AM

#26

topflightpro

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Quote:

Originally Posted by DOS

My stems pop right out without a tool as the nuts that hold them in place only need to be finger tight. Was there corrosion involved?

I was kind of wondering about that too. I've had a tubeless set up on my MTB for nearly 15 years. Never had problems like those described.

08-05-19, 08:36 AM

#27

Abe_Froman

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A couple things.

All wheels have the same comfort. Unless they are broken, or poorly built/grossly undertensioned. Then they'll flex. And MIGHT be more comfortable, up until the point they taco and you collapse in a ditch with a broken leg. Which is definitely LESS comfortable.

Tires/tire pressure is by and large the greatest determiner of comfort. Not the wheels, not the frame, not the bar tape/seatpost. Dropping PSI by 5-10 pounds easily cancels out the maximum cumulative impact of all other possible changes you could make. Aside from replacing your frame with a full suspension mountain bike frame I suppose.

So that being said...if the main concern is comfort, and getting back on the road without spending a ton...just replace your rim. As someone mentioned before, if you get a replica of the rim that cracked, you can keep your existing hub and spokes, and just build in the new rim. If you're willing to take a stab at it on your own, all you need is a $10 spoke wrench and a dab or two of grease. Or many shops will do the work for you for $50 or so.

08-05-19, 01:44 PM

#28

Ataylor

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Quote:

Originally Posted by topflightpro

OP, you cannot put a Shimano/Sram cassette on a Campy freehub. You can run an 11-sp Campy cassette though.

Thanks!

Quote:

Originally Posted by topflightpro

If you need something now, take a look at Shimano Ultegra wheels. You can find a set for $300 or so. They're pretty solid, spin great, and are tubeless. They aren't the lightest or widest wheels, but they will work fine.

Thank you. I'll look into them following this post.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DOS

If rollingresistance.com is to be believed, you achieve some rolling resistance benefit over comparable clincher with a standard tube, but I could achive the same result using latex tubes. The main benefit to me, aside from savings from not having to buy latex tubes, is ride quality. I ride at significantLy lower pressure on tubeless because I have no worries about pinch flats, which makes for a more plush ride.

Whether you go tubeless or not, go with a wider rim than standard road rims... >17mm internal width .. they are more aero and you will achieve rolling resistance benefit.

Thanks!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Abe_Froman

I looked on eBay and couldn't find a new rim and don't want to buy a used one (seeing as how it might be damaged and I wouldn't know how tell if it was or wasn't), so I think I'm just going to pick up an entirely new wheelset. More money, but potentially and probably less headache all around on my end.