Handlebars for touring
11-16-20, 09:21 AM
#26
Senior Member
I tried flared "On One Midge" bars once on my "gravel" touring bike (a BG Rock'n'Road). They did improve comfort and control in the drops slightly but it was at the expense of comfort on the hoods. The canted hoods made me squirmy and that's my primary position. I replaced the Midge bars with more conventional Salsa Cowbells with just a slight flare. I installed cross top (interrupter) brake levers for more powerful MTB like braking leverage from the tops. My hands are too small and neck is too weak for extended braking at the drops.
11-16-20, 09:36 AM
#27
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re head winds, one advantage of flared out dropbars are that if dealing with strong head or gusty sidewinds , the added leverage makes things a little easier dealing with a heavy touring bike that is being blown here and there and having to deal with traffic or keeping off the edge of the road.
Sure, doesn't happen that often, but something I've appreciated very much each time I've had to ride through this sort of thing.
and as already mentioned, and shown by the whole gravel bike craze, wider stance drops are nice on a gravelly descent, again--especially on a heavy touring bike.
Sure, doesn't happen that often, but something I've appreciated very much each time I've had to ride through this sort of thing.
and as already mentioned, and shown by the whole gravel bike craze, wider stance drops are nice on a gravelly descent, again--especially on a heavy touring bike.
These days, as well as wide stances, the flair and shallow drop in some bars really helps someone who doesn't want to go into a full tuck with them. I've swapped out such bars on two of my road bikes now. The shallow drop means you don't compress the perineum as much on a touring saddle changing between hoods and drops.
Generally the nose of the saddle is adjusted to the position one rides the most and when changing on a deeper drop bar the distance change can make that uncomfortable by either causing one to slide forward or compress the perineum. I find a slight flair also aligns the wrists a bit more naturally and allows easier access to the levers. If with a wider stance but no flair, I find the wrist needs to bend a bit to work the brake levers in the drops.
Last edited by Happy Feet; 11-16-20 at 09:40 AM.
11-16-20, 02:12 PM
#28
Senior Member
Just to add to that.
These days, as well as wide stances, the flair and shallow drop in some bars really helps someone who doesn't want to go into a full tuck with them. I've swapped out such bars on two of my road bikes now. The shallow drop means you don't compress the perineum as much on a touring saddle changing between hoods and drops.
Generally the nose of the saddle is adjusted to the position one rides the most and when changing on a deeper drop bar the distance change can make that uncomfortable by either causing one to slide forward or compress the perineum. I find a slight flair also aligns the wrists a bit more naturally and allows easier access to the levers. If with a wider stance but no flair, I find the wrist needs to bend a bit to work the brake levers in the drops.
These days, as well as wide stances, the flair and shallow drop in some bars really helps someone who doesn't want to go into a full tuck with them. I've swapped out such bars on two of my road bikes now. The shallow drop means you don't compress the perineum as much on a touring saddle changing between hoods and drops.
Generally the nose of the saddle is adjusted to the position one rides the most and when changing on a deeper drop bar the distance change can make that uncomfortable by either causing one to slide forward or compress the perineum. I find a slight flair also aligns the wrists a bit more naturally and allows easier access to the levers. If with a wider stance but no flair, I find the wrist needs to bend a bit to work the brake levers in the drops.
I really like that on my troll I can quite comfortably ride in the drops, and these points happy brought up are clearly part of the reason. Having the bars at seat level also plays a part, and also look at my bars and how the ends of the drops (with the black hockey tape) are set back towards the rider"--- this also makes for a comfortable drops position, one I like sometimes simply to stretch my back.
11-16-20, 02:16 PM
#29
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I tried flared "On One Midge" bars once on my "gravel" touring bike (a BG Rock'n'Road). They did improve comfort and control in the drops slightly but it was at the expense of comfort on the hoods. The canted hoods made me squirmy and that's my primary position. I replaced the Midge bars with more conventional Salsa Cowbells with just a slight flare. I installed cross top (interrupter) brake levers for more powerful MTB like braking leverage from the tops. My hands are too small and neck is too weak for extended braking at the drops.
11-16-20, 05:11 PM
#30
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One other issue on drop bars vs flat (or straight or upright) bars is how comfortable you are when you are leaning fairly far forward.
I used the drops maybe 5 percent of the time over a decade ago. Then I lost about 15 percent of my body weight and now fit into a slimmer pants size. Suddenly riding in the drops is a lot more comfortable, now I use the drops maybe 25 to 35 percent of the time.
Top of my drop bars is about even with the top of my saddle, to up to about a cm below the top of saddle.
I used the drops maybe 5 percent of the time over a decade ago. Then I lost about 15 percent of my body weight and now fit into a slimmer pants size. Suddenly riding in the drops is a lot more comfortable, now I use the drops maybe 25 to 35 percent of the time.
Top of my drop bars is about even with the top of my saddle, to up to about a cm below the top of saddle.
11-16-20, 09:15 PM
#31
Full Member
Here’s What I Like
I like 48cm wide flared drop bars, shallow drop with the brake levers canted in a bit. My touring drop bars have some rise to get the bar a bit higher for comfort. Flat bars even with bar ends and trekking bars make my hands and wrists hurt.
11-16-20, 11:23 PM
#32
Senior Member
I grew up on drop bars, but then as the girth grew, the bars became uncomfortable. I went to butterfly (trekking) bars, with numerous hand positions, but was not adjustable enough, plus the close hand position can get scary on severe down hills.
Finally settled on flat bars with these bar ends. Very adjustable. In fact over the last few years, I've made a number of adjustments depending on load, terrain and weather.
Ergotec
Finally settled on flat bars with these bar ends. Very adjustable. In fact over the last few years, I've made a number of adjustments depending on load, terrain and weather.
Ergotec
11-17-20, 02:57 AM
#33
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I tried flared "On One Midge" bars once on my "gravel" touring bike (a BG Rock'n'Road). They did improve comfort and control in the drops slightly but it was at the expense of comfort on the hoods. The canted hoods made me squirmy and that's my primary position. I replaced the Midge bars with more conventional Salsa Cowbells with just a slight flare. I installed cross top (interrupter) brake levers for more powerful MTB like braking leverage from the tops. My hands are too small and neck is too weak for extended braking at the drops.
==
Hood shape also influences bar shape the flat ramp on modern bars that feeds into the long flat hoods of modern STI/Ergo don't work as well with older style "aero" brake levers all IMHO of course.
11-17-20, 11:23 AM
#34
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I have always had drop-bars. My newest bicycle, 2020 Kona Sutra, came with very flared drop-bars, which, after getting to test the bicycle on my own time, I've decided that I will switch to conventional drop-bars. The flaring takes away from the aero benefit of conventional drops, at least for me.
My next bicycle will be a folding 20-incher. I will be putting drop-bars on it as early as I can. My hope is to use it for my main touring rig.
I've tried a bicycle with flat bars, briefly. I see no advantages with them for the riding that I do, only disadvantages.
My next bicycle will be a folding 20-incher. I will be putting drop-bars on it as early as I can. My hope is to use it for my main touring rig.
I've tried a bicycle with flat bars, briefly. I see no advantages with them for the riding that I do, only disadvantages.
Last edited by Nyah; 12-09-20 at 09:06 PM. Reason: I can't recommend disc brakes on bicycles that use QR-skewers. Those are a scam. Only thru-axles should be used with disc b
11-17-20, 12:09 PM
#35
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Wouldn't a flat bar especially on a folding bike be at an advantage there? I mean, when folding it for travel?
11-17-20, 01:01 PM
#36
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If the kind of travel you're referring to would be on planes/trains in which the bicycle is stowed in a cargo hold, then yes. If I ever choose to do that, I can merely disassemble the drop-handlebars from the rest of it (Bike Friday bicycles work the same way). My primary intent though is to travel by bicycle so, I plan to optimize it for riding rather than for the narrowest possible quick-fold. There are still many benefits to enjoy by having it be a folding bicycle.
Last edited by Nyah; 12-09-20 at 09:08 PM.
11-17-20, 01:20 PM
#37
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In that case, I can't see the point of a folding bike. I'd choose a mini-velo then (I already have such a thing that can separate if really needed, but it takes tools).
I don't think a folding bike would last me very long. They all seem to have exceptionally long steerers putting a lot of stress on the bearings.
My mini-velo is a Dahon Smooth Hound, but if I were to do it again, I'd get something that would take a belt and a Rohloff, discs, and BMX tyres. Something with the same frame shape of either the Cannondale Hooligan or the Velo Orange Neutrino and set up as a bike-backing setup somehow. Neither of those two takes a belt unless you can find someone to weld in a "break" in the stay.
There's a bloke on youtube who travels around the world (as in go somewhere and then use his Brompton). Hang on, see I can find it.
Here it is, the channel is called "Brompton Traveler":
https://www.youtube.com/user/gfilip
I don't think a folding bike would last me very long. They all seem to have exceptionally long steerers putting a lot of stress on the bearings.
My mini-velo is a Dahon Smooth Hound, but if I were to do it again, I'd get something that would take a belt and a Rohloff, discs, and BMX tyres. Something with the same frame shape of either the Cannondale Hooligan or the Velo Orange Neutrino and set up as a bike-backing setup somehow. Neither of those two takes a belt unless you can find someone to weld in a "break" in the stay.
There's a bloke on youtube who travels around the world (as in go somewhere and then use his Brompton). Hang on, see I can find it.
Here it is, the channel is called "Brompton Traveler":
https://www.youtube.com/user/gfilip
11-17-20, 01:29 PM
#38
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That said, if others like them, great. I just think not for me.
11-17-20, 01:47 PM
#39
Senior Member
I dunno guys, I guess it depends on how much flare you're talking about, but our lard ass touring bikes with panniers and crap sticking out all over the place are the least aero things on two wheels in my experience, so my slightly flared out cowbells are certainly not an issue---I do get the idea, but just not really sure its a real issue with our panniers on.
I do think though that how much flareout could be a factor though.
Check out the salsa website, they will give the varying degrees and maybe even a graph overlaying the various models.
I do think though that how much flareout could be a factor though.
Check out the salsa website, they will give the varying degrees and maybe even a graph overlaying the various models.
11-17-20, 02:31 PM
#41
Senior Member
thanks bob for the visuals. Ya, I hummed and hawwed looking back on it, whatever 4 or so years ago, and was tempted by the cowchippers, but am glad I didnt go that route, simply from it being easier getting my touring bike through hotel doors and all that stuff.
I guess I'd have to live with a more flared out bar to really know, but I can say that the slight flare of the cowbells,along with the steering characteristics of my 26in wheeled Troll, give it a fun steering feel. Nice when in the drops going downhill and weaving in and out of big potholes or whatever, or even just going around corners fast, which I loooooove doing.
btw, there are lots of other flared out bars now, so I suspect there are lots of other options from other brands. The cowbells were about 70 or 75 bucks Canuck, so a reasonable price all in all.
I guess I'd have to live with a more flared out bar to really know, but I can say that the slight flare of the cowbells,along with the steering characteristics of my 26in wheeled Troll, give it a fun steering feel. Nice when in the drops going downhill and weaving in and out of big potholes or whatever, or even just going around corners fast, which I loooooove doing.
btw, there are lots of other flared out bars now, so I suspect there are lots of other options from other brands. The cowbells were about 70 or 75 bucks Canuck, so a reasonable price all in all.
11-17-20, 02:45 PM
#42
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I just picked up these for my Spesh Allez. https://www.specialized.com/ca/en/ho...ext=21018-3038
11-17-20, 03:32 PM
#43
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I just picked up these for my Spesh Allez. https://www.specialized.com/ca/en/ho...ext=21018-3038
12 degrees, same as cowbells I think
11-17-20, 07:38 PM
#44
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I was trying to decide what to do about this bike, as the stock bars had too long a reach for me. In the first pic you can see that, if one rotates the bars forward so the drops are more parallel to the ground and usable the hoods are pretty far away and down. Problem being the quill stem couldn't raise more and would only accept a narrow diameter bar. The best case was a pair I saw on VO but I'm not sure about the shipping to Canada.
I saw these adventure bars in the LBS and even though they were 31.8 they ticked all the boxes in every other regard. Had a threadess adapter in my parts bin and when I also spied the charcoal bar tape I bit the bullet. Back home I removed the black adonizing around the middle area and voila! I will eventually replace the CF rings with something more polished aluminum in colour.
I saw these adventure bars in the LBS and even though they were 31.8 they ticked all the boxes in every other regard. Had a threadess adapter in my parts bin and when I also spied the charcoal bar tape I bit the bullet. Back home I removed the black adonizing around the middle area and voila! I will eventually replace the CF rings with something more polished aluminum in colour.
Last edited by Happy Feet; 11-17-20 at 07:48 PM.
11-17-20, 08:07 PM
#46
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I was trying to decide what to do about this bike, as the stock bars had too long a reach for me. In the first pic you can see that, if one rotates the bars forward so the drops are more parallel to the ground and usable the hoods are pretty far away and down. Problem being the quill stem couldn't raise more and would only accept a narrow diameter bar. The best case was a pair I saw on VO but I'm not sure about the shipping to Canada.
11-17-20, 08:34 PM
#47
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Yep 1993. $170CAD off FB marketplace. I was a bit dubious but turned out the seller was a lady who used to do triathlons and then kept it in the garage for 20 years or so.
They are Sakae Modolo's 41cm. Not a bad bar but I prefer a horizontal hoods position which makes the drops canted a bit too forward for a secure grip. Even the new bars in the pic could still be rotated forward a bit to true horizontal. Still fine tuning.
They are Sakae Modolo's 41cm. Not a bad bar but I prefer a horizontal hoods position which makes the drops canted a bit too forward for a secure grip. Even the new bars in the pic could still be rotated forward a bit to true horizontal. Still fine tuning.
Last edited by Happy Feet; 11-17-20 at 08:40 PM.
11-17-20, 09:55 PM
#48
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Yep 1993. $170CAD off FB marketplace. I was a bit dubious but turned out the seller was a lady who used to do triathlons and then kept it in the garage for 20 years or so.
They are Sakae Modolo's 41cm. Not a bad bar but I prefer a horizontal hoods position which makes the drops canted a bit too forward for a secure grip. Even the new bars in the pic could still be rotated forward a bit to true horizontal. Still fine tuning.
They are Sakae Modolo's 41cm. Not a bad bar but I prefer a horizontal hoods position which makes the drops canted a bit too forward for a secure grip. Even the new bars in the pic could still be rotated forward a bit to true horizontal. Still fine tuning.
And yes, I almost responded about rotating those bars more. Don't forget that you can change hoods position on bars too, yes a pain because of bar tape, but fine tuning is always worth the time. In the blue photo of my troll, the hoods were too high then, later moved them down a bit, made a real difference.
11-18-20, 05:37 AM
#49
Senior Member
Use the bars you are comfortable with. For me that means drop bars. I can't see myself choosing anything else for a road tour and even for an off road one I might go with drops.
11-18-20, 06:37 AM
#50
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I just picked up these for my Spesh Allez. https://www.specialized.com/ca/en/ho...ext=21018-3038
https://us.ritcheylogic.com/us_en/bi...omax-handlebar
on my drop-bar conversion Trek 970 now touring bike..and toured with them..works for me..I like them. 12 degree flare,5 degree sweep, 10mm rise, flat-tops, less than $50
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