Drop Bars: How wide is too wide?
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Drop Bars: How wide is too wide?
My bike fitter recommended I get 44cm on my bikes. Aside from aerodynamics which I'm not too concerned about, Is there any reason not to go for 46cm for more comfort?
#2
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On my loaded touting bike, with 4 panniers I went wider.. leverage for that mass..
Nitto 48.. On Bike tours I spend most time on the tops not brake hoods YMMV
but the classic width test, road bike coaching, matches your shoulder's width,
so it's up to you. do as you see fit.
...
Nitto 48.. On Bike tours I spend most time on the tops not brake hoods YMMV
but the classic width test, road bike coaching, matches your shoulder's width,
so it's up to you. do as you see fit.
...
Last edited by fietsbob; 05-29-18 at 11:17 AM.
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How much have you been riding?
How tall/"Big" are you?
I think mountain bikers like wide bars, but I'm not at all sure they're called for on road bikes.
How tall/"Big" are you?
I think mountain bikers like wide bars, but I'm not at all sure they're called for on road bikes.
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Drop bars and flat MTB bars position your arm and shoulder joint differently. For elbows down (drop bar position), your really don't want to go much wider than your shoulder width because you are pushing the shoulder joint closer to its limits. The classic bar width formula gives you a bar that is good for your shoulders and wide enough to not interfere with breathing, though going narrower is rarely a problem.
If I had 44cm shoulders, I would not get 46cm drop bars to avoid shoulder damage/discomfort.
You aren't going to benefit from the tiny difference in leverage.
If I had 44cm shoulders, I would not get 46cm drop bars to avoid shoulder damage/discomfort.
You aren't going to benefit from the tiny difference in leverage.
#5
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When choosing a new bar, be careful with the manufacturer's given measurements. After a fitting, it was recommended I get 42cm or "maybe" 44cm bars. I opted for 42, but the 42cm trek bars I bought are actually measured *center to center,* rather than outside to outside, meaning they actually ended up being pretty much 44cm wide. It's fine, I actually do have broad shoulders, but I think I really preferred the trek "40cm" bars because they were *actually* closer to 42cm in the first place.
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When choosing a new bar, be careful with the manufacturer's given measurements. After a fitting, it was recommended I get 42cm or "maybe" 44cm bars. I opted for 42, but the 42cm trek bars I bought are actually measured *center to center,* rather than outside to outside, meaning they actually ended up being pretty much 44cm wide. It's fine, I actually do have broad shoulders, but I think I really preferred the trek "40cm" bars because they were *actually* closer to 42cm in the first place.
For example I have a 46CM Thomson bar (no flare/sweep)...that is as wide on the hooks as my flared Salsa Cowbell. Both are comfy, then again I have broad shoulders.
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When choosing a new bar, be careful with the manufacturer's given measurements. After a fitting, it was recommended I get 42cm or "maybe" 44cm bars. I opted for 42, but the 42cm trek bars I bought are actually measured *center to center,* rather than outside to outside, meaning they actually ended up being pretty much 44cm wide. It's fine, I actually do have broad shoulders, but I think I really preferred the trek "40cm" bars because they were *actually* closer to 42cm in the first place.
So you're on bars 2cm narrower than recommended.
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Drop bars and flat MTB bars position your arm and shoulder joint differently. For elbows down (drop bar position), your really don't want to go much wider than your shoulder width because you are pushing the shoulder joint closer to its limits. The classic bar width formula gives you a bar that is good for your shoulders and wide enough to not interfere with breathing, though going narrower is rarely a problem.
If I had 44cm shoulders, I would not get 46cm drop bars to avoid shoulder damage/discomfort.
You aren't going to benefit from the tiny difference in leverage.
If I had 44cm shoulders, I would not get 46cm drop bars to avoid shoulder damage/discomfort.
You aren't going to benefit from the tiny difference in leverage.
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Wider isn't more comfortable. You want your arms to be parallel to the bike centerline, hence bars of shoulder width. You need very little leverage to operate a road bike or road motorcycle. My bars on our tandem are the same width as the bars on my road bike.
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I ride 38cm on the road and 44cm for cross, 42cm for gravel. I was fitted for 42cm bars the last time I was fit, but discussed the tradeoffs with the fitter.
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I'd rather the bars be narrower than wider. But I've only ridden road. Don't know what might be different if it was on a cross bike on fairly rough conditions.
If I were to size based on shoulder width of 17.25 then I'd be on 44 cm bars. But I prefer my 38 cm bars on my Raleigh though I've been riding 42 cm bars on my Paramount the most lately. Not a big difference but I can't see wanting wider. I don't like my hand being that far out when one handed on the brake/shifter and trying to get a drink.
If you haven't already, be sure you discuss why with the fitter. They might know something about you that we don't.
If I were to size based on shoulder width of 17.25 then I'd be on 44 cm bars. But I prefer my 38 cm bars on my Raleigh though I've been riding 42 cm bars on my Paramount the most lately. Not a big difference but I can't see wanting wider. I don't like my hand being that far out when one handed on the brake/shifter and trying to get a drink.
If you haven't already, be sure you discuss why with the fitter. They might know something about you that we don't.
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