NoGears

I recently purchased a DiamondBack Release 3. Very nice bike. The rear shock is a RockShox Monarch Plus RC3 DebonAir. At only 265 pounds (275-ish riding weight) I'd think the shock could handle my weight better. Set at 300psi (max is 350 psi) and 4 volume reducers I cannot get sag above 40% and have to ride with the shock locked out and I still use more than 50% of the travel locked out with some very noticeable pedal bob. I don't have a pump that will go higher than 300 psi though I'm going to get one...but I just wouldn't think I'd need to go higher anyways.

So for you heavy weights riding full suspension...post up your weight and shock setup. I'm considering looking into a coil setup or I've been told that the Manitou McLeod may be better suited for my weight. I am in the process of losing weight...I let things with my diet get out of hand but I'm back in the swing of things so I should be down to 250-ish by end of September. So maybe those 15 pounds will make a big difference in the performance of the shock?

brawlo

Try the MTBR forums. There is a fairly active clyde/tall rider subforum in there where you may get the answers you need

cyccommute 

Hate to say this but you got the wrong bike. I've had similar problems with that kind of shock and linkage in the past. Pumped up to as high as it would go, I just couldn't stop the bike from bobbing. I'm reasonably certain that this is more of an issue than most people will acknowledge given discussions I've had with other dual suspension owners.

My solution was to buy a Specialized Epic frame. That is what I wanted in the first place but got talked into an FSR. The instead. The difference was (and is) night and day. Climbing, riding on the flats. out of the saddle, or even riding on pavement, there is zero bob and the bike rides and responds like a hardtail. As soon as there is an impact from below, the inertial valve opens and the rear end gets and stays active until things get smooth again.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but you might just have to live with the bobbing, even after losing weight.

jsigone

If I can recall, most shocks are set to 20-30% sag under full weight.

MTB shocks is an art of give or take. The happy medium only works for select trails before having to fiddle with compression speed.

What are you putting for negative air on the front shock? Specs says it comes with the PIKE RCt3 which is usper top of class and made fore jumping, hucks, don't crash $hit. Not for a nice pedal around the grass park.

If it is the PIKE, the user manual found online looks like it psi is half the rider weight. Max PSI ranges from 163psi for solo airs and 248psi for dual air chambers. 200+ riders needs 115psi. If you have a negaitve chamber, start at -5 to 10psi from positive chamber.
-----from this alone you are already beyond the specs if your on the PIKE. Anymore will blow out the seals, hell even what you have now will blow out the seals if you hit a rock or curb at the right angle.

A coil system will be harder to fine tune and will have more pedal BOB. Full suspension jumping bike will always have pedal bob, this the give or take part of selecting bikes. Slower to pedal but rips on the downhills. Cross country bikes have less to zero bob but is bit slower on the decents and not made for jumping more then 3ft stuff.

DMC707

If the leverage ratio is too high, which is a factor of frame and linkage design and is non adjustable -- you will find yourself using a lot more air --