Metieval

tires don't just spontaneously explode!

If that is your argument....
THEN: you first need to prove they never damaged the tire, they never had too much PSI, they never used faulty tire levers, jacks, or anything else. etc......

honestly you really have no idea other than what you were told. None of us do.

Psych_on_bike

A few notes on the Rat Trap Pass. Having been through a few, I’ve learned some lessons. 1) scary fast on gravel. You don’t feel the speed, and then you’re passing everyone until that T intersection…… 2) They either air up and hold or they don’t. I was going to try to get a warranty before I tried a last ditch hack: diluted Panaracer sealant for sidewall leaks. Yup. Worked like a charm. 3) If you run them below 30 psi tubeless you’ll go very far without excessive wear or flats. The contact patch should be about 1 inch wide. Narrower and your weight is all on a thin bit of rubber, and you’ll bounce. 4) They can be sketchy on a steep crown as they auto steer. 5)I’ve patched large holes from the inside (had to work an extra shift to afford these) with great results. 5) The ride is sublime

base2 

Revisiting a 2-1/2 year dormant thread...
I have found Compass tires and the Panaracer tires too, for that matter fit very loose on Velocity rims. The solution is to fill the valley with a few rounds of 13mm or 16mm Velox, then to wrap the rim in the usual manner with 2+ rounds of rim tape. Filling the valley limits the air loss on initial inflation so that the tire can be inflated. The extra rounds of rim tape keep the bead tight. A good installation should "pop-pop" into place.

Compass tires are much more susceptible to sidewall ooze. If this is a problem, even with good thick sealant, dismount the tire, clean it, and smear on a bit of Shoo-Goo over the problem area.

Sidewall ooze is much more likely if a Compass tire was first inflated or used in a tubed application. You can always go back to tubes but you can't start with tubes.

The thin, porous sidewalls also mean the sealant will dry out quickly. So, check your sealant often. It's easy. Pull the valve core, use an old spoke as a dipstick & proceed accordingly.

Darts are easy to use. In the span of time since this thread started, I've only needed to use one.

For tubeless, I run 30-35psi on 54mm tires, 40-45psi on 44mm tires, 45-50 psi on 38mm tires, and 85psi on skinny 25's. I don't know what the OP was on about. 50psi is a damn lot.

Worth the hype.

rpthomas I'm curious how the OP's situation resolved...Re-rim the wheel? New wheel? LBS mechanic error? Still on tubeless or has that train left the station?

Kapusta

well, since this thread got revived anyway I may as well follow up this previous post.

I did end up setting up these Barlow Pass tubless. Everything set up fine and was good for maybe 1000 or so miles.

But then they started leaking air and sealant, I assume through the side walls as they were always weeping. I went through more sealant in these tires than my mountain bike and fat by put together. These tires still have a lot of life in tread. I ended up sticking tubes back in them.

As far as durability, I found these to be perfectly fine. The tread has got a decent thickness to it, and I have gotten no more flats with these than any other tire. I’ve never damage the sidewall in any of the extralights.

I think what it comes down to is you just can’t have sidewalls this then and supple and still be able to do tubeless well.

cyclezen

mepps... didn't check the date...

Polaris OBark

I use their recommended Panaracer sealant for the initial set-up, which will take a lot and seals the side walls, and then top off with (compatible) Orange Seal Endurance after a couple of months.

Polaris OBark

The main problem with using Barlows (or similar) tubeless is that if anything you wind up having to inflate them a bit more (to a higher pressure) than with tubes, primarily because the tires are so supple that they have no sidewall support, and will collapse in a turn at lower pressure. This negates one of the claimed advantages of tubeless, i.e., being able to run at lower pressure.

It is possible that tires experiencing side-wall leaking 1000 miles after mounting are having this kind of breakdown. You can see a black cross-hatching pattern develop if you have tan sidewalls and they are under-inflated.

dwmckee

I have been running Compass/Rene Herse tires on at least one bike for eight years now and have never had a problem. They are excellent tires though they are not super durable. I mostly ride 38MM at 35 - 38 PSI and I weigh 210 (pounds not stones!). 50 PSI is WAY too high to get any enjoyment out of those tires. You should be trying around 32-33 PSI and work down from there.

Kapusta

This was not my experience running them with tubes versus tubeless.

Polaris OBark

I used to do that, too. Here is what the Rene Herse tire pressure calculator says (I guessed 235 pounds for fully kitted rider plus bike):

t2p

I would not ride up and down my driveway with just 32-33 lbs at 200+ lbs

Polaris OBark

I've run them a lot lower, and I don't weigh in much less. They are fine for the most part, but they do wallow if under-inflated, and they have some sidewall markings where they fold.

Ghazmh

At 180lbs I’ve got the very same tires on my gravel bike and at 40 PSI they felt awfully squirrelly and cornering was downright scary. I find that closer to 60 PSI and they feel terrific.

mstateglfr 

Interesting. I weigh 215# and Silca says a 38mm gravel tire should be 43.5psi rear and 41.5psi front.
It shows my 43mm tires should even be inflated a bit higher than what you set your 38s at.

I definitely inflate more than the current trend and even what inset my 43mm tires at(45psi) is at the limit for what feels goof overall on pavement and gravel. The ride gets all drifty and rolly when I go under 35psi.

Always intersting to see how each of us rides

Kapusta

I’m 175 lbs. for mixed gravel and pavement, I run my Barlows around 38/44 front/rear. Rims are 23mm internal width.

Lower than that and the front is starting to get squirmy on paved corners, and the rear risks rim strikes on bad pavement (potholes or uneven seams).

For just gravel I will go 5 psi lower each end, but I am mindful of what I am hitting.

Chilepines

I’m 170 lb and running RH Hurricane Ridge 700x42 Extralight in the low 30s. At 35 they feel firm, a little lower and they feel sublime. And with Orange Seal Endurance they stopped weeping in about a minute.
Back to the issue of tubeless standards (I posted this a couple months ago in a different thread) I had a Specialized Sawtooth blow off a Light Bicycle hookless carbon rim inflated to 65 psi - luckily not while we were on the tandem. I’ve run them at 55 since and no blowout. Having said that, I’m just not convinced anymore that tubeless has much advantage unless you are running pretty low pressures.