Look vs. Shimano Pedals
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Look vs. Shimano Pedals
Okay everyone, I know that this topic has probably been beat to death. But I must ask: which pedal allows for easy clipping in and clipping out of? I plan on doing my first triathlon soon (sprint), and for that purpose I'm getting my first professional bike fit. In speaking with the fitter, I mentioned that I still use the old-style campy clip pedals. He suggested that I switch to clipless and that I get a set of Looks, as he says "it's easier to clip out of them." I've never heard that before. So I turn to this informative Forum for your thoughts. Topic isn't so much "which is better", but which is generally considered easier to get in and out of. Thanks!
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IMO, speedplay zero.
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I’ve seen a lot of triathletes preset their shoes onto the pedal while it’s sitting in the transition area, they then slip their feet into to shoes as they start to ride. If you choose to start the bike leg that way, won’t matter Look or Shimano. They are pretty similar in function as BTW, I’ve used both, not really much difference.
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I no longer use road pedals, I use SPD mt bike pedals on all my bikes. I used to use Look before SPD had been introduced , then switched to SPD. Then went to SPD-L many years later to try to solve a pain issue under the joint of my small toe, thinking a wider cleat. Didn’t help, I ended up with Shimano carbon soled SPD shoes, that solved the problem.
Last edited by Steve B.; 03-12-24 at 06:46 PM.
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I think Looks are very easy. Mates with SPDSL seem to faff more but I confess I’ve never tried them so that could be them tightening them up too much or something. I have pretty wide feet (size 45 EU) and Keos seem a very stable platform.
Also watched a sprint Tri recently and not convinced the prepping of the shoes in the pedals saved anyone any time for those that did it.
Also watched a sprint Tri recently and not convinced the prepping of the shoes in the pedals saved anyone any time for those that did it.
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I have been using Look ARC pedals since almost thirty years and no problems
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I have purchased and used Look Keo and the Shimano equivalent. The look pedals in my opinion were a royal PITA. They were tough to clip into, which if you search the internet is a common complaint - until I shimmed the front-most bolt. Then when off the saddle, the D@mn things creaked and groaned - another common complaint found on the interwebs. And I had been a very happy Look Delta user for 25 years - so thought these should be a big improvement - WRONG - they really blew it. I bought three pairs to outfit most of my frequently ridden bikes and they all had the same issues, regardless of price - even the spendy carbon fiber.
Bought the Shimano equivalent and they are easy to clip in and out of, and best of all don’t creak. Shimano is the hands-down winner.
Bought the Shimano equivalent and they are easy to clip in and out of, and best of all don’t creak. Shimano is the hands-down winner.
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I have to say I haven’t had the first problem - and I have mine on the middle tension setting and the second only appeared once they were old, maybe 20,000 miles, and bearings a bit knackered.
Having said that, I use Keo compatible Assioma power pedals now.
Having said that, I use Keo compatible Assioma power pedals now.
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I find Shimano SPD-L very easy to clip out of and reasonably easy to clip in. I have no recent experience with Look pedals.
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Well, the easiness will be determined by the tension in your spring, which you can adjust.
My vote goes to Shimano.
My vote goes to Shimano.
#13
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I used the same Look Delta pedals from 1986 to 2018 and had only one complaint, they creaked. The interface between the pedal and cleat creaked and I had to lube them before every ride. Finally in 2018 I switched to Shimano as the Look pedal body had simply worn out and am very happy I did. It took my son to convince me to make the move. They don't creak at all and the cleat seems to be wearing better as well.
As for quick pedal entry the Shimano mountain pedals can't be beat. Just step on the pedal, which is two sided, and go.
As for quick pedal entry the Shimano mountain pedals can't be beat. Just step on the pedal, which is two sided, and go.
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This, if it's a sprint tri. Afterwards you can evaluate and think about where you want to go from there. You might find out tri is not for you. If you decide to move on to clipless, here's how to do it. Get some cheap 2 sided pedals with one side being flat. Get the cheapest set of shoes you can find that will clip into thoes pedals. Borrowed, used, damaged, etc. This pedal/shoe combo is strictly for transitioning to clipless. I found a damaged/returned pair of shoes in the returned section at REI for $25. Clip one foot in and leave the other on the flat side. Go for a ride. Practice clipping in and out with the clipped in side. Switch sides. Repeat and rinse. Work up to clipping in both sides. Keep riding and repeating the process. Eventually it'll stick or it won't. Once you get it, then you can invest some real money into better pedals/shoes.
Last edited by seypat; 03-13-24 at 07:02 AM.
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#15
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Shimano SPD-SL, it's what I started with, and I see no reason to change. Been really liking the recent upgrade to the R8000 pedals with the wider base and +4mm Q Factor, very nice.
I'm putting flats on my old bike
I'm putting flats on my old bike
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Number 1 rule would be “don’t use new kit in your first tri.” You’re probably just as quick using runners and toe clips for the 20km bike leg.
If you want to ride in clipless, and haven’t done it before, I would recommend a 2-bolt system (SPD or Crank Bros) with a recessed cleat in a walkable shoe as a starter, and go to the 3-bolt systems in the future, if you feel the need. The 2-bolt pedals are easier to get used to, and you can get pedals with a flat side so even if you don’t clip in at first, you can still get yourself moving forward, and then clip in once you have momentum.
If you want to ride in clipless, and haven’t done it before, I would recommend a 2-bolt system (SPD or Crank Bros) with a recessed cleat in a walkable shoe as a starter, and go to the 3-bolt systems in the future, if you feel the need. The 2-bolt pedals are easier to get used to, and you can get pedals with a flat side so even if you don’t clip in at first, you can still get yourself moving forward, and then clip in once you have momentum.
#17
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I bought Garmin Vectors a while back. They use Look pedals. I still have them on my trainer bike, so I am now married to Look pedals.
They do creak, it's annoying.
They do creak, it's annoying.
#18
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As a long-time Speedplay user I totally disagree. Speedplay (in my experience) is the most difficult pedal for clipping in and clipping out. There is no tension adjustment.
I've also noticed a steady decline in the longevity / durability of the Speedplay pedals. My last pair of Nano pedals lasted three months before they had to be replaced under warranty. My last pair of Zero pedals lasted less than six months before they had to be replaced under warranty. In both cases the right pedal developed significant lateral play. Not sure what's going on, but it's not good.
If you want easy, go with Shimano SPD-SL.
I've also noticed a steady decline in the longevity / durability of the Speedplay pedals. My last pair of Nano pedals lasted three months before they had to be replaced under warranty. My last pair of Zero pedals lasted less than six months before they had to be replaced under warranty. In both cases the right pedal developed significant lateral play. Not sure what's going on, but it's not good.
If you want easy, go with Shimano SPD-SL.
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I have Favero power pedals which use Look cleats. They don’t creak.
I think Keo Blade Carbons, their most expensive pedals, are the most prone to creaking. In my experience.
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Number 1 rule would be “don’t use new kit in your first tri.” You’re probably just as quick using runners and toe clips for the 20km bike leg.
If you want to ride in clipless, and haven’t done it before, I would recommend a 2-bolt system (SPD or Crank Bros) with a recessed cleat in a walkable shoe as a starter, and go to the 3-bolt systems in the future, if you feel the need. The 2-bolt pedals are easier to get used to, and you can get pedals with a flat side so even if you don’t clip in at first, you can still get yourself moving forward, and then clip in once you have momentum.
If you want to ride in clipless, and haven’t done it before, I would recommend a 2-bolt system (SPD or Crank Bros) with a recessed cleat in a walkable shoe as a starter, and go to the 3-bolt systems in the future, if you feel the need. The 2-bolt pedals are easier to get used to, and you can get pedals with a flat side so even if you don’t clip in at first, you can still get yourself moving forward, and then clip in once you have momentum.
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Is there a lot of clipping in and clipping out in Triathlons? I always imagined, but I don't do Tris, that you clip in once, and out once.
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Twice. Start of the bike leg and finish. I have seen triathletes set up with their shoes mounted on the pedals, they run barefoot to the start point in the transition area where they are allowed to start riding, they then and while rolling, pop their feet into the shoes, and buckle up (engage Velcro or BOA). If you want to take the time and are not competing for place, you just put on the shoes in the transition area, then run in your bike shoes to the point you can mount onto the bike, this method takes longer. At end of bike leg, you just get your foot out of the shoe while it’s still in the pedal leaving it there and run barefoot to the bike storage section and put in your running shoes. I have known folks who use old style caged pedals and ride in their running shoes.
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Twice. Start of the bike leg and finish. I have seen triathletes set up with their shoes mounted on the pedals, they run barefoot to the start point in the transition area where they are allowed to start riding, they then and while rolling, pop their feet into the shoes, and buckle up (engage Velcro or BOA). If you want to take the time and are not competing for place, you just put on the shoes in the transition area, then run in your bike shoes to the point you can mount onto the bike, this method takes longer. At end of bike leg, you just get your foot out of the shoe while it’s still in the pedal leaving it there and run barefoot to the bike storage section and put in your running shoes. I have known folks who use old style caged pedals and ride in their running shoes.
normally. Maybe that’s my lack of marginal gains though :-)
#25
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I started with Look Keo and, after a few years, switched to Shimano Ultegra SPD-SL. Found both to be about the same with perhaps a slight edge to Shimano when clipping in and out. With that said, though, the Looks were my first set of clipless pedals, so there was a learning curve involved.
Last edited by oldwinger14; 03-20-24 at 06:29 AM.