Originally Posted by MoAlpha
(Post 21724213)
Pretty much. I think my SOP is to start just before the valve, but it's all procedural memory. You're supposed to start after?
What's the deal? |
Originally Posted by datlas
(Post 21724220)
News to me. I usually start at the valve and end 180 degrees from it. I think I do that because that's how you do tubes, but for tires I honestly don't know if it matters.
What's the deal? |
Originally Posted by MoAlpha
(Post 21724168)
Safer? Guy started a thread here about how he cracked a rim with a lever, but I've never used one of those..
It uses the same principle of a car tire type machine. |
Originally Posted by datlas
(Post 21724220)
News to me. I usually start at the valve and end 180 degrees from it. I think I do that because that's how you do tubes, but for tires I honestly don't know if it matters.
What's the deal?
Originally Posted by MoAlpha
(Post 21724225)
Yeah, what IS the deal?
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Originally Posted by WhyFi
(Post 21724238)
It can make all the difference in the world with tubeless compatible rims. You end at the valve because the valve takes up space in the bottom of that center well that runs around the rim; you want the tire beads in that well as much as possible for the little extra bit of slack in getting the last bit of bead over the edge of the rim.
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Originally Posted by WhyFi
(Post 21724238)
It can make all the difference in the world with tubeless compatible rims. You end at the valve because the valve takes up space in the bottom of that center well that runs around the rim; you want the tire beads in that well as much as possible for the little extra bit of slack in getting the last bit of bead over the edge of the rim.
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Originally Posted by phrantic09
(Post 21724249)
I’ve always ended at the valve, that’s how I was taught by the shop I got my first bike from.
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Originally Posted by MoAlpha
(Post 21724268)
Makes sense.
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Originally Posted by WhyFi
(Post 21724294)
At this point, the beads on your current tires are probably stretched enough that it wouldn't be fair to use them to assess whether this technique will make life easier on you, but if you like the tires otherwise, I would certainly give them another shot. The first few times that I mounted (tubeless) tires on tubeless rims, it was a wrestling match that left my hands blistered. It's gotten easier every time, though, even when revisiting combinations that were a bear the first time around; that makes me believe that technique is the primary difference. Nothing has been remotely difficult in the last two years or so, not with four wheelsets and a half-dozen makes/models of tire.
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Very pretty picture. But wet leaves on the ground can be dangerous, because they slip and slide. They will put you on the ground before you can say oh ****!!!!!! Be careful.
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Originally Posted by WhyFi
(Post 21724270)
How long ago was this, out of curiosity? I think that the old-school way was to start at the valve, and with the rim bed profiles, I don't know if it made much difference one way or the other. With tighter tolerances and tubeless rims becoming ubiquitous in recent years, ending at the valve is a definite advantage, though.
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Originally Posted by rydabent
(Post 21724318)
Very pretty picture. But wet leaves on the ground can be dangerous, because they slip and slide. They will put you on the ground before you can say oh ****!!!!!! Be careful.
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Originally Posted by WhyFi
(Post 21724238)
It can make all the difference in the world with tubeless compatible rims. You end at the valve because the valve takes up space in the bottom of that center well that runs around the rim; you want the tire beads in that well as much as possible for the little extra bit of slack in getting the last bit of bead over the edge of the rim.
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Originally Posted by datlas
(Post 21724333)
Why do you ask?
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Originally Posted by LAJ
(Post 21724336)
I second that. Why do you ask, and why would you ask in that manner?
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Originally Posted by phrantic09
(Post 21723206)
I had my fitting today, aside from cleat position, shims, saddle position, angle, height and stem height, I had the bike set up pretty well....
:eek: It will be interesting to see when ever I get mine done. |
Originally Posted by Velo Vol
(Post 21724348)
A few days ago he made a post implying that he was dealing with issues. To be clear, we all have issues, and deal with them differently. "Snap" may not have been the best word choice.
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Originally Posted by rydabent
(Post 21724318)
Very pretty picture. But wet leaves on the ground can be dangerous, because they slip and slide. They will put you on the ground before you can say oh ****!!!!!! Be careful.
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Originally Posted by big john
(Post 21724372)
wut
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I did only half a ride because the sky to the north is dark. And we've got another tropical storm incoming, from that direction this time. I had heavy rain inside my room last time and, as luck would have it, I've since stumbled across that half can of crack sealer I knew was here somewhere. So up to the roof I go, shortly. Who would have thought there would be two in the same season? Not me.
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I believe it's raining
Reading the directions, it says it can be used on surfaces wet or dry, but they must be asphalt based. I doubt there is an asphalt based roof within 100 miles of where I sit. Possibly within 200 miles though. It comes highly recommended though, and I've used it successfully before. So, when it stops raining, I will go up and give it a go. |
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c42bc2901.jpeg
I may regret this but I don’t think they can be worse than my last tire. |
Originally Posted by datlas
(Post 21724333)
Why do you ask? He is still atop the leaderboard for the week. I do have a chance to take it as I am riding on Saturday and Sunday.
Originally Posted by LAJ
(Post 21724336)
I second that. Why do you ask, and why would you ask in that manner?
Originally Posted by Velo Vol
(Post 21724348)
A few days ago he made a post implying that he was dealing with issues. To be clear, we all have issues, and deal with them differently. "Snap" may not have been the best word choice.
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