Optimal gearing is a combination of the following factors:
- Rider strength
- Rider endurance
- Rider leg speed
- Track dimensions
- Type of race

And to a lesser extent:
- Weather
- Time of year (seriously)

So, it's really difficult to offer gearing advice from the internet. You'll get better advice from your friends at your local track.

The best thing to do is try it out. Some races you'll be under-geared, others over-geared, and others just right.

http://www.roryoneillart.com/USERIMAGES/goldilocks1.jpg

I wrote a gearing (and equipment purchasing) primer that can be found here: http://www.bikeforums.net/track-cycl...ack-racer.html

Track Stand Learning
 

Trackstand Masters, do you have tips to learn track standing?

I like to practice track stands after trainings and I would like to improve my technique.
I am riding a 48x16 and I can only hold it for about 2 seconds (Not really a track stand yet? :P )
One of my questions: is it easier to track stand on bankings or on flats?

Any advise is greatly appreciated!!!

I attended my first track clinic last night and had a blast. Dove right in and felt like I held my own with the more experienced riders.

My biggest concern, which also held me back from getting on the track, are my knees. They aren't injured but the left one makes some clicks when bending it. Doctor checked it out and said all was okay. However, due tongue nature of track bikes, I was concerned riding a fixed gear drive train could irritate my joints/knees.

So, my question is this: What pedaling/riding (and stopping) technique can I employ to be efficient and take the most amount of undue stress off of my knees?

Easiest to learn on a slight incline, as you can learn to balance the pressure on the pedals against the slight incline. Gear choice really doesn't make much difference when learning to track stand, just the amount of effort needed to get it moving again once you've finished track standing

My knees are making noises for 30 years now. It sounds as if they were was sand in the joint. It doesn't hurt, the doctor can't find anything.... so what..

Stopping technique, that's easy: Don't stop! Seriously, the more often you race the less need for stopping you are going to have.
Pedaling in general: You can choose a small gear (less forces on your knee), if you are good at spinning (I'm not).
Frankly speaking I don't think that track is worse than road. The stopping is no issue because you will rarely need it. I know in the beginning it feels as if you have to slow down all the time, but that doesn't last long. Go have fun!

Re: Knee concerns– Best thing here is to make sure your bike fits well, and in particular that your cleats are adjusted properly. I've had a funky knee for 20+ years and track cycling irritates it far less than road cycling used to.

For those wondering about colored cogs:

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=525626264250437

Notice 2 things:
- The color signaling the tooth count, and
- The rider's initials so that it doesn't go home with a teammate by mistake.

I went to Kissena for the first time the other day after a few years of fixed experience on the road. I fell in love and want to pursue racing as a serious hobby.

What advice do you have for a total newbie?

Welcome!

1) Until you complete the beginner's course, please don't ride the track when others are there training. If another person shows up to train, politely get off the track...even if they are just warming up. Track training and racing isn't difficult, but you can do something unexpected and make a mess. ALL of the rules and etiquette are rooted in safety. Until you learn them, you won't know them. Imagine a guy who drives a tractor on his farm for years then takes a car out on the highway without having a driver's education course. It's very similar to that.

2) Take the beginner's class. Find the website or facebook page with info. (Maybe someone here has a link?)

3) Read this: http://www.bikeforums.net/track-cycl...ack-racer.html

+1

I've been using zero-float cleats since 2010 for road and track bikes. No knee issues (knock wood). I think this is largely due to the controlled nature of cycling and the fixed cleats.

Also, as mentioned above, you'll want to gradually slow down (using subtle back pressure) and not try to abruptly stop or skid like the youngsters do.

Knees weren't happy when I started jogging recently.

Thanks Carleton! What's the beginners class? Is this a universal thing? Is it taken on the track?

Thanks, Carleton. I was hoping you'd chime in. After watching some races before trying the track I definitely learned how to slow myself down and then stop and unclip as I normally would before ever getting on the track. Thanks for the tips, guys! Now, I just need a bike of my own and I'll be ready!

Yes. It's a universal thing. Even guys/girls who are seasoned road, MTB, or CX racers have to take the track into class. Certifications generally transfer to other tracks, espeically if your home track is steep (like Frisco or LA). But, being that Kissena is relatively flat, you'll probably be asked to take a quick refresher at a steeper track when you go visit. You won't have a problem racing at TTown (Trexlertown, PA) after being certified at Kissena.

Kessena locals were monitoring this thread. Maybe ask for info there: http://www.bikeforums.net/track-cycl...rent-bike.html

Awesome, thanks my man!

Another small question. What do you think of phil cogs? And what's your cog of preference?

Any links or info on some good training sessions to do on rollers?

My first set is coming in the mail this weekend. I know there will be some learning curve, but I'm interested in some training ideas.

I like Dura Ace. I do have a Phil cog and it's nice, too. Euro Asia Imports cogs are also very good.

Ok, great. Thanks for all this info. Having a seasoned racer to explain and help you learn things is really amazing.

And chainrings.. Sugino Zen really necessary or should I just get a 75?

I'm also a very avid rock climber. I do a lot of bouldering which is very muscle intensive and works your biceps, forearms (a lot!), lats, and back muscles. At the end of my climbing sessions I do a a short work out (push ups, pull ups, blah blah blah). Is there anything I can add to that that may help with track cycling?

S75 chainrings are very good.

As far as other workout stuff goes - squat jumps or other leg-based plyometrics are helpful.

why are there no corima vif, corima wheels, campagnolo drivetrain, or campagnolo discs in uci world cup events?

Related. lol
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s_EaUSzdmSQ

Hiya everyone. I've raced five or six nights at Kissena Velodrome this summer, each time entering three races or so. I'm now a Cat 4 racer, owing to the number of races I've been, not to any success I've had. (I'm fine with my humorous record of finishing last in every race. I'm there to have fun, and I'm succeeding at that.)

Do I qualify to race at T-Town somehow this coming Friday night? Or as a rookie, do I have to wait until Saturday? I can't figure it out from T-Town's web site. Thanks!

Saturday is when you'll want to race. A lot of guys will head over Friday to watch the racing and then stay over to race Saturday, but Friday racing is for pros, 1s and invited 2s. Tuesdays are Pro,1,2,3 and Saturdays are masters,4,5. There's also women and juniors on those days, but I'm not too sure of the category breakdown for them.

Keep in mind racing at t-town might spoil your kissena experience. They're basically at opposite ends of the spectrum for quality of venue.

Regarding crank arm lengths and fit; my road bike has 175mm crank arms. Should I match that on my track bike or go shorter to 170? If I do go shorter, will I just have to adjust saddle height to keep everything "fit-wise" correct?

People tend to go shorter on the track. It's a bit more comfortable at higher cadences.

Some people will tell you that 170s or shorter are necessary to avoid pedal-strike on the bankings, but that's not correct. I've known people who have used up to 177.5 on a 43-degree velodrome. It requires having a brain in your bucket during a neutral lap, but that's all.

If you are particular about millimeters, then yes, if you go 5mm shorter than you should raise your saddle 5mm.

Awesome thanks for the info. Is there a length you'd recommend for a beginner or is 170 ok in general?