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-   -   Question about flipping the bar (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=1196718)

Metallifan33 03-27-20 03:22 PM

Question about flipping the bar
 
I got fitted/sized for my bike in December. Everything felt comfortable at the time, but now, after about 600 miles on the bike, when I get in the drops, they feel too high to me. Also, when I'm riding on the hoods, they're starting to feel too close to me. I was told that eventually I'd want to flip the stem to make it lower. My question, is if this is done, will I have to change my saddle height as well? I ask because when I go into the drops, I tend to have to slide back in the saddle. It seems like I'd be more comfortable with a higher saddle when I'm lower, but I'm not sure if this would be the right thing to do.
Have any of you changed (or remember lowering your handle bars)? What was the experience like?
Thanks!

WhyFi 03-27-20 03:49 PM


Originally Posted by Metallifan33 (Post 21386748)
My question, is if this is done, will I have to change my saddle height as well?

No. Saddle positing should be set relative to BB/crankset/pedals. Handlebar position should be set relative to your saddle, not the other way around.

Cypress 03-27-20 03:53 PM


Originally Posted by Metallifan33 (Post 21386748)
I tend to have to slide back in the saddle.

Have you tried bending your elbows?

Metallifan33 03-27-20 04:09 PM


Originally Posted by Cypress (Post 21386800)
Have you tried bending your elbows?

Yeah, that's the problem; I have to bend them too much when I'm in the drops.

Metallifan33 03-27-20 04:10 PM


Originally Posted by WhyFi (Post 21386791)
No. Saddle positing should be set relative to BB/crankset/pedals. Handlebar position should be set relative to your saddle, not the other way around.

oh ok.. this makes sense.

Bah Humbug 03-27-20 04:21 PM


Originally Posted by WhyFi (Post 21386791)
No. Saddle positing should be set relative to BB/crankset/pedals. Handlebar position should be set relative to your saddle, not the other way around.

Saddle distance from BB should be constant, but typically when lowering the bars people like to use a steeper seat angle, which is what our friend is describing. I don't have the cite I was looking for, which was a column on Slowtwitch about multiple bike fitters creating rigs to accomplish this independently. Unfortunately, while Slowman is brilliant at a lot of things, his site is very difficult to explore.

Sy Reene 03-27-20 04:22 PM

Saddles have a good amount of length -- typically over 7", so I think the point is that riders do shift position on the saddle depending on riding position for the hands. OTOH, the original question as to whether saddle height should adjust, I'd say no, but it's possible some tweak to fore/aft makes sense depending on your %age of time on top, hoods or drops.

Metallifan33 03-27-20 04:26 PM


Originally Posted by Bah Humbug (Post 21386840)
but typically when lowering the bars people like to use a steeper seat angle,

So when you say "steeper," do you mean the nose of the saddle points up or down?

Bah Humbug 03-27-20 04:31 PM


Originally Posted by Metallifan33 (Post 21386848)
So when you say "steeper," do you mean the nose of the saddle points up or down?

Oh dear god no! The saddle should remain level. The "steeper" refers to the seat tube angle, which you could affect by sliding the seat slightly forward and then a fraction of that up. The effect of preferring to ride steep when drop increases is part of why road saddles are designed the way they are, so that you can slide forward when you get in the drops and start riding harder. However, if you're dropping the bars themselves lower, it would make sense to adjust the seat - SLIGHTLY! - as well. I cannot overstate how this should be a matter of a few mms forward and perhaps one up, and don't go out for a long ride immediately.

The article, btw, is here:

https://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Grea...like_6939.html

WhyFi 03-27-20 05:11 PM


Originally Posted by Bah Humbug (Post 21386840)
Saddle distance from BB should be constant, but typically when lowering the bars people like to use a steeper seat angle, which is what our friend is describing. I don't have the cite I was looking for, which was a column on Slowtwitch about multiple bike fitters creating rigs to accomplish this independently. Unfortunately, while Slowman is brilliant at a lot of things, his site is very difficult to explore.

​​​​​​It struck me as a high level overview type of question.

Bah Humbug 03-27-20 06:09 PM


Originally Posted by WhyFi (Post 21386907)
​​​​​​It struck me as a high level overview type of question.

And I, as per usual, tried to fill the fish tank with a fire hose.

datlas 03-27-20 06:51 PM


Originally Posted by Bah Humbug (Post 21386985)
And I, as per usual, tried to fill the fish tank with a fire hose.

Kudos

Kimmo 03-28-20 04:02 AM


Originally Posted by Bah Humbug (Post 21386854)
Oh dear god no! The saddle should remain level.

What, this shibboleth still has legs?

If you're rocking a lot of drop, it's fine to point the nose down a tad. Pros do it.

colnago62 04-01-20 10:52 AM


Originally Posted by Kimmo (Post 21387409)
What, this shibboleth still has legs?

If you're rocking a lot of drop, it's fine to point the nose down a tad. Pros do it.

Is that why, though? I Ask because you don’t really see trackies lowering the tips of their saddles and they generally ride with more drop than a road setup.

RiceAWay 04-01-20 11:33 AM


Originally Posted by Metallifan33 (Post 21386829)
Yeah, that's the problem; I have to bend them too much when I'm in the drops.

One of the really nice things about having a threadless steerer is that you only have to change the stem to adjust your position. When someone talked about "flipping the bars" they probably meant "flipping the stem". If it is in the -6 degree position that would raise the bars considerably and make your position more comfortable if you don't like bending your back. It is also possible to get stems with more rise and shorter length but be care not to go too much. When you change position, unless you're pretty far out always take it in increments.

DaveSSS 04-01-20 04:06 PM

Flipping a 6 degree stem will make quite a bit of difference in the bar height and lengthen the reach. I don't agree that you should need to be moving around on the saddle, if all else is adjusted correctly. Lowering the bars by 2cm may require a small change in the saddle angle to bring the nose down a bit, but try it without, first. Lower only if you feel excessive pressure at the front. Some posts with serrated angle adjustment work poorly. I always use a 2-bolt rocker style post, like the fsa k-force.

69chevy 04-02-20 09:25 AM


Originally Posted by colnago62 (Post 21395265)
Is that why, though? I Ask because you don’t really see trackies lowering the tips of their saddles and they generally ride with more drop than a road setup.

It takes pressure off of your perinium.

Trackies are on their bikes how long at a time?

colnago62 04-02-20 10:43 AM


Originally Posted by 69chevy (Post 21396870)
It takes pressure off of your perinium.

Trackies are on their bikes how long at a time?

I was looking at UCI fit requirements for track events last night. I wanted to see how much out of compliance my bike was, not that it matters for the local stuff I do, and I found that the UCI limits the amount of till a saddle can have on track bikes.


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