Originally Posted by LesterOfPuppets
(Post 21860216)
Love Greta's shirt! HBD, BTW
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3e7ed8e79.jpeg |
Originally Posted by datlas
(Post 21860283)
My rear shifting became quite sloppy during yesterday’s gritty ride. I cleaned/degreased drivetrain and relubed everything.
BUT It’s still not shifting well and I have isolated the problem to the RD which is not swinging back well, and causing a severe case of slack-chain. The return spring on RD seems weak. See pic below. Suggestions?? I think I had this problem before and tried to tighten the circular return spring and it’s been several years, all I recall is it ended up not working and I got very frustrated. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a5eeb1c57.jpeg Help! Be careful after the clip is removed the spring is under tension and could come apart. EDIT: Now that I look at the pic a little closer. The attachment bolt and surrounding area looks a bit beat up. You didn't drop it recently did you? |
Originally Posted by bampilot06
(Post 21860438)
While your at it that frame looks like it could be the problem, Probably best if you replace it.:innocent:
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I just sold a Cycleops fluid trainer . 2 kinetics to go.
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Originally Posted by ls01
(Post 21860455)
If I remember correctly, there's an E clip on the back side of the "B" pivot. Should be a coil spring with the ends bent into 2 nubs that seat into holes.. take the clip off and inspect the spring,, make sure the nubs are still on it. Make sure the holes they sit in haven't sheered off. Or the "B" pivot could just need cleaning and grease.
Be careful after the clip is removed the spring is under tension and could come apart. EDIT: Now that I look at the pic a little closer. The attachment bolt and surrounding area looks a bit beat up. You didn't drop it recently did you? |
Originally Posted by ls01
(Post 21860455)
If I remember correctly, there's an E clip on the back side of the "B" pivot. Should be a coil spring with the ends bent into 2 nubs that seat into holes.. take the clip off and inspect the spring,, make sure the nubs are still on it. Make sure the holes they sit in haven't sheered off. Or the "B" pivot could just need cleaning and grease.
Be careful after the clip is removed the spring is under tension and could come apart. EDIT: Now that I look at the pic a little closer. The attachment bolt and surrounding area looks a bit beat up. You didn't drop it recently did you? |
My watch died. :(
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Originally Posted by datlas
(Post 21860283)
Help!
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Originally Posted by datlas
(Post 21860505)
No recent drop. Will try to lube this better and check chain life, as well as ensure spring nubs in position. Will avoid taking spring out as that’s what I messed up several years ago, but if problem persists I may have to.
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Originally Posted by Velo Vol
(Post 21860513)
My watch died. :(
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Originally Posted by Trsnrtr
(Post 21860409)
Looks to me like an opportunity to throw away that cable eating drivetrain. :innocent:
I have considered getting a whole new groupset for the Habanero, but an hoping to keep current version going for another 1-2 years and plan to get the next-generation Shimano when it’s out. |
Speaking of RDs, I've been running a Dura-Ace 7800 rear derailleur and downtube shifters all year on the Trek, but I'm wanting some lower gearing - at least 32T in the back, preferably 34T. I know that some people have run larger than 28T in the back on those derailleurs, but I'm already exceeding the capacity as it is with the short cage. Long cage 7800 is prohibitively expensive and wont' give me the max cog I want anyways.
Part of me is really wanting an XTR RD-MD980, partly because that smoked grey finish is so cool, and also because it's a rapid rise model which adds some interesting character. However, that stupid voice of reason is telling me to spend less than half the money on a brand new 105 RD-5701-GS. I'd probably be happier with the 105 but compared to the XTR it's just so uncool. |
Originally Posted by datlas
(Post 21860338)
Thanks. I just lubed the pivot point and it’s slightly better already. Will work on it. Also possible chain is getting old, my vernier calipers are digital with a solar cell, so a rainy day like today renders it useless!
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Originally Posted by Trsnrtr
(Post 21860409)
Looks to me like an opportunity to throw away that cable eating drivetrain. :innocent:
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Originally Posted by Velo Vol
(Post 21860513)
My watch died. :(
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Originally Posted by Velo Vol
(Post 21860513)
My watch died. :(
#OnAShortLeashWithSantaToo |
Originally Posted by eja_ bottecchia
(Post 21860367)
Sure way to jinx the new year...thanks a lot. :innocent:
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Got out for a good ride. While I did not traverse and frozen lakes, I did ride on a mostly frozen creek. It was all very Instagramable.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1e2a78e473.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b474d8f336.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4c000c1135.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...23c755d3ae.jpg |
Originally Posted by abshipp
(Post 21860523)
Speaking of RDs, I've been running a Dura-Ace 7800 rear derailleur and downtube shifters all year on the Trek, but I'm wanting some lower gearing - at least 32T in the back, preferably 34T. I know that some people have run larger than 28T in the back on those derailleurs, but I'm already exceeding the capacity as it is with the short cage. Long cage 7800 is prohibitively expensive and wont' give me the max cog I want anyways.
Part of me is really wanting an XTR RD-MD980, partly because that smoked grey finish is so cool, and also because it's a rapid rise model which adds some interesting character. However, that stupid voice of reason is telling me to spend less than half the money on a brand new 105 RD-5701-GS. I'd probably be happier with the 105 but compared to the XTR it's just so uncool. #yolo |
Originally Posted by rjones28
(Post 21860569)
Get the one you really, really want.
#yolo #snoozing |
Originally Posted by abshipp
(Post 21860523)
Speaking of RDs, I've been running a Dura-Ace 7800 rear derailleur and downtube shifters all year on the Trek, but I'm wanting some lower gearing - at least 32T in the back, preferably 34T. I know that some people have run larger than 28T in the back on those derailleurs, but I'm already exceeding the capacity as it is with the short cage. Long cage 7800 is prohibitively expensive and wont' give me the max cog I want anyways.
Part of me is really wanting an XTR RD-MD980, partly because that smoked grey finish is so cool, and also because it's a rapid rise model which adds some interesting character. However, that stupid voice of reason is telling me to spend less than half the money on a brand new 105 RD-5701-GS. I'd probably be happier with the 105 but compared to the XTR it's just so uncool. |
Originally Posted by abshipp
(Post 21860523)
Speaking of RDs, I've been running a Dura-Ace 7800 rear derailleur and downtube shifters all year on the Trek, but I'm wanting some lower gearing - at least 32T in the back, preferably 34T. I know that some people have run larger than 28T in the back on those derailleurs, but I'm already exceeding the capacity as it is with the short cage. Long cage 7800 is prohibitively expensive and wont' give me the max cog I want anyways.
Part of me is really wanting an XTR RD-MD980, partly because that smoked grey finish is so cool, and also because it's a rapid rise model which adds some interesting character. However, that stupid voice of reason is telling me to spend less than half the money on a brand new 105 RD-5701-GS. I'd probably be happier with the 105 but compared to the XTR it's just so uncool. |
Originally Posted by rjones28
(Post 21860534)
Upgrade opportunity. ;)
Originally Posted by WhyFi
(Post 21860566)
I did ride on a mostly frozen creek.
Things I have never had a desire to do. wut |
Originally Posted by Velo Vol
(Post 21860630)
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Originally Posted by WhyFi
(Post 21860587)
There are times when looking at the relative cost is pretty sensible and there are times when looking at the absolute cost differential is much better. It's like when people try to rag on expensive socks, "are your $15 socks 10 times better than my $1.50 socks?" Pfft - I don't know if they're 10 times better, but they're certainly $13.50 better." In this instance, I think it's more sensible for you to look at the absolute rather than relative price difference - in the grand scheme of things, it's not that much, 'specially when you factor life expectancy and usage.
I am trying to get away from buying everything used though, which complicates things. There's no way I'm paying the NOS prices for one of those XTRs, if I'm spending that much money I'll just get 11s Campagnolo ;)
Originally Posted by datlas
(Post 21860607)
Consider a Wolf Tooth or similar RD hanger extender?
I do need to pick up another goat link for the MTB at some point though :thumb: |
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