Self-restraint paid off yesterday. I thought all I had was a garden-variety chain-came-off-rear sprocket incident (1962 Phillips with Sturmey-Archer 3-speed), and was perplexed when I couldn't get it back on by putting it in place and then turning the cranks, nothing would move at all, sprocket wouldn't rotate.

So I considered just using a little more force, like pushing on the higher pedal. Nada.

Then (late for where I was headed, a short trip) I considered using a LOT of force, like really kicking or standing on the high pedal. But, I didn't. Don't ask me why, it's my usual "hammer mechanic" response, but I didn't. Something looked "wrong". It was the sprocket, it was cockeyed. Oh NO says I, something is fractured or broken, I'll need a new hub, where can i find one, why me God? (typical reaction).

But to my surprise, and acting against type, I actually calmed down, walked bike home, used car instead, then took the wheel off later. Turns out all it was, was the circlip had come free of the hub, and the sprocket was off the axle and out of position, so the chain jammed between it and the seat stay. The circlip probably was caught by a too-loose chain as it came off the sprocket followed by the sprocket coming free too. Nothing was damaged (because I hadn't tried to force it) and getting the clip back on wasn't easy, but after a few minutes with improvised tools, it finally snapped back on.

Now it's good as "new" I think (I've had this bike since new when I was a kid, no one ever stole it and gradually it has become "vintage", lucky me). And not losing my temper and breaking chain, clip, or even sprocket, paid off. Note to self, try this self-restraint thing a little more often?

Anyway, that was my lesson in character-building and shade-tree bike mechanics, courtesy of this reliable old bike. For you gearheads (which I definitely am not) the part was the K 463 Circlip pictured, though of course I did not look it up til today:

https://www.google.com/search?q=stur...%3B3510%3B2550

Same here- I've had a couple axle keys break over the years, but only had to replace one clutch.

Yes, Toronto.

Three Fall Favourites.

Here's an interesting Craigslist post I learned of through the Gentlemen Cyclist list:

Raleigh DL1 Tourist roadster

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=424285

[MENTION=301310]gster[/MENTION] it looks like we have the same Canadian model of Raleigh Superbe. Here's mine, I just did some work on it.

http://i1037.photobucket.com/albums/...pssxdudj9l.jpg

Also, here's a 19" 1980 Raleigh Sports I am rebuilding. I posted these elsewhere but I figure they would fit in here for posterity.

http://i1037.photobucket.com/albums/...psfvwcncwr.jpg

Nice looking Suberbe, and very complete with the Dynohub up front and the Raleigh branded nuts. I can see the little made in Canada sticker by the BB.
Do you have the front fork key?
Mine (the one pictured) is my everyday bike. I have another Superbe (1972, made in England) that comes out for special occasions,
like the Toronto Vintage Bicycle Show.
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=424302
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=424301

I'm in the midst of re-building a late 1960s Superbe for myself and found that I had to buy two Raleigh Lady's Sports to donate their fenders and chain guard and a few other parts (such as the rear wheel, stem, and bars from one of the Sports). It should all come together, and I'll sell of those Sports in the spring.

I like your Superbe. I have a 1972 Ladies Superbe frame in the same olive green sitting in my storage locker at the moment. It isn't in nearly as good condition as yours but the frame details are the same. I've always wondered about the orientation of the dynohub. Some say it should be on the driveside like mine, others to the opposite. Either way, it makes electricity in whatever direction it spins.

Yours is correct. On the drive side. Since those photos were taken I flipped it over.
Good eye.

I started riding as a kid in 1954, black Raleigh 3 speeds were the rage and I hated them.
Schwinn came out with the Corvette's... that's what I got and never looked back.
FYI, at that time the Raleigh's were $60 and the Corvette was $75.

That would work out today, with an average 3.7% inflation rate over 60 years:
the Raleigh @ $530.00
and the Corvette @ $660.00.
Your parents were very generous.
An ad from 1960.
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=424327

Here's a 1962 Schwinn Traveler for sale in Hamilton for $400.00
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=424328http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=424329http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=424330http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=424331http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=424332http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=424333http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=424334

Since we got Canada on the phone...I'm heading up to Vancouver BC for three days around the new year (Tues-Wed-Thurs). And I'll be bringing my three speed. Any Vancouver area three speeders interested in a ride? Maybe 'round the Seawall or something along those lines? Please let me know!

I've been interested in the possibility of getting my first ever 3 speed. From my research, it seems that a Sturmey Archer would be a solid candidate as far as hubs/shifters go. Raleigh seems to be a good bet. Any others to focus on for a first timer? I've ready through quite a bit of this thread, so I do have an idea of various choices, but would want something rather "trouble free" to start with.

Thanks.

As long as it is one of the major brands you won't go wrong. And by major brands I am including many of the Raleigh built clones. I don't know what you consider "trouble free", however a Sturmey-Archer hub is about as close to it as you are going to get. If it does have issues parts are readily available as is support to work on them.

Aaron :)

@wahoonc- Thanks. My local CL has his & hers 1973 Raleigh Sprites for $200 (for both - being sold as a pair), and look to be in fantastic shape. Ivory color. Original owners, I believe.


Is Hercules considered a reputable brand?

Grab them!!!

Yes to Hercules... I have a couple. Prior to the 1950's, they were a standalone brand, got sucked up by Raleigh in the mid to late 50's if memory serves me. Still decent bikes even after the Raleigh takeover.

Got a link to those Sprites? Some of those came with 5 speed IGH hubs. For your area that sounds like a decent price.

Aaron :)

Hi Aaron. Here are the links for both the 1973 Raleigh Sprites and to the Hercules:

1973 Raleigh Sprites, His and Hers Vintage

Woman's Vintage English 3 speed - Sturmey Archer

Here's a link to another Hercules nearby. I notice that the head tubes are different on the two and one is the "Hercules 'Tourist'".

http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/bik/4799933383.html

I don't want to buy 2 Raleighs and I'm scared to death (not really) of cottered cranks, so I'm just thinking about it at this point.

Couldn't you just buy them all? I don't see anything wrong with N+4.

I would get the Hercules. The Raleighs have derailleurs AND cottered cranks. :P

Cottered cranks by themselves are not an issue, knowing how to work on them and/or finding someone that does is the issue... There are quite a few vintage friendly shops in the Portland area. Parts are not an issue.

That Hercules is pretty close to the one I fixed up for my sister. Hers is a 1964, built by Hercules for AMF.

Aaron :)

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8572/...e0986bb1_c.jpg

LOL... I LIVE by that moto. Currently mine is more like N+30+parts=a whole shipping container full.:roflmao2:

Aaron :)

[MENTION=24271]wahoonc[/MENTION] - Thanks. You've got a good eye. So when you suggest the Hercules, which one? The first link - the step through or the second link - the diamond frame (notice I'm not saying "mens" & "women's"? :thumb:

Get yourself a cotter press and then the cottered cranks will not be scary at all. With a cotter press you can easily remove cotters and reuse them many times. Its no harder than any other kind of crank.

BOTH! :innocent: :D

Which ever one will work for you the best. The diamond frame is a good bit older than the step through version, it obviously needs more TLC.

The diamond frame looks like about a 21" the step through is probably a 19". My sister is 5'-10" and rides the step through just fine, however she is a neighborhood cruiser type rider.

Aaron :)

[MENTION=330095]Salubrious[/MENTION] & [MENTION=24271]wahoonc[/MENTION] - great! I've made contact with the step through Hercules to see Fri or Sat morning. Won't contact the older Hercules seller. Still haven't heard from the Raleigh's owners. Those Raleighs look like they have fantastic paint, so wanted to see. But, if they're derailleured, then that defeats the purpose of a SA 3 speed hub.

I watched a video on how to take apart, clean, lube & reassemble a SA hub as well as how to adjust the shifting, parts involved, etc. I spoke with a local bike mechanic who specializes in internally geared hub and she did say that for the SA I would require an extremely thin cone wrench. She said most file a regular cone wrench thinner.

Anyway, don't want to hijack this thread, and if I get one, I'll post on here or start a new thread. Thanks.

I wouldn't worry too much about having to tear down and rebuild the hub. I have one with over 50,000 (probably) miles on it. I tore it down a while back just because... all it needed was pawl springs. FWIW I have around 20 bikes with S-A hubs, mostly the AW three speed and they are extremely reliable. I have found there are typically two adjustments that need to be kept track of, the cable/indicator chain and the left bearing. Keep those in tune, add a bit of oil every now and again and you will be rolling along just fine for years to come.

Good luck and bring some pictures back to this thread. I wouldn't worry too much about going off topic, this thread kind of meanders as it is, as long as it is about three speeds you can't go wrong. :thumb:

Aaron :)

Not a hijack- its spot on! You can often get the cone wrench on ebay. Its just a little thing.

If a hub seems gummed up, give it a shot of WD 40 in the oil port and take it for a ride. They will usually start shifting properly in a mile or two, usually just a couple of blocks. I've got a 4-speed on my Humber that needed a little more- a shot of Kroil and a short ride. Once it was shifting right I drained it and put a bit of automatic transmission fluid in and its been great. BTW automatic transmission fluid works really well in these hubs. I've used it for years.

Velocivixen, here's a good one that's on Portland CL right now:
Classic Raleigh Sports Step-Through English Commuter Bike SHOP TUNED