Road quick release / QR / skewers, light vs 'normal'
Hey,
I've just found a crack on my QR from Roval wheels (probably I was using too much force), and I need ones (or at least one ;) ), S-Works Tarmac SL6 frame. Can you feel difference between 'standard' ones that weights >100g and light ones? (35-50g?) I'm not talking about the weight but clamping force (bike handling later etc.) Or difference between ones with internal cam mechanism and the ones with 'external' (of course I'll avoid ones with plasticky parts). internal cam https://www.tradeinn.com/f/13797/137...-ace-r9100.jpg external: https://www.tradeinn.com/f/13633/136...-steel-par.jpg and very light: https://images.bike24.com/i/mb/aa/9d...-0-1249499.jpg |
The answer depends on your bike.
Very little clamping force is needed for front wheels, except those with disc brakes. Likewise for rear wheels if you have vertical dropouts. Vertical dropouts have allowed QRs with poor clamping to succeed. However they often cannot keep wheels from slipping with horizontal dropouts. Likewise, poor performance of these newer QRs on disc brake bikes stimulated the change to through axle systems. So, consider the specific needs of your bike and choose accordingly. |
ah, didn't add, S-Works Tarmac SL6 frame, rim brakes, so quite 'standard' open dropouts, full carbon at the front, at the back NDS dropout is carbon, DS has outer side metal (hanger).
but also I saw people commenting somewhere that with 'weak' clamping force, you can feel more flex (during turning) |
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Get steel. Titanium slightly stretches.
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You seem to be aware that internal cam design clamps better. Once you move to external cam, I don't think you can generalize based on weight. :foo:
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Originally Posted by razorjack
(Post 23220622)
ah, didn't add, S-Works Tarmac SL6 frame, rim brakes, so quite 'standard' open dropouts, full carbon at the front, at the back NDS dropout is carbon,
While I'm normally a strong believer in QRs and axles with hard serrated faces that can bite into the frame, your bike calls for the opposite. Look for relatively smooth faces that won't cut into those CF dropouts. |
Somehow wheel manufacturers, even with most expensive wheels and lightest wheels (roval, shimano etc.), provide quite standard skewers weighting >100g
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Originally Posted by FBinNY
(Post 23220668)
OK, wheel holding requirements are minimal, so absolutely ANY QR will do.
and light ones with external cam 40-60g ... And I believe that clamping force may affect how frame flexes... (I don't know how much however :) ) |
Just curious. Where on the QR was the crack?
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Originally Posted by razorjack
(Post 23220708)
well.... i'm not sure about that, for some reason we have internal cam QRs - much stronger
and light ones with external cam 40-60g ...
Originally Posted by razorjack
(Post 23220708)
... I believe that clamping force may affect how frame flexes... (I don't know how much however :) )
Of course, you're free to believe what you will, but in my world, a theory without an explanation of the underlying mechanism is just a bunch of words. |
Originally Posted by FBinNY
(Post 23220717)
How?
Of course, you're free to believe what you will, but in my world, a theory without an explanation of the underlying mechanism is just a bunch of words. as 2 surfaces - hub end cap surface and frame surface will stick more - creating stiffer interface in case of a city bike, probably it doesn't matter... Yep. I don't have to believe in your "even weakest QR will do" theory :) |
You came for advice. Nobody says you have to accept it.
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In my 20+ years of cycling I've had two instances of QR skewer failure. Both were of the external cam type and both had the nut end (not the lever end) unscrew itself. On one case, I'll take the blame as it was one of those ultralight Ti skewers from eBay (probably didn't pass QA and should have never been sold). The other is a stock Bontrager skewer that seemed really solid and robust but it was on a gravel bike and maybe I didn't tighten it enough before clamping. Possibility of user error there but I still don't trust it fully.
Apart from this, my opinion is that a skewer is a skewer. I like Shimano and Reynolds ones. Mavic skewers feel nice but I don't think they clamp as hard, but they've also never failed me, either. |
Just buy a pair of Ultegra skewers (off Amazon, perhaps) and be done with it. They work as well as anything out there and the weight is a non-issue.
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My favorites are the Dura Ace (as pictured in the OP) and DT Swiss steel skewers that use the same ratchet-like mechanism as their thru-axle handles.
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Originally Posted by FBinNY
(Post 23220668)
OK, wheel holding requirements are minimal, so absolutely ANY QR will do..
Originally Posted by razorjack
(Post 23220727)
Yep. I don't have to believe in your "even weakest QR will do" theory :)
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Originally Posted by Polaris OBark
(Post 23220649)
Get steel. Titanium slightly stretches.
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Originally Posted by Iride01
(Post 23220715)
Just curious. Where on the QR was the crack?
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Originally Posted by Polaris OBark
(Post 23220649)
Get steel. Titanium slightly stretches.
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1 Attachment(s)
Good clear photo showing the crack in the QR housing.
The vintage Shimano ones were machined steel, this one in the photo looks like it was die casted. All you can really do is replace it with a better one. If you want to be precise on the force, get a nut and bolt skewer. Those gets tightened with 7nm. I use these on my personal bikes. I never remove the wheels anyways as I transport with a platform carrier. Besides, they are just very long M5 bolts that use the same 4mm hex tool. |
Originally Posted by soyabean
(Post 23221407)
If you want to be precise on the force, get a nut and bolt skewer. Those gets tightened with 7nm.
I use these on my personal bikes. I never remove the wheels anyways as I transport with a platform carrier. Besides, they are just very long M5 bolts that use the same 4mm hex tool. |
As one of the top 10 bike cities in the world, are you aware wheelset theft in my hometown is common?
I'll keep my skewer bolts and my wheels. Thanks. |
Originally Posted by soyabean
(Post 23221469)
As one of the top 10 bike cities in the world, are you aware wheelset theft in my hometown is common?
I'll keep my skewer bolts and my wheels. Thanks. My QR wheels would never get stolen no matter where I lived because I would never leave my bike unattended. |
What was I thinking with silly locknuts for my wheelset. I'm so dumb to leave my bike unattended.
I suppose about a hundred thousand daily commuters should just bring their bikes into their workplaces and classrooms. |
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