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Originally Posted by gster
(Post 20869241)
I could be wrong....
This Tourist had caged bearings. But I doubt it came from the factory that way. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ebo4DOK4MVc Just watched this and I can't believe that he re assembled the BB with the plastic cages.... |
Originally Posted by Ballenxj
(Post 20869283)
I too was surprised at it's having plastic cages, so either the BB has been rebuilt before, or they came that way from the factory? FWIW, I don't think the plastic cages will hurt anything, as they only keep the bearings in place, and don't support any weight?
Fewer bearings, 7 vs 11 (even thought bearings cost nothing), and quicker assembly time. |
Originally Posted by gster
(Post 20869299)
Caged bearings were a way to save money.
Fewer bearings, 7 vs 11 (even thought bearings cost nothing), and quicker assembly time. |
Raleigh made some, let's just say poorly though out cost saving changes over the years. Plastic bearing cages in the BB was one of them. There's a lot of stress on the BB. I think it's important to use the original 22 loose in there. One thing I do is replace them all with fresh grade 25 bearings. I know it's nothing you would ever notice while riding, but when I rebuild a BB, I like the silky smooth feel I get when I spin the crank after I'm done. Using the old bearings, even though they look perfect sometimes leaves a slight grittyness.
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Originally Posted by BigChief
(Post 20869436)
Raleigh made some, let's just say poorly though out cost saving changes over the years. Plastic bearing cages in the BB was one of them. There's a lot of stress on the BB. I think it's important to use the original 22 loose in there. One thing I do is replace them all with fresh grade 25 bearings. I know it's nothing you would ever notice while riding, but when I rebuild a BB, I like the silky smooth feel I get when I spin the crank after I'm done. Using the old bearings, even though they look perfect sometimes leaves a slight grittyness.
Haven't heard from you in a while... Good advice. |
Originally Posted by gster
(Post 20869143)
Sounds like some bad maintenance in the past.
As far as I know, Raleigh never used caged bearings. |
Originally Posted by noglider
(Post 20868650)
@Salubrious, the axle nuts are made of soft material so that they will strip easily. This is by design so that you won't strip the axle, because replacing the axle is a big-ish job. |
Originally Posted by gster
(Post 20869485)
Hey BC!
Haven't heard from you in a while... Good advice. |
Hi everyone,
I've been taking apart this '79 Sports to harvest it for parts. I've got the fenders (in surprisingly excellent shape, though not as nicely made as my '50 Superbe ones) a number of clips, the brake components, and I plan on taking the AW out of the rear wheel. Is there anything else I should take? The headset maybe and handlebars? What do you think? https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...103a2fba7b.jpg |
Originally Posted by Ged117
(Post 20869666)
Hi everyone,
I've been taking apart this '79 Sports to harvest it for parts. I've got the fenders (in surprisingly excellent shape, though not as nicely made as my '50 Superbe ones) a number of clips, the brake components, and I plan on taking the AW out of the rear wheel. Is there anything else I should take? The headset maybe and handlebars? What do you think? https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...103a2fba7b.jpg You can move the bars forward a couple of inches. Remember, everything on a Raleigh is proprietary and may be useful in the future. I would even keep the brake cable housings. The cranks/chainring look good as well The spindle and cups etc. |
Hercules Chain Ring
For the sake of moving forward on this project I'm going to substitute an newer generic crank set. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0d42e9a390.jpg The originals, although they clean up well are still pretty rough. The non drive crank also appears to be a replacement as the finish is different. My pedal wrench is not thin enough to get the pedals off either. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b935e4529a.jpg So for the time being I'll install this one. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a56402a6e9.jpg |
Originally Posted by Ged117
(Post 20869666)
Hi everyone,
I've been taking apart this '79 Sports to harvest it for parts. I've got the fenders (in surprisingly excellent shape, though not as nicely made as my '50 Superbe ones) a number of clips, the brake components, and I plan on taking the AW out of the rear wheel. Is there anything else I should take? The headset maybe and handlebars? What do you think? https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...103a2fba7b.jpg |
Originally Posted by Ged117
(Post 20869666)
Hi everyone,
I've been taking apart this '79 Sports to harvest it for parts. I've got the fenders (in surprisingly excellent shape, though not as nicely made as my '50 Superbe ones) a number of clips, the brake components, and I plan on taking the AW out of the rear wheel. Is there anything else I should take? The headset maybe and handlebars? What do you think? https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...103a2fba7b.jpg |
Originally Posted by gster
(Post 20869723)
Those stems are nice for a scorcher build.
You can move the bars forward a couple of inches. Remember, everything on a Raleigh is proprietary and may be useful in the future. I would even keep the brake cable housings. The cranks/chainring look good as well The spindle and cups etc. |
Originally Posted by BigChief
(Post 20869914)
Funny thing about this bike. This later Sports should have a second rear fender stay. It doesn't. That's good since it could be used on a much older Sports project. And the chainguard. I can't tell for sure, but it looks like it may be the older style 2 point type. That would be very handy to have around since it's in such good shape. Wonder why this 70s Sports would have older parts.
2 cents worth of opinion. I've got a half dozen older chainguards in the stash if anyone needs one for the cost of shipping. |
Originally Posted by BigChief
(Post 20869914)
Funny thing about this bike. This later Sports should have a second rear fender stay. It doesn't. That's good since it could be used on a much older Sports project. And the chainguard. I can't tell for sure, but it looks like it may be the older style 2 point type. That would be very handy to have around since it's in such good shape. Wonder why this 70s Sports would have older parts.
I think I will keep everything but the frame and take it to Yellow Bike, a bike coop here. I agree that the bottom bracket could come in handy someday so I'll use my soon to arrive cotter press to get at it properly. It was a timely arrival for sure, now I can finish up the '50. |
Originally Posted by 3speedslow
(Post 20868315)
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Originally Posted by BigChief
(Post 20869436)
Raleigh made some, let's just say poorly though out cost saving changes over the years. Plastic bearing cages in the BB was one of them. There's a lot of stress on the BB. I think it's important to use the original 22 loose in there. One thing I do is replace them all with fresh grade 25 bearings. I know it's nothing you would ever notice while riding, but when I rebuild a BB, I like the silky smooth feel I get when I spin the crank after I'm done. Using the old bearings, even though they look perfect sometimes leaves a slight grittyness.
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Originally Posted by paulb_in_bkln
(Post 20870019)
I wish I could flip the bars on my Rudge because that looks so cool, but then they'd be too low (small frame). I could get a longer stem but that seems like idiocy. Anyway yours looks real good.
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Originally Posted by paulb_in_bkln
(Post 20870019)
I wish I could flip the bars on my Rudge because that looks so cool, but then they'd be too low (small frame). I could get a longer stem but that seems like idiocy. Anyway yours looks real good.
i would love to find a Rudge Sport! Rare around here. I felt lucky finding an early 60’s Rudge 10 speed which I am converting into a 3 speed clubman. its going to be good cruising this summer on the Scorcher Deluxe but it’s got serious competition already from my Raleigh 20. |
Originally Posted by BigChief
(Post 20870050)
Yeah, a proper scorcher should have flipped bars. My scorcher would look so much better that way, but it's still a mean machine. These days I have ride sit up and beg style if I want to last any longer then a half hour. Darn arthritis. But, I'm grateful that I can still enjoy riding.
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Originally Posted by 3speedslow
(Post 20870055)
Thanks! This is a 21” frame so for me, perfect for a lean forward rider. I felt too tall on it when I had the bars upright. I believe Raleigh had a 2” rule for insertion min. You would be surprised what some of their stem models will give you in height. Worth a try. i would love to find a Rudge Sport! Rare around here. I felt lucky finding an early 60’s Rudge 10 speed which I am converting into a 3 speed clubman. its going to be good cruising this summer on the Scorcher Deluxe but it’s got serious competition already from my Raleigh 20. |
They are by Specialized. The shop around here carries them in stock. Can’t remember the name right now, thinking. They are the same diameter as the SA/ Raleigh rims use. One thing, when they are pressured up, the front mudguard needs to be spread in front. Edit: Roadsport |
Originally Posted by 3speedslow
(Post 20870117)
They are by Specialized. The shop around here carries them in stock. Can’t remember the name right now, thinking. They are the same diameter as the SA/ Raleigh rims use. One thing, when they are pressured up, the front mudguard needs to be spread in front. Edit: Roadsport |
Originally Posted by paulb_in_bkln
(Post 20870170)
Thanks. Thinking about shoes for the project bike I've just gotten back on the road. It's not quite finished, but at least I'm riding it. Might as well show a picture. It's on-topic here because AW hub. Was a street-find derelict Peugeot UE18 ('73? thereabouts). Someone parked it next to a wall that was being repointed so it and all its parts were covered with splashes of hardened mortar. The nice amenities like the fenders and original rack are horrible even though the fenders are stainless steel. A rear-tire generator was on it, too but I don't know if it's factory. Factory rear wheel, freewheel, derailleur long gone. Cranks/chainring also terrible. The front Normandy hub was there. I wanted a lighter bike anyway so after failing to find the right cotterless spindle I installed a VO cartridge BB. Got some inexpensive vintage-look cranks off eBay. CR18 rims, an AW hub ('73), a new Sunlite steel stem and alloy handlebars and crusty shifter I took off another derelict. Cleaned up the Mafac Racers. Sort of a mongrel but it's been a pleasure the short rides I've taken. I'm happy happy happy.https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...2bbbe0d000.jpg
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