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Originally Posted by RobHalligan
(Post 22072863)
I don't know about WITH the lumber, but I find performance of step thru bikes much more fun than that of top tube bikes. And they're much less expensive.
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Austria is close enough to England, right?
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...88147839497878 https://scontent.fric1-2.fna.fbcdn.n...e5&oe=60D3E175 |
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Originally Posted by Rherdegen
(Post 22074221)
It is a Type 3 hub, which I understand puts it in the '50's, but I've not been successful in finding a more specific date on it (and I've been told that those Hercules hubs didn't always (ever?) have specific dates stamped into them). But it is still pretty grimy, and I'll keep cleaning and searching.
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...es-thread.html If yours is a B Type 3 that would indicate 1953 as per this thread. |
Originally Posted by markk900
(Post 22075487)
This thread (especially if you scroll down to posts in the 20s) may be of some assistance......
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...es-thread.html If yours is a B Type 3 that would indicate 1953 as per this thread. |
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This should probably go in the "Folders" forum but...
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...44543974379220 https://scontent.fric1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...7a&oe=60D24CD7 |
I came across this cycle repair book while looking for info on coaster hubs. It's from the 19teens, and titled "CYCLE REPAIRING and ADJUSTING -with many illustrations", by Cassell's 'work' handbooks.
Packed with interesting bike knowledge and parts from the early years of the standard bicycle, it has a very interesting section on 2 and three speed hubs. One of the 1st illustrations is a Rudge-Whitworth. They seemed to have used a lot of petrol for cleaning, and sperm oil for lubrication! Well worth a look through to be entertained by how things were done and how some of those things are still done. Enjoy! https://tekniskkulturarv.dk/book/dec...-adjusting.pdf -It is in English btw |
I've owned a few English 3-speeds in my day, and I guess I still have some parts left over in the bottom of ye olde junkpile. I had them posted in the "for sale" forum, but I don't want money for them. I was told I ought to cross-post here.
I'm giving away some English-made Dunlop EA3 rims and a front fender for the same wheel size. You can see them in my "for free" thread, here. There's a little surface rust, but it should clean up with gentle vinegar soak or tinfoil polish. They are both 36h which I guess would be a little odd for early Raleigh, but not sure about other marques. I may have a few other random Raleigh shifter/brake parts I can throw in as well. Free to take. You can come pick them up in the Boston area, or make me a shipping label and I will box them up and send them off. ;) |
Originally Posted by arty dave
(Post 22076274)
I came across this cycle repair book while looking for info on coaster hubs. It's from the 19teens, and titled "CYCLE REPAIRING and ADJUSTING -with many illustrations", by Cassell's 'work' handbooks.
Packed with interesting bike knowledge and parts from the early years of the 'standard bicycle', it has a very interesting section on 2 and three speed hubs. One of the 1st illustrations is a Rudge-Whitworth. They seemed to have used a lot of petrol for cleaning, and 'sperm oil' for lubrication! Well worth a look through to be entertained by how things were done and how some of those things are still done. Enjoy! https://tekniskkulturarv.dk/book/dec...-adjusting.pdf -It is in English btw |
Originally Posted by vintagebicycle
(Post 22075996)
EDIT: Funny thing, I'm almost certain this also explains a Raleigh I couldn't figure out in the new Disney Cruella film. It was left parked in the same spot for almost all exterior shots in this location. It's the 1977+ Humber Blue color with a pre-'77 chainguard, no white tail, mattress saddle, the unusual one-piece handlebar as seen on the Wayfairer, and the same wire stays. Not to mention that it also has the bolt-on pump peg clip which seems to be factory-fitted; these didn't have braze-on pump pegs, apparently. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a720ead833.png It obviously isn't a '77 Sports without the silver seattube panel. It's almost undoubtedly a 21" Wayfairer, unless there's another nearly-identical obscure Raleigh in existence that carries the same color. -Kurt |
I'm looking for spoke lengths for the following:
36 hole GH6 front hub to 36 hole Westrick ISO 590 (26 x 1 3/8 standard Sports) rim. This would be a 1974 and later stock front wheel set up with the 36 hole front dynohub to the 36 hole Westrick rim. The 32 holes are much more common and I can get spoke lengths from the charts for those. But I'm looking to build a wheel from a 36 hole Westrick rim and a 36 hole GH6 dynohub. Has anyone done that and what are the spoke lengths you used? |
Originally Posted by cudak888
(Post 22081515)
I have never seen a Raleigh Wayfarer. And I now hate you for bringing it up ( ;) ), because I really want one now, just like this. The later Raleigh Humber Blue (which isn't really Humber Blue) on a pre-1973 frame looks fantastic.
EDIT: Funny thing, I'm almost certain this also explains a Raleigh I couldn't figure out in the new Disney Cruella film. It was left parked in the same spot for almost all exterior shots in this location. It's the 1977+ Humber Blue color with a pre-'77 chainguard, no white tail, mattress saddle, the unusual one-piece handlebar as seen on the Wayfairer, and the same wire stays. Not to mention that it also has the bolt-on pump peg clip which seems to be factory-fitted; these didn't have braze-on pump pegs, apparently. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a720ead833.png It obviously wasn't a '77 Sports without the silver seattube panel, but after this discovery, it's undoubtedly a 21" Wayfairer. |
By chance, would anyone have a spare 1" top tube fulcrum clamp that's pre-Tube Industries? Like the one on the left, with the satin chrome finish on the inside and the bottom, but a bright finish on top - not the one on the right which is brightly plated throughout.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3939c47151.jpg -Kurt |
Originally Posted by cudak888
(Post 22081515)
I have never seen a Raleigh Wayfarer. And I now hate you for bringing it up ( ;) ), because I really want one now, just like this. The later Raleigh Humber Blue (which isn't really Humber Blue) on a pre-1973 frame looks fantastic
Also worth noting: There was a BSA version of the Wayfarer with the same colors and lettering. I'm guessing Raleigh "took over" the Wayfarer moniker when they phased out BSA as a brand. And some of the ones I've seen online had a rear dynohub, which might have been an AG. I modified it a bunch over the five years I had it. First things to go were the short handlebars that were fused to the stem and those small block pedals we were complaining about a few pages ago. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...010a8175d4.jpg About a month after I got it, fixed up for riding. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...9617977ee6.jpg A rare sighting of the OP of this here thread. Sixtyfiver helped fix up the bike and also built a new front wheel with generic dynohub. |
Originally Posted by adventurepdx
(Post 22082629)
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...9617977ee6.jpg
A rare sighting of the OP of this here thread. Sixtyfiver helped fix up the bike and also built a new front wheel with generic dynohub. Look! Is it a stock broker...is it a quantity surveyor...is it a church warden? No. It's Bicycle Repairman! Wishing Keith all the best. |
Originally Posted by adventurepdx
(Post 22082629)
A Raleigh Wayfarer was the first British three speed I owned. I bought mine in 2010 and had it for five years. I can't find any US-based info on it, leading me to believe that it was a UK only model. How did some of them end up in the States? My hunch is that during the Bike Boom Raleigh shipped over some because of demand, lack of listing in the US catalog be damned. (Or a few individuals brought their Wayfarers with them when they moved to the US.) The "front brake-right lever" when I got mine gives weight to my hunch.
Also worth noting: There was a BSA version of the Wayfarer with the same colors and lettering. I'm guessing Raleigh "took over" the Wayfarer moniker when they phased out BSA as a brand. And some of the ones I've seen online had a rear dynohub, which might have been an AG. I'm half tempted to get someone to facilitate it. I wouldn't mind another restomodding project on a later 1970's example - and the color is right. Just the same, I probably should hold out for a full-chaincase Humber Blue machine from the '50s. -Kurt |
Resilion Brakes Project On My '52 Claud Butler Tandem
I've been working on the Resilion brakes on my recently acquired '52 Claud Butler Ladyback tandem. I began by removing the rear brakes and soaking them in Evaporust which worked nicely. Then, after much thought, I've decided to reproduce the complete housing/ cable assemblies, rather than cut the existing assembly apart to harvest the hardware and merely take the easy way out and just replace cables and housings. I'm a machinist so. It's a nice lunchtime project. I made drawings of all components and started with the hardest part, the sleeve where both cable ends feed out from the main cable coming from the brake levers. I need front and back. First I made a crimp tool to size the brass as it goes from round to oval where both ferrules fit inside. Then, using the original part, sized the tube from the round dimension, and drilled it so the wall thickness was matched.
Turns out the tube is actually stepped bigger, so the first run of parts didn't size up, but proved the aluminum crimp tool will work. After developing the correct diameter of blank on the second attempt, I used a harder hex brass I had for years... https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...bb78f63b0d.jpg Here's the original crimped fitting next to the correct size blank, but failed crimp, and the underdeveloped size, but good crimp. You can see the part on the left collapsed completely. On the second attempt, i supported the inside with keystock to prevent failure. It still failed. The nice crimps were on undersize formable brass. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3eedc41f16.jpg Heres a shot of how much the wall collapsed with and without internal support. I made bigger stepped parts from harder brass, which I had, but the crimp failed due to material hardness. I've ordered the soft formable brass from Mcmaster-Carr and will be attempting more trickery soon. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3b35215ca6.jpg From left to right; Revised size of barrel (2) This brass was easy to machine from hex stock i had previously. 1st attempt to crimp, but finished size was too small. Crimp tool worked okay. 2nd attempt with max dia from stock using formable brass. Aluminum crimp tool can be seen on the right. |
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Originally Posted by thumpism
(Post 22083043)
$80!!! Loop for cheap!
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...57369854911678 https://scontent.fric1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...11&oe=60D93163 Alas, I have enough projects already, and not enough garage space for them. However, somebody will get a very nice bike out of this! (Also I should mention that the recently purchased Tourist--model 1 roadster is the first I've ridden, and it is a joy to ride! Elegant is the word that comes to mind. And in comparison to my '50's era Sports Tourists (as well as my more modern bikes) it feels as though I'm piloting a '59 Cadllac de Ville--the one with the giant fins and about 30 feet long.) |
A friend shared this video earlier today. Seems to be a single-speed rod-brake Raleigh, but this subforum is likely the best fit:
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Originally Posted by nlerner
(Post 22084179)
A friend shared this video earlier today. Seems to be a single-speed rod-brake Raleigh, but this subforum is likely the best fit:
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