I don't think that's bad at all for a new FW hub. 36h or 40h?

You'll need a proper 4 speed shifter for that fellow. Early 50s Raleighs had a "3 or 4" speed shifter that will work. I believe the shifters labeled as 4 speed are the same and will work also.

Before you build it into a wheel, measure the axle length and see what the OLD will turn out to be and make sure you're happy with the result. There were two axle possibilities 5 3/4" and 6 1/4". The shorter axle will match the spacing on you're Sports which you can measure and probably turns out to be about 110 mm. The longer axle will space out to about 120 mm which is probably ideal for your Harding.

I don't know where to find axles for these guys, maybe on ebay from time to time, maybe from a trashed hub.

Look at the exploded diagram and notice the two piece shift rod/indicator. These are supposed to be fragile and are, so they say, not easy to find and expensive when they turn up.

I think it may include the the axel... I think.
Heres a few more of the pics from the sale. My local LBS also has a bucket full of strumey archer hubs so I may find some things I need there too.
my Hardings rear spacing WAS 120mm it was cold pressed to fit a standard 700c wheel 130mm. I can have it cold pressed back to the 120 (I know its horrible and a terrible thing to do but of it can take it one more time I swear I'll never do it again!) but if this a 110 mm axle itll be a big stretch back. May be too dangerous to risk it...

edit: it's a 36 hole to answer your first queryhttps://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...361fbc588e.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f06cfbe0fd.jpg

The exploded view FW hub I found at SA heritage shows both 5 1/2 and 6 1/4 axles so this could be either. If this is too short to fit this project, it would still be a great hub for a Sports project. A NOS FM hub at a reasonable price is such a good find that I wouldn't be disappointed if it wasn't right for one project since it would be really nice for the next. Tough to find a good deal on a 4 speed trigger though. People seem to ask a lot for them on fleebay. If you want to keep cost down, damaged shifters can be repaired.

Three Spires
 

Three Spires was a Coventry based Bike company absorbed by Raleigh in 1954. So this is a Raleigh built bike from the Nottingham factory. Nice bike. Not always, but usually dulled paint like this will respond nicely to a polishing compound and regain a lot of it's luster although sometimes the oxidation goes to deep for a polish to remove. I'd guess this bike would clean up very well. I'd say it will make a fun and rewarding project.

Nice original bike.
The only drawback is those early Raleigh brake calipers.
The proprietary cables are difficult to find (NOS)
and I don't think anyone has a devised an easy/good looking fix.
A metal wall anchor can be used as a "stop" but is not the cleanest solution.
I generally swap out the calipers for the newer design if I
plan to really ride a bike.
A closer look at your photos shows that there's still plenty of
adjustment available on the cables.

I like that this bike is pre plastic parts. Looks like it still has it's embossed brass plate trigger shifter too. Original white, fluted housing, ball end cables are a rare find, but I've had good luck keeping original old cables. I don't have a pressure oiler, but I hang them on a wire and apply light oil to the ends and let it work it's way down the housing. I like that it has it's original cables. Unless they're broken or frayed, I'd keep em. Even then, I would silver solder a ball end on a new inner cable and keep the original housings if they were too damaged.

I have heard that about spoke nipples. I plan on trying that the next time I need to replace one of these inner cables. Also, 3/32" brass tubing works great for shifter cables. They fit both the trigger and the barrel adjuster perfectly. In fact, they are a much better fit than the factory crimped ended cables. These don't need soldering. I've been using JB Weld and a very light crimp on these for years now with no failures. There's really no need for pinch bolt adapters at the indicator chain if you don't like them.

Probably happened in the garage while being stored. Bumped it with the car or something. Those bars are surprisingly fragile considering the steel construction.

Apologies to all if this subject has been covered. I would really love to take on a rebuild project with a Raleigh 3-speed, preferably a Sport or Superbe, but my limited experience in fitting one of these bikes shows that the 23 inch frame is just too small for me. I am 6' 1" and my knees practically hit the handlebars. I am sure this is a common problem. Does anybody have any advice? I am aware that there is also a 24" frame available on the Tourist model, but I hardly ever see those up for sale.

The ball end can be removed by heating it up with a propane torch. It can then be transferred to a new bit of cable, if the old cable is no longer serviceable. The soldering is the tricky bit- a tin lead antimony solder or similar is my recommendation. The antimony helps the solder work with other materials (like the cable itself) and makes the solderjoint stronger.

In this way I made new cables for my 1935 Roadster, whose cables were beyond redemption.

I'm 6'1" and , going straight, my knees miss the handlebar by a good 3 inches. It's only when I make a sharp U turn that I instinctively move my inside knee out to clear the bar. You could change the stem for a taller or longer necked version. Any 22.2mm stem will fit the fork tube, but Raleighs use 15/16" handlebars, so you would need to shim them to fit the 1" stem clamp you're likely to find on the replacement. I've done this before, not a problem. Depending on how far you move the handlebar, you may have to make up custom length cables. I did that with this bike. It's a 21" frame that I modified with a long Sunlite touring stem to fit me.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...de1cbb67d4.jpg

I haven't seen one of those VBT water bottles in a long time!

Check to see how the saddle clamp is oriented. I'm close to 6ft and find that a 23" sports frame is nearly perfect if the clamp bolt is behind the seat post instead of in front of it. Many sports I have found were clamp in front like my recent '72 shown. Even on my 24" DL1, the clamp is behind. It is okay either way but can give you more room.https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8d047ea225.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...aaa0710776.jpg

I'm 6' (that's what my licence says) and I can ride any of the frame sizes (21'-23") with proper seat/handle bar height adjustments.
The 23" frame is my preferred choice and find them a comfortable ride.
As a result, I'm letting go of a couple of my 21" bikes.
A Superbe and a Hercules.
Time to cull the herd.

Thanks for the suggestions. I will give them a try.

I found this beauty on my Local FB marketplace. I know it's just a sport but the condition is something to behold. Guy wants $125 for it. I rode it around a parking lot for a bit and it feels wonderful. Seat is lose and he said it will need a new one (old rail seat system but I believe I have a replacement that will work). It has some little rust spots here and there but nothing major. He also said the the cotter pin on the left crank is about shot and that it will need a new one next time the BB gets work. Most importantly it's my size at 23". I'm certainly considering it. This condition for a 60s sport seems worth the higher price than what a sport usually calls for...
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...41d864b1c4.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...7cc0089ef0.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c69eebf10c.jpg

How bad is a dent on a hub like this?
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...6e1e78a539.jpg

Some rust here and there but nothing major

$125.00 seems a very reasonable price.

I agree. This is a good bike, priced right. If you keep it in a reasonably dry place and give it a coat of wax once in a while, you can stop any further rusting in it's tracks. Rims look very good. Originally this bike came with a Brooks B72 and Dare grips. Other than those it looks original. I like it.

@Buellster - I'm thinking about one of these in my area - probably the one with the new Brooks grips & new GYES saddle (seat -whatever). It's more pricey. No fenders though. Not sure.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...21eace82f7.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8d0e576c62.jpg

Oh man that's a tough one!
The one tour thinking has some shcwabe titles too!
I do just LOVE the fenders though. My heart would be with the one with the fenders still on it. Then again I'm a sucker for looks as opposed to the one your on which may well be a better bet quality wise haha

My vote is for the bike with fenders. You would have a complete (or nearly complete) bike to begin whatever project suits your taste.

To me, a complete bike is always worth more than an incomplete one in similar condition.

What are the chances the cotter pin and seat post from my 78 Raleigh sport will work with my 60's raliegh sport?
I'm considering using the first for parts on the second. It doesnt need many, but it sure would be convenient if I could use the bike I have for parts.

For the love of English 3 speeds...

My guess is the chances are very good. To the best of my knowledge, Raleigh Sports bikes take 25.4 mm seatposts and all the bottom brackets and bb spindles are interchangeable. The later bikes have two stays on the rear fenders, no white tail, but that's easy to remedy. If you have parts from a 78 to update your 60s bike, take a look at the brakes and levers. Though it would be anachronistic to put the later brakes on the earlier bike, they are better brakes and levers. So, what do you do, enhance the bike as a bike or adhear to period correctness?

edit:

That green bike is pretty decent and not an outrageous price, in my opinion, regardless the butt ugly saddle. That, of course, brings up the problem with Raleigh Sports. It'll take $75 to $100 to get a decent saddle on that sucker. Cheap bikes have a a tendency to not stay cheap for long.

Good to know!
haha I'm not super concerned with the saddle. I've got a decent one to put on it untill I can find a decent replacement.

On the Path Racer, the cost of the seat, grips and tires exceeds the asking price.
I would assume that the cables and pads are new as well.
I bet the seller's got at least $400,00 tied up in it. Bike/Parts/Labour.
The Gyes saddles are well made ( I have one) but take some time to break in.
It's like vintage cars ,it's always better to buy one that somebody else has spent their money on.