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Originally Posted by clubman
(Post 19432996)
Nice touch with the quadrant shifter, really sells the roadster vibe. Is it sub 30 lbs for the win? :thumb:
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Originally Posted by clubman
(Post 19432996)
Nice touch with the quadrant shifter, really sells the roadster vibe. Is it sub 30 lbs for the win? :thumb:
Originally Posted by BigChief
(Post 19433502)
Yes, very sharp. Nicely done. I like the combination of roadster handlebars and a suspension saddle. Very comfy looking.
Here they are right next to each other (well, kinda...haven't yet had the opportunity to have them physically next to each other with the ANT this complete): http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...926_143723.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v8...310_173452.jpg |
With Spring upon us, I pulled out the E3S and after a few miles on the old critter have decided it would be much nicer if I had a longer stem.
Is there a period correct or even not period correct stem that I can purchase off the shelf (interwebs) somewhere to use in my bike, just a simple swap out? This bike is a 21 inch frame, I have two equally nice, bare frames in 23 inch but they have a shorter or equal top tube length to the 21, go figure. So, I prefer my 21, it is stiffer, lighter and rides better. I just need a longer stem, regardless of either frame size. Woe upon me, what can I do? J |
Originally Posted by Loose Chain
(Post 19434162)
With Spring upon us, I pulled out the E3S and after a few miles on the old critter have decided it would be much nicer if I had a longer stem.
Is there a period correct or even not period correct stem that I can purchase off the shelf (interwebs) somewhere to use in my bike, just a simple swap out? This bike is a 21 inch frame, I have two equally nice, bare frames in 23 inch but they have a shorter or equal top tube length to the 21, go figure. So, I prefer my 21, it is stiffer, lighter and rides better. I just need a longer stem, regardless of either frame size. Woe upon me, what can I do? J |
Originally Posted by Loose Chain
(Post 19434162)
Woe upon me, what can I do? J |
Originally Posted by clubman
(Post 19434206)
You could show us a picture and give preferred stem measurements? GB stems always look good.
What would work best for me is something around double that, that I can purchase off the shelf. I do not wish to start another endless project of searching and bidding on Ebait junk. So what I am trying to find is an off the shelf solution to double the stem length and use the existing North Road bars. And preferably it would look appropriate on the bicycle in character. ? |
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Loose Chain
(Post 19434241)
I can later, out for errands now. It is a Plain Jane Raleigh E3S with an approximate 3.5 cm original stem.
What would work best for me is something around double that, that I can purchase off the shelf. I do not wish to start another endless project of searching and bidding on Ebait junk. So what I am trying to find is an off the shelf solution to double the stem length and use the existing North Road bars. And preferably it would look appropriate on the bicycle in character. ? https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Steel.../dp/B000AO9OYE Here is my 21" Sprite with the Sprite stem maxed out. I can get about an inch and a half more than a regular Sports stem. Attachment 555665 |
Like Clubman said, a GB stem would look OK. For total functionality a modern stem would probably be the answer, as long as you didn't care it looked "modern".
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[MENTION=171383]agmetal[/MENTION], that's really nice. Where will you be riding it?
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Originally Posted by noglider
(Post 19434476)
@agmetal, that's really nice. Where will you be riding it?
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Originally Posted by plumberroy
(Post 19393754)
My Raleigh sport with new tires and brooks saddle
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps8op7fu6m.jpg |
Originally Posted by Vintage Raleigh
(Post 19434687)
Nice bike but those tyres will never be whiter!
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Originally Posted by plumberroy
(Post 19434786)
They ain't that white now :D I have ridden it a couple times
I wish I had a photo of the International before the grey plague rim dust iced my gumwalls. |
I have a minor dilemma, wonder what you guys well say.
Several years ago I picked up an unloved Armstrong roadster, loop frame, rod brakes, 28"wheels, mostly complete but no rear wheel. I estimate the date mid 1930's but what do I know. Given the choice between a pair of 28" rims (40/32) or just the rear one, for the same price, I took both. I have now built the rear wheel on a hub dated (194)0, and it is good. The old front rim is a little rusty, all the chrome worn off the braking surface, doesn't match the rear one at all. But it's original. I may have another 32h hub; not sure. I probably have spokes, or could get them easy. So, what should I do, rebuild the front wheel with a shiny new rim to match the rear? Build a whole new front wheel? Or keep the original just because it's original? Don't even ask me why I'm doing this. I didn't want this bike, just feel a responsibility to get it usable again because it's cool and old. |
635 mm rims are now available in alloy. Will take a ton of weight off old steel roadsters.
Good tires are also available in the size. Should be able to get the bike in riding condition. Good luck and keep us updated on your project. |
Oh, I have rims, tires, and tubes. I'm not trying to upgrade or lighten. This is a 1930's rod brake roadster, it's not a good candidate for modernization.
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Originally Posted by rhm
(Post 19435015)
The old front rim is a little rusty, all the chrome worn off the braking surface, doesn't match the rear one at all. But it's original.
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If everything else is original, re use the front wheel. Clean it up as best, spoke it and check for roundness then send it on its way.
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Originally Posted by rhm
(Post 19435015)
So, what should I do, rebuild the front wheel with a shiny new rim to match the rear? Build a whole new front wheel? Or keep the original just because it's original?
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Originally Posted by nlerner
(Post 19435700)
Clearly, you need to find a complete bike with relatively decent 635mm rims, "borrow" the front wheel and put the rest in a corner of your basement for a few years.
Seriously, interesting to note that the existing front rim is marked "Palmer" and the badly deteriorated tire is marked "Palmer [cord] Viking." Both are marked "Made in England". I guess this is the original tire. It has a beefy Bayliss-Wiley hub, just what you'd expect. |
Originally Posted by NormanF
(Post 19435127)
635 mm rims are now available in alloy. Will take a ton of weight off old steel roadsters.
Good tires are also available in the size. Should be able to get the bike in riding condition. Good luck and keep us updated on your project. |
Originally Posted by agmetal
(Post 19436016)
From what I've seen, the aluminum Westwood rims that are out there are only available in 36h drilling
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Originally Posted by BigChief
(Post 19436129)
Yellow Jersey has new 32 and 40H chromed steel Westwoods for $30.
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Here's a 1948 Rudge Sports I just acquired. You can see more photos of it here...
http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...ge-sports.html |
My tax return came in, and I felt like treating myself for passing my third mate's license. Bought this Raleigh Tourist off eBay, and sent it in to be overhauled. It needed it badly, but now it's almost completely brand spanking new. Rides like an absolute dream, and it shifts and pedals so smoothly.
http://i.imgur.com/rPI649J.jpg http://i.imgur.com/ZiE0vVj.jpg http://i.imgur.com/pCbQ6mv.jpg It's apparently a 1975 or 1976 model; the SA hub is dated December 1974. Dunno where to look on a Tourist for the S/N. |
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