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-   -   For the love of English 3 speeds... (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=623699)

clubman 08-07-17 12:20 PM


Originally Posted by 3speedslow (Post 19772820)
My thing is to find a 40 hole AW hub or shell that I can use to build up a 27" wheel for my Rudge 3 speed dropbar rapide. I already have the Dunlop special lightweight rims.

What year?

3speedslow 08-07-17 12:32 PM


Originally Posted by clubman (Post 19774448)
What year?


Early to mid 60's would be the range with 62-63 being closer to the frame Year.

You got something?

clubman 08-07-17 01:13 PM


Originally Posted by 3speedslow (Post 19774490)
Early to mid 60's would be the range with 62-63 being closer to the frame Year.

You got something?

I've got a '59 and a '60 still laced into an EA1 wheel.

You're welcome to the '59 for shipping. Hopefully around $20, can get a quote tomorrow. PM if interested.

mirfi 08-07-17 07:03 PM

Hello All,

I want to replace the cranks on a Raleigh Twenty. Looking for advice, not sure all the questions to ask, so here's a start.

I don't even know if they are common or rare.

1. Is the chainring and crank a single unit? i.e. Can I just get a crank? (right side crank is distorted)
2. Is the hole a standard diameter?
3. Is there a name brand, type, or retailer I should go to?
4. If I take it to the shop, what should I expect to pay?
5. Yes, I've attempted to straighten it. I'm done.

Thank you

treebound 08-07-17 08:35 PM

Based upon some cotter removal threads on the site here and youtube, here is my home-modified cotter removal tool. I had to reposition the drive-side crank a little because the crank arm was rubbing on the chain guard. This press worked well on the freshly installed new cotter. I've got two other 40+ year old Raleigh Sports that I plan to attack hopefully later this year, so I'll find out how well this makeshift press works on long-seated cotters.
https://i.imgur.com/LHtEUc2.jpg
The original part is called a top beam clamp at Menards and Home Depot.

BigChief 08-07-17 10:05 PM


Originally Posted by mirfi (Post 19775520)
Hello All,

I want to replace the cranks on a Raleigh Twenty. Looking for advice, not sure all the questions to ask, so here's a start.

I don't even know if they are common or rare.

1. Is the chainring and crank a single unit? i.e. Can I just get a crank? (right side crank is distorted)
2. Is the hole a standard diameter?
3. Is there a name brand, type, or retailer I should go to?
4. If I take it to the shop, what should I expect to pay?
5. Yes, I've attempted to straighten it. I'm done.

Thank you

If you want to replace the crank, I think your best bet is eBay. They come in 46 and 48T. Pretty sure a good shop could straighten the one you have though. I've done it a few times.
Here's one at a reasonable price.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/vintage-rale...sAAOSwjS9ZiN4W

3speedslow 08-08-17 09:06 AM


Originally Posted by treebound (Post 19775731)
Based upon some cotter removal threads on the site here and youtube, here is my home-modified cotter removal tool. I had to reposition the drive-side crank a little because the crank arm was rubbing on the chain guard. This press worked well on the freshly installed new cotter. I've got two other 40+ year old Raleigh Sports that I plan to attack hopefully later this year, so I'll find out how well this makeshift press works on long-seated cotters.
https://i.imgur.com/LHtEUc2.jpg
The original part is called a top beam clamp at Menards and Home Depot.

Please let us know how this homebuilt does on the settled pins. Interesting effort there!

gster 08-10-17 06:18 AM

Inflation!
 
3 Attachment(s)
Attachment 575627
I saw an old bike catalogue from 1972 last week that had a parts list with pricing.
A Sturmey Archer 3 speed hub was listed at $17.00 (Canadian). Using the inflation calculator, this would work out to $103.00 today. I would assume the hub came as a complete "kit" with the trigger etc as they did in the 50's.


Attachment 575629

Attachment 575630

Looking at pricing for a NEW SA3 speed hub @ $135.00 (CDN) is not out of line.

Velocivixen 08-10-17 07:30 AM

@mirfi - the crank & chainring are all one piece. When you ask size of hole, I presume you mean cotter hole. Here's a link to Bikesmith Designs & their cotter page. It will hopefully help.

Bicycle Crank Cotters

Don't know what the labor charges might be. Make sure the shop is familiar with cotter cranks.

noglider 08-10-17 07:22 PM

Picture assistance for @johnnyspaghetti:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/be...w2428-h1352-rw

thumpism 08-10-17 08:23 PM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 19781550)
Attachment 575627
I saw an old bike catalogue from 1972 last week that had a parts list with pricing.
A Sturmey Archer 3 speed hub was listed at $17.00 (Canadian). Using the inflation calculator, this would work out to $103.00 today. I would assume the hub came as a complete "kit" with the trigger etc as they did in the 50's.

Attachment 575630

Talk about inflation, there's a fairly common 18T cog in the lower photo but what looks like the rare, elusive 22T installed on the hub in the upper photo.

Velognome 08-10-17 08:41 PM

It's an English 3 speed so I will cross post here
http://i.imgur.com/28oc17v.jpg
Hercules Renown
Herc. A Type O Hub & Quadrant shifter

BigChief 08-10-17 08:48 PM


Originally Posted by thumpism (Post 19783728)
Talk about inflation, there's a fairly common 18T cog in the lower photo but what looks like the rare, elusive 22T installed on the hub in the upper photo.

That 50s hub is a fantastic find. I didn't know the hub came complete with a trigger, fulcrum clip and guide wheel.
The box of SA goodies I bought years ago had a couple of unused shifters but no NOS hub. Maybe the mechanic who owned it replaced a couple of hubs but didn't bother to use the shifters that came with it. Always wondered how 2 unused shifters and pulleys came to be in the box of uesd parts.

gster 08-11-17 05:20 AM


Originally Posted by thumpism (Post 19783728)
Talk about inflation, there's a fairly common 18T cog in the lower photo but what looks like the rare, elusive 22T installed on the hub in the upper photo.

Good eye!
It is a 22 cog. I didn't know they were rare.
I bought four of them a couple of months ago (new) at Urbane Cycle here in Toronto.

BigChief 08-11-17 05:40 AM

1 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by Velognome (Post 19783763)
It's an English 3 speed so I will cross post here
http://i.imgur.com/28oc17v.jpg
Hercules Renown
Herc. A Type O Hub & Quadrant shifter

I love this bike. Maybe it's nostalgia for me. Old beat up bikes turned into hot rods were a part of my youth. Speaks to me somehow even more than a perfectly preserved example. Yeah, this one is very high on the cool meter.
"I am the Scorcher, full of zeal,
And just the thing I look like on the wheel."

Attachment 575814

arty dave 08-11-17 07:51 PM

Yeah ditto, it's a looker - those black bars really suit the bike. Cool lug cut-outs too! I love the curves of old drop bars, although personally I find drop bars too hard on my hands and neck. I tried to make a scorcher but even 'dropped' north road bars end up too low for comfort :(

BigChief 08-11-17 09:08 PM

I recreated the scorcher I had as a teenager. This time though, the northroads are upright and it's geared low for my old legs. It's just modified a bit so I can put more mileage in the saddle the way I am now. But it's still a lean and mean stripped down scorcher.

plympton 08-12-17 06:59 AM

Getting things together. Got the bike stand and bike tools for birthday. I've already got lots of chemicals, strippers, oils, grease, acids, various washes. rags, etc. I have a powdercoat guy i've used before. He should have glossy black in stock for frame, fork and fenders. The handle bars will clean up except for the area where the bike was stood up flipped over. I never had anything re-chromed. I'll clean these bars as best I can and then judge keep, re-chrome, or search. The question is hand strip or blast? I see on Amazon a sand blast gun that works out of a 5gal pail of sand. Has anybody tried this method? How effective is that system on a bike frame? Thanks, Richard

thumpism 08-12-17 07:21 AM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 19784143)
Good eye!
It is a 22 cog. I didn't know they were rare.
I bought four of them a couple of months ago (new) at Urbane Cycle here in Toronto.

They were rare when I was looking in the pre-Interweb days. After I got mine I learned that a Shimano Nexus 24T would fit and that won out. Have not seen many 3-speeds that are not overgeared, especially one that I would want to ride.

Velognome 08-12-17 08:57 AM


BigChief I recreated the scorcher I had as a teenager.
Did the same too, it was fun for awhile
http://i.imgur.com/pg1YPdp.jpg

BigChief 08-12-17 09:11 AM


Originally Posted by plympton (Post 19786688)
Getting things together. Got the bike stand and bike tools for birthday. I've already got lots of chemicals, strippers, oils, grease, acids, various washes. rags, etc. I have a powdercoat guy i've used before. He should have glossy black in stock for frame, fork and fenders. The handle bars will clean up except for the area where the bike was stood up flipped over. I never had anything re-chromed. I'll clean these bars as best I can and then judge keep, re-chrome, or search. The question is hand strip or blast? I see on Amazon a sand blast gun that works out of a 5gal pail of sand. Has anybody tried this method? How effective is that system on a bike frame? Thanks, Richard

There are two schools of thought that you may run into here. One holds that even though this is a more utilitarian sort of bike, the restoration should be of the same quality as a high end bike. In that case blasting and powder coating would be unthinkable. The other is: It's a Raleigh. Make it look nice and be happy. From what I understand, there are quality powder coaters and really bad ones. I have no experience here. I've only hand stripped and used enamel paint. Same with blasting. You don't want to end up with a frame that looks like a plastic toy that's been left out in the sun too long. I'll say that if you choose blasting and powder coat, be sure you find someone with a sensitivity toward vintage lugged framed bikes and good skills.

BigChief 08-12-17 10:31 AM


Originally Posted by Velognome (Post 19786935)
Did the same too, it was fun for awhile
http://i.imgur.com/pg1YPdp.jpg

Very, very sharp. Love it! I'll always have a soft spot for scorchers. Nice job on this one.

Velocivixen 08-12-17 10:51 AM

So is a "scorcher" supposed to be just a "racier" 3-speed, as exemplified by different handlebars & perhaps different gearing?
Can a step through bike be a scorcher? Thanks.
@noglider - Sturmey Archer did Not replace my defective 2-speed kickback hub. Instead they sent new internals to Unversal Cycles (where I purchased the hub), and their bike mechanic installed them into the hub shell. I had to rebuild the 20" wheel. So far so good, but I've only ridden about 5 miles on it. I really enjoy the front drum brake & coaster brake is nice for when I'm riding slowly.

thumpism 08-12-17 10:54 AM

I believe the term scorcher is from the dawn of the bicycle age before IG hubs or derailleurs existed and actually referred to the riders and not to the bikes themselves. Scorcher more recently came to describe the looks of the bikes they would have ridden at that time; stripped down, flopped bars, etc.

clubman 08-12-17 11:07 AM

This is my idea of a Scorcher and bike, from 1896, although he is an NY messenger.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qc...=w1024-h720-no

Velocivixen 08-12-17 11:17 AM

Sort of like James Dean.....only in a bike. ;) I get it.
So unlikely that a step through could be a scorcher. If I were alive then, I'd likely be a scorcher. A tomboy, bucking society's norms.

plympton 08-12-17 11:29 AM

When I restored the John Deere I had the frame and pan sand blasted at a cemetery monument shop. Great on steel frames not good on sheet metal. There's much talk about glass bead blasting as easier on the metal. When I restored the 56 outboard I stripped every part by hand, long tedious process, bike frame and fenders would be easier. Both paint jobs where from rattle cans. In both cases the rattle cans were job specific; I mean that the John Deere spray can and the Gale outboard can were designed not to sputter at the end. Rustoleum and Krylon spit as the paint runs out. It wasn't necessarily any skill of mine that helped the paint job look nice. When I first posted on this site I asked about Raleigh paint. I'm still asking, I could pick from anyone of a dozen black paints. What is the correct Raleigh Black?

The stripping doesn't bother me. Part of the process. I would have to research the paint and primers and try to build confidence in my skills as a painter.

clubman 08-12-17 12:59 PM


Originally Posted by plympton (Post 19787289)
I'm still asking, I could pick from anyone of a dozen black paints. What is the correct Raleigh Black?

I'd say there's no way to determine it with any accuracy. Here's the charts though. Of course they are scans of faded paper brochures. Notice there's no colour code for black.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Si...E=w636-h800-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ip...=w1196-h902-no

thumpism 08-12-17 04:32 PM


Originally Posted by Velocivixen (Post 19787273)
Sort of like James Dean.....only in a bike. ;) I get it.
So unlikely that a step through could be a scorcher. If I were alive then, I'd likely be a scorcher. A tomboy, bucking society's norms.

Don't give up! In this anything-goes modern age your scorcher could be anything you want it to be, even a stepthrough. Post a pic when it's done.

Lazyass 08-12-17 04:49 PM

Quick question some of you could answer. I think this is a '73, but none of the 70's catalogs show the specs for this model. Does it have steel or alu rims? Any idea about the total weight?

https://images.craigslist.org/00808_...Y_1200x900.jpg

https://images.craigslist.org/00A0A_...R_1200x900.jpg

https://images.craigslist.org/00H0H_...d_1200x900.jpg

https://images.craigslist.org/00C0C_...p_1200x900.jpg


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