This something I see all the time and it upsets my old fashioned New England sensibilities. Such a waste. The workmanship and materials in that frame are such good quality and the only thing reusable is the clamp. I just sent an old style B66 off to rhm for new leather. I'm collecting parts for that total resto project I had in mind before I got sidetracked with the Rudge. Besides being the more period correct frame for my project, I'm happy to be able to salvage a good part.

So if you all remember I found myself the owner of a supercourse recently. I mainly got it for parts but am holding onto the frame as it was a delightful ride. It desperately needs to be repainted and that wont be happening for a while. Anyway after I stripped it down I noticed the BB is in very good condition.
what are the chances the BB cups would fit my 70 sport? The supercourse is a 71 (I think from the SN).
it has a spindle that works for sqaure taper cranks, I know it would be less original but it would also be significantly easier to acquire new cranks and chainrings.
Thoughts?

I converted my Sears/Steyr from scorcher to semi-scorcher today. It had been neglected for a while, so I flipped the bars, aired the tires, and took it for a spin. It is too small for me, but it works well.

I also found this in my area for $75
I'm wondering what make this is?
looks to have a sturmey trigger shifter, and it says made in england but I dont recognize it. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0b35062476.jpg

Also looks to be a standard crank. So i could perhaps use the chainring on my project(The Harding not the sports) bike.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d005817661.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...22abdc1d8d.jpg

Is that white thing on the handlebar the shifter?

By the mid 60s, Raleigh was making many custom labeled bikes for businesses like department stores, hardware stores...things like that. This is one of them. Normal light roadster frames, but economy fitments. Another chance to say fitments! Not worth much though. Missing mudguards, missing brake. The seat is no loss, the original would have been terrible anyway.

you can't quite see it in these pictures but there is one from the non drive side where you can see it pretty clear.

I didnt figure. I was interested in the cranks and the sturmey gearing equipment. When I saw made in england on the down tube I got curious haha

Pictures?

Well, you missed your chance. All three were purchased by an antique place in Crewe and the prices have skyrocketed; the Executive and the Monark are both priced at $100. And don't forget that "...has a accessory 3 speed shifter added..."

https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/...681255507.html

vintage executive bicycle w/accessory 3 speed - $100 (crewe)

https://images.craigslist.org/00e0e_...HB_600x450.jpg


bicycle type: other
frame size: 36 inches
wheel size: 25 in

nice clean bike. been garage kept. has a accessory 3 speed shifter added. no tears in seat. all graphics are nice and bright. badge has damage from cable. rubbed the middle off.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a06204e4cb.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...44ab6f022e.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...427e67f7bb.jpg
As you wish.

That's a unique trigger.

Yeah, I've never seen one like that before either. Good looking bike. You could use a longer stem and seat post to make it fit. I did that with a 21" frame and it turned out to be a scorchin scorcher.

Two 21" 71 Sports parts bikes for 50 bucks in eastern Mass. Too far away for me, but a ton of goodies here.


https://boston.craigslist.org/sob/bi...681205423.html

Ooh, I'm very tempted on those two as project bikes. Sadly, my project time is about to be very short as summer is just about done, and the reality of an academic year awaits.

I've decided to move along two SA G6 Dyno hubs. PM if interested.

Cooled down enough for a longer ride today. The Rudge isn't as happy on the gravel as the DL-1 and it's geared taller at 48/20 compared to 46/22 on the DL-1. I swapped the threaded driver for a splined one so I could have some gearing options. The 20T cog on there now does leave the overdrive intact, but I did end up walking more hills than I do with the heavier DL-1. The Rudge will be fine in flat country and I wanted the overdrive to keep the bike's original character, just tame it a bit. There's no way around it with an AW. If you gear it down enough to have a comfy hill climbing granny, overdrive turns into "normal" and you give up the overdrive. I have one more project in mind and it will be getting a S5.2 hub I have. I have all the parts I need. Only missing a 50s 23" frameset that's in poor enough condition to repaint.
out on the gravel with the oldtimer. Even the tool kit is finished.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...fde5c5d23f.jpg

That bike checks all the boxes.

Love that chainguard.

I really like the trigger too. I think it beats the S/A design if you like the trigger positioned atop the bars.

Getting ready for the All British Cycle Event.

I expect to bring a 1950 Claud Butler, set up with 650A wheels- alloy AW in the rear, Bayliss Wiley alloy hub up front. Upright riding position, with GB alloy Sport side pull brakes and alloy mudguards. Alloy bars and seatpost, weighs about 24 pounds. Rides pretty well so far, but really lacking on handgrips. Any suggestions?

I'll also be bringing sale or trade items- A '58 BSA rod brake Golden Deluxe, '63 Sports, '41 lightweight Columbia and parts...

Thank you. The design reminds me of my first new bike's chainguard - it was a 1961 Rollfast middle weight.

Oh, c'mon now! Where's the photo? This bike sounds amazing! I wanna see...

For grips, go with the corks from Velo Orange: https://velo-orange.com/collections/...cts/cork-grips

A couple coats of shellac, and Bob's yer uncle! Those are what I have on my Lake Pepin bike, and they were comfy for the entire ride.

Can't wait for this event... see ya there.

.

It's a bit art deco, or naive SF like in the Thunderbirds. It reminds me of a vintage Motobécane I once bought because it was so pretty with it's gorgeous chainguard. It was much too small and much too flimsy for my needs, I knew that immediately but bought it anyway.

*

Question for you 3 speed folks: Lately, I've been tinkering with a '59 Huffy Sportsman that was made by Raleigh. Have to rebuild wheels -- spokes on both, rim on rear. Just realized that neither wheel has the spokes laced -- 3x on front, 4x on rear, but neither has the last cross tucked behind the spoke. Is this a common thing for Raleigh Sports - based bikes? By the way, front hub is not Raleigh single-end ajustment hub, but apparently a Union hub, and the fork ends are sized for a 5/16" axle. So it's a bit more cheaply made than an actual Raleigh, I guess.

That lacing is typical of these bikes. Steel rims give strength to the wheels and probably allowed for faster production. Union hubs are very well made in my experience, good German steel with one piece bodies.

Have any of you ever seen sekai built 3 speeds? It is very unensglish I know but I saw it on my local CL and it peaked my interest. Not in a "I'm gonna go buy that!" Sense but more in a "huh, sekai did 3 speeds?"
anyone ever had one, or know how well they were built?
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...6c1abb1218.jpg

Interesting shifter mechanism. Stem shifter for a 3 speed? Haha
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8ae0f559d4.jpg

No markings on hub seemingly (seller looked too and couldnt find any)
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...39ef2a26b7.jpg

I honestly thought of getting it just for parts but the hub isnt a sa so it wouldnt do me much good i dont think. Is that a 501 decal on the downtube? Probably not... probably just hiten somother

i would pick that up if it were local to me. Right size and nice crank and bars.