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-   -   For the love of English 3 speeds... (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=623699)

BigChief 05-24-19 08:35 PM


Originally Posted by gna (Post 20945372)
I'd try to separate the Sprite from the lot. Hate those pedals, though. The shifters should go, too.

EDIT: That late '60s sport looks good, too. I'm a little surprised by the shift cable routing--that how my wife's Lady's model is routed.

Maybe the shifter cable was re routed that way to clear the wire baskets. Hard to tell in the photo. I don't think Raleigh routed gents models that way until later in the 70s.

gster 05-25-19 06:55 AM

This frame may go back to the curb...https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...5e5bfe1206.jpgThe stem is firmly rusted in place.
It looks like the previous owner actually destroyed/ripped the bar clamp off
trying to free it up.
I'll give it a chance but
I'm not spending too much time on this.
I've never had a frozen stem before...

BigChief 05-25-19 10:37 AM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 20946821)
This frame may go back to the curb...https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...5e5bfe1206.jpgThe stem is firmly rusted in place.
It looks like the previous owner actually destroyed/ripped the bar clamp off
trying to free it up.
I'll give it a chance but
I'm not spending too much time on this.
I've never had a frozen stem before...

Well, it's still a good tall frame. you might be able to saw it off.

gster 05-25-19 10:40 AM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 20947064)
Well, it's still a good tall frame. I'd just saw the stem off since it's wrecked anyway. You might even be able to save the fork someday. It would be easier to fight with it off the frame.

Agreed.

gster 05-25-19 10:59 AM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 20947064)
Well, it's still a good tall frame. you might be able to saw it off.

Had a closer look.
Forks are bent/askew
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8da5ee63cf.jpg
The frame looks off as well.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...414c615664.jpg
Hard to see in the photo.
There's also a dent in the rear stay
I'll just salvage the post and BB and put it back out.

BigChief 05-25-19 01:49 PM

Don't forget the steering races. They look pretty good, at least in the photo.

Ged117 05-25-19 02:18 PM

Do you think this wheel is salvageable?
 
Hi all,

I've kept mostly everything from the '79 donor Sports, a long with the front wheel. Since my '50 Suberbe lost its front wheel somehow along the way, I thought of cleaning up this guy and using it. The hub feels good - probably just needs fresh bearings and grease. However the rust gives me pause. See photos where I've cleaned a bit. Is it worth it? The nipples are in decent shape. I haven't found any soft spots. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...2aa806a30b.jpghttps://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...6ddf86bcee.jpg

BigChief 05-25-19 02:40 PM


Originally Posted by Ged117 (Post 20947272)
Hi all,

I've kept mostly everything from the '79 donor Sports, a long with the front wheel. Since my '50 Suberbe lost its front wheel somehow along the way, I thought of cleaning up this guy and using it. The hub feels good - probably just needs fresh bearings and grease. However the rust gives me pause. See photos where I've cleaned a bit. Is it worth it? The nipples are in decent shape. I haven't found any soft spots. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...2aa806a30b.jpghttps://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...6ddf86bcee.jpg

I would use that wheel until a better one came along. Preferably a 32H. Or someday, swap out both rims for CR-18 alloys. The 590mm CR-18s come in 40H and 32H. I always liked the look of the 40/32 wheels on the old roadsters. Looks balanced to me.

gster 05-25-19 03:46 PM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 20947253)
Don't forget the steering races. They look pretty good, at least in the photo.

Yes, also salvaged.

gster 05-25-19 03:50 PM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 20947295)
I would use that wheel until a better one came along. Preferably a 32H. Or someday, swap out both rims for CR-18 alloys. The 590mm CR-18s come in 40H and 32H. I always liked the look of the 40/32 wheels on the old roadsters. Looks balanced to me.

I agree (again) with BC.
Keep it for now.
Looks like a lot of work to clean the rust but
the wheel could be a place holder until a better
one comes along.

bikerosity57 05-25-19 04:47 PM

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...59412c64cc.jpg

I just today found this ‘46. I have a ‘72, and several DL-1’s. I have always enjoyed the “Sports” for everyday actual riding.

BigChief 05-25-19 05:16 PM


Originally Posted by bikerosity57 (Post 20947419)
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...59412c64cc.jpg

I just today found this ‘46. I have a ‘72, and several DL-1’s. I have always enjoyed the “Sports” for everyday actual riding.

This has a lot going for it. Great find! Original finish, shifter, cloth cable housings, early type one piece shifter cable stop, original black cable clips, rims, stainless spokes, complete chain case, original SA headlamp. (can't see if the tail light is there) original double quill pedals. I wonder f the rubber blocks were changed at some point, hard to say. Outside of a fork thimble and grips this looks to be all there and in good shape. You hit a home run on this one. The shifter looks like it might be bent and rusty (need better pics) but don't give up on it if it is. They can be restored. Great bike.

Ballenxj 05-25-19 06:01 PM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 20947452)
This has a lot going for it. Great find! Original finish, shifter, cloth cable housings, early type one piece shifter cable stop, original black cable clips, rims, stainless spokes, complete chain case, original SA headlamp. (can't see if the tail light is there) original double quill pedals. I wonder f the rubber blocks were changed at some point, hard to say. Outside of a fork thimble and grips this looks to be all there and in good shape. You hit a home run on this one. The shifter looks like it might be bent and rusty (need better pics) but don't give up on it if it is. They can be restored. Great bike.

Looks to be a Dyno Hub up front as well? :thumb:

gster 05-26-19 05:37 AM


Originally Posted by bikerosity57 (Post 20947419)
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...59412c64cc.jpg

I just today found this ‘46. I have a ‘72, and several DL-1’s. I have always enjoyed the “Sports” for everyday actual riding.

Wow. Great find.

clubman 05-26-19 07:33 AM


Originally Posted by bikerosity57 (Post 20947419)
I just today found this ‘46. I have a ‘72, and several DL-1’s. I have always enjoyed the “Sports” for everyday actual riding.

If you only needed one English roadster, that could be it. A Lucas King of the Road (?) bell is icing on the cake.

Ged117 05-26-19 07:53 AM


Originally Posted by clubman (Post 20947965)
If you only needed one English roadster, that could be it. A Lucas King of the Road (?) bell is icing on the cake.

I went and had a gander at Ebay for one of those to provide the finishing touch to my 1950 Superbe Sports. They are not cheap, but do they provide that perfect sound?

clubman 05-26-19 10:19 AM


Originally Posted by Ged117 (Post 20947984)
I went and had a gander at Ebay for one of those to provide the finishing touch to my 1950 Superbe Sports. They are not cheap, but do they provide that perfect sound?

They've got that quintessential loud 'da-ding, da-dong' with one sweep of the thumb. The big 3 inch brass plated model has a big clear ring that sustains, I like it a lot, I think it's called a chalice bell?

The other Lucas bells have a "brring-brring" sound and a different mechanism. More typical of most bells. Still nice.

Oddly, the Chinese Flying Pigeon often came equipped with an exact replica of the 3" chalice bell. Identical to the Lucas in every way, even build quality. I sold an NIB Lucas for $100 years ago but I've still got the Chinese knock-off in the stash. Perhaps it's a Phoenix, not a Pigeon.

gster 05-26-19 03:15 PM


Originally Posted by clubman (Post 20948145)
They've got that quintessential loud 'da-ding, da-dong' with one sweep of the thumb. The big 3 inch brass plated model has a big clear ring that sustains, I like it a lot, I think it's called a chalice bell?

The other Lucas bells have a "brring-brring" sound and a different mechanism. More typical of most bells. Still nice.

Oddly, the Chinese Flying Pigeon often came equipped with an exact replica of the 3" chalice bell. Identical to the Lucas in every way, even build quality. I sold an NIB Lucas for $100 years ago but I've still got the Chinese knock-off in the stash. Perhaps it's a Phoenix, not a Pigeon.

I have an old SOTAM bell that sounds like the Ice Cream Man is coming...
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...2dcfc7fc82.jpg

jamesj 05-26-19 04:19 PM

I’m putting my 1974 Superbe back together and I noticed that the top headset cup pops into place without a headset press. The bottom did need to be pressed into place. It is tight but still rotates a bit. It does look like it was reamed at some point.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...59a5cbef65.jpg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1c0ef0362a.jpg

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d4cfb238b6.jpg

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...6a0685f3cd.jpg

gster 05-26-19 04:49 PM


Originally Posted by jamesj (Post 20948464)
I’m putting my 1974 Superbe back together and I noticed that the top headset cup pops into place without a headset press. The bottom did need to be pressed into place. It is tight but still rotates a bit. It does look like it was reamed at some point.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...59a5cbef65.jpg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1c0ef0362a.jpg

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d4cfb238b6.jpg

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...6a0685f3cd.jpg

I can't see that being a problem.
Once assembled, everything is locked together .

Dan Burkhart 05-26-19 07:33 PM


Originally Posted by jamesj (Post 20948464)
I’m putting my 1974 Superbe back together and I noticed that the top headset cup pops into place without a headset press. The bottom did need to be pressed into place. It is tight but still rotates a bit. It does look like it was reamed at some point.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...59a5cbef65.jpg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1c0ef0362a.jpg

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d4cfb238b6.jpg

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...6a0685f3cd.jpg

If you are concerned about it, a retaining compound such as Loctite 641 would hold it securely.

BigChief 05-26-19 08:45 PM

I wouldn't be concerned about it. The upper race and bearings will hold it square to the fork tube and the ball bearings prevent any torque that would turn it in the frame. No need for a tight press fit in my opinion.

horatio 05-27-19 12:12 PM

Mixed news on the Raleigh Sport. The seat post is NOT stuck (yay!), but the IGH is frozen. I inserted a new indicator pin, but it won't budge. Guess I'll have to consult Sheldon. I may start taking things apart tonight, after it cools down to 90!

gster 05-27-19 05:36 PM

My New Best Friend
Vinegar
I half soaked this spindle overnight in
a cup of vinegar.
It really works to remove
the rust.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...cfd20d39ec.jpg
left side soaked, right side not.

gster 05-27-19 05:50 PM


Originally Posted by horatio (Post 20949590)
Mixed news on the Raleigh Sport. The seat post is NOT stuck (yay!), but the IGH is frozen. I inserted a new indicator pin, but it won't budge. Guess I'll have to consult Sheldon. I may start taking things apart tonight, after it cools down to 90!

If they sit for a long time, water can collect and pool in the bottom causing
problems...
Perhaps filling it with vinegar might work?
I've never tried it.
I normally open the non drive side and
flush out the hub with
-2 kettles of boiling water
followed by a good flush with
varsol/paint thinner.
spinning the cog as you go.
let dry and then
add some oil.
It's like getting your ear flushed.

horatio 05-27-19 06:01 PM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 20949996)
If they sit for a long time, water can collect and pool in the bottom causing
problems...
Perhaps filling it with vinegar might work?
I've never tried it.
I normally open the non drive side and
flush out the hub with
-2 kettles of boiling water
followed by a good flush with
varsol/paint thinner.
spinning the cog as you go.
let dry and then
add some oil.
It's like getting your ear flushed.

There's a YouTube guy who recommends flushing everything with WD40. May give that (or the more environmentally-friendly vinegar) a try, before taking everything apart. The axle threads are very rusty on the drive side, so I imagine the internals look similar. I did find one really good video on hub cleaning. I think I can manage, just need to remember what goes where! Of course, there will be pics.

gster 05-27-19 06:27 PM


Originally Posted by horatio (Post 20950011)
There's a YouTube guy who recommends flushing everything with WD40. May give that (or the more environmentally-friendly vinegar) a try, before taking everything apart. The axle threads are very rusty on the drive side, so I imagine the internals look similar. I did find one really good video on hub cleaning. I think I can manage, just need to remember what goes where! Of course, there will be pics.

Next time I flush a hub
I'm going with the vinegar.
Caution!
Do not mix with bleach.
= Chlorine Gas.

paulb_in_bkln 05-27-19 07:04 PM


Originally Posted by horatio (Post 20949590)
Mixed news on the Raleigh Sport. The seat post is NOT stuck (yay!), but the IGH is frozen. I inserted a new indicator pin, but it won't budge. Guess I'll have to consult Sheldon. I may start taking things apart tonight, after it cools down to 90!

This could be serious but it isn't necessarily. The AW I'm using on my mixte conversion was frozen, too. I sprayed it full of Power Blaster from Home Depot. A little while later a few tugs on the indicator chain and it freed up. I then put real lube in it pending a tear down but it's been working fine.

BigChief 05-27-19 07:36 PM

I have had a couple AW hubs that were rusty inside, but that's rare. Most of the time it's just dried up oil and gunk. Both rusty hubs I rebuilt needed new pawl springs.

Ged117 05-27-19 08:49 PM

I took my AG apart after filling it with wd40 and then some PB blaster and it looked great. There was a lot of old grease from 1950 that was gellied. I think the hub was barely broken in when the bike was put away. I filled it with 20w oil.

The donor 1979 Sports AW is immaculate on the outside, however the inside is dry and crusty. I am going to rebuild it as a test of methods before I rebuild my 1953 FW. They are neat machines. Do you guys know how to attach a new sturmey archer shifter cable to a 1950 shifter? Its a bit of a mystery to me.


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