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-   -   For the love of English 3 speeds... (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=623699)

julius rensch 06-24-19 03:31 PM

Ckassic
 

Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 20994763)
I love this bike. It's got all the goodies. Tall pre 55 frame, duplex fork, window shifter and that wonderful chain ring. Great bike. Good color choice too.

great Humber Classic...Jules

3speedslow 06-24-19 05:55 PM


Originally Posted by Road Fan (Post 20993919)
25.4 is the same diameter as for my 1952 Rudge Aero Special, made of straight gauge tubing by Raleigh Nottingham. So your wall thickness is (28.6-25.4)/2 = 1.6 mm.

25.4 is very common in Sport models, I got a ton of those. This is the first 15 seat pin Ive seen. Surprised me.
Thanks for the math!

paulb_in_bkln 06-25-19 04:57 AM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 20992259)
Good advice on the roofers tool.
My friend, Dan, down the street probably has one.
Despite my appreciation for the Mystery Bike
I can'y really ride it, and I don't want
to swap out the bars for uprights.
it has a metal tab on the rear fork for
a derailleur option that appears unused.

perhaps designed for one of these...
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...7def47a55c.jpg

I'm going to use it as a prop in a movie I'm working on
and hang it on the wall of the main character's apartment.

Derailleurs have come a long way.

paulb_in_bkln 06-25-19 05:07 AM


Originally Posted by markk900 (Post 20994021)
Later her I took out the IGH converted Trek 600 and it was a joy to ride, other than an irritating creak. Turned out to be a not quite fully done up pedal. All is good and that 531 frame and
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8148dbe8e.jpeg
modern 700c wheels really made it fly.

Have you had the Trek since new? Is this its first makeover?

markk900 06-25-19 05:17 AM


Originally Posted by paulb_in_bkln (Post 20995820)
Have you had the Trek since new? Is this its first makeover?

Not since new - I got it some 10 years or more ago - completely stock except the bar tape was changed and the brake hoods had dissolved. Rode it like that for a while but have done various conversions since then - always wanted a 531 3-speed so I made one. But no fear - nothing permanent was changed and all stock parts ready to go back on.

Murray Missile 06-25-19 11:16 AM

Just took possession of the Raleigh...... It doesn't do the picture justice. �� Original tires look good beyond that it's going to need a lot of TLC. RH pedal bent for sure, not sure about crank arm, stuck in high gear, will know more once I get it home and hosed off.

Update:

Got it home but didn't get to do more than give it a cursory look, yard needed mowed and there are severe thunderstorms headed our way so I've been "battening down the hatches". I rode it about 3 blocks at work and hit some pretty good bumps and there were no rattles, it felt very solid. The saddle and bars are at weird angles, the saddle has to go for sure and I'm not lovin' the bars. One of the fork leg decals is toast and it has some pretty nasty scratches on the rear fender and at the top of the seat stays but other than that the paint is actually pretty decent, should shine up very nicely, I'll clean it up and hit it with clear coat. Some rust on the chrome but some white vinegar and aluminum foil will get most of it. RH pedal is definitely bent but I believe the crank arm is straight, the shifter is toast and the brake levers suck. I also need a taller stem with quite a bit more reach and the bars are too narrow for me. There is a "Made in England" decal on top of the top tube and the head badge says Nottingham England at the bottom, would this indicate it actually was built at Nottingham?

BocaJr 06-25-19 07:26 PM

Robin Hood Sports...The good, the bad and the ugly!
 
Just picked up this Robin Hood. The AW hub is dated 61, but there is a serial number on the top of the seat lug and 6 1/2" crank arm (perhaps an early 70's flavor with an older replacement rear wheel???) The frame looks in overall good shape and should clean up nicely, Good. The shifter is dead and the pedal threads are stripped on the drive side crank arm, Bad. Lastly, this custom seatpost binder bolt must go! Ugly. The front tire looks as if it was recently replaced with a Kenda K40. The rear tire is very old, cracked and in need of replacement. Interestingly, the rear tire was a Carlisle brand tire. I didn't know the company made bicycle tires. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ce0c25e55a.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...53bad98c45.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...704551ad53.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c59a17d52d.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...782cddc5cc.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e464bd3a0f.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...edb0d92941.jpg

BigChief 06-25-19 07:41 PM


Originally Posted by Murray Missile (Post 20996486)
Just took possession of the Raleigh...... It doesn't do the picture justice. �� Original tires look good beyond that it's going to need a lot of TLC. RH pedal bent for sure, not sure about crank arm, stuck in high gear, will know more once I get it home and hosed off.

Update:

Got it home but didn't get to do more than give it a cursory look, yard needed mowed and there are severe thunderstorms headed our way so I've been "battening down the hatches". I rode it about 3 blocks at work and hit some pretty good bumps and there were no rattles, it felt very solid. The saddle and bars are at weird angles, the saddle has to go for sure and I'm not lovin' the bars. One of the fork leg decals is toast and it has some pretty nasty scratches on the rear fender and at the top of the seat stays but other than that the paint is actually pretty decent, should shine up very nicely, I'll clean it up and hit it with clear coat. Some rust on the chrome but some white vinegar and aluminum foil will get most of it. RH pedal is definitely bent but I believe the crank arm is straight, the shifter is toast and the brake levers suck. I also need a taller stem with quite a bit more reach and the bars are too narrow for me. There is a "Made in England" decal on top of the top tube and the head badge says Nottingham England at the bottom, would this indicate it actually was built at Nottingham?

Looks like a Nottingham bike to me. It's exactly like the LTD model in the 1977 catalog. Any 22.2mm (7/8") stem will fit the fork tube. The good thing there is that any more modern stem will have a 1" clamp so you will have a larger choice of upright bars to choose from and will be easier to find levers you like. The Raleigh bars are 15/16".
Also, if you don't mind spending a bit, Tektro R559 brakes fit these bikes and work great.

gster 06-25-19 08:19 PM


Originally Posted by BocaJr (Post 20997185)
Just picked up this Robin Hood. The AW hub is dated 61, but there is a serial number on the top of the seat lug and 6 1/2" crank arm (perhaps an early 70's flavor with an older replacement rear wheel???) The frame looks in overall good shape and should clean up nicely, Good. The shifter is dead and the pedal threads are stripped on the drive side crank arm, Bad. Lastly, this custom seatpost binder bolt must go! Ugly. The front tire looks as if it was recently replaced with a Kenda K40. The rear tire is very old, cracked and in need of replacement. Interestingly, the rear tire was a Carlisle brand tire. I didn't know the company made bicycle tires. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ce0c25e55a.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...53bad98c45.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...704551ad53.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c59a17d52d.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...782cddc5cc.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e464bd3a0f.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...edb0d92941.jpg

Looks like a good bike for a fix up.

SirMike1983 06-25-19 08:42 PM

Recently got this 1951 Raleigh Clubman back together and back on the road:

https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JvW5V7EiT...624_191111.jpg

https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4SzSOG-p9...624_191105.jpg

BigChief 06-25-19 08:45 PM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 20997252)
Looks like a good bike for a fix up.

Yes, looks like a good Robin Hood with a few bugs to fix. Even has an alloy Sir Walter kick stand. That's a more premium item that I'm sure that didn't come standard. There's too many late 60s features to date the bike 1961. I'll guess 67-70 A 1961 hub is also a good deal. They tend to be better than the later hubs.

jackbombay 06-25-19 09:10 PM


Originally Posted by SirMike1983 (Post 20997278)
Recently got this 1951 Raleigh Clubman back together and back on the road:

https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JvW5V7EiT...624_191111.jpg

https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4SzSOG-p9...624_191105.jpg

So nice!!!

how does that upper hand position work out?

SirMike1983 06-25-19 09:35 PM

The top position is just OK. Most of the time I use the drops where the rubber grips are, and the lower position is reasonably comfortable (actually a lot more comfortable than I though it would be). But I wanted a second position to just mix it up a bit on longer rides. The tape is just cloth Newbaum's, but it gives enough grip to mix up the positions a little. I'll try it for a season and see how it goes. I've tried using both my hands on the tape and laying my arms out forward on it and using the friction to control the bike. It tracks well so it doesn't take much to keep it straight. It's rock solid at higher speeds and it corners like it's on rails.

But if I find I'm not using the tape enough, I'll remove it next season and just go with the John Bull grips. I still like the North Road bars best of all.

I have a Wright's narrow saddle on there now. I'm going to a sprung Brooks Flyer. The roads here are punishing on that saddle.

Things are a little cramped - there's a fair amount over overlap between the VO toe stops and front fender.

It's very light for a vintage steel framed bike and you really notice that if you're used to the Sports models.

With the right cog, I don't feel overwhelmed by the hills, even though it's just an AW hub. The AW is so simple and basic, but still does the job.

The Panaracer Paselas were a great tire choice, I think.

I love the bike as a change of pace from the Sports and rod brake roadsters, but it's not a substitute for the Sports as a more relaxed, utility-type bike. I think you really have to own both to appreciate how they each do their own thing well.

BigChief 06-26-19 03:50 AM


Originally Posted by SirMike1983 (Post 20997344)
The top position is just OK. Most of the time I use the drops where the rubber grips are, and the lower position is reasonably comfortable (actually a lot more comfortable than I though it would be). But I wanted a second position to just mix it up a bit on longer rides. The tape is just cloth Newbaum's, but it gives enough grip to mix up the positions a little. I'll try it for a season and see how it goes. I've tried using both my hands on the tape and laying my arms out forward on it and using the friction to control the bike. It tracks well so it doesn't take much to keep it straight. It's rock solid at higher speeds and it corners like it's on rails.

But if I find I'm not using the tape enough, I'll remove it next season and just go with the John Bull grips. I still like the North Road bars best of all.

I have a Wright's narrow saddle on there now. I'm going to a sprung Brooks Flyer. The roads here are punishing on that saddle.

Things are a little cramped - there's a fair amount over overlap between the VO toe stops and front fender.

It's very light for a vintage steel framed bike and you really notice that if you're used to the Sports models.

With the right cog, I don't feel overwhelmed by the hills, even though it's just an AW hub. The AW is so simple and basic, but still does the job.

The Panaracer Paselas were a great tire choice, I think.

I love the bike as a change of pace from the Sports and rod brake roadsters, but it's not a substitute for the Sports as a more relaxed, utility-type bike. I think you really have to own both to appreciate how they each do their own thing well.

Wow. That is a magnificent bike. I'd love to know more of the back story. Still hoping to find a club level project myself.

Murray Missile 06-26-19 04:59 AM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 20997204)
Looks like a Nottingham bike to me. It's exactly like the LTD model in the 1977 catalog. Any 22.2mm (7/8") stem will fit the fork tube. The good thing there is that any more modern stem will have a 1" clamp so you will have a larger choice of upright bars to choose from and will be easier to find levers you like. The Raleigh bars are 15/16".
Also, if you don't mind spending a bit, Tektro R559 brakes fit these bikes and work great.

Thanks, looks like a match to the '77 catalog to me as well. I have an old alloy MTB stem on another 23" road bike that would be just about right and looks just vintage enough most people wouldn't notice. I was getting ready to decommision that one anyway. I also have a pretty good selection of DiaCompe brake calipers that would probably work nicely. I have a couple sets of R559's but they're pretty long reach. I'll have to scrounge up better levers, all I have are MTB levers and they'd look way out of proportion to the rest of the bike. Hoping to get the big chunks cleaned off tonight and get a date off the rear hub but I'm 99.99999% sure it's a '77.

thumpism 06-26-19 06:14 AM

Hercules for sale in the area. Probably later than the advertised '50s and overpriced but it looks complete and in okay shape.

https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/...920553860.html

1950's English bicycle - $125 (Ashland VA)

bicycle frame material: steel
bicycle type: road
brake type: disc (mechanical)
condition: fair
electric assist: none
frame size: unknown
handlebar type: cruiser
make / manufacturer: Hercules
serial number: none
suspension: none (rigid)
wheel size: 26 in

A diamond in the rough! Made in Nottingham England. In fair shape. Needs cleaning and adjusting. Sturmey Archer 3-speed gears. Brooks leather saddle. Dunlop tyres. Chain good. Dark green fenders. Price negotiable.

paulb_in_bkln 06-26-19 07:58 AM


Originally Posted by SirMike1983 (Post 20997344)
With the right cog, I don't feel overwhelmed by the hills, even though it's just an AW hub. The AW is so simple and basic, but still does the job.

Yes, although sometimes I wish for a gear between 2 and 3. I just put a Cateye on my mixte AW conversion so I have a better idea now of its performance. (Not to mention my own.) I spin out in 2nd at 18 to 20 mph. It doesn't outweigh the AW's practicality, but the upshift to 3rd from there is a big jump.

paulb_in_bkln 06-26-19 08:06 AM


Originally Posted by SirMike1983 (Post 20997278)
Recently got this 1951 Raleigh Clubman back together and back on the road:

This has the fluted crankset? Would like to see a closeup of that. Apart from the flutes, how is it different than the usual cottered set?

BigChief 06-26-19 12:21 PM


Originally Posted by Murray Missile (Post 20997545)
Thanks, looks like a match to the '77 catalog to me as well. I have an old alloy MTB stem on another 23" road bike that would be just about right and looks just vintage enough most people wouldn't notice. I was getting ready to decommision that one anyway. I also have a pretty good selection of DiaCompe brake calipers that would probably work nicely. I have a couple sets of R559's but they're pretty long reach. I'll have to scrounge up better levers, all I have are MTB levers and they'd look way out of proportion to the rest of the bike. Hoping to get the big chunks cleaned off tonight and get a date off the rear hub but I'm 99.99999% sure it's a '77.

The R559s are a perfect fit. They even have enough clearance for mudguards. I have a pair on my Rudge scorcher, love em.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...df81b3ddab.jpg

Murray Missile 06-26-19 03:30 PM

Those look to be the same length as the sets I have. I also have a set of nice older BMX caliper brakes that might work, I had used them when I swapped 26 inch wheels onto a 27" road bike frame. I also have some Shimano calipers with pretty long reach that might work. Thanks for the picture, that's a big help, I'll have to dig mine out and see which ones will work the best.



Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 20998373)
The R559s are a perfect fit. They even have enough clearance for mudguards. I have a pair on my Rudge scorcher, love em.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...df81b3ddab.jpg


paulb_in_bkln 06-27-19 08:14 AM


Originally Posted by paulb_in_bkln (Post 20997750)
Yes, although sometimes I wish for a gear between 2 and 3. I just put a Cateye on my mixte AW conversion so I have a better idea now of its performance. (Not to mention my own.) I spin out in 2nd at 18 to 20 mph. It doesn't outweigh the AW's practicality, but the upshift to 3rd from there is a big jump.

Better accuracy: 2nd gear tops out at around 15 mph and 3rd is good at 20 mph so that's the gap where a fill-in gear would be useful.

BigChief 06-27-19 09:36 AM


Originally Posted by paulb_in_bkln (Post 20999668)
Better accuracy: 2nd gear tops out at around 15 mph and 3rd is good at 20 mph so that's the gap where a fill-in gear would be useful.

I think your answer is the S5. Especially if it's a more sporty build. The medium range mode works great for a scorcher/club bike plus you get a granny and a super tall top gear in wide range mode. I really like these hubs.

Velocivixen 06-27-19 01:28 PM

Hi All, I’ve got 2 Sturmey Archer front dynamo hubs that I’ve overhauled & they work. Do you think if I posted them for sale in the classified section anyone here would be interested? I think 1 is from the 40’s and one from the ‘50’s.

3speedslow 06-27-19 07:32 PM

@BigChief

Hope your knee is healing well! Bummer to have nice 3 speeds to ride and not being able to.

BigChief 06-28-19 03:32 AM


Originally Posted by 3speedslow (Post 21000861)
@BigChief

Hope your knee is healing well! Bummer to have nice 3 speeds to ride and not being able to.

I do have to keep "adapting" to my aging body, but I'm going to keep riding even if that means shorter and easier rides. This summer marks my 60th year of bicycling. Can't complain. I figure anything after this is gravy.

paulb_in_bkln 06-28-19 06:00 AM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 20999839)
I think your answer is the S5. Especially if it's a more sporty build. The medium range mode works great for a scorcher/club bike plus you get a granny and a super tall top gear in wide range mode. I really like these hubs.

I like the idea. I even know where one might be available. Mine is a small knock on a bike that so far I'm outrageously happy with. I used some vacation time this last week and the bike carried me to the beach every day, a 24 mile round trip. I like the variety between the sit up more straight Rudge with north road bars and the mixte set up motorcycle style.

About the knees, I sympathize. I've had no more than occasional twinges but it's alarming when they happen. It never occurred to me they are such a focus of a person's physical destiny.

SirMike1983 06-28-19 07:25 AM

The 33% jump from Normal/2 to High/3 is a big jump, but I just got used to it. I tend to just sit back a bit and spin in Normal/2 when the terrain falls between the gears.

Crank is below - Williams.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ec1338cae3.jpg

DQRider 06-28-19 07:53 AM


Originally Posted by SirMike1983 (Post 21001357)
The 33% jump from Normal/2 to High/3 is a big jump, but I just got used to it. I tend to just sit back a bit and spin in Normal/2 when the terrain falls between the gears.

This is a topic that comes up a lot at meetings of the Gentlemen Cyclists, and the Lake Pepin 3-Speed Tour in particular.

The theory is that what we call "spinning" was considered undignified, unless you were racing. So the AW was geared to support a nice, slow cadence keeping reasonable speeds. Walking the bike up a hill was perfectly acceptable.

I belong to a small-but-growing group who like the 21 and 22t cogs, turning 3rd (or High) gear into our cruising gear. 2nd is for headwinds, and the robust low gear is for hills. That seems to work best for the `Tour. We are only missing out on the higher speeds going down hill, but everyone knows that that is when a gentleman rests, and lets gravity do the work.

Iron Horse 06-28-19 08:24 AM

Hopefully not too silly a question. My wife stands 4'8" in her stocking'd feet. She wants an older english style 3 speed to ride with me on mine. So far in my searches I have found two. A couple years ago I found a Gazelle Piet Pelle laser. 24 x 1 3/8 tires, single speed. It fits her well, but weighs a figurative ton! Needless to say, she hasn't ridden it much. I also found a 5 speed something or other (I forget the name), but upon getting it, it weighs more than the Gazelle! What I am wanting to know is, are there any others out there that don't weigh 45 pounds empty? All of her bikes have the 24 inch wheels, so I know options are limited, but it's what she would like. She has tried small framed modern bikes, but doesn't like them much. She says they're out of proportion. Ha! Anyhoo, suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!

3speedslow 06-28-19 09:33 AM

Have you both considered the Raleigh Twenty models? They do weigh but can be lightened. Size would be perfect for both


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