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-   -   For the love of English 3 speeds... (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=623699)

noglider 03-10-10 12:05 PM

I've seen shipping rates to NZ. They're enough to make you faint. Good luck with that.

Is the color a sort of bluegreen? I love it. I don't think light colored tires (or light coloured tyres) will make it look too flashy.

I recommend Kool Stop brake pads. They seem to be best for pretty much every application.

Sixty Fiver 03-10-10 12:22 PM

If the wheels are stainless and 26 inch there is a high probability they are Dunlop EA1 wheels which use a specific tyre size of 26 by 1 1 /4... these are not compatible with 650A tyres as found on 26 by 1 3 /8 wheels as they are a different rim size.

Finding good rubber can be a challenge and I would hook up with Bf member "gnome" who is really involved in the NZ vintage bicycle community as he might be a great resource when it comes to finding hard to find parts.

rhm 03-10-10 12:27 PM


Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver (Post 10506840)
If the wheels are stainless and 26 inch there is a high probability they are Dunlop EA1 wheels which use a specific tyre size of 26 by 1 1 /4... these are not compatible with 650A tyres as found on 26 by 1 3 /8 wheels as they are a different rim size.

I don't believe it, but what do I know. At any rate, if they are 26 x 1 1/4, you can use tires made for Schwinn lightweights; the ones now available are admittedly top notch tires, but cheap and perfectly adequate.

gna 03-10-10 01:24 PM

Very nice. Worth every penny it costs to ship home.
Thank you for the pictures.

AL NZ 03-10-10 02:15 PM

which Kool-Stop pads fit the old Raleigh brakes?
They do a Campagnolo replacement pad which I hoped might slide into the existing metal pad holders, or there is the 'Continental' pad.
Who knows?

rhm 03-10-10 02:29 PM


Originally Posted by AL NZ (Post 10507463)
which Kool-Stop pads fit the old Raleigh brakes?
They do a Campagnolo replacement pad which I hoped might slide into the existing metal pad holders, or there is the 'Continental' pad.
Who knows?

The set that has four rubber pads, and no metal, that's what you want. I think it's called Campagnolo or Mafac, but no matter. Slide the old black rubber out and slide the new ones in; it's easy. Be sure not to mount the shoes backwards, or the first time you apply the brakes, those rubber blocks will shoot out and you won't have any brakes!

gna 03-10-10 02:31 PM

1 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by AL NZ (Post 10507463)
which Kool-Stop pads fit the old Raleigh brakes?
They do a Campagnolo replacement pad which I hoped might slide into the existing metal pad holders, or there is the 'Continental' pad.
Who knows?

I'm not sure about the old Raleigh brakes, but I put Continentals on mine. You may be able to spot them on my wife's bike:
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=140999

I'm not a fan of the color, but they work better than the old pads.

Zaphod Beeblebrox 03-10-10 02:34 PM

I've found that the Kool Stop "Supra 2" pads fit both Mafac Racer and Weinmann Centerpull Calipers well....I've got no doubt they'd work on most Sidepulls too.

AL NZ 03-10-10 02:47 PM


Originally Posted by rhm (Post 10507533)
... Be sure not to mount the shoes backwards, or the first time you apply the brakes, those rubber blocks will shoot out and you won't have any brakes!

Yep, worked that one out the hard way when I was 10..

thanks

AL NZ 03-10-10 04:33 PM

Does anyone know the biggest size rear sprocket that will run without scraping in a full Raleigh chaincase?

jamesj 03-10-10 04:57 PM

im thinking about picking up a 1967 raleigh sprite this weekend. Guy wants 100 for it but he told me he cant sell the seat which im ok with as it is a big ugly one. Maybe he will come down some.

i like it but i have to work something out with the wife, and m patio is filling up pretty fast with bikes.
I still have the 72 sport i need to start working on.

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...ensor/pic1.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...ensor/pic2.jpg

Coreyk 03-10-10 05:01 PM

ALNZ, I find that bike very drool-worthy. Good on you! Ride it in good heath.


Does anyone know the biggest size rear sprocket that will run without scraping in a full Raleigh chaincase?
Not sure; I think a 22 tooth, but don't take it as gospel.

CK

Andrew F 03-10-10 09:32 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Such a great thread and timley too. Love to see all the new 3 speeds. I just finished my winter project. I found a very sweet '64 vintage Raleigh DL-22, removed the chaincase and mudguards, flipped the North Road bars and added a set of antique wood hand grips, a '64 Dnyohub, a 50's vintage Sturmey Archer Lamp, and sprung for a new Brooks Flyer. Took advantage of the prelude to sping weather we had today and went for a ride......I'm in love.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=141038http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=141039

I would still like to add some rat-traps with leathered toe clips but for now I'm happy to be on the road after such a long winter!

buck mulligan 03-11-10 02:14 AM


Originally Posted by Andrew F (Post 10509326)
I found a very sweet '64 vintage Raleigh DL-22, removed the chaincase and mudguards, flipped the North Road bars and added a set of antique wood hand grips, a '64 Dnyohub, a 50's vintage Sturmey Archer Lamp, and sprung for a new Brooks Flyer.

Very nice - classy; a real black tie bike. The headlamp is a very nice touch.

kingfish254 03-11-10 02:18 AM


Originally Posted by Andrew F (Post 10509326)
Such a great thread and timley too. Love to see all the new 3 speeds. I just finished my winter project. I found a very sweet '64 vintage Raleigh DL-22, removed the chaincase and mudguards, flipped the North Road bars and added a set of antique wood hand grips, a '64 Dnyohub, a 50's vintage Sturmey Archer Lamp, and sprung for a new Brooks Flyer. Took advantage of the prelude to sping weather we had today and went for a ride......I'm in love.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=141038http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=141039

I would still like to add some rat-traps with leathered toe clips but for now I'm happy to be on the road after such a long winter!

Now that is pure sex on wheels!!!!!

mkeller234 03-11-10 03:05 AM

Here is one I cleaned up recently. It's a 1970 Raleigh Sports that was built in Malaysia. The AW hub does not have a date code and the trigger shifter is blank. I guess the Malaysian built version did not have a lamp bracket originally.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2701/...5c8f9506_o.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4065/...ca7d6913_o.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4039/...3d4d64c4_o.jpg

wahoonc 03-11-10 03:50 AM


Originally Posted by mkeller234 (Post 10510130)
Here is one I cleaned up recently. It's a 1970 Raleigh Sports that was built in Malaysia. The AW hub does not have a date code and the trigger shifter is blank. I guess the Malaysian built version did not have a lamp bracket originally.

Did not come with pump pegs either... I have one of those too, not in nearly as nice a shape. The trigger originally had a plastic cover on it with the logo but they have a tendency to get broken and disappear.

Aaron :)

http://inlinethumb41.webshots.com/38...600x600Q85.jpg

mkeller234 03-11-10 04:09 AM


Originally Posted by wahoonc (Post 10510164)
Did not come with pump pegs either... I have one of those too, not in nearly as nice a shape. The trigger originally had a plastic cover on it with the logo but they have a tendency to get broken and disappear.

Aaron :)

http://inlinethumb41.webshots.com/38...600x600Q85.jpg

I see that yours does not have the typical Raleigh fork crown. I have one of the plastic shifter covers, it's black with a sticker stuck to it. It is from my wife's late 80's Schwinn Collegiate.

Here is a before picture of my Sports:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2773/...f89ca439_o.jpg

wahoonc 03-11-10 04:54 AM


Originally Posted by mkeller234 (Post 10510181)
I see that yours does not have the typical Raleigh fork crown. I have one of the plastic shifter covers, it's black with a sticker stuck to it. It is from my wife's late 80's Schwinn Collegiate.

The fork is a replacement...my brother was hammering along one night, stood up in 3rd gear, frame flexed, went neutral and he hit a parked car. Bike got a new fork and crank arm and he got 14 stitches.:innocent: The original shifter for that bike had a clear plastic cover on it with the SA logo and the gear locations printed on it. (can't find a picture of it at the moment) standard fare for that era of bike. IIRC the black plastic came out in the very late 70's or early 80's. Doesn't really matter as long as it works. ;)

FWIW that bike has been in my possession since 1982 and has had the living daylights ridden out of it. It has somewhere around 15,000 documentable miles on it, and probably that many more undocumented.

When I get the time it is going to get a complete overhaul and clean up, a set of baskets and a generator light set and go to my parents house as my in town bike versus riding down there or having to haul a bike with me every time I go to town.

Aaron:)

wahoonc 03-11-10 05:01 AM


Originally Posted by jamesj (Post 10508269)
im thinking about picking up a 1967 raleigh sprite this weekend. Guy wants 100 for it but he told me he cant sell the seat which im ok with as it is a big ugly one. Maybe he will come down some.

i like it but i have to work something out with the wife, and m patio is filling up pretty fast with bikes.
I still have the 72 sport i need to start working on.


That is a gel saddle cover on there, from the looks of that picture from the rear it has a Brooks Leather saddle on it!

Aaron:)

rhm 03-11-10 06:54 AM


Originally Posted by AL NZ (Post 10508177)
Does anyone know the biggest size rear sprocket that will run without scraping in a full Raleigh chaincase?


I do not, but I'm pretty sure you won't need the biggest one available. Your FG hub is basically an FW with dynohub. I have an FW on my 1950 Norman Rapide, so I know that gearing pretty well. When I got the bike one of the first modifications I made was to switch the sprocket to a 22, but one ride told me that was too big; with a 22 I could get up most hills in L, and rarely needed B at all. I switched it to a 20, I think, and found that to be about right, though I may switch to a 19 one of these days. Now, your bike is definitely heavier than mine, but your wheels are also smaller. So though you may well want a bigger sprocket than I'm using, I don't think you'll need a 22. I'm guessing a 20 will suit you fine. Get two or three of the cheapest ones you can find --you can get them for $2 or $3-- and experiment.

rhm 03-11-10 07:11 AM


Originally Posted by gna (Post 10507542)
I'm not sure about the old Raleigh brakes, but I put Continentals on mine. You may be able to spot them on my wife's bike:
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=140999

I'm not a fan of the color, but they work better than the old pads.

I guess it depends on the bike. Here's my Norman three-speed!http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3318/...033e7666_b.jpg

The pads you want are part number KS-CRSA.http://www.koolstop.com/brakes/campy1.jpg
I've never seen them in a shop, but there's an ebay seller that has them with free shipping.

The old Raleigh and GB brakes have an L-shaped brace attached to the brake shoe that supports the caliper against the fork when you apply the brakes, and it's important to keep this; without it the brakes will have a tendency to flex and shudder, and so won't work very well. I don't know if you can use it if you change the shoes; so I definitely wouldn't. Just change the rubber.

mickey85 03-11-10 07:22 AM


Originally Posted by rhm (Post 10510433)
I guess it depends on the bike. Here's my Norman three-speed!http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3318/...033e7666_b.jpg

The pads you want are part number KS-CRSA.http://www.koolstop.com/brakes/campy1.jpg
I've never seen them in a shop, but there's an ebay seller that has them with free shipping.

The old Raleigh and GB brakes have an L-shaped brace attached to the brake shoe that supports the caliper against the fork when you apply the brakes, and it's important to keep this; without it the brakes will have a tendency to flex and shudder, and so won't work very well. I don't know if you can use it if you change the shoes; so I definitely wouldn't. Just change the rubber.

If you happen to be missing those L braces, you can also look on basically any crappy Xmart bike that has caliper brakes. You could probably pick one up on Craigslist for $10.

waverley610 03-11-10 08:38 AM

3 Attachment(s)
Hello. I'd like to share a couple of images of my latest acquisition; very new to the vintage bike scene but had so much fun recalling a 1930's BSA last year that I just had to do it all again this time with a 1936 Rudge Whitworth that has a '39 AW hub.
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=141070http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=141072http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=141071

http://www.flickr.com/photos/8728562...7623572509816/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8728562...7623572509816/

clubman 03-11-10 08:41 AM


Originally Posted by rhm (Post 10510433)
I guess it depends on the bike. Here's my Norman three-speed

The old Raleigh and GB brakes have an L-shaped brace attached to the brake shoe that supports the caliper against the fork when you apply the brakes, and it's important to keep this; without it the brakes will have a tendency to flex and shudder, and so won't work very well. I don't know if you can use it if you change the shoes; so I definitely wouldn't. Just change the rubber.

Just the rear pads have the brace. The forces are opposite on the front.

rhm 03-11-10 08:44 AM


Originally Posted by clubman (Post 10510691)
Just the rear pads have the brace. The forces are opposite on the front.

Right. I suspect my head is on backwards today.

mkeller234 03-11-10 08:44 AM


Originally Posted by waverley610 (Post 10510681)
Hello. I'd like to share a couple of images of my latest acquisition; very new to the vintage bike scene but had so much fun recalling a 1930's BSA last year that I just had to do it all again this time with a 1936 Rudge Whitworth that has a '39 AW hub.
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=141070http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=141072http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=141071

http://www.flickr.com/photos/8728562...7623572509816/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8728562...7623572509816/

Very cool bike.

mkeller234 03-11-10 08:45 AM


Originally Posted by clubman (Post 10510691)
Just the rear pads have the brace. The forces are opposite on the front.

Yeah, and those front calipers really move when you hit the brakes.

David Newton 03-11-10 08:56 AM

Nice Rudge.
Nice to have the original catalog, makes yours look complete without a chain gard.
How does it ride?

wahoonc 03-11-10 08:59 AM


Originally Posted by mkeller234 (Post 10510710)
Yeah, and those front calipers really move when you hit the brakes.

You ought to see the exxxxtra long reach ones they use on the Raleigh Twentys:eek: When those Kool Stops grab I almost expect to see the calipers out in front of the fender.:lol:

BTW AFAIK the replacement pads will fit the housings with the L-stops on them, I recall having replaced the blocks on ones like that before.

Aaron:)


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