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-   -   For the love of English 3 speeds... (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=623699)

clubman 08-06-18 06:30 AM


Originally Posted by nlerner (Post 20490389)
Nice job, BigChief!

+1 or 2! Black is best.

gster 08-06-18 06:44 AM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 20490365)
I don't have the LED bulbs yet, but I'm calling it finished. There's good continuity through the whole system now. It should work...hmmmm. This headlamp never worked from day one. The ring tab coming from the center contact for the bulb was never stripped and connected to the tab. The tab was just crimped onto the insulation.I replaced the wire and reused the brass tab. The back of the front mudguard was a mess. Crunched and rusted away. Odd because there was no other bad rust damage on the bike. It is the original though. I trimmed off about 3/4" and reinforced the lower 3 inches of thinned out steel with JB Weld and painted the underside. Also did some touch up on the primary surface and did my best to blend it in. I replaced the threaded driver and 18T cog with a splined straight leg driver and 20T cog. New chain. All new bearings. I repaired the original cloth cable housings and repaired the bent 3 or 4 speed trigger shifter. The handlebar grips are old and English, but not original to the bike. I used a 70s ESGE Raleigh marked kickstand. I painted a regular Sunlite pump black. A pair of older Dunlop Sport tires are still on the bike for now. They seem to be in reasonable shape. So, here's the official all done photos.
1951 Rudge Sports
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3efc1b1436.jpg

Classic

Buellster 08-06-18 07:22 AM

The rudge looks beautiful bigchief!

gster 08-06-18 07:32 AM

Robin Hood!
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...26c538cbe4.jpg

My friend Mark K. was over the other day and took the Robin Hood for a quick spin.

He pointed out that the left crank seemed off and on close inspection, it does seem to have a slight inward curve to it.

Time for the Johnson bar!

Buellster 08-06-18 07:36 AM

In search of a beautiful chainring
 
I love the look of the old front chainrings with the cottered cranks. I had hoped to put one onto my conversion project but that is seeming unlikely. Are thier any options for newer cogs that have that vintage look but dont break the bank? Or are there any years I can look for on some bikes that moved away from cottered cranks but still had the detail on the cog design?
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...6d7ff20563.jpg

Example: Its just a basic front cog on a Raleigh sport, bur compared to the new front cogs it feels like art.

gster 08-06-18 07:41 AM

Saddle Bags!
I'm taking advantage of some free time to fix a lot of things around the house, bicycles included.
The stitching on the bottom of these old saddle bags had come apart so they've been fixed.
A trick from a former student.
Instead of thread I used dental floss.
We'll see if it holds up.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...20f65fb3e0.jpg
Maybe I should go out and deliver the mail or some newspapers.

gster 08-06-18 07:50 AM

OT
The garage where most of the bikes are stored (as well as a couple of vintage cars) took a major hit in the spring from
a fallen limb. Thankfully, the damage was minimal. Bikes and cars were all OK.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...76db0c3e51.jpg
It's pretty much back in shape with a bit more work to complete this week.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...5d5cfbd9df.jpg

Ballenxj 08-06-18 08:11 AM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 20490862)
Saddle Bags!
I'm taking advantage of some free time to fix a lot of things around the house, bicycles included.
The stitching on the bottom of these old saddle bags had come apart so they've been fixed.
A trick from a former student.
Instead of thread I used dental floss.
We'll see if it holds up.

I have heard about using dental floss before, and that makes me wonder how well monofilament fishing line might work? Nice bike postedl. :thumb:
Saddle bags on a three speed classic is, well, classic. ;)
Glad to hear none of your classics inside that tree struck building were hurt.

gster 08-06-18 08:47 AM

Cranky Cranks
Something is completely f**ked with the left crank on the Robin Hood.
The pedal simply WON'T come off, which leads me to believe it's been cross threaded on.
This is the first pedal ever, that wouldn't break free.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...5f8beccb8d.jpg
In any case, I've replaced that crank with a spare (square cut as opposed to rounded) and it
seems to help.
The bike still seems to be a wanderer but then again, so was Robin Hood.
A nice fresh pair of MKS pedals to finish.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4503d350a3.jpg

gster 08-06-18 08:47 AM


Originally Posted by Ballenxj (Post 20490920)
I have heard about using dental floss before, and that makes me wonder how well monofilament fishing line might work? Nice bike postedl. :thumb:
Saddle bags on a three speed classic is, well, classic. ;)
Glad to hear none of your classics inside that tree struck building were hurt.

Thanks.
Mono could be a good choice as well.

RobbieAG 08-06-18 08:58 AM


Originally Posted by mtb_addict (Post 20488042)
has any using those expensive Schwalbe Marathon tires?
i need something that is more resistence to puncture then Kenda.

I put Schwalbe Marathons on my Raleigh Twenty after getting a flat with Kendas. No flats since! I'm very pleased with them.

RobbieAG 08-06-18 09:06 AM


Originally Posted by mtb_addict (Post 20491018)
Does the Marathon make the ride harsher?

I haven't noticed the ride being harsher with the Marathons vs the Kendas.

JaccoW 08-06-18 09:09 AM


Originally Posted by Buellster (Post 20490854)
I love the look of the old front chainrings with the cottered cranks. I had hoped to put one onto my conversion project but that is seeming unlikely. Are thier any options for newer cogs that have that vintage look but dont break the bank? Or are there any years I can look for on some bikes that moved away from cottered cranks but still had the detail on the cog.

UK or French eBay is my advice. I've seen plenty of Raleigh cranks in excellent condition on the eBay.co.uk

Your main cost will be shipping.

Buellster 08-06-18 09:35 AM


Originally Posted by JaccoW (Post 20491042)
UK or French eBay is my advice. I've seen plenty of Raleigh cranks in excellent condition on the eBay.co.uk

Your main cost will be shipping.

I saw some but many seem to be the old cottered cranks and I dont believe that I can mount a cog for cottered crank on a newer style square taper.

Buellster 08-06-18 09:47 AM


Originally Posted by nlerner (Post 20485614)
A 1/8Ē chain will work fine on a chainring designed for a 3/32 chain. You just canít go in the other direction (i.e., canít run a 3/32Ē chain on a Raleigh Heron crankset).


Originally Posted by gster (Post 20485606)
If your plan is to convert this bike to a 3 speed then I would build your wheel as planned, leave the BB and crank as is
and then swap out the rear cog on the hub to suit your riding style. Standard factory cog was a 18T but new cogs are inexpensive and you
can move up to a 22T. I prefer a 20T.
Only problem could be chain size, as a 10 speed chain is different than a 3 speed.
I'm pretty sure you can get a rear cog compatible with the existing ring.
I wouldn't start any work until you have a compatible rear cog.
Even then you'll have to pack out the hub for a good fit...
Or, wait for a taller Raleigh.

Okay so I'm a little lost with this. You guys are only referring to rear cogs right? How many teeth does my front chainring need to have?
Id that as important?
2 Dumb questions
This current set up in the pic has a 2x biopace on the front. I'm assuming that the biopace oval shape is completley incompatible with a three speed?
I am also assuming you cant use anything but a 1x crank, and that you cannot use a front derailur and change your front gears with a internally geared rear? (I feel like I know the answer to both of these but asking and knowing seems better than thinking so).

markk900 08-06-18 10:40 AM

The simplest way to look at it is that if the chain tension varies (biopace or changeable cogs front or rear) you need something to handle the varying chain slack. You can in fact use a rear derailleur (locked into a single position if needed) to do that.

oldveloman 08-06-18 11:39 AM

Added another Raleigh icon to the stable today... :)
It' s a 1976 3-speed Twenty in need of a thorough clean-up, but it is mechanically sound.

Peter

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c210d0e7c2.jpg

Buellster 08-06-18 11:46 AM


Originally Posted by markk900 (Post 20491217)
The simplest way to look at it is that if the chain tension varies (biopace or changeable cogs front or rear) you need something to handle the varying chain slack. You can in fact use a rear derailleur (locked into a single position if needed) to do that.

That sounds like a viable solution. Does that mean one could feasibly have a 2x front gear with a rear internal hub? I dont think I'll go that route but is interesting to know.

Buellster 08-06-18 11:54 AM


Originally Posted by oldveloman (Post 20491362)
Added another Raleigh icon to the stable today... :)
It' s a 1976 3-speed Twenty in need of a thorough clean-up, but it is mechanically sound.

Peter

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c210d0e7c2.jpg

I think I saw this guy up in my area! Whereabouts did you pick it up?

markk900 08-06-18 12:06 PM


Originally Posted by Buellster (Post 20491379)
That sounds like a viable solution. Does that mean one could feasibly have a 2x front gear with a rear internal hub? I dont think I'll go that route but is interesting to know.

yes you can, and if you search a bit on the forum you will also find folks that have done 3 and 4 speed clusters plus the 3 speed to give 12 gears (and with a front changer 24 or even gasp 36 gears). Personally think that is overkill in terms of gears and complexity but it can and has been done many times.

your thought is the simplest (2 sprockets up front and a single at the back with the 3 speed hub) and itís easy to lock in the derailleur by using the limit screws to keep it aligned with the rear sprocket.

Buellster 08-06-18 12:46 PM

Wow! I had never even considered that. The bike I'm converting has a claw on derailur mount that causes my tire to slip under tension so I'll probably stick with a single on front and skip the rear derailur but this is giving me some crazy ideas for the future! Haha

Buellster 08-06-18 12:54 PM

I know its not a 3 speed but i thought you all may appriciate it nonetheless. I picked up this in original box 1964 4 speed AW hub. I think im going to use this in my new wheel build and fix up the Raleigh Sport for resale. I have not seen many 4 speed hubs around so I was really excited to find this!.


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f85b28bab5.jpg

Salubrious 08-06-18 12:55 PM

Nice find- the FW is the one to get.

BigChief 08-06-18 01:02 PM

+1. FW is a very good hub. Great find.

Buellster 08-06-18 01:19 PM

Thanks!
I played 69.99, one penny more than the asking price. I think it was a little pricey but I see so few and it's in the original box!

markk900 08-06-18 01:23 PM

Nice score... I last bought an almost new AW for $30CAD.... would love to try an FW

oldveloman 08-06-18 04:24 PM


Originally Posted by Buellster (Post 20491406)
I think I saw this guy up in my area! Whereabouts did you pick it up?

Don' t think so. I bought this one 500 metres from my home in Belgium :)

Peter

Buellster 08-06-18 04:58 PM


Originally Posted by oldveloman (Post 20491967)
Don' t think so. I bought this one 500 metres from my home in Belgium :)

Peter

Haha
yup, I'm a little ways away from Belgium

BigChief 08-06-18 05:01 PM

Now I can say that I recommend the Nicelite LED bulbs. They are brighter than I thought they would be. No question these would raise your visibility in traffic. The red tail light especially. I like em.

Ballenxj 08-06-18 05:57 PM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 20492010)
Now I can say that I recommend the Nicelite LED bulbs. They are brighter than I thought they would be. No question these would raise your visibility in traffic. The red tail light especially. I like em.

:thumb: :thumb: :thumb:


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